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    Thread: FAQ - Carbs

    1. Member Big CADDY's Avatar
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      05-01-2008 10:36 AM #141
      well, three of the wires go to the Hal Sender on the distributor. One goes to the Ground, one goes to Hot and one is the signal for the coil. so you don't have to really "incorporate" anything everythihng plugs in or connects except for the signal wire that you wire in with a connector of your choice..

    2. 05-15-2008 02:36 AM #142
      I have a 16V MC carb project going right now. I posted a pic of the manifold in progress in the 8V thread. I welded the injector slots in my heads, I also did a gasket match while I was in there. My pendent on my CNC smoked, when the new one arrives, I will post more pics of my manifold.

    3. Member iceman2.0's Avatar
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      06-04-2008 11:24 PM #143
      Quote, originally posted by frankthewelder »
      I have a 16V MC carb project going right now. I posted a pic of the manifold in progress in the 8V thread. I welded the injector slots in my heads, I also did a gasket match while I was in there. My pendent on my CNC smoked, when the new one arrives, I will post more pics of my manifold.

      kool.

      He said I had a nifty little car. Oh, he did get me on not having a windshield washer reservoir..... luckly It only took me a minute to install it for a sticker. I brought it to a shop in Shelburne and the guy walked out of his office and said "No Way" just by looking at it
      Curbdawg

    4. Member iceman2.0's Avatar
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      06-16-2008 09:21 PM #144
      What about venting the gas tank?
      I was looking for a vented gas cap, do these exist?
      He said I had a nifty little car. Oh, he did get me on not having a windshield washer reservoir..... luckly It only took me a minute to install it for a sticker. I brought it to a shop in Shelburne and the guy walked out of his office and said "No Way" just by looking at it
      Curbdawg

    5. Member iceman2.0's Avatar
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      06-30-2008 11:49 AM #145
      Can we use the wiring diagram with out the timing control unit?
      Or is that necessary? My mech. told me that the facet stye pumps work fine, older carbed BMW's came with them from the factory?
      He said I had a nifty little car. Oh, he did get me on not having a windshield washer reservoir..... luckly It only took me a minute to install it for a sticker. I brought it to a shop in Shelburne and the guy walked out of his office and said "No Way" just by looking at it
      Curbdawg

    6. Member Big CADDY's Avatar
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      06-30-2008 01:26 PM #146
      you can use it without the timing computer, but you'll be stuck with a static setup. this will work, but once you start advanceing the timing, the harder it will be to start the engine. That's what is nice about the timing computer. it brings the timing back to about stock advance at idle.

    7. Member iceman2.0's Avatar
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      06-30-2008 04:03 PM #147
      What about the pump?

      And I just got RickRolled..nice

      He said I had a nifty little car. Oh, he did get me on not having a windshield washer reservoir..... luckly It only took me a minute to install it for a sticker. I brought it to a shop in Shelburne and the guy walked out of his office and said "No Way" just by looking at it
      Curbdawg

    8. Member Big CADDY's Avatar
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      06-30-2008 09:15 PM #148

      the facet pumps can work, but double check the pressue readings to not go crazy with fuel pressure. or too little

      the price of the facet pumps is about the same as a carter 4070 which is tried and true for the carb setups.


    9. Member SpoolinJetta18T's Avatar
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      07-25-2008 03:43 PM #149
      ok im ready to do the conversion i have the manifold and new webers 40 DCOEs i have the 4070 fuel pump gaskets and lines what else do i need to get this done this is going in a 8v.....

    10. 08-15-2008 01:26 PM #150
      i'm at the same stage, carbs, fuel pump. do we need to modify the ignition?

    11. Member JTiberiVR6's Avatar
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      08-15-2008 04:19 PM #151
      Just recommendations off the top of my head:

      Timing & spark control, slimline fan & radiator, oil breather, modified alternator setup for carb & manifold clearances.

      DCI VW | dt, at, lt <3 | The Celtic Football Club

    12. Member crazy16v's Avatar
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      08-15-2008 07:53 PM #152
      Question on fuel pump. with out the ecu i get no ground at the fuel pump realy. do i just ground to the chassis . willl it be on anytime the ignition is on?i mean the small pin on the relay. not sure if it 86 or 85?how can i get it to do like oe and run for alittle then wait to run when cranked?its getting closer.

    13. Member iceman2.0's Avatar
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      08-15-2008 10:39 PM #153
      Quote, originally posted by RaceJetta »
      That's the ignitor. That little black thing right under the rain tray on the driver's side.

      Wire the dizzy to the ignitor, then wire in the MSD between the ignitor and the coil. You need the ignitor because the MSD cannot trigger off the OEM hall sender in the dizzy. Then you will likely need a MSD 8980 timing computer to give your car some low rpm retard. Set the mechanical timing to 30-32 deg BTDC, and then the MSD 8980 will retard it 20 degrees at idle so that it starts and runs easier.

      Good luck.

      I have an unmarked flywheel how do i set my static timing to 30-32° ?
      i dont wanna put a degree wheeel on cuz the tranny and engine are one ..in the car.....

      He said I had a nifty little car. Oh, he did get me on not having a windshield washer reservoir..... luckly It only took me a minute to install it for a sticker. I brought it to a shop in Shelburne and the guy walked out of his office and said "No Way" just by looking at it
      Curbdawg


    14. Member crazy16v's Avatar
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      08-16-2008 12:50 PM #155
      Question. if i set the timing is set to 30-32degrees. how hard will it be to start in the morning?

    15. 08-16-2008 07:39 PM #156
      not at all, I run 35 degrees and it'll start in the dead of cold.

      You can crank the motor to TDC then remove the inspection hole cover and make a mark with white marker etc. Then you'll spot that using a light


    16. Member the12for12's Avatar
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      08-26-2008 05:54 AM #157

    17. Member SpoolinJetta18T's Avatar
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      09-02-2008 03:11 PM #158
      ok i have a 1983 rabbit with an 8v, the engine is fully build .40 over forged piston rods, 280 cam etc etc.....im about to do the weber conversion i have a set of NEW 40dcoe here are my Q's
      1. where can i get a cap or screw to plug the CIS injector.
      2. do i really need the MSD or can i get by w/o it for now.
      3. is it wise to cover the header with that exhaust cloth to keep the heat off the carbs?

    18. Member Dirty Jersey's Avatar
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      09-09-2008 02:09 PM #159
      Im looking for a carb setup for my 97 gti 2.0 8v does anyone have one thanks
      May you live long enough that the ordinary cars of your youth be considered vintage.

    19. Member Big CADDY's Avatar
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      09-22-2008 12:06 PM #160
      Here is a great site that really explains things about weber 45 carbs.

      every other site is a copy of what was posted in the begining of this list. which is fine but it doesn't really explain it clearly.

      http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/WeberDCOEinfo.htm


    20. Member 2mAn's Avatar
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      changes daily...
      10-07-2008 02:37 AM #161
      tons of good info here, lots of repeat questions though! just read before you post people! i just did, it doesnt take that long

      anyone know where to get a mikuni rebuild kit? ive got a set of mikuni 35s (i think) and i might use em soon. havent had any luck searching for em.


    21. Member SpoolinJetta18T's Avatar
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      10-21-2008 10:09 AM #162
      ok i got the car running however is running RICH. also what do i do with the return line from the CIS. and how do i adjust the floats? thank you guys


      Modified by SpoolinJetta18T at 12:21 AM 10-24-2008

    22. Member Big CADDY's Avatar
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      10-21-2008 11:15 AM #163
      round floats or square?
      Dual 40 webers right?

    23. Member Big CADDY's Avatar
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      10-21-2008 11:15 AM #164
      the return line you can just plug up on the tank and pull it out. That is if you are using a low pressure pump.

    24. Member SpoolinJetta18T's Avatar
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      10-23-2008 07:22 PM #165
      Quote, originally posted by Big CADDY »
      the return line you can just plug up on the tank and pull it out. That is if you are using a low pressure pump.

      yes im running a carter pump so ill plug it this weekend... as far as the floats i really dont know but they are 40dcoe webers


    25. Member Big CADDY's Avatar
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      10-24-2008 10:21 AM #166
      for 40s

      DCOE spec = 1.14 inch (29mm+4.5mm).

      If the depth is NOT correct, the top plate of the carburetor must be removed. Carefully bend the tab on the float assembly that touches the needle valve. Reassemble and test the float level as before.

      copied from:
      http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/tweakingdcoes.htm


    26. 11-05-2008 09:19 AM #167
      great info.
      Any pictures of some of your finished setups?
      Im running 45 webers on my 2l 16v.
      And am planning on "cleaning" up my engine bay. ideas as to mount fuel pump, msd ignition etc. etc. ??
      Also i plan on doing some internal work if not atleast head work. how mildly or majorly built are some of your motors? Dyno numbers??
      Thanks before hand guys everything is helpful

    27. Member Big CADDY's Avatar
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      11-05-2008 09:49 AM #168
      Esher has a pretty slick mouting area for the MSD stuff. He made a rack behind the glove box.

    28. Member SpoolinJetta18T's Avatar
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      11-06-2008 09:09 AM #169
      Quote, originally posted by RedRocketMk2 »
      great info.
      Any pictures of some of your finished setups?
      Im running 45 webers on my 2l 16v.
      And am planning on "cleaning" up my engine bay. ideas as to mount fuel pump, msd ignition etc. etc. ??
      Also i plan on doing some internal work if not atleast head work. how mildly or majorly built are some of your motors? Dyno numbers??
      Thanks before hand guys everything is helpful


      Heres mine and my Engine Specs:
      1.8Lt, bored .040
      82mm pistons
      Head shaved .010
      Block decked .025
      280 degree Schrick cam
      Hi-Rev valve springs
      Weber single bore throttle body
      Engine rebuilt at Ron's Parts at approximately 110,000 miles (RPIequipped.com)
      Engine blueprinted by Techtonics
      Battery removed from under hood, placed in enclosure behind passenger seat for better weight distribution
      Transmission and Clutch Assembly
      210mm Clutch


    29. Member Justin 123's Avatar
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      11-10-2008 09:35 AM #170
      How have you guys gone about wiring up your fuel pumps? I currently have Motronic which grounds the pump through the ecu, but I know older cars relay the fuel pump from the ignition coil and I'd like a setup like that rather than wiring up a switch or something.

      Also did you just wire the in-tank pump and the new low pressure pump in parallel?

      ALBANY, NY // www.roflwagens.com

    30. Member SpoolinJetta18T's Avatar
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      11-10-2008 09:48 AM #171
      i have mine wired up to come on when the car is turned on.

    31. Member Justin 123's Avatar
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      11-10-2008 11:55 AM #172
      What about when the key is in the start position? Can the pump prime?
      ALBANY, NY // www.roflwagens.com

    32. Member Big CADDY's Avatar
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      11-10-2008 12:02 PM #173
      Mine turns on as soon as I turn the key. I just ran a wire back to the pump and grounded it to the body.

      I also put an inline switch under the dash to turn it off if I wanted. It's handy to have that.


    33. Member Justin 123's Avatar
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      11-10-2008 12:30 PM #174
      So you just replaced the ground-to-ecu and straight up grounded it and it worked fine? Any diagrams? Thanks guys!
      ALBANY, NY // www.roflwagens.com

    34. Member SpoolinJetta18T's Avatar
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      11-10-2008 12:56 PM #175
      i don't have an ECU so i don't have to worry about it...lol

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