Type: Posts; User: JamesS
European Performance Products can get it
After ****ing around with the rear engine mount I went to start it and was having issues with the starter. Ended up being the ignition switch (which has never given me problems before).
It doesn't take much of a drop for the control arms to be beyond parallel with the subframe
There is a syncro rear engine mount with 3 contact points instead of 4, but it is for the older style rear engine mount. The 02m with the bigger CV actually interferes with the rear motor mount cup...
Ran in to a pretty major problem with the passenger side axle not fitting due to interference with the rear motor mount. I hadn't considered this since most of the threads I read were converting to...
Thanks! I got the copper nickel line from a local shop that does a lot of brake lines/ air suspension stuff for semis. It is really nice to work with and is supposed to be quite durable.
Front end mock up
For the front depends whether it is 5 or 4 bolt. A 4 bolt g60 could easily fit 8.5 et15.
I used copper nickel line which Imo is better than stainless
Thanks! The actual car paint isn't very good I plan on redoing it soon with endura polyurethane paint (an industrial coating with amazing durability)
Got my axles back all shortened....
Brake lines are 3/16 with the aforementioned metric bubble flare fittings.
Clutch master is a banjo bolt, im not sure what size.
Clutch master to brake reservoir is 5/16 hose
Finished up some ancillary projects today...
Finally got the spoonfedtuning rear plate tub in place. It was a total bitch to fit properly because two of the studs were improperly aligned. It...
Great minds must think alike, I did mine in rustoleum truck bed liner a couple wks ago.
Thanks! I actually have some vr6 fenders going on in the front. The wider fenders with the narrow track suspension will reduce the poke.
Looks great :thumbup:. How are you wiring the slim fan?