Type: Posts; User: maddenbowler
you have to remove the lower trim piece under the steering wheel
you have a boost leak
check your grounds under the battery tray. Pretty sure one on the far right will be melted. Dont know the number of the ground without looking though.
any headlight issues or radio issues?
Possible burned connector at the ignition switch?
I thought the key was supposed to be in the "on" position when installing
put a meter on the back of the alternator to see what its charging. Then put a meter on the alternator cable at the fuse block above the battery. Compare the voltages. They should be very close...
most likely got a valet key and it wont have remote functions
ecs sells them listed as a stretch bolt kit I think. Look at the timing belt packages
other things? is there something you are leaving out of this story?
you can try a cap discharge
Tie rod end to wheel bearing housing (M12)
always replace 45 Nm (33 ft-Ib)
I just use an impact FWIW
downpipe without a cat will normally set the p0420 fault for catalyst efficiency below threshold
The coolant piece probably broke when you tried to remove the timing belt cover. No idea why the polydrive wont fit. Maybe you have the wrong size. Look down the hole with a flashlight and inspect...
post a picture of the mark on the crank and the cam at TDC.
Can you post a picture of the cams when the notches are aligned with the arrows
sure are descriptive. No fault code or anything.
Most likely just a bad heater circuit on one of the o2 sensors but how can anyone tell with that description
is your gas cap on?
Another reason I mention the instrument cluster is because it looks like most of the can wires go to points A121/A122. Which is in the instrument cluster. So if it was to start going bad it could...
pin 4 is 12V supplied from fuse S15 5amp
I think most can wires meet there.