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    Thread: DIY - Replacing timing chains, tensioners and guides on a 12v VR6

    1. 01-03-2009 09:24 PM #376
      Check out the transmission removal DIY by FaelinGL. It does a great job of explaining how to get it out without a lift or transmission jack.

    2. 01-08-2009 11:35 PM #377
      im scared for this step..

    3. Member rigger's Avatar
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      01-12-2009 10:05 PM #378
      If anyone is interested, I believe that DSM makes the parts for the timing chain tensoners. The plastic is called "Stanyl"
      There's an interesting PDF available at:
      http://www.dsm.com/le/en_US/st...s.htm
      http://www.dsm.com/le/static/s...s.pdf
      (there is a picture of a W10 engine on the 5th page using the parts from DSM)




      Modified by rigger at 10:07 PM 1-12-2009

    4. Member CorradoMagic's Avatar
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      01-13-2009 05:18 PM #379
      remove the pan to clean out any debris. The plastic can break down & clog the pumpp screen. The larger pieces can cause oil starvation & damage over a long period of time [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      The DubNutz OEM & Performance parts in Long Island. Autotech, Quaife, ST, KW, Koni, Tein, JE, ClutchMasters, StopTech, Samco, Whiteline, TT, VF-E, Euro body accessories, TDN performance Mounts and lots more. Lowest Prices on ST Coilovers! ask

    5. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      01-13-2009 08:54 PM #380
      Quote, originally posted by VgRt6 »
      Check out the transmission removal DIY by FaelinGL. It does a great job of explaining how to get it out without a lift or transmission jack.

      Just know that it's way easier in a Mk4 then a Mk3 it's nice not to have that motor mount cup on the subframe in the way. I was very excited when a trans almost fell out onto my head today. Oh and $#()*@# that power steering line.
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
      KPTuned - Official MegaSquirt: Sales - Repair - Installation - Tuning
      MK3 Race Car Partout

    6. 01-14-2009 12:52 AM #381
      Did you remove the axle flanges from the diff? I've only done it with them in and it was a PITA. And yes, that power steering line SUCKS!

    7. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      01-14-2009 01:00 PM #382
      Nope I leave them in unless the trans gets rebuilt. I hate smelling/covering myself in gear oil. It is MUCH easier with them (at least the pass side) out though! One other nice Mk4 feature is the cv to trans flange bolts are easier to get to and remove. I can probably do an axle in 10mins.
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
      KPTuned - Official MegaSquirt: Sales - Repair - Installation - Tuning
      MK3 Race Car Partout

    8. Member wav3form's Avatar
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      01-18-2009 10:30 AM #383
      It may have been said already but is it wise to change just the upper guide rail and nothing else? That I can do on my own. My '01 only has 74k miles and I haven't heard any noise but I get paranoid about these parts wearing and letting go. Is it worth the time to do that or should I just have the entire job done to get it over with?

    9. Member VRnasty08's Avatar
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      01-23-2009 09:50 PM #384
      thanks for the write up [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] im doing this asap.well once i get income tax money.along with accessory belt.70C thermostat and other things

    10. 02-21-2009 03:46 PM #385
      Quote, originally posted by taroy1 »
      I am up the same creek in a chicken wire canoe. ... So, who has some good suggestions on how to creatively pull the transmission without a car lift or a transmission jack?

      Success! New timing chain, guides, and tensioners are in along with a clutch kit while the transmission was out. Getting the tranny out was interesting for this first-timer. I ended up using an engine support bar from Harbor Freight that straddled the engine compartment. It held the engine up to take weight off the mounts. The trick with the transmission was to use strong ratcheting tiedown straps slung over the engine support bar to gently lower and raise it. Took some creative maneuvering but now I have a new merit badge.
      Not a week after finally getting the car back on the road and running great, my heater core gave up the ghost yesterday. It looked like a Holywood smoke machine from the vents. Looks like my next big project has been identified.

    11. 02-21-2009 04:35 PM #386
      How much was the engine support bar and Harbor Freight? Do you have the part number?

    12. 02-21-2009 04:49 PM #387
      Quote, originally posted by VgRt6 »
      How much was the engine support bar and Harbor Freight? Do you have the part number?

      It was $49.99, item #96524. Quite heavy duty and worked like a champ!
      http://www.harborfreight.com/c...96524

    13. 02-21-2009 05:01 PM #388
      [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    14. 03-06-2009 04:57 PM #389
      Just joined to reply to this topic
      I have a Mk3 Vr6 golf, 135k on the clock.
      I am a mechanic (work for Bmw) in Swindon, UK.
      But this guide was fantastic, did the job in a weekend with my brother (previous owner.....who now has an R32).
      So, thanks very much for the "how to" it was very usefull, we actually printed it out an laminated it for ref whilst doing the job
      Here are a few pics......... thanks again










      You get the idea

    15. 03-11-2009 01:01 PM #390

      FAntastic write up!!!
      You really are the king of Chains!!
      I have a question, any input would be most appreciated.
      I have a 2001 with the newer setup. Rescent purchase. I have a code P0340 which I assumed was an issue with the timing. Using ur invaluable threads I figured id peek in and have a look. Seems from what i could find the back cam jumped a couple of teeth on the chain. the cause was a cam tension bold that was stuck half way in and not giving the correct tension on the chain. Also found that the upper guide was cracked in half maybe due to the chain flutter. Not alot of wear on the guide and tensioner. My question is after putting back together with a new guide and tensioner bold and doing the two revolutions my alignment plates are right on the edge of fitting. The slots in the end of ther cams are almost but not perfectly horizontal. Do you think this is chain stretch or wear or is it possible that there could have been a jump on the intermediary sprockets. I have done what I could to try and check on the lower chain and it appears to be ok but it is hard to tell when only viewing from ther top side. Other than doing a complete tear down is there any thing you would suggest? Will the car run ok with this close w/cam timing.
      Again great thread for bruised knuckle crowd!

    16. 03-11-2009 01:14 PM #391
      Did you verify that the intermediate sprocket was set correctly before retiming the upper chain? If you did, then it's probably chain stretch. If you didn't, then the intermediate sprocket may not have been in the correct position. As stated in the DIY, there are four different intermediate sproket positions when the crank is set to #1 TDC. Only two of them are the correct position for installing and timing the upper chain. If the other two are used, then the upper chain will be off by 1/2 tooth (~3° or so IIRC).

    17. 03-11-2009 02:11 PM #392
      When doing this alignment I aligned notch from crankshaft to noth in housing (TDC). Viewed that the intermediary sprocket notch was visable and that the cam groves were above C/L. I do not know if there is any way to verify that the intermediary sprocket is off without having the entired upper and lower covers off. I will recheck tonight if there is any other view from the top to confirm.

    18. 03-11-2009 02:16 PM #393
      If you did that BEFORE you took the upper chain off, then my guess is it's correct. The cams being a little off is probably due to chain stretch.


      Modified by VgRt6 at 2:17 PM 3-11-2009

    19. 03-12-2009 01:02 PM #394
      Do you know if the upper chain can jump a tooth on the intermediary sprocket if the side casing is still in place. I tried this last night to see if it was possible. I removed the chain from the cam sprockets and was unable to move it one link on the intermediary. I did this to see if this would have affected the timing. Because I had the cam jump a couple of teeth I assumed it could have also jumped on the intermediary.

    20. 03-12-2009 01:45 PM #395
      It's possible I guess. If the cams are that close though, then it's probably not worth worrying about. You likely wouldn't notice a thing if you fixed it to be perfect.

    21. 03-12-2009 03:17 PM #396
      Thanks for your help and effort in making this one timeless post!

    22. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      03-15-2009 08:30 PM #397
      my rear seal had a spring in it.... anyways when i got the llower and upper timing chain covers back on i noticed the spring is sticking out over the crank can i just rip that spring out or is it a must have thing?
      Race it, Break it, Fix it, Repeat.

    23. 03-15-2009 08:48 PM #398
      The spring is critical for there being no leak from the seal. It's there to apply pressure to keep the seal against the crank.
      What do you mean that the spring is "sticking out over the crank"? Can you post a picture?

    24. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      03-15-2009 08:56 PM #399

      Goes to show pay attention to every detail because nobody like to backtrack! i messed up leaving the flywheel bolts in the crank i assume. The lower timing chain cover can come off by itself correct? i didnt see a reason it wouldnt but i may be wrong.


      Modified by Deezy at 8:06 PM 3-15-2009
      Race it, Break it, Fix it, Repeat.

    25. 03-16-2009 07:51 PM #400
      Can anyone help me out?
      I seem to have some extra slack on the upper chain guide side near the intermediate gear.
      I made sure that the chain was tight across the cam sprockets and then made sure it was tight going down the chain guide and all the slack was on the tensioner side. i
      put the tension bolt in and spun the engine twice to check my work everything lines up but there still is some extra slack.

      have any ideas why?
      edit: its all new chains and guides with the updated bolt and rail


      Modified by Rick08 at 4:53 PM 3-16-2009

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