RAISING THE ENGINE TO ACCESS THE WATER PUMP
WARNING: THE FOLLOWING STEPS REQUIRE THAT YOU DISCONNECT THE ENGINE/TRANNY MOUNTS FROM THE CAR. THERE IS ALWAYS THE POSSIBILITY THAT THE ENGINE/TRANNY MAY MOVE AND FALL WHILE IT IS DISCONNECTED. PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL WHILE DOING THESE STEPS AND THEREAFTER UNTIL THE ENGINE/TRANNY IS RESECURED.
29. Reach under the car and remove the two 16mm bolts that secure the tranny pendulum mount to the tranny. These bolts are indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below. The engine may rotate slightly when the bolts are removed, so be ready for this when you remove the second bolt. Also remember to keep track of which bolt goes where - the shorter bolt is towards the front of the car and the longer bolt is towards the rear.
30. Remove the front 16mm passenger's side engine mount-to-body bolt indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below.
31. Remove the rear 16mm passenger's side engine mount-to-body bolt indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below.
WARNING: MAKE SURE THAT YOU ONLY REMOVE THE BOLTS THAT CONNECT THE ENGINE MOUNT TO THE BODY!!! THESE BOLTS ONLY HOLD THE ENGINE MOUNT IN PLACE AND DO NOT SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE ENGINE. DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLTS THAT CONNECT THE ENGINE MOUNT TO THE ENGINE ITSELF (LOCATED BETWEEN THE ENGINE MOUNT AND THE ENGINE)!!! THESE BOLTS SUPPORT THE WEIGHT OF THE ENGINE. IF YOU REMOVE THEM WITHOUT SUPPORTING THE WEIGHT OF THE ENGINE FROM ABOVE OR BELOW, THE ENGINE WILL DROP!!! IF YOU WANT TO REMOVE THESE BOLTS, PLACE A JACK AND PIECE OF WOOD UNDERNEATH THE OILPAN FIRST!!!
32. Place a jack and piece of wood (for protection and to spread the load - a one foot long 2x6 is a good choice) under the passenger's side of the oilpan. Make sure the wood is against the flat part of the oil pan (yellow arrows in picture below) and not against the sloped part (red arrow in picture below). Also make sure to avoid placing the piece of wood up against the bump in the oilpan where the drain plug screws into (green arrow in picture below). If the engine is jacked up with the wood against this bump, it will concentrate the load of the engine on this spot and could possibly damage the oilpan.
33. IT'S FINALLY TIME TO JACK UP THE ENGINE!!! The picture below shows the height of the engine before lifting. Note that the engine cover (yellow arrow) is roughly even with the front end trim.
NOTE: THE DRIVER'S SIDE TRANNY MOUNT HAS NOT BEEN DISCONNECTED YET. THIS WILL BE PERFORMED AFTER LIFTING THE PASSENGER'S SIDE OF THE ENGINE.
34. Slowly jack up the passenger's side of the engine. If the car is on the ground or on ramps (suspension is still loaded), then both the car and engine will lift up initially as the engine is raised since the suspension is being unloaded. After the suspension is unloaded, the engine will rise by itself and the car body will remain at the same height. If the car is on stands, then the above will not occur - the engine will begin to rise immediately.
35. The engine can be jacked up approximately 1 3/4" before binding will occur. I don't recommend jacking the engine up anymore than this or you may possibly damage parts of the engine or exhaust system. Most notable are the oxygen sensors on the catalytic converter. If the engine is raised any further, the sensor leads will smash into the underside of the car and possibly be damaged. The additional clearance gained by raising the engine 1 3/4 " is just enough to get the water pump out - you shouldn't need to raise it any further.
WARNING: IF THE ENGINE OR EXHAUST BINDS BEFORE REACHING 1 3/4" OR SO (I.E., THE CAR STARTS LIFTING AGAIN AS THE ENGINE IS JACKED UP), THEN STOP IMMEDIATELY AND LOWER THE ENGINE BACK DOWN SLIGHTLY. BEFORE JACKING UP THE ENGINE AGAIN, DETERMINE WHAT IS PREVENTING THE ENGINE FROM BEING RAISED AND CORRECT THE PROBLEM.
36. The pictures below show that the top of the engine and the passenger's side engine mount were raised approximately 1 3/4" before binding occurred.
37. Even with the engine now jacked up, it is still necessary to slide the entire engine and tranny over towards the driver's side of the engine to get the water pump out of the block. Place a second jack and piece of wood underneath the tranny. Try to find a nice flat area where the block of wood can apply force the the tranny evenly. Such an area is indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below.
38. Jack up on the tranny very slightly, just enough to support the weight once the tranny mount bolts are loosened, not enough to actually jack up the tranny.
WARNING: DO NOT PERFORM THE NEXT STEP WITHOUT MAKING SURE THAT THE JACK/WOOD IS IN PLACE UNDERNEATH THE TRANNY. THE NEXT STEP INVOLVES LOOSENING THE BOLTS THAT SECURE THE TRANNY MOUNT TO THE TRANNY. IF THE JACK/WOOD IS NOT IN PLACE, THE TRANNY WILL DROP AND COULD POSSIBLY CAUSE THE ENGINE TO FALL.
39. Loosen the two 18mm tranny mount-to-tranny bolts (indicated by the red arrows in the picture below) approximately 1". You do not need to remove them completely. When you do this, the engine may shift slightly towards the driver's side of the car since the tranny mount-to-tranny bolts actually sit in slots in the tranny mount. This is a good thing as it gives more clearance for getting the water pump out. Make sure that tranny does not hang by the loosened bolts. If necessary, adjust the height of the jack under the tranny so that the weight of the tranny is supported by the jack.
40. Push the engine/tranny over towards the driver's side as far as it will go. It may be helpful to have someone lift and pull the tranny over from the driver's side of the car while someone else pushes the engine over from the passenger's side.
REPLACING THE WATER PUMP
41. With the engine raised and pushed over towards the driver's side, it should now be possible to remove the water pump from the block and install a new one. While it is possible to unbolt the pump from the block without first removing the belt pulley (there are holes in the pulley which provide access to the pump bolts behind it), there is still not enough clearance to remove the pump and pulley together. Therefore, you must first remove the pulley and then remove the pump. (On a MKIII, you can remove both together since the motor mount support is not in the way, but on MKIV the pulley and pump must be removed separately.)
NOTE: PLEASE READ STEPS 42 THROUGH 44 BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE THE PULLEY BOLTS.
42. The picture below shows a socket wrench and 6mm hex socket being used to remove the pump pulley bolts (yellow arrows). You can also use a regular hex wrench, but the socket seems to work better. Be warned that the heads on the pulley bolts are extremely shallow and can strip easily. Make sure that you insert the hex socket/wrench into the bolt head completely and apply side pressure to help prevent stripping from occurring. It is also a good idea to spray the bolts with a penetrating lubricant prior to removal.
43. If you are using a socket wrench with a hex socket to remove the pump bolts, you will need to rotate the pulley until the bolt being removed clears the motor mount frame support, as show in the picture above. The other two bolts will be blocked by the frame support and the pulley will need to be rotated again (and again) to get the other bolts out. To rotate the pulley, the tension on the serpentine belt needs to be removed temporarily. To do this, follow steps 3 and 4 in the following DIY - SERPENTINE BELT DIY. If you are using a regular hex wrench to remove the pulley bolts, there may be enough clearance between the pump and motor mount frame support to remove the bolts without having to rotate the pulley.
44. While each pulley bolt is being removed, the pulley must be held in place and kept from spinning. There are two easy ways to accomplish this. The first is to use the force applied by the tightened serpentine belt to hold the pulley in place while the bolts are loosened. (Note: If belt tension is not sufficient to keep the pulley from spinning while removing the pulley bolts, use the next method.) The second is to loosen the belt on the pulley (refer to steps 3 and 4 in the serpentine belt DIY) and insert something into one of the pump bolt access holes (indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below), such as a small hex wrench, to pin the pulley against the block and keep it from spinning. Either works well.
45. Once the pulley has been removed from the pump, remove the serpentine belt tensioner in order to provide more clearance for removing the pump from the block. To do this, follow steps 3 through 5 in the serpentine belt DIY.
46. Remove the three 6 mm hex bolts that attach the water pump to the block. These bolts are indicated by the yellow arrows in the picture below. Again, be careful not to strip the bolts while removing them.
47. More than likely, the pump will not come out of the block easily once the bolts are removed. If it doesn't, use a large screwdriver or other similar object to carefully pry the pump from the block. Once dislodged, it should slide out easily. If you did not drain the coolant from the block, coolant will spill out as the pump is removed. If the pump will not slide out completely, you may need to twist it slightly to clear the motor mount frame support or you may need to push the engine over towards the driver's side some more.
48. Once the pump is out, you should see a big hole in the block, as indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture below.
49. Check to make sure that all of the fins on the existing pump impeller are still intact. If some have broken off, check inside the pump hole to see if they are in there. If not, that means they have traveled into the cooling system and are stuck somewhere. There is no easy way to retrieve the pieces except to disassemble and inspect parts of the cooling system, such as the thermostat and radiator. When I removed my pump, I discovered that one of the impeller fins had broken off. I didn't feel like spending the time and effort to find it so I just left it in the system. I'm not going to worry about it unless I have cooling system problems.
50. Prior to installing the new water pump, clean the pump mating surface around the hole in the block with a rag or paper towel to remove any junk.
51. Lubricate the new o-ring for the new pump with some coolant and install it in the groove on the pump. Next, install the new pump into the block, line up the bolt holes (they only line up one way), insert the bolts and tighten to 11 ft-lbs. We put some anti-seize on the bolt threads to make sure they'd come out easy next time (although hopefully there won't be a next time).
52. Install the belt pulley on the new pump, insert the bolts and tighten to 18 ft-lbs. We put some Loctite on the pulley bolts to help ensure that the pulley didn't come flying off the pump while spinning at thousands of RPMs.
53. Reinstall the serpentine belt tensioner, make sure the belt is on all of the pulleys correctly and reapply tension to the belt.
54. You should now have a new, fully-functional water pump. Now lower the engine, reattach the tranny and engine mounts and reinstall all of the parts that were moved or removed by following steps 3 through 40 in reverse.
55. The torque specs for the engine and tranny mount bolts are as follows:
- passenger's side engine mount-to-body bolts - 30 ft-lbs + 90° (stretch bolt)
- pendulum mount-to-tranny bolt, front - 30 ft-lbs + 90° (stretch bolt)
- pendulum mount-to-tranny bolt, rear - 30 ft-lbs
- driver's side mount-to-tranny bolts - 44 ft-lbs + 90° (stretch bolt)
56. That's it. Enjoy the fact that you just saved a ton of money by doing this yourself!
Modified by VgRt6 at 9:12 AM 3-6-2007