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    Thread: FAQ - Carbs

    1. Member RaceJetta's Avatar
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      04-05-2004 09:40 PM #26
      I use the intank transfer pump on my Mk2 racecar. With a pressure regulator, it provides more than enough fuel and pressure.

    2. Member FastLapRSII's Avatar
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      04-06-2004 12:44 AM #27
      Seems like a high volume/low pressure pump to me.
      Glad to hear someone has tried this!

    3. Member the12for12's Avatar
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      04-06-2004 06:13 AM #28
      Quote, originally posted by RaceJetta »
      I use the intank transfer pump on my Mk2 racecar. With a pressure regulator, it provides more than enough fuel and pressure.

      [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    4. Member glibobbo21's Avatar
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      04-06-2004 06:21 PM #29
      this is great

    5. Member
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      05-04-2004 08:31 PM #30
      What do the terms DCOE and IDF mean, when talking about Webers?

    6. Member
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      05-07-2004 09:59 AM #31
      can i use the bosch fuel pump and accumulator with carbs? i have a 2.0 liter 16 valve motor going in a 79 rabbit with motronic but might switch to carbs. both the accumulator and fuel pump are brand new. thanks

    7. 05-08-2004 11:41 AM #32
      Anyone know where I can get parts for dellorto's? Specifically for 45 DHLA? TIA.

    8. Member the12for12's Avatar
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      05-10-2004 08:31 AM #33
      search Ebay

    9. Banned Rabbit 16v's Avatar
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      05-16-2004 06:36 PM #34
      Quote, originally posted by candm »
      can i use the bosch fuel pump and accumulator with carbs? i have a 2.0 liter 16 valve motor going in a 79 rabbit with motronic but might switch to carbs. both the accumulator and fuel pump are brand new. thanks

      Absolutely not. You will blow out all the seals and gaskets from the carbs. The FI pump operates around 80 psi. Carbs use between 4 and 7 psi . Anything higher is damaging to the carbs and definitely a fire hazard.

    10. Member
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      05-25-2004 02:29 AM #35
      Quote, originally posted by noypiesky »
      Anyone know where I can get parts for dellorto's? Specifically for 45 DHLA? TIA.

      If you haven't tried CB Performance they have a lots of Dell parts. Alternetely check out http://www.dellorto.co.uk I ordered my chokes from them and they showed up in like 4 days. I was really impressed.
      '83 GTI 2L Dell 40's (crashed)
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    11. 10-05-2004 11:30 PM #36
      Sorry about that, I've had some **** going on lately that forced me to give in to my brother's demands to trade him my Rabbit for his 92 GTI. Since I've done this and won't have any money in the near future because of medical bills, I will be unable to undertake any big projects.
      Oh well, maybe my brother will come by and ask the same question and you'll at him.


      Modified by sirdUbsalot at 5:03 AM 11-16-2004

    12. Banned Rabbit 16v's Avatar
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      10-16-2004 05:51 PM #37
      We will first need you to address how much money you have for this venture and what you intend to accomplish.

    13. Member a1maker's Avatar
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      10-30-2004 04:26 AM #38



      Modified by a1maker at 9:28 AM 10-30-2004

    14. Member a1maker's Avatar
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      10-30-2004 04:28 AM #39

    15. 11-15-2004 04:23 PM #40
      Quote, originally posted by the12for12 »
      A.IGNITION
      However, the MSD has a nice built in feature that is not found while reading the instruction manual. By reversing the magnetic leads, the MSD can give you a nice timing advance curve. You simply set the ignition at you want at idle (stock is around 10-15 degrees BTDC). As you blimp the throttle, you will find that the timing jumps to around 20-35 degrees BTDC. ,

      I found this in a search, and I thought I would comment.
      I don't know for sure what is going on inside the MSD box to cause this, but I have a guess. If my guess is right, this probably isn't the best idea for controlling advance.
      As the trigger wheel aproaches the sensor, a positive voltage is generated. As the trigger nears the point where it is closest to the sensor, the voltage rapidly drops and goes negative. (This is the event you want to capture) As the wheel moves away from the sensor, the negative voltage increases as it tends toward the steady state of about 0V.
      If you switch the wires, then you get a voltage response that goes negative, jumps positive, then settles to zero. The MSD unit is probably triggered by a negative going zero crossing. If you have it connected correctly, this corresponds to the point where the trigger wheel is closest. This part of the voltage output curve is very steep and doesn't vary much with RPM -- so the output from the detection circuit is pretty stable.
      Switching the wires means that the detection circuit will *not* trigger on the nice crisp transition because it will be a "positive going" transition (starts negative, and goes positive). Instead the circuit will trigger sometime later as the voltage settles back down to near zero. Unfortunately this part of the curve both varies with RPM and isn't very steep. The "varies with RPM" part is what makes it advance the timing. The fact that it isn't a steep curve means that slight variations (including the temperature of the electronics, external "noise", etc.) can have a significant effect on when the circuit will trigger.
      This may be a bit far afield for a carb FAQ, but I thought I would add it. Keep in mind that this is again just my guess based on my understanding of how the ignition system works. And while I'm pretty confident that switching the polarity of the wires is *not* a standard operating mode -- if it works, and it's consistent..go for it. Just be aware of potential problems (I would expect inconsistent advance values)
      -Steve

    16. Member RaceJetta's Avatar
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      11-16-2004 09:52 AM #41
      First off, if you have a fixed dizzy, you can't advance the timing from the MSD. First off, measuring timing with a timing light is near impossible with an MSD because of the multi-spark to measure the static timing at idle. With a fixed dizzy, I just set my timing above 4k rpm where the multi-spark function of the MSD box doesn't occur. The multispark feature of the box is only below 3000 or something IIRC. I'm not quite sure what is being seen to make the statement that the MSD actually provides a timing curve.

    17. 12-11-2004 11:57 AM #42
      alrite folks would you please be able to give a bit of info on pierburg 2e2,s as mine is playing up. My car is a golf mk2 1.6 driver and i would like to know if a weber 32/34 dmtl is a direct replacement. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanx in advance

    18. 02-15-2005 06:19 PM #43
      Any idea if you can feed this pump with the stock vw CisE transfer pump in the tank, or do you remove it and run the Carter solo? The carter 4070 puts out 5 Psi. Isn't that to much for Webers?
      Thanks.

    19. Member RaceJetta's Avatar
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      02-15-2005 08:22 PM #44
      Yes, the Mk2 in tank transfer pump can provide enough pressure and volume to run a car on dual weber dcoe 45 or mikuni phh 44s. Been there done it. Also used a fuel pressure regulator.

    20. 06-23-2005 11:35 AM #45
      OK OK I'm stumped about the whole MSD thing!!!!!!!! I need help bad!!!!!!!!!!!, I have the MSD 6 box but how do I wire it to the distributor If somebody could give me a diagram on how to do this I would appreciate it

    21. Member RaceJetta's Avatar
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      06-23-2005 11:46 AM #46
      MSD wiring diagram with OEM ignitor.

    22. 06-23-2005 12:19 PM #47
      Ignition control unit? you mean the stock computer on the golf??? I seem to be missing that..........

    23. 06-23-2005 12:21 PM #48
      I have ripped all of the wires out of the car because I have switched over to the carbs so all I have is the distributor, the MSD, the coil, and a battery,........This setup wont work? what else do I need? I am no electrician

    24. Member RaceJetta's Avatar
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      06-23-2005 12:45 PM #49
      That's the ignitor. That little black thing right under the rain tray on the driver's side.

    25. Member RaceJetta's Avatar
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      06-23-2005 01:06 PM #50
      That's the ignitor. That little black thing right under the rain tray on the driver's side.
      Wire the dizzy to the ignitor, then wire in the MSD between the ignitor and the coil. You need the ignitor because the MSD cannot trigger off the OEM hall sender in the dizzy. Then you will likely need a MSD 8980 timing computer to give your car some low rpm retard. Set the mechanical timing to 30-32 deg BTDC, and then the MSD 8980 will retard it 20 degrees at idle so that it starts and runs easier.
      Good luck.

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