I’ve came across many info as I was trying to get a new style key to work with my Jetta, so I just thought to pass on this info to anyone who might find it useful, especially those who are looking to replace their crappy old style key with the cool new style one (see pic below), as well as those who are looking at obtaining a replacement key for the one they lost
Ok, gotta put this lame disclaimer first to get my (_|_) covered: I believe all info below to be accurate. You, however, must assume risks are involved when working through the procedures below. So if something goes wrong, u don’t blame me and I can’t be held responsible in any way
This write-up is divided into many sections, with their respective titles typed in bold and underline. The end of a section is indicated with a thumb-up [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
New style key remote replacement for 1999.5 – early 01 models
For those who are using the old style key and wish to switch using the new style ones, please note that there are two different versions of the new style keys out there with different part #s. Both versions of the new style keys look exactly identical, but only one of them works with cars that originally came with the old style keys. For reference, the following are the part #s of all switchblade remotes for the mk4s:
1J0 959 753 F -- (for immobilizer 2)
1J0 959 753 T -- (for immobilizer 2)
1J0 959 753 AM -- (for immobilizer 3)
If you’re sure that your car originally came with the old style keys, then you would know that your car is equipped with immobilizer 2 (except 1999.5 models which are not immobilizer equipped). So to switch using a new style key, the one with part # 1J0 959 753 T would be the right one you need, since it works with immobilizer 2 equipped mk4s (as well as the immobilizer unequipped 1999.5 models). I learned all of these the hard way when I was trying to get a new style key to work with my Jetta, and wasted some $$$ in the process, so make sure you have the right key with the right part # before doing any programming [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
Key remote replacement for 2001 – 04 models
Please refer to the previous section for the part # of the key remote for your car, just make sure the replacement you’re getting is compatible with your immobilizer. For those with 2001 models, please note that VAG was making a transition with the immobilizer type during the model year, from immobilizer 2 to the more advanced immobilizer 3. So double-check your type of immobilizer equipped before obtaining a replacement. For those with model year 2001.5 and newer, your car comes with immobilizer 3. In any case, you can play it safe by getting a replacement key remote that has the same part # as the ones that originally came with your car [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
In case you’re wondering…
a. The remote control transmitter and the transponder chip equipped key are actually two separate components that are put together as one single device.
b. The part # of the device (remote + key) is located inside the remote control transmitter, which is the bottom halve of the device. You’ll see it once you open up (separate) the device.
c. The transponder chip is embedded inside the top halve of the device; not inside the keyblade.
d. You must get the new key coded with your car’s immobilizer (if equipped), either using a VAG-COM or ask your dealer to do it for a fee, in order to be able to actually drive your car with it.
e. Unless you already have a cut keyblade for swapping, you’ll need to go to the dealer to get your new keyblade (blank) cut for a fee, or you can save some $$$ by taking your chance with a Locksmith, but don’t come crying if he screwed up your blade.
f. It is possible to have a maximum of four remote controls for your car [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
The keyblade is held in place with a small roll pin, flip out the keyblade halfway and you'll see it. To separate the keyblade from the device, just hammer out the pin with an appropriately sized punch or nail. After that, you should be able to pull the keyblade away from the device. If you can remove the keyblade properly, you can figure out how to reinstall it onto a new remote on your own. When reinstalling, just make sure the side of the keyblade with the logo “Huf” is facing the opposite side of the panic button when flipped outward, or else the roll pin would not go in [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
Programming the remote…
You can do this with either a VAG-COM or two keys of your car. But if you only have one key, then a VAG-COM (or your dealer) is your only solution. See the VAG-COM instructions here:
If you have two (or more) working keys of your car, then you also the option of doing it without using a VAG-COM. Just do the following:
1. Insert any one of the working keys into the ignition lock and switch to the ON position without starting the engine.
2. Using any of the remaining keys, manually lock your car from the outside.
3. Press either LOCK or UNLOCK on the remote (to be programmed) once, then wait 2 seconds.
4. Press either button again once.
5. Switch off ignition and remove key from ignition.
6. You should hear a beep as a confirmation that the programming is completed [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
Matching your key to the immobilizer…
As mentioned, you must do this with a VAG-COM or ask your dealer to do it for a fee. Keep in mind that anytime a new key is matched to your car’s immobilizer, all other existing key(s) must be re-matched to the immobilizer as well, or else your existing keys would no longer be able to “communicate” with your car’s immobilizer. So make sure to have all the keys of your car with you when doing this procedure.
If you have a 4-digit secret key code (SKC) for your car, then you're ready for this procedure using a VAG-COM. Your SKC can be found on a black plastic tag that was given to you when taking delivery of your car. On one side of the tag, there is a sticker with a scratch panel. Your SKC is underneath that scratch panel. So scratch off the panel in order to reveal your SKC.
See the VAG-COM instructions for key matching using a 4-digit SKC here:
If you were not given a SKC when taking delivery of your car (as in some 2002 and all ‘03+ models) or unable to retrieve the correct 4-digit SKC, then you’ll need to request the workshop code and the importer # from your dealer, along with your car’s 7-digit SKC, before proceeding with a VAG-COM. These three pieces of info can be obtained from your dealer only if you can provide them with your car’s 14-digit immobilizer ID #, your VIN, and prove of ownership. Also make note of the date on which your 7-digit SKC was generated by the dealer, as it is required for the SKC to be valid for this procedure.
See the link below for how to obtain your immobilizer ID #,
and the VAG-COM instructions for key matching with a 7-digit SKC:
The link below contains instructions specifically for
key matching with immobilizer 3 (using a 7-digit SKC):
**** Please note that you can either first get the remote control part to work then the key (transponder chip), or vice versa ****
Whew, can’t believe I’ve just put a big load of info for this write-up. Hopefully I’ve covered some FAQs for the mk4 remotes, and that it would do some goods to my fellow ‘texers. Happy VeeDubbing…
A pic for your viewing pleasure – old style key (top) vs. new style key (bottom)
Photo courtesy of Scott Volkswagen
Modified by Gee Spoolin at 2:22 AM 4-13-2004