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Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion

788K views 3K replies 413 participants last post by  rbd2 
#1 ·
Purpose: The objective of this thread is to get basic inspiration, ideas, and just plain help on shaving the engine bay. If you have performed any shaving job, big or small, and have interest in showing DIY/How to's to help the community, please feel free to post.
Rules: I would like to keep this thread open, helpful and useful. Questions on How to do a certain job can be posted along with solutions. KEEP IT clean

Some Inspirations


Some Basic Ideas
-Relocation of Fluid Bottles
-Wires/Harness
-fuse Box's
-Battery Relocation
-Shaved wipers/ wiper Motors
-etc, etc...
Shaved Pictures
Shaved 1
Shaved 2
Shaved 3

Battery Stuff
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
Battery Choices
Vacuum Reservoir
Vacuum Reservoir Relocation 1
Vaccume reservoir Relocation 2
Vaccume reservoir Relocation 3
DV Relocation Kit
SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP
Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP
Polishing
Polishing tips by The ministah1

Elvir



Modified by Elvir at 9:17 AM 10-11-2007
 
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#1,157 · (Edited)
hopefully someone can help me here, i tried to make a MS paint diagram of the hose I am talking about :laugh:



what do I do with this? The hose from bottom of coolant ball runs down to the engine block area (i think it connects into it) and runs into a hard pipe that runs up and along the engine and then goes to the heatercore inside the cabin... do I just remove that first "soft" hose and cap off at where it connects to the hard pipe? im so confused


and the second thing is that off that hard pipe a soft coolant line runs to the oil filter housing? is this normal?

If I cap off the line coming from bottom of coolant ball will it affect the coolant system where it runs into the oil filter housing and also the heatercore inside the cabin?


 
#1,158 · (Edited)
You need that soft line that is connected to the coolant ball. It also runs coolant to (or from) the turbo.

To get rid if the ball you just put a straight connector between the two hoses. There's a DIY on it somewhere.

Edit: it may not run to the turbo. May just run to the back of the head. I forget now.
 
#1,162 ·
wordddd... i know I asked the question in my thread but I was getting mixed answers and figured i'd post an actual picture in here of what I mean. Thanks my dude! i'll look around for a large enough cap to cover it. :beer:



sorry I didn't quote everyone else who answered, this answered my question.... He remembered I was BT and only oil cooled turbo not coolant too.
 
#1,161 ·
Generally this is right. I would suggest finding a metal straight peice if you could though, I had a plastic one break on me a few years back and dumped a lot of coolant while driving.

Mr.tan I believe has a 50 trim if I remember right which doesn't use coolant to cool. His turbo should only have the oil feed and return line so he could block off the port on the coolant hard pipe wrapping around the block since it probably was only use for the coolant ball. I could be wrong though.
 
#1,167 ·
i know I should probably just dive into this and figure it out...but what did everyone do with this cluster of wires coming out? It goes into the one bunch of wires that go down the waterfal.

I was thinking to just unwind the tape from the wires and see where ti is and then cutting it, but i wasent sure how to extend it to meet back up if I should cut a hole in the raintray and feed it up through and then reconnect it up to the main wires from the waterfall.


 
#1,180 ·
i know I should probably just dive into this and figure it out...but what did everyone do with this cluster of wires coming out? It goes into the one bunch of wires that go down the waterfal.

I was thinking to just unwind the tape from the wires and see where ti is and then cutting it, but i wasent sure how to extend it to meet back up if I should cut a hole in the raintray and feed it up through and then reconnect it up to the main wires from the waterfall.


dont cut it there.. what you want to do is find on the inside under the dash where that exits into the bay. disconnect everything in the bay so that you can feed that harness inside the car. then you can run it straight into the rain tray from inside if needed
 
#1,168 ·
Being that i have done this at least 5 times. Here are my reccomendations.

Take the Complete ENGINE harness out. ALL of it. Doing this will save you headache of doing it the way you are planning.

I have done my harness multiple times and every time i did it half assed in a sense that i did a section at time and ended up having to redo it all. When you take everything out, you have an idea what it all looks like and you can plan accordingly where you want it to go. trust me best option


Elvir
 
#1,169 ·
Being that i have done this at least 5 times. Here are my reccomendations.

Take the Complete ENGINE harness out. ALL of it. Doing this will save you headache of doing it the way you are planning.


Elvir
QFT...it really is the best way...makes the routing for future projects and engine removal/install much easier as well:beer:
 
#1,170 ·
Take hood off, take rain tray off, take everything out of rain tray. take ecu and both harnesses connected to the ecu completely out so your left with that one harness. Then unwrap alllll of the tape and lay everything out

EDIT: 1 harness at a time!
 
#1,172 ·
Okay quick question, if anyone has an opinion or answer chime in please :thumbup::thumbup:

NOTE: I understand its only one wire but I already cut it out. I can rewire it in but would prefer not to if only purpose is for GEN lamp

On the alternator coming off the voltage regulator there a plug that runs adjacent with the alternator feed wire into the fuse block. (Its on the same harness as the one plug for the AC compressor. Anyways, I unplugged that from my buddys vr6 and my cousins while the car was running and it didnt throw any battery lamp lights on the dash. So I 'figured' that it wasnt totally necessary. I assumed it was just for the GEN lamp on the instrument cluster.

Now looking more into the subject, I realized what it was plugged into was the voltage regulator on the alternator. Now does anyone know if the voltage regulator strictly works on its own on the alternator and that those wires that plug in are just for the GEN lamp? I referred to the wiring diagrams and in my opinion it serves solely the purpose to illuminate the lamp when the regulator isnt reading 11+ volts (estimate).

I just want to make sure that, that plug doesnt serve as a control unit for the regulator.

Heres the diagrams from bently manual:
Blue wire comes off GENerator then rolls into (next diagram)

Into the ECM (instrument cluster) (k2) GEN warning light--


It appears to just stop at the lamp giving me the feeling that it strictly is just for the GEN Lamp and serves no voltage regulation.

Any thoughts?
 
#1,189 ·
hey ya'll im pretty sure i already know the answer to this question being that it is a quite simple one, but you cannot ever be too careful. so in various parts of the harnesses throughout the car there are heat shrunk unions of grounds. would there be any consequential reason why i would not want to ground what ever where ever? common sense and electrical theory tells me that as long as its grounded to the chassis and the battery is obviously grounded to the chassis it doesnt matter haha for example: the ground for the brake res is grounded in the rain tray, but i want to ground it elsewhere to gain some wire and most likely not have to add any wire. any input helps. thanks :beer:
 
#1,198 ·
They come apart. How far are you planning to take this? If you are building a show car or just going all out then break it down and PC. If not clean, degrease and then hit with etch primer.

Can a master cylinder, clutch master, and slave cylinder be taking apart to be powder coated then reassembled? Or would it be better to just paint them?
 
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