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    VWVortex


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    Thread: Oil Pan Removal

    1. Member HiJinx's Avatar
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      09-22-2003 05:59 PM #1
      Ok, during my head swap, I was gandering at my oil pan and for the 1st time, realized how difficult of a job it would be to remove it, or so it seems.
      Can someone give a quick walk though of whats involved in removing the oil pan please?
      This would be a good FAQs BTW. So, those of you who have done it, pipe up.

    2. 09-22-2003 08:06 PM #2
      Funny you should ask, I just did this about an hour ago. I just installed the aluminum pan that JP got me. Here you go:

      To remove the old pan you will need to do two things. One: jack the engine away from the subframe. Two: drop the front of the subframe away from the engine. Then install the new pan. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this, stop now, and get someone who is qualified to help you or do the job for you.

      Tools you will need:
      10mm socket, extension, universal joint, and ratchet
      10mm wrench
      17mm socket
      13mm socket
      prybar
      jack, maybe two
      length of 2x4

      Here are the details and tricks
      Drain all the oil. Take all the10mm bolts out of the old pan. There is one that is hard to get to, it is on the right of the pan right over the subframe. You can get it out one small turn at a time with a 10mm wrench. Let the pan fall. Don’t worry it wont fall out till latter. Then remove the front engine mount from the car by removing the two13mm blots. Remember not to lose the two spacer washers from the back of the mount. Remove the two17mm nuts on the bottom of the side motor mounts. Place what ever you are going to use to jack the engine on the small ear on the block near the front of the engine on the right side. I would suggest a pair of 2x4’s screwed together of a length to be able to jack the engine about 4”. Be careful not to jack the engine too much, you will rip the lower coolant hose. After the engine is up, remove the front two 17mm subframe bolts. Do not remove the rear two. Let the subframe fall, it will fall about 4”. The pan will fall out. Be very careful at this point because there is nothing to stop the engine from falling right out the bottom if the jack fails. Do what ever you wanted to do with your oil pan and put it back in. If you are reinstalling the stock pan install the hard to reach bolts before you jack up the subframe. If you are installing one of the very rare aluminum pans you will need to lower the engine some to get the left “ear” to clear the radiator. After the pan is in, replace the subframe and by installing the two 17mm bolts. If you are strong enough you can push it up and screw the bolts in. If not, get a second jack and use it to push the subframe back up. Then lower the engine slowly so you can realign the side motor mounts in the subframe. Once they are back in you can lower the engine completely and bolt the mounts back in. Reinstall the front motor mount, remember to use the two spacer washers that you set aside. Fill your car with oil and you are good to go.




      Modified by vwmann1 at 7:07 PM 9-22-2003


    3. Member HiJinx's Avatar
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      09-23-2003 10:06 AM #3
      Ya, I'm not worried about the work at all. I was actually just hoping that someone would have some cheezy shortcut. *sigh* I feared all you stated. Oh well, such is life.....with a fox....

      Thanks!
      (great write up BTW)


    4. 09-23-2003 11:15 AM #4
      Sounds really easy. Don't be such a girl, girl-feet.

    5. Member HiJinx's Avatar
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      09-23-2003 11:16 AM #5
      "i want to slice everyone"

    6. 09-23-2003 03:32 PM #6
      It takes about 1.5 hrs to do this, not counting beer stopages

    7. Member HiJinx's Avatar
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      09-23-2003 03:42 PM #7
      so, about 4 hours then for me......

    8. 09-23-2003 03:48 PM #8
      Ya about that long. But, I like to see that you drink the champagne of beers!

    9. Member HiJinx's Avatar
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      09-23-2003 03:52 PM #9
      Quote, originally posted by vwmann1 »
      But, I like to see that you drink the champagne of beers!

      When I'm not broke from buying parts.... I drink the good stuff, but for 7 bones a 12 pack, that stuff is hard to beat. (its really not all that bad)

    10. 09-23-2003 05:17 PM #10
      Growing up in central Wis. it was the beer I grew up on and still drink today!

    11. Member VWFOX407's Avatar
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      05-01-2008 08:35 PM #11
      My advice to anyone getting the pain, I mean the pan out is to replace the oil pump while you are there. I figured my car is almost 20 years old..,thus a new pump won't hurt and since I will be doing the labor instead of paying someone else, the investment for the pump is a no-brainer, hey! Its one less thing/headache to worry about in the future with my Fox.

    12. Member Longitudinal's Avatar
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      05-01-2008 08:43 PM #12
      Holy cow, man. You went a long way down the shaft to find this one--and to make a comment about the oil pump. When a thread as old as this one gets dug up, it is because somebody has a question.

      All that said, yes, replace that $40 oil pump if you have any suspicions about it. However, they are usually good for a few hundred thousand as long as the oil is clean and not diluted with gasoline or contaminated with coolant.

      Like my Facebook page, Quantum Mechanics, for Audi Fox Quattro progress pics and more.

      https://www.facebook.com/VWQuantumMechanics

    13. Member VWFOX407's Avatar
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      05-01-2008 10:50 PM #13
      I don't know about diluted with gasoline or contaminated with coolant but my Fox oil pump is most likely the stock one and is getting close to 195,000.
      I don't know how to test it and at $40.00...should I bother? , again one less thing for me to worry about in the future with my Fox.


      Modified by VWFOX407 at 7:52 PM 5-1-2008

    14. Member fox guy's Avatar
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      05-01-2008 10:59 PM #14
      Do we have to do all that to change a pan gasket??? Can u get at the pump??

    15. Member VWFOX407's Avatar
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      05-01-2008 11:40 PM #15
      yup, unless you happened to have one of this. It would be painless, as all you would need to do is lift the engine to a comfortable height so you can unbolt the screws with ease...I love it when a plan works! My neighbor has one and reminded me as I was working under it today, I am ordering the
      part to work on it next week.



      Modified by VWFOX407 at 9:24 PM 5-1-2008

    16. Member kerensky's Avatar
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      05-02-2008 01:03 AM #16
      Quote, originally posted by vwmann1 »
      ... After the engine is up, remove the front two 17mm subframe bolts. ... After the pan is in, replace the subframe and by installing the two 17mm bolts.

      Well,as long as we're all necroposting,I'll add my standard warning.

      These 17MM bolts that hold the subframe to the car are special stretch bolts. They are one use only and are not supposed to be reused. I found this out when I broke one while replacing my suspension bushings. They're not expensive, but the dealer will have to special-order them, so plan ahead and have them on hand. Otherwise you might find yourself with your Fox stranded on jackstands for awhile.

      In my case, it snowed the day the bolts came in, and stayed below freezing for a month.


    17. Member Longitudinal's Avatar
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      05-02-2008 01:32 AM #17
      Quote, originally posted by VWFOX407 »
      again one less thing for me to worry about in the future with my Fox.

      Except that your new pump may very likely not be of the same quality as the original. Chinese junk is seeping into the VW engine internal parts market now.

      Like my Facebook page, Quantum Mechanics, for Audi Fox Quattro progress pics and more.

      https://www.facebook.com/VWQuantumMechanics

    18. 05-02-2008 10:17 AM #18
      Well how much for a oil pump from the stealership then. I would assume that they would still sell the German or Brazilian oil pumps, & not the Chinese crap. Glad I saw this post.

    19. n00b
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      07-11-2012 02:14 AM #19
      Im quiet new to VW and really cars for that matter. My buddy and I are fixing up his dad's 89 club fox and its been sitting in his drive way for 6-7 years now. I was wondering if anybody could give me good directions on an oil change. ( We have gotten the engine to turn over but an oil change is in the best interest soon.)


    20. Member VWFOX407's Avatar
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      07-23-2012 01:18 PM #20
      If the engine has a lot of gunk in it, buy some cheap oil and cheap filter with an engine flush product...(drain old oil, install new filter + add fresh oil) pour in the solution and run the engine per instructions on the bottle (perhaps some 5 minutes)...drain and add new cheap fresh and oil filter , (if you have oil leaks there's no point in using a higher quality oil IMHO...Once you have corrected oil leaks like the valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, camshaft seal, crankshaft seal, intermediate shaft seal - then you should use a better filter and oil quality)...if you keep asking "basic" questions, someone most likely sooner than later is going to recommend you to buy a Bentley service manual Vw Part No. LPV 800 504 or Bentley stock no. VR93...

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