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    Thread: manual transmission fluid

    1. 02-12-2004 08:28 AM #1
      I'm at 105K and I think it is probably time to change the transmission fluid. I have a manual 98 passat. I know it is much easier to change a manual but I cant seem to find any details. Wondering if anyone can supply instructions, detailed or general. Thanks!

    2. 02-12-2004 09:13 AM #2
      Get the bently book.
      There is a drain and a fill plug on the trans and differentials.
      Be sure to use VW fluid.

      Good idea to change it, I might have done it at 90,000 miles
      or earlier.

      Brett
      2003 GLX


    3. 02-12-2004 11:17 AM #3
      I read in a writeup somewhere (sorry, I can't remember exactly where), that to make sure you can remove the fill/check plug BEFORE you pull the drain plug. If you don't, you could end up with a drained transmission and a simple stuck plug preventing you from driving your car.

      SirWired


    4. Member jddaigle's Avatar
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      02-12-2004 12:53 PM #4
      Here's a writeup for a Golf. Things will be in slightly different locations on the Passat due to the different engine layout, but it's the same procedure. As Brett said, use the VW G50 fluid. You'll need 2 liters.

      Every 50,000mi isn't a ridiculous drain interval in the future.

      edit: wrong attribution


      Modified by jddaigle at 10:56 AM 2-12-2004


      Modified by jddaigle at 10:56 AM 2-12-2004

      - Jeff
      B6 Passat 3.6 & 4motion Resource Thread
      Now: 2008 VW Passat 3.6 4motion Wagon, 2013 Fiat 500 Sport
      Then: 1987 Volvo 745GLE, 1989 Volvo 740GL, 1994 Volvo 940T, 1995 Infiniti G20, 2000 VW Passat 1.8T, 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg Ed (x2), 2004 VW Golf TDI, 2006 Jetta TDI

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      02-12-2004 01:08 PM #5
      You need a special bit to get the drain bolt off the bottom. It's a triple square security bit. Good luck finding it. You'll have to buy it from http://www.zelenda.com or otherwise. The fill bolt is a 17MM allen bolt.

    6. 02-13-2004 10:31 AM #6
      Thanks for all the pointers! Now I know what to look for when I go hunting under the car.

      So there is no filters or particle magnets I need to worry about? Is Red Line compatable with the three up/three down passat manual? I read conflicting things about using it in four up/ two down golf-jetta transmissions. thanks again


    7. Member The Swami's Avatar
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      02-13-2004 10:54 AM #7
      Here's two excellent write-ups!

      http://www.taligentx.com/passa....html

      http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=61148

      A fellow ClubB5 member asked me about performing an ATF Fluid change on his Passat. Stay far away from Redline D4 Synthetic ATF because it doesn't do well in cold weather. It runs very well in racers and during the spring and summer months, but on the Tiptronic transmissions I've heard reports of slight groaning when the transmission is heating up in the winter.

      LubroMolly MoS2, and Pentosin ATF both meet VW/Audi G052 162 A2 specification, and run pretty well in all-weather environments. I'm changing the fluid in my W8 at 50K and I plan on using the stuff from the dealership with a touch of Militec-1.

      Now for the Final Drive Fluid, you should use GL-5 specification fluid from vendors like Mobil-1, AmSOIL, or Lucas-Oil. (75W-90)

      You should also change the pan-gasket, filter, and all plugs and seals. The parts are listed on the website but you should check with a VW dealership! These writeups describe the process in full detail..


      Modified by The Swami at 8:07 AM 2-13-2004


    8. Member jddaigle's Avatar
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      02-13-2004 01:28 PM #8
      Quote, originally posted by CT-passat »
      Thanks for all the pointers! Now I know what to look for when I go hunting under the car.

      So there is no filters or particle magnets I need to worry about? Is Red Line compatable with the three up/three down passat manual? I read conflicting things about using it in four up/ two down golf-jetta transmissions. thanks again

      No filters on the manual transmission. I'd stick with VW G50 myself, but technically any GL-4 compliant fluid will work. GL-5 will cause synchro wear.

      - Jeff
      B6 Passat 3.6 & 4motion Resource Thread
      Now: 2008 VW Passat 3.6 4motion Wagon, 2013 Fiat 500 Sport
      Then: 1987 Volvo 745GLE, 1989 Volvo 740GL, 1994 Volvo 940T, 1995 Infiniti G20, 2000 VW Passat 1.8T, 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg Ed (x2), 2004 VW Golf TDI, 2006 Jetta TDI

    9. Member jddaigle's Avatar
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      02-13-2004 01:29 PM #9
      Quote, originally posted by The Swami »
      Here's two excellent write-ups!

      http://www.taligentx.com/passa....html

      http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=61148

      A fellow ClubB5 member asked me about performing an ATF Fluid change on his Passat.

      The original poster has a manual transmission.

      - Jeff
      B6 Passat 3.6 & 4motion Resource Thread
      Now: 2008 VW Passat 3.6 4motion Wagon, 2013 Fiat 500 Sport
      Then: 1987 Volvo 745GLE, 1989 Volvo 740GL, 1994 Volvo 940T, 1995 Infiniti G20, 2000 VW Passat 1.8T, 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg Ed (x2), 2004 VW Golf TDI, 2006 Jetta TDI

    10. Member The Swami's Avatar
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      02-13-2004 01:40 PM #10

      DOH.....


      Modified by The Swami at 10:42 AM 2-13-2004


    11. 02-17-2004 02:25 AM #11
      Observe the comment by RyanM.

      See my mini thread for these tools:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1142127

      I already had a giant hex key set, but the filler plug bit for a socket wrench was much better. The triple square has a hole in it to match the drain plug.

      I use AMSOIL 75W-90. I filled using a small universal transfer hand-pump from an automotive parts retailer that has a few hose nozzle and adaptor gadgets. Though the car was jacked slightly at a nose-up angle, I got a good drain and fill. I could listen to the gurgling noises from the fill hose into the diff', and hear how full it was getting by the audible pitch, then I slowed pumping and watched for the first drip, then sealed closed the fill hole.

      You may have to turn the left drive axle by hand to align its cut-out with the fill-hole to fit your wrench.

      Earlier in the task, after I drained, I realized I wanted a magnetic drain plug, just for kicks. Also, the stock oil really stinks, it was in fine condition, but just has a stench odor. I fingered inside the drain hole and did not feel any shavings.

      I use two small hydraulic 2-ton jacks on each suspension arm shoulder to support, and steel jack stands separate from long 5"x10" (cross section) hardwood deck studs in failsafe locations only jammed hand-snug not as supporting role If a seal were to blow on the hydraulics, the car would not fall or tilt. I rather this much junk under the car to protect me because I live on a quake fault with frequent tremors (ZIP 94583).

      Mileage now, 32k.


    12. 02-19-2004 11:25 AM #12
      Would this drain plug tool be one of the specialty tools that auto zone loans for free? How is the tool different from a gian Torx bit?

      thanks!


    13. 02-21-2004 01:19 PM #13
      auto zone doesnt loan the tool. Dealership wanted $120 bucks to change the fluid, even after i made it clear it was a manual. I will probably just buy the tool and then put it on ebay. Unless anyone has a used one for sale?

      VW is really sticking it to do-it-yourself-ers. Make you buy a tool you will use maybe twice in your car's lifetime.


    14. 02-21-2004 07:43 PM #14
      Keep in mind, its just a screw in plug, and should not need a great
      amount of force to remove.
      You may not need to buy any tool, something else may work fine.
      Jaguar made a whole tool chect of 'special' tools, none
      of which was NEEDED, maybe make the jobs a bit easier, but
      none were absolutly nessasary to get the job done...

      maybe look at the plugs first....

      Brett
      2003 GLX


    15. 02-24-2004 10:21 PM #15
      When I inquired at the dealer about changing the manual transmission fluid, their reply to me was that it was a sealed unit and the fluid does not need replacing?

      Has anyone else encountered this? Does this make sense?


    16. 02-24-2004 10:39 PM #16
      They would like to sell you a new trans, or a new car.
      At over 100,000 miles, it would not hurt to change it, as long
      as you use the correct fluid.
      Wear metal builds up in the lube, and also moisture, because
      the trans must have a vent, as it gets hot and cold and must
      vent the pressure.
      it likely has magnets someplace to hold the wear metal, but
      the lube still duilds up crap in it.

      Brett
      2003 GLX


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