Type: Posts; User: tolusina
My first guess is that the bolts that secure the strut tubes to the knuckles didn't get tightened properly.
Work to buy parts so you can work on your car so you can drive it to work to buy parts.
One little crash, start over..........
Drain the engine oil.
Go fishing with your telescopic magnet through the drain plug hole, chances are good the stud is just laying there on the bottom of the pan.
Worst case, pull the pan.
I'm thinking you'll be lucky to get as much as $500 for the car with a blown trans.
Fix and keep it. Don't forget the rear main seal while the trans is out.
Do the coolant pump, timing and serp...
Sit in the driver seat, engine off, pump the pedal several times until it firms up significantly.
While holding the pedal down hard, start the engine, as the booster...
How's the new stereo working?
DING DONG, 100% WRONG!
If the diaphragm in the FPR has ruptured, fuel WILL be pumped directly through the rupture into the intake manifold regardless of whether the injectors are opening or...
The "WD" in WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement".
WD-40 is NOT a lubricant, it's a solvent, somewhat of a penetrant.
For the insides of switches, use electrical contact cleaner/lubricant.
If you want to replace only the rear bushing as shown in the pic quoted below on the lower left, it's very very simple.
Expect to be able to leave the control arm on the car, remove only the...
Location of the hole to drill is specified precisely in the A3 Bentley on Page 48-8, Fig.9.
BUT, from the symptoms posted, the lock cylinder is not the car's issue.
If you were to remove the...
As already posted, 20W50.
Temp sender is not related to the light/buzzer warning system.
High pressure switch is on the filter flange.
Low pressure switch is on the head.
Battery light on while driving is a good clue pointing to charging system failure, possibly your new alternator. Start all your testing there.
Possibly a second issue, possibly a flat battery...
It's a useful skill set available to stick shift drivers.
If the engine is cold, start in neutral, rev it a bit to 'clear its throat', shut it off.
Select reverse or second as needed, when ready...
Look to see if this happens.........
If not, look to the cable, pedal, components between the arm shown and the pedal.
You wanna throw parts at it or maybe test stuff first?
key on power;
input signal from the vacuum switch;
engine rpm input signal.
Controller's single output...
That's not the transaxle, it's the catalytic converter and its heat shields.
What does your dwell or duty cycle meter tell you the car is doing?