Type: Posts; User: stick90
He lives in bend oregon I believe. Look him up
Just run a 15x7
195 on a 9 inch wheel is stupid
I wouldn't expect to feel a difference between a 9 inch rotor and a 10 inch rotor.
It's a little car.
That cupped part breaks off and your left with a new surface. They work good
I don't see how these would have much if any camber adjustment.
There's no room for the top hat and spring to go.
Am I missing something?
Turbo'd aba would be the easiest.
This was during install.
I can get you a better one if you want.
I'm using it in my autox car but there's no reason it wouldn't work fine on the street.
It looks pretty clean. You have to do some steel brake line work but it's easy
It's not really special. It's...
I'm running a tilton. 3/4 bore
You can drill out the mounting holes on the master cylinder itself and then tip it on its side and it will bolt up. Then just use the remote reservoir.
What's the weight of the hood?
I'm curious if it's lighter than a stripped stock hood
I don't think powder coat will hold up on exhaust parts.
It'll be just fine without it.
I'm thinking he's the one that made off with all your money, not some machine shop who was supposed to cut some parts out
Too many people think the only cars that where intended to be driven out of town are new cars.
If you just have drums you should be fine with no prop.
Pretty sure the reason for running prop valves is to prevent the rears from locking up with the disk brakes.
On my gti the rears came out...
Why weld the control arms?
You want them to bend if necessary.
Cut it down then take it somewhere and have it welded.
Stick welder will suck on an oil pan
Did you switch to disk in the rear?
I can't say for drum but I think it would still be prop valves for the rear like disk.
On my gti it's 2 separate lines for the rear.
I have the rears t'd...
Seals are probably old and hard and likely will just leak. Anything above the oil line can rust.