Type: Posts; User: Apexxx
FWD and Auto is a bad combo.
I have a 6M and love it. A few tweeks, and it's a unique vehicle. I did APR flash, which I wouldn't dare w/a automatic. Got the BFI dogbone, A3 springs, 15mm...
No solid advice other than the owner's manual?
AMSoil GL-4 is pretty much the best. Usually, I recommend Syncromesh, which is a good bit thinner. Great product if you live in cold weather. Cheap too.
Otherwise, you know the drill.
Spare delete, jack delete, 60% rear seat delete. The seat alone is like 100lbs.
Lower entry for the old dogs too.
This is the synth oil you want...
The only point of 502 oil in a non turbo is to extend the drains out to 10k.
Any dino oil is fine out to 5000 miles in this low output engine, which does not stress the oil at all.
Thanks for caring. :)
Kinda creepy though.:sly:
In your climate, you could use 10w-40 dino if you don't mind changing it every 5000 miles. If you want to go longer, any 5w-40 will do the job and start better when/if it goes below freezing.
I have stock A3 springs, +15mm spacers.
It seems ideal.
No way, do not use additives.
It's absurd to think there are ingredients that oil formulators "forgot" or somehow cheapened out on.
In fact, the existing additives are proportioned in...
I know someone who lost an engine on a new GTI, like a 2010. It was the wife's car, and it just let go. Stock.
This is my interior set-up.
Saved about 100lbs and rarely use the 3rd seat.
Shell Helix Ultra, G-III, MB 229.5
No probs mixing, but 10w-40 is fine alone. Good down to teens F or below.
My dealer is cool w/mods.
The oil pumps fail in those engines. Maybe flow is inadequate.
How high is high?
oil generally won't affect OT to a noticeable degree.
I def recommend the early change, no later than 1500-2000 miles. These engines shed a lot of metals during break-in, and they're easily visible in the drain pan. I did mine at 1000 w/some RP 15w-40...