16v Digifant 1 FAQ

[130_R]

Should be pretty self explanitory, same rules apply as the general FAQ.

The Search Function is your friend, use this first before posting any question as the chances are 110% your question has been asked before!

General Info:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=777340

Motronic to Digifant info:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=937130

Injector Bucket info:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1303064

Modified by 130_R at 10:44 AM 5-1-2004

[blackbunny]

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=537957
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1278710

http://www.volkswagen.msk.ru/index.php?p=page09

Modified by blackbunny at 11:03 AM 4-20-2004

[kobidge]

digifant 1 wiring:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1141416

wiring up a 90amp alternator:
http://www.nwlink.com/~vdb/vw/....html

what's needed to install a bbm 16v fuel rail into an a1:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1365999

[blackbunny]

here is a diagram for keeping the ce1 in a rabbit

Quote »

Complete Idiot’s Guide to Swap Digifant 1 FROM ECU CONNECTOR TO RED/GRN STARTER 3 BLK/YEL PIN 87 RELAY RED/YEL (THICK) PIN 86 RELAY RED/YEL FUEL PUMP RELAY 1,2 GRN NEG. COIL RELAY PIN 30 12V POSITIVE 85 GROUND 86 IGN 12V / RED/YEL (THICK) / COIL + 87 BLK/YEL NOTES 1 16V Scirocco Fuel pump wire RED/YEL from knock box 2 Rabbit cut bottom wire on back of relay and install standard relay 3 Wire on solenoid, has 12V + when cranking engine

Modified by blackbunny at 8:30 AM 5-5-2004

[kobidge]

if keeping the CE1 fuse box when converting to digifant 1 injection, you will need to keep the following things from the CIS harness:

low pressure oil sender
high pressure oil sender
coolant temp sensor
oil temp sensor
lights (obviously)
radiator fan motor
fan switch
alternator plug

that's about it. if i'm missing anything, just let me know and i'll edit it.

[GTIRIDER]

Ok here is my probllem my car is idling poor and flutters on acceleration from idle. can you please help me

[GTibunny16v]

Did you set the idle screw? Have the key off and disconnect the ISV. Start the car and adjust the idle screw until you have a 950rpm idle. Turn the car off again and plug the ISV back in.

MAKE SURE YOU DONT UNPLUG THE ISV WITH THE KEY ON! This will fry the ECU.

What do you mean by "flutters"?

[GTIRIDER]

flutter as in putts and stuters like its missing

[golf198]

i need to know how to keep CE2 in my mk2 that is currently running Digi 2 i already have all my wiring.

[asinryan]

Quote, originally posted by GTIRIDER »

flutter as in putts and stuters like its missing

mine did that 2 for a while, one of my fuel lines to the fpr was leaking, check the lines for any leakage, what kind of fpr are you running?

[mrkrad]

I don't know if this is said. But buy a boost/vac gauge and AIR FUEL GAUGE puhleeze. It's $28 summitracing.com "summit air fuel gauge" and like $20-65 for a boost/vacuum gauge. You may boost someday, and its resale value is higher, but a cheap vacuum only (ehbay?) might work too.

It's important to know where your vacuum stands, especially at wot. If your at wot and have 0hg vacuum then start seeing it creep to say 3hg at 7000rpm, you need to know this to tune it. Some chips can be designed to nail fuel enrichment mode at say -5 to 0hg depending on your needs.

A vacuum increase at wot indicates an airflow problem (AKA straw, resitriction, loss of power. Ideal is 0hg at max RPM but its not very likely for many people).

The air fuel gauge explains alot. It can be pretty good for tuning n/a. Since full rich is like 13:1 and thats acceptable, but if you start running funny you're trained out (Always put then in eye-sight [gauge pillar]) to reduce potential eyes off the road.

Things to look out for:
1. Cycling air fuel during idle/cruise - healthy system no limp mode -good
1a. not cycling properly o2 system or CTS system or other issues - bad
1b. WOT enrichment, you nail the gas you want the air fuel to go rich (whatever you believe is safest, instantly, hesistations are usually matched with a lean burp of air fuel then going rich, possible programming needs to be modified to make this smoother).
2. Vacuum gauge. Too little vacuum or too much vacuum might indicate cam timing issues, or base timing issues. They should be addressed or compensated in the chip
3. Digifant-1 CALI (non G60 & G60) can be tuned. They are not desirable to uniqueness but due to california emissions requirements some 91-92 cars must have a this ecu setup. Nobody likes these ecu's but if its what you got, and you live in a place that requires that pretty check engine light and you can't figure out how to make a timer to fire it up on and off or your stuck with it all hope is not lost. Some people have a heart for these folks and will spend massive time to work with you.

It's a known fact that the 1.8 16V will take alot more timing than the 2.0 16V, maybe compression, maybe just smaller bore size. Even boosted the 1.8'ers take more timing than the 2.0. I guess its the stroke/TDC time or something magical beyond the scope of my lame math/physics skills so don't ask me anything more about this.

The stock g60 chip or Cali-digi-1 (non g60) will work, its timing maps were for 87 octane, it does however present a nice 6200rpm redline, but for baseline setup, to get her running and check the air fuel gauge. It will work fine.

The CO_POT is important. It is a massive fuel scaler (mostly enrichment mode) from 0kpa too 200kpa (1bar boost). Obviously if you are N/A you will find this device is a "dial a fuel" it has diminished effects during closed loop operations because the o2 sensor feedback system will targer 14.7:1 sweep but does have a HUGE affect during PE (fuel enrichment mode). Enough to smoke a boosted motor, its affect is Much larger on n/a motor. I didn't write this code but in theory it could be modified to act more linear. It was designed for the g60 motor for emissions, but has quite a punch.

The largest tuning issue you may find is that if your Particular motor cannot flow well, and pulls vacuum the digi-1 (g60 only) system does not understand this. It is impossible to pull vacuum at WOT with blower/turbo. It is very possible to do this all motor. This is where a stock chip can become dangerous, but fortunately the rpm limiter will keep you from doing serious damage. However its a VERY important thing to keep an eye on (hence the boost/vac gauge) when dialing in your car. The stock g60 chip is not programmed for n/a action, and in theory the map will be vastly incorrect on an n/a 16V motor. Since you can make say 165WHP at 0 to 3hg at 7200+ rpm, where as the G60 motor will make about 80bhp at 5500rpm (peak non boosted hp) at 0 to 3hg vacuum.

I'm still waiting for someone in atlanta to bring down a badass 16V 2.0 n/a or even 1.8 n/a. I'd like to spend some dyno/road time on it to squeeze out all there is. Then maybe re-juice her with the 100 octane pump and squeeze even more timing/af out.

So whenever someone decides to come down to atlanta, you pay for the dyno time, have a spare o2 bunghole , and we'll do the rest to see what you got. But don't bring a ***** car down. Cam's ported head, manifolds/hot exhaust yeah baby.

Jesse padilla made 163whp then like 170-something on some of his build outs. I'm not sure what he used, but thats quite a feat. Don't expect a stock motor to make that much, its all in the flow. Extra compression (smart decking of the head) and good gas, nice unrestrictive intake track, cams, yeah baby. Bring it on. I might ask for lunch or something but i'd love to squeeze all ya can out of your car.

no two cars will be alike. The digi-1 conversion is not necessarily meant for a stock motor. CIS-Motronic is probably pretty good in that respect. But having a massive 4" intake pipe to a big intake mani/ported TB and cold air (ram?) i bet you'd have a beast on your hands.

Remember AIR FUEL GAUGE #1, boost Vacuum gauge #2, Pillar mounts (safety). Don't cry when somethings running wrong and you can't say "my air fuel is leaning out every time i hit the gas, and never pegging enrichment mode" The $28 gauge question is the first thing i'm gonna ask ya

[Disco_Potato]

Quote, originally posted by mrkrad »

II'm still waiting for someone in atlanta to bring down a badass 16V 2.0 n/a or even 1.8 n/a. I'd like to spend some dyno/road time on it to squeeze out all there is. Then maybe re-juice her with the 100 octane pump and squeeze even more timing/af out. So whenever someone decides to come down to atlanta, you pay for the dyno time, have a spare o2 bunghole , and we'll do the rest to see what you got. But don't bring a ***** car down. Cam's ported head, manifolds/hot exhaust yeah baby.

Lets setup a weekend, the car exists. Ported head and Schrick 276's go on Saturday.

[Action Jackson]

Quote, originally posted by mrkrad »

The CO_POT is important. It is a massive fuel scaler (mostly enrichment mode) from 0kpa too 200kpa (1bar boost).

OK, I'm confused on this... is the CO_POT the same as the MAP sensor? What does CO_POT stand for? If its not the MAP sensor, then what the what between the MAP and CO_POT?

Thanks

[mrkrad]

C.arbon monOxide Potentiometer

it also is an IAT (or AIT). Intake Air Temp sensor.

Speed density: P=vt ? (my physics sux)

[Action Jackson]

Quote, originally posted by mrkrad »

C.arbon monOxide Potentiometer it also is an IAT (or AIT). Intake Air Temp sensor. Speed density: P=vt ? (my physics sux)

So.. I'm sorry I'm not reading between your lines here. You've explained the acronym (Thanks! ) but is this also then the sensor used for the air preasure readings, or is there another sensor for that?

I'm guessing that the physics equation is answering my question. Preasure (P) is eaqual to velocity (v) times temperatuer (t) --- P=vt... I'm streching here aren't I. snicker.. I thought P=vt is Power = velocity* time

[mrkrad]

mass of air is defined by pressure and temperature (speed density)

the sensor read Temperature.
hence why its in the path of air intake.

The ecu has the pressure sensor built into it. hence the nipple on on the ecu.

[Action Jackson]

I see oh wise one...

Cool! Thanks

[QcGTI]

Can someone talk a little bit more to what happen to the fuel evaporation system when we switch to DIGI-1 on a 16v.

[mrkrad]

i dunno but i chucked the evap (carbon canister) on my g60 got two going in the garbage shortly. What are you talking bout?

[Vwnitrous16v]

who makes an N/a chip for a 16v ?sns?

[golf198]

anyone have more info on wiring my digi 1 harness in my digi 2 car?

[QcGTI]

what is the ideal Ohm setting on the CO-POT for a N/A application? Stock is 500!

[asinryan]

sns tuning makes a n/a chip for digi1....they make it custom...

also check the sns tuning website for the diagram to make your digi2 a digi1..

[QcGTI]

It will be a REAL digi-1 with the ECU and harness from a passat G-60 syncro, I even have the ECU to fuse box relay, green injectors (stock) and CO-POT. The only major part missing is the fuel rail from bahn brenner and the CO-POT adapter! I cant wait to see how this will work!

[IheartSHARDS]

I have CE and want to swap in CE2 so the digi harness will plug right in. anyone have a site that shows what I need to do to swap it in, or can give me directions?

[the4ork]

hey guys, my digi 1 harness came with a big fat relay built into it. the wires connecting to the relay are a fat red/black, black, grey/black, red/yellow, red/white... none of these wires seem to connect to the ecu, and the red/white wire connects to a brown 2-pin plug.

this relay is why i have been so confused this whole time, i've been thinking its the ecu relay

[the4ork]

i have a pic of the relay if u need 1.

and 1 more q, where should i get vacum/pres for the ecu? compressor housing, tb, intake manifold?

[kobidge]

Quote, originally posted by the4ork »

and 1 more q, where should i get vacum/pres for the ecu? compressor housing, tb, intake manifold?

you want the vacuum line for the ECU to tap into the plenum on the intake manifold. you will have to have the plenum tapped w/ a vacuum line fitting so you can get it on there. some have extra fittings on the back, and some don't, so it depends on what kind of manifold you picked up.

if you dump your carbon canister, you should really only have 3 vacuum lines. FPR to TB, ECU to IM, and vacuum booster to IM.

[the4ork]

i came up with a diagram for my 86 cis-e car... here it is

LMK if this is right?

[golf198]

cant even read that

[the4ork]

i can email it to you so you can tell me if its right or not

[kobidge]

you only need the 8v alternator pulley if you are planning on keeping the alternator in it's stock position.

if you move it down to where the a/c compressor used to sit, you can keep the 16v pulley, it should line up no problem.

[mrkrad]

the g60 ecu (non-obd) uses a common +5V/WOT/IDLE. When idle or wot switch is depressed, the +5V common signal is returned back down the WOT and/or IDLE wire. Grounding the +5V = dead ecu.

It is possible to be at wot and idle, confuses the ecu.

If idle has the +5V over 2500rpm the injectors will cut to prevent runaway motor.

If wot is always +5V the car will not pass emissions, and will be stumbly idle and poor cold start.

Really simple setup imo

[89 gli]

When switching from CIS-E to DIGI-1, is it neccessary to replace the throttle body?

What to do with all the extra vaccum hoses connected to the fuel distributor?

How does the ecu monitor the amount of air being forced into the engine (no MAF like on DIGI-2)?

[ValveCoverGasket]

im partway through my digi 1 swap and ive noticed that one of the biggest hurtles is getting the old wiring out of the car if you can get that done easily and feel comfortable with it, the rest is relatively simple.