A(u). Klasse A, unbeschrankt, ungedrosselt
Compared to a British roadster, all Volkswagens are reliable!
nevAr Lose - DE Minister of Foreign Affairs and Deputy Bankruptcy Controller - IPROfftopikstan, Den Mother - Team Emmett
Quote, originally posted by Nrcabby » switched power in an A1 or A2 for an aftermarket radio is the Black and Yellow wire going to the back of the defroster switch.
Do this if you want to see what a dashfire can do to your car.....
Quote, originally posted by type3cabrio » Do this if you want to see what a dashfire can do to your car.....
whoa there newbie. the HU only needs a signal from the ignition to let it know that its ok to turn on. theres only a tiny draw on that wire, the power is supplied from the main (constant) power. is there draw on your amp's remote wire? no. the ignition signal wire is the exact same thing. before you post, get things striaght.
thus, yes, it is perfectly ok to use the defrost switch as a signal to your HU. make sure you tap into that line properly to avoid shorting out anything. if you don't know what you're doing take it to a proper installation shop.
I have instructions for adding heat to the OUTER dash vents in the A/C-equipped cabbies at http://members.toast.net/mahoney/heaterbox.html
Text and sketches for an easy mod if/when you have the dash or the heaterbox out.
Modified by joelmahoney at 1:17 AM 6-4-2004
Useful link for decoding cabby vins.
Quote, originally posted by webrits » I recently de-coded my vin using this, and found out I had a Carat !!
Check it out
Black is back!
This is a complete guide on how to install blue LEDs in your clocks.
What we need:
8 3mm Bright Blue LEDs.
4 470Ohm Resistors 1/4Watt
A few loops of wire.
I believe thats all.
So here we go!
Get the cluster out. I suppose you know how to do this......
In my case I was swapping the ugly German looking gauge overlays with white ones I created at home. You can skip this part if you don't intent to do it.
So, I took the cluster apart and remove the needles. Very easy. Make sure you note the direction the needle rests before you pull it out. To do that, lift the needle over the pin-stop and see where it stops. Normally it should be at 0kms/0miles. Our gauges start from 20kms and 10miles but if they had a 0 thats where it would rest.
Now get two butter knives and gently slip them under the base of the needle, one on each side of the shaft, then twist the knives so they "pop" the needle straight up off of the shaft.
Undo the 2 screws on each face and you should have this on your hand.
Turn the cluster over and undo the 4 nuts in order to get the temp gauge and gas gauge out.
Once they are out you can maybe change the mileage of the odometer. The gauge I bought had a different mileage (obviously), so I wanted to match it with the real mileage of the car.
So what I did is not very professional but worked like a dream!
Undo the 2 screws on the left of the photo and remove the white long gear. It is noted in the red circle.
Now take a small philips screwdriver and insert it between the long shaft noted with the red and the black odometer cylinders. Create a small gap just enough to turn the cylinders by hand to the desired mileage. When done just make sure the cylinders are in line and the number can be read with the gauge face on.
If you have a prinout already of the overlays thats fine. Just match them over the orignal face and cut carefully.... if you don't then you can either scan yours and edit them in photoshop or you can download a ready made one from the net and then edit it according to your needs.
Thats the one I downloaded and the edited.
Mine are VDO (89-92) style gauge, so its a little different than the Motometer (84-88).
Print them on good photo paper and stick on the original faces. Cut them arround and also make the holes for the odometer. Take your time and use a BRAND NEW exacto knife.
We now proceed to the BLUE LEDs installation.
We start from the digital clock.
Once you have this in front of you, Undo the two screws noted in the rec circles.
There another 2 screws under it. To undo them lift the circuit just enough to get a small screwdriver in angle to get them out. You cannot get the board out unless you remove the flexible board completely. They are attached together.
Once all 4 screws are out you can lift the white cover and have access to the LCD screen. The LCD screen in held in place by two rubber pieces. Under the LCD screen you will find this.
This is the green film that gives that nice green light during the night (obviously). Remove that.
Now under the film you should have a transparent white diffuser. There are many ways to make this shine blue but since LEDs are directional I decided to go this route.
I drilled 2 3mm holes on its side of it. I inserted my LEDs there.
Connect the two LEDs together in parallel. You might have to trim the white plastic on the base of the cluster. You will know what I am talking about when you go back to install it.
Solder one 470Omh resistor in series.....
Connect it to a 12V source and voila!
You have your blue clock!
Solder the two wires to the inside of the old bulb holder.
Don't worry about polarity. If its the other way arround you just turn the screw in bulb holder one more turn to reverse the polarity.
I know you must be very excited by now. I was!
Now lets go on to the rest of the cluster.
Suppose that you have the gauges and the needles and everything back together.....
On top of the cluster you can see white cover.
Carefully remove that and you should have a green film under it similar to the one you found under the digital clock earlier. Remove it completely and never think about it again!
There are many ways to make the light from the LEDs diffuse to have an even light inside the cluster. I couldn't find a proper white diffuser so I just though of diffusing my existing blue LEDs by sanding down a bit their tip. I few trials with the LED connected to a power source created my desired result.
I used these cheap soldering boards because they were very easy to shape.
These are the candidates....
The previous bulb covered with a blue cap!
3mm and 5mm Blue LEDs
Although 5mm were brighter, I chose to use the 3mm due to their smaller size.
So I used 6 LEDs soldered on the boards and cut to fit the top of the cluster.
Once you are satisfied with the angle and the light inside the cluster use some instant glue to hold the boards in place.
Solder all the LEDs in parallel and leave two wires long enough to connect to the outside of the cluster.
These two wires are going to be connected with a resistance in series to the original bulb holder shown here.
Do a couple of trial runs to see if all LEDs glow before you put the white cover back on.
If you are unsatisified with the glow of the LEDs you can put a couple more resitors in parallel to reduce the overall resistance. So far 4 470ohm resistances worked ok. The LEDs are still working after having them on one whole day.
In case you are wondering why put the resistors in parallel I can tell you that the 1/470+1/470=2/470. Invert that and you have a new resistor of 235Ohms. Just for your information.
If you did everyinth carefully and slowly you should have something similar to this....
I am very pleased with myself.
But since I am a perfectionist I found two problems on the completed project.
1st, the Needles are red and you cannot see them in the dark.
Problem solved with some Fluorescent Orange paint.
2nd, The tacho overlay looks "funny". Thats because the overlay is originally designed for a motometer gauge which is a bit different. No problem since I wanted to redesign the overlays in the first place.
I hope you were able to follow the guide. For any questions feel free to ask me.
Just thought of creating a small interesting guide for those of us who don't know or they are afraid to do it.
Here we go....
This is a photo of my dirty engine bay. As you can see a valve cover gasket is gone. Too many oil dripping from the cover on the cylinder head.
So, I decided to change the gasket. Then I though, hmmmm why not change the camshaft with a one more agressive? So I bought a Kent 270 degrees camshaft.
But since I am about to change the camshaft, why not buy an adjustable cam gear to get the most out of it? After a little searching in the vortex and every ebay site known to me I come up with this.
Techtonics adjustable +-8 degrees brand new, which I got from D.A.T. here on the vortex. Top guy, sent it immediately! Good deal!
I also bought a new gasket for 5 euros. its amazing something so cheap can get you into so many troubles....
First I removed the accelerator cable, ISV and vacuum hose going to the brake servo. Now I have more room to work.
With everything removed over the valve cover, its time to attack the 8 10mm nuts holding it. Make sure you remove it carefully and you don't drop anything inside the engine.
Under the valve cover you should have a plastic cover which helps lubricate the cam better. Remove this also.
Then you will have something like this in front of you.
Check the edges of the cylinder head where the gasket was. There is oil everywhere. This had to be cleaned carefully....
Loose the belt tensioner and remove the belt from the cam gear. Don't worry about the marks. Its very easy to adjust the timing later on.
Also get the 4 spark plugs out and place them on a clean piece of paper with the order you took them out.
Now its time to remove the old cam gear from the camshaft. Using a 19mm socket undo the bolt. You can put something in the holes of the cam gear to stop it from moving. Be carefully not to damage the surface of the cylinder.
Once the cam gear is out you can see this small part on the camshaft. Thats the woodruff key which acts as a guide for the cam gear.
Here is the slot that the woodruff key is supposed go. Make sure the curved side of the woodruff key is inside the camshaft slot.
And now the most important part of the uninstall!!!! The bearing caps.
Undo the nuts evenly an all 4 caps to avoid excessive pressure on one side of the cam only. When the caps are almost out, put them on a clean paper the order you removed them. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! if you mix them you could have problems after.
Here are mine. They go from left to right as excactly they are placed on the paper. I also kept the position of the nuts just to be safe.
The camshaft is removed. Now you see the tappets. In my engine are hydraulic and need no adjustment. If they were noisy before the install, now its a good chance to change them with new ones. They are not that expensive.
CLEANING TIME..... BLIAX!
Yes, yes that black thing on top of the plastic cover is oil. Just to get an idea of how clean your engine is inside....
After a couple of hours of cleaning and ruining a few brushes everything is sparkling!
Now, The installation of the new camshaft is the opposite of the uninstall obviously.... Make sure you use a lot of oil on the bearing caps and you install them in the order you removed them. Don't tight one cap at a time, but tight a little bit on each one evenly.
Torque the camgear at 80nm.
Before you tight them all the way try to turn the camshaft a few times to see if its hard or if its hitting anywhere. Don't worry about the pistons. The valves are nowhere near at hitting them because as we have said many many many times 8V engines are non interferent engines. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
According to the bentley the camshaft bearing cap nuts require 20nm of torque. Make sure you don't overtight them or you will have excessive wear and possibly damage your engine.
The gasket is also installed. Make sure the surface is clean before you install it.
Note how clean the plastic cover is now....
Once everything is nice and tight, double check on the caps and the gasket. Make sure the small orange rubber gasket is seated properly and the blue one also.
Install the valve cover and torque the nuts at 10nm.
Find the timing marks and make sure everything is put back together before you turn the key. Don't worry about wrong timing. If its wrong its just won't fire.
Once the engine is running, keep it at 2000rpm for 20 mins to bend in the new cam.
Now head for your nearest rolling road and tune your engine! Enjoy you extra 10hp!
Job well done!
Cruise Control Diagnostics
The cruise contol system consists of four major components.
Vacuum System (including pedal switches and pump)
This is the most common source of problems. For testing, you'll need a way to generate and hold vacuum in the lines. A good tool for this is a miniature Mity-Vac type of device.
Most common wiring problems in this circuit occur in the wires going from the steering column, down the turn signal arm, and into the switch. There is also wiring for the vacuum pump that may need to be checked.
Steering Column Switches
Not usually a problem, but wiring in steering column can be.
This piece rarely goes bad, so it should only be suspect when all other common problems have been ruled out. The easiest way to test it is to put in a known good unit.
First, check the obvious. Blown fuses? Check brake lights -- if both are blown, the system won't work. Also look for any disconnected vacuum lines in the engine compartment. If you can't find the problem, more in-depth troubleshooting is required.
Disconnect the vaccuum line at the pump. With a Mity-Vac apply vaccuum to the system. The bellows should move the throttle and stay until you release vaccuum. Without a Mity-Vac, depress the rubber part of the reservoir and plug the other end of the hose. It should stay put. Repeat this test and depress the clutch pedal, and again with the brake pedal. The vaccuum should always release as soon as you touch the pedal. This will show whether you have a bad switch at the pedal, or a leaking line, or a bad bellows.
To see if the vaccuum pump is operating correctly, it is easiest to remove it. You can also do this from under the dash, but that involves pulling the glove box, a PITA. There should be a three prong electrical connector, a small hose that connects back to the pump and the main hose.
Put all vacuum hoses back in place and disconnect the electrical connector. Using your test leads, connect ground and +12v to the pump and solenoid switch. If you are looking at the connector on the pump like a "U", power is the right upright, the pump is the crossbar, and the valve is the left upright. Look on the electrical connector to make sure: blue/red is +12, brown/white is the pump ground and green/blue is the vent ground.
When you have power to the pump and valve, with the hoses connected; the throttle linkage should move. If you disconnect ground from the pump, the throttle should stay put. Disconnect ground from the vent and the throttle closes. If you get full travel on the throttle, then your pump draws sufficient vaccuum to operate. If all the above checks out, then you have isolated the cruise problem to the electrical side.
If your throttle doesn't move but your pump runs and you have no vacuum leaks, read on. If you have a Mity-Vac or a vaccuum gauge, you can get a numerical value for the pump. A year or so ago, my pump worked fine. This time around it drew 3 inches Hg. I disconnected the hoses, and connected a line to the air intake (the larger black port). I also connected a return line to the exhaust port (the stubby white one under the intake). I plugged the vent port with my finger, stuck the intake hose into some water, and applied power for 3-5 seconds. After this I ran it disconnected to flush the water out. After the flush I got 17 inches Hg out of the pump. I can't guarantee if there are any long term negative effects of this method, but it saved buying a new pump in the short term. (Six months later it still works)
There are two procedures here. The first is from the Bentley manual, the second is an alternative method. The advantage of the Bentley procedure is you may not need to remove the airbag to IDENTIFY the problem. The disadvantage is you will probably have to remove it to FIX the problem. This is in addition to squirming upside down in the footwell.
To test the electrics you need access to the control unit; it's up under the dash on the passenger side. You don't need to remove the dash, but you will need to pull the glove box and a trim panel or two. Push the A/C duct out of the way and remove the connector off the ECU. Contrary to Bentley, there are two: an eight pin connector, and a single ground connector. Pull the eight pin connector down and do the following:
Ignition OFF, power to cruise OFF, multimeter on OHM setting:
1) Test between pin 8 (brown wire) and ground = zero ohms, if not bad ground
2) Test between pin 3 (black/red) and ground, press brakes = infinite ohms, if not bad pedal
3) Repeat test with clutch pedal.
Ignition ON, cruise ON, mm to Volts DC:
4) Test between pin 1 (blue/red) and ground = 12V, if not bad fuse (power supply)
5) Test between pin 1 and pin 8 = 12V (re-checks power and ground in CC circuit)
6) With 5) above still connected (pins 1/8), shift the CC unit slightly in the direction of OFF, but don't click it over. If not = 12V, bad switch (checks half of a little documented "dump" or "coast" function)
Multi-meter back to OHMs:
7) Test between pin 3 and ground, switch CC ON/OFF. ON = zero ohms, OFF = infinite ohms; if not then bad switch.
8) Test between pin 3 and ground, switch CC from ON in the direction of OFF, but don't click over. Should go from zero to infinite and back, if not then bad switch. (tests the other half of the "coast" function)
9) Test between pin 3 and ground, switch CC to RES. Should be zero ohms, if not then bad switch.
10) Test between pin 6 (blue) and ground, switch CC to RES. Same as 9).
11) Test between pin 2 (red/yel) and ground, switch CC to SET. Same as 9).
12) Jumper between ground and pin 4 (blue/white). Pump should run (checks pump/wiring).
13) Jumper between ground and pin 7 (green/blue). Valve should click (hood open helps to hear it).
This requires nimble fingers and a little more delicacy, and won't test the wiring from the pump to the ECU or the switch connector to the ECU or the electrical switches at the pedals. It more effectively isolates the switch though and doesn't involve being upside down, on your back.
Everything off, you could pull the negative battery terminal to avoid honking the horn.
Remove the upper cover for the steering wheel. The CC wiring comes down the stalk and comes up over top, left side of the steering wheel switches and goes to a six pin connector. If you remove the steering wheel it's a lot easier; but is not absolutely necessary. I recommend it, anyway because you will probably need to do it to repair the switch wiring.
FOLLOW TO THE LETTER THE AIRBAG REMOVAL PROCEDURES!
Better safe than exploding!!!
You may get lucky and see a broken wire or two in the bend from the stalk to the connector. The wires are wrapped in tape, though; so it may look okay. The following guide will identify which wires go where. You'll be checking the function of the switch. Use the wiring from under the dash to ID which pin is which. These are different pins than at the ECU, but pins 2, 3, and 5 are the other ends of the same wires.
Pin 1 = Black/yellow
Pin 2 = Blue
Pin 3 = Red/yellow
Pin 4 = Black/blue
Pin 5 = Blue/red
Pin 6 = Red/black
Find pin 4 on the steering column connector, it provides power to the system and distributes it to the others. When testing, be careful not to short the meter at the pins, there's not much room back there.
Multimeter to OHMs:
Test between pin 4 and pin 5. Switch OFF = infinite/open. Switch ON = zero/closed. Switch from ON in direction of, but not OFF = zero/closed. Switch to RES = zero/closed.
Test between pin 4 and pin 2. Switch OFF = infinite/open. Switch ON = infinite/open. Switch from ON in direction of, but not OFF = infinite/open. Switch to RES = zero/closed.
Test between pin 4 and pin 3. Switch ON = infinite/open. Switch to SET = zero/closed.
Find pin 6. This gets the signal from the braking circuit.
Test between pin 6 and pin 1. Switch OFF = infinite/open. Switch ON = zero/closed. Switch from ON in direction of, but not OFF = infinite/open. Switch to RES =zero/closed.
If you have the Bentley you can see that there are more permutations, but this checks the important ones. You can also see that there are four switch postions in the stalk switch. The electrical positions correspond, from left to right with RES, ON, coast/dump, and OFF; not as posted as RES, OFF, ON. SET is a separate function down on the end.
If you do find a broken wire in the stalk, it is easiest to replace the wiring completely. In an interim, unsuccessful, repair I did successfully leave everthing in the car and added a separate "plug" connector from a computer on top of the column switches. This connector fixed an electrical problem, but I hadn't diagnosed the weak vacuum then. If you do remove the column switches to rewire the switch, take the following advice:
Be careful opening up the switch. There's a spring and a roller bearing-thing that jumps out. Find six strands of very thin test lead. It maintains its flexibility better. Each strand should be at least 4 - 6 inches longer than the original. Wrap all six strands in teflon plumbers tape. Push this bundle through the stalk from the base towards the end. Trying to route the cable the other way is a PITA. Solder (very carefully) the switch portion first. Snug the re-assembled switch in the stalk, then snip the wires to the correct length. Solder the pins for the connector last.
Cabriolet Top Replacement Experience
Warning: Any attempt to repair you car may cause problems. I am not responsible for your car, your errors, or your economic losses resulting from your use of this information.
Ok folks, I drive a 1991 Cabriolet that originally came with a dark blue canvas top. After sitting for a few years while the previous owner was inn possession, the top was a bit dilapidated. The canvas was torn left to right all the way across the top at the first fold point (about 1 foot aft of the header). I shopped around in my region and was quoted astronomical prices for the replacement of just the outer ‘shell’, anywhere from $675 at an upholstery shop to $1300 at Brad Noe VW in Tulsa, OK. After peaking with one of the local upholstery shops on the phone I stopped by to check out their operation and let them see the tops actual condition. This is when I decided to replace the top myself- the guy was going on and on about how much experience you need to do this repair and how VW tops are by far the most difficult, and then I met his shop help. The shop help was 17 and was in desperate need of some education, he had been working for the guy for 2 weeks and was in the process of replacing a Mustang top- alone.
PREPARATION (physical and mental)
Some required knowledge: The VW top is held on by three cables, one at the back and two on the sides. The side cables must be replaced and are available at your local VW Dealership for about $11 US. The rear cable can be reused and you will most likely want to do this as it costs $93 US at your dealer. The best place to learn about the VW top is the replacement top. I suggest you lay it out on your living room floor and just take it in for a few minutes. You will notice that there is no hole for the rear window, DO NOT TRY TO MAKE ONE NOW. You will also notice that there is a ‘pocket’ at the front of the new top, this is where the top is slipped over the frame on your car, it is the attachment point for the front of the car. You will see a thick bead stitched into the rear of the rear of the replacement top, this is where the rear cable runs and is the attachment point for the rear of the top. The sides have slots that run ½ the length of the entire top, or the area over the windows if you can picture this. These slots are for the side cables, these cables and their accompanying springs are the attachments for the sides of the top.
I searched locally and on the internet for other people who had replaced VW Cabby tops themselves and found a few great references, I will include these links at the end. After viewing their reports I created a list of tools that I would need, it included all of these:
· Screwdrivers, Phillips and flat
· Utility Knife (or razor)
· Craftsman 9mm/10mm offset ratcheting wrench (pt # 43367)
· Wooden clothespin
· Spray Glue, 3M or other reputable brand, get the strongest bond.
· Pliers, needle nose preferably
· Electric staple gun (with staples and extension cord if needed)
· Roll of nylon string- not cotton and not rope
· Miscellaneous other hand tools, including wrenches and sockets.
A critical tool in the replacement of my top was the Craftsman Offset Ratcheting Wrench, it brings a certain amount of ease to a horribly difficult situation. Read On.
To start, remove the lower bench of the rear seat, it is held in by 2 screws on the front lip of the seat- that’s all. Remove the package tray, that is the piece covered in carpet that hides the contents of your trunk. Fold down the rear seat, you do this by pulling the knob hidden under the trunk door and then pulling the strap located on the side of the rear seatback near the top. Leave the trunk lid open. The seat back should fold down nearly flat. Removing all of these components will create more working area in your car and give you places to contort your body while attempting to remove the rear cable. Now look under the package tray sides (the parts that remained in the car), you will see the headliner is stretched over some points to hold it tight. Grasp the headliner and pull is firmly but gently in the direction of the points to remove it. After you do this to all of the points the headliner will hang loosely from the top. Roll down all of the windows. Pop the latches for the top but do not fold the top yet.
Now is a good time to look at the side cables of your top- study them, make drawings, take pictures- whatever you need to do in order to create that same setup later.
REMOVAL OF THE LID
Note: In this section I am going to cover the removal of the top. The VW Cabby top goes on in exactly the same manner that it comes off, so once again study, take notes or take pictures. I found the best way was just to look at how the pieces worked and understand the system of parts.
First, the rear window must be removed. This is a very simple use of brute strength. Crawl inside the car and have a friend stand outside of the car at the rear window. Place the palm of you hand, with as much surface area of your hand contacting the glass as possible, on the rear window at the upper corner. PUSH. The glass will slowly start to come out of the seal and will come right out after you release the initial hold of the seal. Have your buddy catch the window if you become overzealous in your pushing efforts, otherwise have him gently tug at the glass to free it. Now pull the window seal out and set it aside. Get your flat head screwdriver and remove ALL of the staples that hold the old top to the rear window frame (yes folks, they stapled it together). Once you remove the staples you can look around the inside of the top- study up.
Next, remove as much of the top as you can with your handy utility knife. To remove the center section would be more than enough. Remember you are throwing this old top away, so feel free to sacrifice it in order to learn as much as you can. I suggest cutting it from about 1 foot behind the header, down the seams along each side, and across the back just below the rear window frame.
At the front of the top there is a metal bar that crosses the header, it has some brackets that hold the corners on also. Start by removing the brackets at the corners and placing the hardware in plastic zipper bags, or visually separating them on a counter or other work surface. Remove the corner brackets and then remove all of the screws holding the header bar. You should then be able to pull the header bar off, taking care not to bend it. Now move you focus to the sides of the top. You will notice that there are rubber seals covering the area where screws would be. These rubber seals slide out of their brackets, but be very careful as they are no longer available from the dealer and are very expensive to locate. Once you have slid out all three of the seals on each side you will see the metal brackets that hold the seals and you should be able to see the screws that hold the bracket to the top frame. On some cars the screws were covered with tape that makes a sticky mess when you try to remove it. But alas, the screws must be removed. After you remove all of the brackets you will then notice that the top is also glued to the frame, notice how this is done because we will be putting the replacement top on in the same fashion. Peel the top off of the frame and look around inside. Notice the spring tensioners for the side cables. Now is a good time to remove the side cables. Use your needle nose pliers to remove the cables at the front and then slip them off at the rear spring. Pull the springs out, but notice where they came from. You will need these old side cables to make the new side cables the correct length- do not cut them or throw them away, you may have to cut the top to get them out. Now you should be able to remove most of the top, if you cut the top like I suggested above you will be able to remove everything except the last few inches of the rear. These last few inches of the rear are where the cable is holding the top on. This cable is inside of a lip that is formed into the car chassis, the top is laid over the lip, and then the cable over the top. The cable is pulled tight and it sucks the top into the groove created by the lip- a neat little setup by Mr. Karmann. To remove this cable you have to crawl inside the car and lie on your back. The end of the cable is located behind the rear window and down inside the body of the car. Use the 10mm ratcheting offset wrench to loosen the nut on the end of the cable. If you intend to reuse this cable it is imperative that you use a backup wrench while loosening this cable (and when tightening it later) otherwise you will twist the end off of it and add 100 dollars to your bill. Once the cable is loose at one end switch to the other side and remove that nut, it should be easier now. After removing both nuts retreat to the outside of the car. Drink a Dos Equis, you deserve it. Pull on the last scrap of the top that is still on the car, you will be pulling out the cable also. Notice how the cable lays over the top and how these two fit into the groove below the lip- study, take pictures, whatever. You have now removed the entire top. Place the rear cable in a safe area with its corresponding nuts. Boy you are screwed if it starts raining.
REPLACEMENT OF THE LID
You are more than half way done, if you have taken the time to observe the methods used to attach the top you will have no problems from here on out.
Now take the top and put it over the empty frame. Do not try to put the frame in the pocket, or do anything right now, just place the top on the car and visualize what you are doing. It looks nice doesn’t it.
To start the operation you will need to put the top back on the ground. Go find the side cables you saved from earlier, and the new cables you bought at the dealership. The new cables came straight (not pre crimped). Take this time to put a crimp on the ends of the cable and fish a string or fish tape thru the slot in the replacement top. Tape the end of the new cable to the fish tape and pull it thru. Let the cable sit there quietly for now. Place the new top back on the frame, this time seat the frame in the pocket of the top. Now is the time to attach the header bar. Be careful and try to get the front bead of the top to sit flat against the windshield frame. If you mess up don’t worry, you can re do this later to get the front edge of the top to seat correctly. You will most likely be doing this while standing on your front seats with the top in a half open position. Leave the top in this half open position and head to the back of the car. You are now going to thread the rear cable through the slots in the top and into the body of the car. This step is frustrating because the top can pop out of position and be generally difficult, if your helper has not consumed all of your beer use him to hold the top and cable in place. You may find it easier to thread the cable through the top on one side only and then slip inside of the car and screw a nut on the end of the cable just a few threads. You can then return outside and continue trying to line up the top and the cable. The idea here is to have the cable sit just above the bead on the rear of the top and directly over the groove. If you can get this to line up you are doing great. You will then want to slip the other nut onto the other end of the cable (if you have not already done this in the course of trying to line it all up). Using the backup wrench and the ratcheting 10mm put a small amount of tension on the cable. The Physics of tightening the cable to draw the top into the groove are all wrong. YOU WILL BREAK THE CABLE IF YOU TRY TO PULL THE TOP INTO THE GROOVE BY SIMPLY TIGHTENING THE CABLE. Use the end of the wooden clothespin to get the top and cable into the groove, a rubber mallet will help too, but don’t tap the clothespin hard enough to tear the top. You can also position the clothespin on the cable, then you have to worry a little less about tearing the top, but it requires more force to seat the cable if you choose this manner. I suggest you start in the center and work your way to each edge. Have your friend keep an eye on it, too, and make sure the top does not go on crooked. Once the entire cable/top/groove system is seated you will need to return to the inside and tighten the 10mm nuts, using the backup wrench, tighten this up until you are worried. The tighter the better, unless you get it too tight and then you have to buy a new one… The sides and rear should all tuck in nicely as you tighten this cable, have your now drunk friend gently use the clothespin to insure it all fits. Now, drink a few Dos Equis yourself, that nut on the cable is a bear. (you should be at 3 beers in about 4 hours so far.)
Now is the time to close the top. You want to make sure when it latches that it pulls the wrinkles out of the top and looks good. The sides should still be hanging loose at this point. Look at the front of the top, where the bead of the top contacts the windshield frame. You want that bead to be flush and uniform, so get your Phillips screwdriver out and make a few adjustments and see if you can get it to look nice.
The sides are relatively easy. If you did the rear cable then you can do heart surgery and ice sculpture- the sides should be a piece of cake. Attach the side cables to the front attachment point and then re-assemble the spring tensioner assembly. Refer to your pictures, notes or beer bottle diagrams at this point to ensure correctness.
Glue time. Get the upholstery glue that you purchased, it should be a strong glue that has a high release point temperature- 3M is good, but avoid their 77 and Super 77. Use a piece of cardboard to shield the interior of your car and spray small amounts of glue to the frame rails. You are applying glue to the part where the seals and seal brackets mount, NOWHERE ELSE. After you apply the glue pull the flaps on the top around the frame and stick them to the glue. Follow the Glue Manufacturers directions in regards to if you should place glue on each piece to be assembled, or just on one. Once you have satisfactorily positioned each of the three flaps you are going to install the seal mounting brackets. These brackets act as a clamp to ensure that nothing flops loose at 75 MPH. You will attach all of the brackets making sure to place them in the correct position and side from which they originally came; NO, they are not all the same. Once you have attached the brackets you will want to use the utility knife to remove the excess material on the inside of the bracket. Taking your time and cleaning up really pays off here, under the hood it doesn’t matter too much, but in upholstery work cleanliness counts towards functionality.
The seals slide into the seal brackets. Using Vaseline or another lubricant is helpful. Silicone spray is always a good bet when trying to lube rubber parts. Take care in replacing the rubber seals, think $$$$. I have seen a used set of these sell for $200+.
After you have replaced the side rubber seals and are happy with the way the front fit you are going to want to trim the material from beneath the header bar. Take care to not cut through the headliner and really foul things up. You should be able to at this point, close the top and get in the car. You should be able to roll up the windows, and sit in peace within the confines of your car and drink another Dos Equis.
While you are consuming the adult libation you may notice that you can’t see jack out the rear window. This is because the rear window is sitting on the love seat in the family room. You can drive your car at this point and it looks really cool. It appears to be a mix between the European Golf Vans and a Cabriolet.
REPLACING THE LOOKING GLASS
The rear window is an easy installation. If you stopped and drove your car for a few weeks like I did then this additional step should take 45 minutes including setup and installation. If you are continuing on then it should be another 30 minutes or so.
Feel around the rear window to figure out where the frame is, you are going to have to cut a hole inside the dimensions of the rear frame without getting even the slightest bit out of the lines, I suggest you cut small and then staple. Yes, staple.
You should cut an X shape through the top within the window frame, you are going to need to make relief cuts in the top material at the corners in order to get it to lie down without wrinkles. THE TOP MUST BE CLOSED AND LATCHED COMPLETELY BEFORE CUTTING OR STAPLING. Be sure to not cut a circle out as this severely limits the amount of material you have left to tug on. You will pull the material taught and then use the electric staple gun to fire staples through the top material into the frame of the window. The frame is wooden if you are wondering, they just paint it black to match the interior. Now that you have stapled all the way around the frame taking care to use at least as many staples as the factory did you are read to pop the rear glass in place. If you have ever installed a wind shield into a gasket type setting then you are used to this. If not, read on.
Take the rear window gasket and install it onto the rear window. Get a roll of nylon string and wrap the string around in the seal groove at least twice, if not more. If you have never done this before you will be wrapping the string and trying over, so don’t fret. If you complete the following steps twice without success drink Dos Equis and then come back to it.
You have the string wrapped around the seal, so set the window up against the outside of the car. Have your slowly sobering buddy hold it in place. Crawl inside of the car and find the END of the string (not the beginning…), gently pull the string at a 90 degree angle from the plane of the glass. This will roll the lip of the seal in and allow the whole thing to seat nicely. You wrapped the string twice or more so that parts of the gasket do not roll in on the first lap around the window they will have another chance on the next lap. VW windows fit well and this should be easy for anyone who can butter bread.
You are now finished replacing the top. Congratulations. Send me pictures: firstname.lastname@example.org preferably of each step and the completed deal. Put your tools away and then go inside and apologize to your significant other. You are a touch too tipsy to drive so maybe have a nice dinner at home or have the previously mentioned significant other drive to dinner.
I hope this helps. If you have problems with my spelling or grammar feel free to make a contribution towards my tuition: Forrest King, 1807 S. Jackson Ave #A, Tulsa, OK 74107.
Top: World Upholstery, 1-800-222-9577 . Please tell them I sent you. The lady who answers the phone is a RUDE, but the product is amazing and fits perfectly. Better quality than JCWhitney. I paid $218 shipped for a vinyl cabriolet grain top in a custom blue.
Wrench: Sears. Buy the damn wrench. You will thank me.
http://pages.cthome.net/frank.....html (a good reference)
"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough"
courtesy of Cab42: Where can I find parts for my Cabriolet?
General Parts, Accessories -- used & new
(listed in alpha-numeric order)
Awesome GTI Store
German Auto Parts
German Car Company
Specialized German Recycling
The Parts Bin
Vee Parts & Accessories
Volks Bits (UK)
Performance Parts & Related Accessories
(listed in alpha-numeric order)
Import Vision Motorsports
Perfect Image Creations
Misc search sites:
Alldata (recalls, technical bulletins, etc.)
Gapa (parts stores)
Partsvoice (search for OEM parts and where they're located in the USA)
Top / Interior Sources
(listed in alpha-numeric order)
Meister gauge faces
VW Interiors and Tops
Wet Okole seat covers
Floor Mats, Car Covers, Car Bras, Bike Racks & Other Vehicle Accessories
Beverly Hills Motorsport
Body Styling & Kits
(listed in alpha-numeric order)
Perfect Choice Motorsports
(if the website isnt given just google the name)
How to make your side markers flash with your turn signals.
I promised that I'd post this about 6 month ago while I was in the gulf away from my computer. I just got done tracing down where I got it from to give the originator the proper credit for coming up with it. I have not done this yet myself but it is on my to do list and it looks like it should work fine to me.
Enjoy every sandwich - Warren Zevon
After having recommended several times that people should look to their fuel pressure regulator for the source of their pressure leakdown and the poor startnig that creates, I decided to document it.
My GTI once suffered from this and upon pulling it all apart found that the "tiny o-ring" (not to be confused with the "big o-ring") had disintegrated and particles of it were holding the regulator "bleed" open. When that happens the fuel pressure quickly goes to nothing once the engine is shut off. When you go to start it there's no pressure to squirt the cold start injector and you can have vapor locked injectors as well.
Here's a breakdown of the parts.
It is removed with a 16mm wrench from the drivers side of the fuel distributor. (trivia... it may be the only use you'll have for a 16mm wrench on an A1).
It is in two parts, one slippign over the other with a spring betwen them (alright thats 3 parts)
You'l be able to simply pull the first part out and the spring may come with it but the part with the tiny o-ring will no doubt stay stuck inside. Simply put a cap from an anti-freeze bottle by the hole and hit the key switch for a second. The pump will run and the fuel pressure will pop out the parts ito the cap. if there is any crud inside it wil also blow it out.
Remove parts and clean and examine. Spray carb cleaner up in to the hole liberally and flush by runnig the pump for a second.
The tiny o-ring in my picture is not round but tapered. That's what happens when you get 200,000 miles old. Lacking another o-ring the right size I simply took it off and reversed it. Reassemble in the right order and check for leaks (don't forget to put the copper washer back on.)
With the o-ring now sealing well I have almost instant starting! The procedure is simple but the parts are tiny!!!
NOTE: do not attempt to readjust the allen head screw at the center of the 16mm head. That is the actual adjustment for the FPR and is factory set expressly for your fuel distributor. Attempt to adjust this rarely gain you anything.
Modified by Moljinar at 3:30 PM 12-12-2004
Cabriolet Who's Who Thread
Oil Pressure Problems and how to solve them
How to change your motor mounts
How to change your oil pump
List of Injectors Data
How to Clean/service your tappets
Knock Sensor Installation
Solid Lifter Engine Valves Adjustment
2L 3A Bubble Block Swap
Another ABA Swap Page
Throttle Body Upgrade
2L ABA block swap
How to Adjust your timing
How to change the camshaft
Lot's of usefull Digifant Info (Ken's Page)
How to Increase the air flow to the stock airbox
How to Improve the airflow in your airbox
Digifant Idle Woes
A/C , HVAC
How to fix the side vents cold air only problem
Fix your fan blower
Fix your Blower Motor #2
Retrofit R134 to R12 system
Center Vent problem (Vacuum)
Center Vent Problem Take 2
CIS Vacuum Lines
How to change your blower motor
How to test your clutch
Complete guide to convert from Auto to Manual!
Gear ratios and RPM/Speed Calculator
5th Gear Conversion
Limited Slip Differential Upgrade
How to change rotors and Pads
How to Change your tie rod ends
How to change the rear shocks
Serpentine Belt How to
Installing a Scirocco 4 point Lower Stress Bar
Front Wheel Bearings Change
Rear Wheel Bearings Change
Hydraulic Power Top Repair
How to Connect a CE2 Cluster to CE1 harness
How to switch from 12 to 24 hour format on the LCD clock
Starter: How to change the bushing
Headlight Relays Installation
Installing adjustable height headlight motors
How the starter/soilenoid work
How to install blue LEDs and White faces in your gauge
How to install white faces and blue LEDs in 52mm VDO gauges
Starter Heat Soak Problem
Cruise Control Diagnostics
How to remove the toilet bowl spring clamps
How to swap A3 stalks into an A1 cabriolet
Corrado Dash in a MK1 Shell
How to change your golvebox lid
How to remove your dashboard
Heater Core Change
Gas Pedal Bushing
How to fix your broken/clicking speedo
How to replace the rear window frame
Complete Guide How to Change your Top
How to clean the inside of your headlights
How to create cheap crossovers for your tweeters
Stereo Cable Colors
ICE installation Hints and Tips
I will gather as much info as possible and add them here.
Modified by Black_cabbie at 1:35 AM 5-23-2006
Modified by Black_cabbie at 2:40 PM 2-5-2007
Replacing in-dash center vent/defrost servo (Cabs with power window switches)
What to look for when buying an A1 Cabriolet -- can also be used for A3s
Names and other Misc. Information
What do the names and badges mean?
What are the differences between the models of A1 Cabriolets?
What are all the trim levels of A1 Cabriolets?
What interiors did the A1 Cabriolets come with?
Top and Boot
Almost everything you need to know about your A1 Cabriolet's top and boot
Cleaning & Protecting
Source for replacement Cabrio(let) tops
Gauges & Warning Lights
What do the gauges &/or warning lights mean?
Fuses & Relays: Where and what are they?
How to install a radio head unit into an A1 Cabriolet
Parts & Accessories
List of links to parts & accessories
Modified by kamzcab86 at 4:11 PM 9-26-2005
what you need
11mm,13mm socket. T25 Torx, Power Steering Fluid(G 002 012)
1.remove hydraulic PUMP from car.
disconnect power cable. and use T25 Torx two unbolt next to hydraulic lines. just pull lined. it came out.
2.remove a power moter from PUMP ues T25 Torx.
3.so you see this plastic piece and piece of metal(top of pic)
you can see plastic piece is crack. this is stupid VW did not sale this piece. so you need buy all motor+pump and it is $800
so i just make piece of metal little more thick and bend each side.
insert plastic piece. glue it.
That IT. it is working fine now.
so you will spend$800
Sorry my english not so good but hope help!!!
P.S you can use plastic piece VW Parts #1E0871687
Modified by golf914 at 12:58 PM 7-5-2005
This is a problem: bad heater core.
Let's change it!
1. First of all we must drain a coolant. Remove a big hose from a thermostat. This is the lowest point in the cooling system (I think)
It will be good if the engine is warm (not very hot!), so the thermostat is open.
2.Disconnect 2 hoses under the hood:
Remove rubber sealer, push it through the firewall
3.Remove accelerator pedal and try to keep all this small details
4.Remove cover over the heater core (in my case there was no screws)
5. Try to pull out the core and find that it stuck.The reason of this is those hoses and next bad thing is a brake pedal
6.Now we must remove the heater assembly...
Remove 4 screws and push this thing down
remove center console. Turn heater body counterclockwise and pull out the core!
Old and "new"
8.Remove hoses from old core and put them on a new one. Change it if needed! Install new heater core by pushing it in a place!
9.Reassemble all in back order.
10. Add a drained coolant (or a new one), don't close a cap.
11. Start the engine, warm it up and wait until thermostat will open to be sure that all the air is out.
Use your best tool (your hand) to check it- when lower engine radiator hose becomes hot-it opens!
12.Replace and tight a coolant expansion tank cap.
13.Wait until an engine vent turns on, check for leaks (engine must run).
14. If all is OK, take a test ride, buy a
Modified by Mixagolf1 at 4:45 PM 3-17-2005
Bentley admits a wiring diagram error for the fuel pump on Digi cars:
Quote » Good Afternoon, Gentlemen,
The factory wiring diagram for the fuel pump circuit is indeed incorrect and I've run into this before when I was teaching that system back in 1987 when it was first introduced.
There are NO electronics inside a DIGIFANT fuel pump relay; it is a straight remote switch. That system is significantly different than the previous CIS systems because the signal to run that relay was an on/off signal which the relay electronics used to switch on the pump(s). Digifant fuel pump circuits use a continuous ground from the ECM to run the pump(s).
Pinout of that system is VERY easy! I have a 191 906 383C here on my desk as I type this.
Use a test light to "see" the signal that the relay "sees" on the fuse/relay panel.
Pin 86 is a terminal 15 - power with the key on and when cranking.
Pin 30 is a terminal 30 - battery power all the time.
Pin 87 is power output to the fuel pump.
Pin 85 (the little one) is the trigger signal from pin 3 of the DIGIFANT ECM.
System operation is super simple. When the DIGIFANT ECM sees the signal from the CMP in the distributor, it sends a ground signal to the fuel pump relay, the relay contacts close, and power is sent to the fuel pump(s). Sometimes, when you first turn the key on, the pump(s) may run for a second, but sometimes they don't.
Depending on the vehicle type, that relay also supplies power to other components such as the injectors or the oxygen sensor heater.
My relay is marked with the control number 167.
I missed what you were trying to fix, but if you think that the fuel pump(s) are not running, test them by jumping the big pins on the fuse/relay panel with a fused jumper wire in place of the relay.