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    Thread: FAQ - Carbs

    1. 06-23-2005 10:52 PM #51
      OK,.... I tried the diagram over and over, not missing a thing and still NO SPARK!!!!! If I get rid of the MSD and just wire the ignition module, coil, and distributor, will that work??? and how do I do it? This seemed like it would be simple but still no spark!!! There must be a way!

    2. 09-24-2005 01:30 AM #52
      Back to the FAQ Is there a good source to buy a Carter 4070 pump? I can't seem to find one around here. Also I need to buy parts for my DHLA's, maybe someone could post up some links for good sources for Weber and Dellorto carb parts. Thanks, lots of good info here. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]


      Modified by Flintstone at 9:04 PM 10-31-2005

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      10-31-2005 11:14 PM #53
      I am very new to carbs. I have a 92 jetta 1.8 digifant. I want to put in a 2.0 with weber 40s that I have. so the way I understand this is that I dont use the fuel pump that is underneath the car on the passenger side. I just use the pre pump in the gas tank for fuel to the webers? Thanks for any help
      http://www.4everkustoms.com
      Jason M. Diem
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    4. Banned Rabbit 16v's Avatar
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      11-01-2005 01:29 AM #54
      Use the pump in the tank and add a second pump. Low pressure high volume. Pierburg makes a nice unit for that application.

    5. 11-14-2005 10:51 AM #55
      Quote, originally posted by RabbitsKin »
      What do the terms DCOE and IDF mean, when talking about Webers?

      "Weber nomenclature is chaos"
      The prefix is the size of the throttle plate, a 40DCOE has a 40mm plate.
      The letters refe,r in italian, to the general type of the carburetor;
      DC means doppio corpo or double throat
      V/O means verticale/orizzontale vertical or horizontal respectively
      I (in IDA) seems to mean invertito or inverted, although there are no updraft webers, the IDA is a downdraft
      less consistent single letter designations:
      E Die-cast carburetor
      F Ford or Ferrari? application
      V Weber with a power valve
      A Water-operated automatic choke
      An example of an exception, the 40DCOE in later Alfa use is neither die-cast or equipped with an electric choke. The E indicates a trapezoid mounting bolt pattern instead of the rectangular one of the DCO.
      or
      There may be three, as well as two throats, in a Weber IDA, and there is no choke at all.
      Any number after the letters denotes a variation of the basic type, to date there are 10 known variations of the 45DCOE.


      Braden, Pat. Weber Carburetors. HPBooks, 1988

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      12-03-2005 01:44 PM #56
      So is there a list of what I'll need to do dual carbs on this?
      Car was 79 diesel rabbit
      Have 2L16V motor
      Have 84 GTi gas tank (Not sure if I can or cannot use it)

    7. 01-12-2006 05:43 PM #57
      you can get parts for dellortos at eurocarb uk online .

    8. Senior Member vdubspeed's Avatar
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      03-05-2006 02:40 PM #58
      I have some stuff around the shop and I'm trying to make a running vehicle out of it.
      engine - low mileage 1.7L
      carb - dellorto 40 drla downdraft.
      After reading the FAQ I gathered that I should stick to a factory ignition module/hall sensor distributor. But then I have the vacuum advance just always open. Will the advance still be okay?
      Also..are there any choke options available for the drla besides the gas pedal?
      I just ordered a carb rebuild kit and the dellorto techbook from cb peformance so I will probably answer some of these questions shortly.
      edit: 1 more question. I know the12for12 recommends having a carter p4070 electric fuel pump but will the stock mechanical fuel pump be adequate? I'm not looking for power...just to make it a driver.
      Thanks,
      Jason


      Modified by vdubspeed at 2:41 PM 3-5-2006
      Built > Bought
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    9. 03-07-2006 10:30 AM #59
      I have an '88 1.8 16v KR engine in my rocco, with ITB's (and CIS, i know...) and i still have the std ignition system. Hall-sensor, ignition box. I connected my vacuum advance to the inlet by 4 little plugs. I now have it running on 21 degrees timing, 44° max.
      If i set the timing to 8 or 10 degrees (as supposed) my engine wont start at cold.
      Anyone have a suggestion?

    10. Member Big CADDY's Avatar
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      05-03-2006 09:16 PM #60
      Nevermind.
      GOt the info myself:
      Pierce Manifold and Pierce's waterneck.
      Nice pieces. Great guys to do business with.


    11. Member vdubmike2's Avatar
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      07-10-2006 08:46 PM #61
      so i get rid of the factory pump under the passenger side then put the carter 4070 pump in its place and keep the in take transfer pump and fueling for carbs is done?
      Mike Davis Jr.

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    12. 07-10-2006 08:55 PM #62
      with a regulator and filter in for good measure you're all set!

    13. Member vdubmike2's Avatar
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      07-10-2006 09:04 PM #63
      i thought it says you dont use a regulator with the carter pump that it is set up already for the right psi?
      Mike Davis Jr.

      PM me for collision repair/custom paint and body work in the Midwest

    14. 07-10-2006 11:21 PM #64
      now that you say that, I'm not sure about the carter pump in particular, but I would use a regulator regardless

    15. Member Big CADDY's Avatar
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      07-11-2006 10:20 PM #65
      I don't have a regulator with my carter pump setup and it runs....... still fine tuning, but it runs.

      Edited post: i have since installed a Holly regulator and valve. made no difference.


      Modified by Big CADDY at 11:42 PM 11-10-2006

    16. 07-25-2006 01:40 PM #66
      Quote, originally posted by FastLapRSII »
      Seems like a high volume/low pressure pump to me.
      Glad to hear someone has tried this!

      yes. I've done it on my GTI. Low pressure/high volume is the way to go.

    17. 09-03-2006 05:29 PM #67
      hey guys i have a 83 16v swap with 45 dcoe's the problem is this i try to sync them and either im doing it wrong or im a dumbass? one carb sux 7 and the other 10 can some 1 tell me how 2 adjust them. oh yeah im running 180corrector, f2 e tubes 165 mains.
      1%er

    18. Member Big CADDY's Avatar
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      09-05-2006 08:13 AM #68
      Quote, originally posted by jaydubr »
      hey guys i have a 83 16v swap with 45 dcoe's the problem is this i try to sync them and either im doing it wrong or im a dumbass? one carb sux 7 and the other 10 can some 1 tell me how 2 adjust them. oh yeah im running 180corrector, f2 e tubes 165 mains.

      Any symtoms other then different air flow readings? missing, spitting?

      My 16v swap seems to pull more air on the left (facing the car) carb so I set the main idle speed screw all the way out then use the inspection holes to line up the right carb using the sync adjustment screw then adjust the main speed screw and go from there.

    19. 09-05-2006 10:33 PM #69
      pops outta exaust at about 3500 rpm .
      1%er

    20. 10-07-2006 11:32 AM #70
      Wiring the Factory tachometer
      You can pull off the tach output signal when using an MSD 6AL, depending on the year of the car and the function of the tach, wiring the output strait into the tach's source wire will work, like on older rabbits.
      For voltage driven tachs like mine for example, 92 GTI 16v CE2 cluster, MSD PN 8920 Tach Adapter wires in easy and works great.

    21. 10-07-2006 02:55 PM #71
      hey i have a golf mk 2 1.6 driver 1991! im looking at geting the most out of the engine and i have been told to go for a twin weber 45 carb! but i dont have a clue and i dont no if it will even fit! so does any one have any ideas? cheers gareth

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      10-17-2006 10:28 PM #72
      A MSD box will hook up to a magnetic pick up distributor, but what about the hall effect senders in VW distributors? Anyone able to do this without using the stock ECM or Ign. control unit?

    23. 10-17-2006 11:06 PM #73
      you need the ICM to boost the signal from the hall effect, it is an amplifier.

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      10-18-2006 08:27 PM #74
      Thanks for the info. I have a 91 and am trying to eliminate the Motronic harness and ECM. Do any years have ICM's that plug directly into the distributor? I want to keep it as simple as possible.

    25. 10-27-2006 12:17 AM #75
      buy this here($61): http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
      Quote, originally posted by the12for12 »
      We ONLY use the Carter Rotary pumps. They are High Volume (60-70 GPH) but only 4 psi. This is PERFECT for all Weber applications from a Single 32/36 DGV on a Truck, Jeep or Car to a Triple Sidedraft setup on a Road Race car making 300 HP...This pump DOES NOT and SHOULD NOT use a Pressure Regulator for any reason. That is why we use it....


      Carter 4070 Fuel pump with Mounting Bracket

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