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Thread: 16v Digifant 1 FAQ

  1. 09-29-2005 05:02 PM #106
    any good aftermarket will work as long as its designed for fuel injection and can handle the psi your pump puts out.
    i like the aeromotive units from http://www.summitracing.com for about $130 or less.

  2. Member nitrous16v's Avatar
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    09-30-2005 05:11 PM #107
    i just spoke with AMS advanced motorsport solutions and they still offer digi chip/ecu upgrades , rev limit is increased to 7000rpms and on the dyno they gained 11hp in the mid range and 8 hp peak. the dyno chart shows 93hp/105 ft/lbs tq stock and 102hp and 108ft/lbs tq with AMS chip/ecu upgrade. you need to send your ecu to them. application are
    1987 1/2 to 1992 49state golf/jetta
    1987 1/2 to 1990 california golf/jetta
    1990-1992 cabrio
    their contact info is.
    AMS
    1-310-763-8000
    http://www.amspower.com
    should work with 16v conversions

  3. Member OldSkoolDubbin's Avatar
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    10-01-2005 01:20 AM #108
    Quote, originally posted by nitrous16v »
    i just spoke with AMS advanced motorsport solutions and they still offer digi chip/ecu upgrades , rev limit is increased to 7000rpms and on the dyno they gained 11hp in the mid range and 8 hp peak. the dyno chart shows 93hp/105 ft/lbs tq stock and 102hp and 108ft/lbs tq with AMS chip/ecu upgrade. you need to send your ecu to them. application are
    1987 1/2 to 1992 49state golf/jetta
    1987 1/2 to 1990 california golf/jetta
    1990-1992 cabrio
    their contact info is.
    AMS
    1-310-763-8000
    http://www.amspower.com
    should work with 16v conversions

    that is for digi 2


  4. Member KingofNod's Avatar
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    10-10-2005 07:12 PM #109
    Quote, originally posted by E60 »
    doubtful. Your co-pot or your timing is prob. off... All of your gear in good shape?

    Ignition timing? Pretty sure mechanical timing is dead on, or I can't imagine the car would run nearly as well as it does.


  5. 10-14-2005 04:56 AM #110
    Quote, originally posted by KingofNod »

    Ignition timing? Pretty sure mechanical timing is dead on, or I can't imagine the car would run nearly as well as it does.

    yes, your ignition timing. hell check the cam timing while your at it...


  6. Member KingofNod's Avatar
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    10-16-2005 02:14 PM #111
    I spent plenty of time setting the cam timing. If its not dead on now, it never will be. I'll borrow a timing light, I gotta feeling its the ignition timing , as I never really set it with a light since I rebuilt the head.

  7. Member KingofNod's Avatar
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    10-25-2005 09:37 PM #112
    Tried NGP? Maybe BBM? SNS chip works fine though.

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    11-09-2005 11:38 PM #113
    Hey,
    I am trying to figure out how to put Digi 1 on a 16v scirocco. I have a G60 with all the necessary parts, but I need a step by step (with pic.s if possible). Can you help me? Please send any info to scirocco858488@yahoo.com

  9. 11-12-2005 05:23 PM #114
    VW CE2 fusebox pinouts -- gathered from a digifant 1 diagram

    Connector F

    F1 Red/Blk - starter – circuit 50
    F2 ? blank ?
    F3 blue - alternator exciter -- was in another harness so I cut
    F4 Brown -- fuel after run
    F5 Red/Grn—ECU #1
    F6 Bk/R -- back up light
    F7 bk/bl back up light
    F8 brown -- crankcase breather (cut)
    F9 color? Digifant control unit relay
    F10

    G1
    1
    2 br/w outside air temp
    3 R/Y ECU circuit 3
    4 Blk Coil #15
    5 Br/Wh tranny ground
    6.
    7. blk/wht ECU #23
    8. R/W o2 heater
    9. ?
    10. bk/tlw ECU #14 / ISV
    11.
    12. Red/Blk Coil #1

    G2
    1 g/bk oil temp
    2 w/r outside air temp
    3 y/r coolant temp
    4 blk fuel after run
    5 track 47
    6 track 44
    7 color? Internal track 44
    8 color? Track 61
    9 color? Fuel relay? Track #51
    10 Y oil psi sender 1.8bar
    11 bl/bk .3bar oil psi
    12 ?



  10. 11-17-2005 05:02 PM #115
    can you use a digifant 2 throttle body and sensors with digifant 1? is it just a closed throttle and opened throttle switch?
    I am moving from digi2 to digi1, i got my stuff yesterday

  11. 11-18-2005 07:14 PM #116
    im pretty sure its just the IPS and WOT switches like on the Digi-II
    i could look 4 u Sunday cos i got a G60 motor out in the shed...

    people that go aftermarket management use the Passat or G60 auto TB's with the TPS setup.


  12. 11-18-2005 07:19 PM #117
    OK, heres my Q...

    I'm building a NA 2.0-16v to go into my GLI and am switching to Digi-1 at the same time.
    The motor is pretty drastically modded and will be running dual 58mm TB and getting a 50 shot of NO2.

    I am looking for stock HP of around 200, and i know that the CIS-E fuel pump is said to be good for 400HP.... all that said, I plan to get rid of the out of tank pump and put in a higher flow/psi in-tank one.
    What LPH does a stock VW CIS-E run? what LPH does it take to push 200+ a 50 shot??


  13. Member silvervwbeetle's Avatar
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    11-21-2005 09:29 PM #118
    i have a 91 8v jetta from california, i am told it has digi 1. i am going to put a 16v in it, has anyone figured out this digi 1 system with a 16v and if so what did you do? do i just need a fuel rail and use all the 8v wiring and sensors?

  14. Member vwpat's Avatar
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    11-22-2005 06:54 AM #119
    Quote, originally posted by silvervwbeetle »
    i have a 91 8v jetta from california, i am told it has digi 1. i am going to put a 16v in it, has anyone figured out this digi 1 system with a 16v and if so what did you do? do i just need a fuel rail and use all the 8v wiring and sensors?
    CA digi I is more like digi II but with diagnostics. The digi II procedure would be better for you.

  15. Member silvervwbeetle's Avatar
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    11-23-2005 06:03 PM #120
    thanks for the help, thats what i figured

  16. Member kda33's Avatar
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    11-26-2005 10:16 PM #121
    Ok I'm interested in doing this swap, however in an earlier post there was a mention of a BMW mass air flow can someone shed some light?

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    11-26-2005 10:31 PM #122
    I'm part way through the digi 1 swap but have a question on where to route the hose thats on the metal pipe since there no additional connector on the flange that holds the blue sensor.One end goes to the heater core and the other to the head. Do i block off that metal pipe? or what other option is there? Here's a pic. Thanks for your time.

  18. 11-26-2005 11:14 PM #123
    Quote, originally posted by kda33 »
    Ok I'm interested in doing this swap, however in an earlier post there was a mention of a BMW mass air flow can someone shed some light?

    This is used with a Digifant II application, digifant I doesnt use a Mass air flow sensor.
    There is a full thread devoted to DigifantII i suggest checking that out to see more info on the BMW MAF


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    11-28-2005 12:32 AM #124
    Who's done the digi 1 16v swap and can chime in on this one?

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    11-30-2005 03:14 PM #125
    I've figured it out, I guess you can just cap off a coolant pipe, they sell plugs for them if you have a extra outlet you dont need

  21. 11-30-2005 04:53 PM #126
    we did that on a GLI with a cap from Advanced Auto. It didn't last 3 months before cracking and needing replaced so make sure you get some quality ones when you do - and throw a spare in the glove box just in case.

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    11-30-2005 07:10 PM #127
    Thanks for the heads up on that, i'm not sure why some of the 16v had 2 outlets and others just 1

  23. 12-27-2005 10:36 PM #128
    My advice, since i have a 2.016v df1 in my rabbit is to back the throttle screw out, sure it idels at 2000k once its warmed up, but when its cold it idells between 1000k and 1500k, might have to fiddle with the pettel a bit at first but once its idleing it stays.

  24. 12-27-2005 10:41 PM #129
    CA digi 1 is a self adapting ecu where digi 2 is not, that is what i have in my rabbit. 2.0l 16v. Love every minuet of it. I even have a cone filter on it. Found an adapter plat at auto zone for 15 dollars, hooked it up to flaper box with out plastic box, made a custom braket and thats all she wrote. I'm curitly trying to figure out how to push the revlimiter back in the programing to 9k because of the fact that my car hits the rev limiter fast and pushes hard. the limiter is at 6 1/2 due to a perfomance chip my friend had and copyed and burn to a new chip for me. But in do time i will lern how to reprogram the ecu and start selling them.

  25. 12-27-2005 10:41 PM #130
    almost sounds like thats a candidate for a solenoid actuated idle screw - out for starting and back in for driving.... isn't that what the ISV is supposed to do? Maybe it just needs a restrictor to reduce the airflow? I bet it can be made to work once we figure out WHY the ISV doesnt work...
    After all Digi-1 has one from factory and it works...

  26. 12-27-2005 10:44 PM #131
    oh - a CA Digi-1....thats not the same as the G60 Digi-1, its just a Digi-2....with polution control crap

  27. Senior Member Muffler Bearing's Avatar
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    01-10-2006 06:53 PM #132
    would the co-pot function properly if it were... say... in an itb manifold? or would it be better to have an airbox and mount the co-pot there?

    but then, would having the itb's draw from one plenum kill the advantage that itb's have over a single throttle?

    -j

    A Rabbit is not to be wasted on the tentative or weak. Only the worthy are invited, and then only at your own risk. If you have even a modicum of hesitation, DO NOT buy one of these cars. Instead, leave it for a worthy soul who has already matriculated to the sublime ecstasy of what those in the know refer to as a "MK1"
    OLDSKOOLVW.COM Custom MK1 parts.

  28. 01-11-2006 02:10 AM #133
    Quote, originally posted by Muffler Bearing »
    would the co-pot function properly if it were... say... in an itb manifold? or would it be better to have an airbox and mount the co-pot there?

    but then, would having the itb's draw from one plenum kill the advantage that itb's have over a single throttle?

    -j

    I dont think there would be enough vacuum @ the itbs to measure map. Plus ITB's pulse the air in, it doesn't just pour in. You would need to come up with a reliable source of vacuum. Also, programming this setup would have to been practically done in Atlanta on the SNS dyno with jwatts and mrkrad programming your set-up.


  29. Member KingofNod's Avatar
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    01-26-2006 01:07 PM #134
    Wondering if anyone with an SNS chip is also having the warm start up issue, or if anyone else with the Digifant I swap has this issue. Upon a warm start, the car will run fine for a few seconds, then start bogging and backfiring, shooting black smoke out the back (bascially undrivable) for about 30 seconds, or until you rev the piss out of it. Then it runs fine. Any ideas?

  30. 01-26-2006 03:10 PM #135
    my chipped MOtronic does the same thing - it was the o2 sensor - when it switches from open loop start-up/cold mode to closed loop/warm running mode it starts looking at the o2 sensor values.

  31. Senior Member Muffler Bearing's Avatar
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    01-26-2006 09:12 PM #136
    Quote, originally posted by KingofNod »
    Wondering if anyone with an SNS chip is also having the warm start up issue, or if anyone else with the Digifant I swap has this issue. Upon a warm start, the car will run fine for a few seconds, then start bogging and backfiring, shooting black smoke out the back (bascially undrivable) for about 30 seconds, or until you rev the piss out of it. Then it runs fine. Any ideas?

    i had a stage 4 g60 that did something similar to that but the hesitation would start as soon as i started it up warm or cold. turned out my problem was a faulty ground in the o2 sensor/guage wiring.

    -j

    A Rabbit is not to be wasted on the tentative or weak. Only the worthy are invited, and then only at your own risk. If you have even a modicum of hesitation, DO NOT buy one of these cars. Instead, leave it for a worthy soul who has already matriculated to the sublime ecstasy of what those in the know refer to as a "MK1"
    OLDSKOOLVW.COM Custom MK1 parts.

  32. 01-26-2006 10:31 PM #137
    Quote, originally posted by Muffler Bearing »

    i had a stage 4 g60 that did something similar to that but the hesitation would start as soon as i started it up warm or cold. turned out my problem was a faulty ground in the o2 sensor/guage wiring.

    -j

    the o2 is def the first thing to check, you can use a 94 ford escort 3 wire one for >$30 if you can splice wires.


  33. Member vee_dubb_gti's Avatar
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    01-31-2006 07:32 PM #138
    Quote, originally posted by mrkrad »
    no doubt ram air works, its not uncommon to see 2-5% gain in hp at 100mph+

    you'd need to localize the best pressure point for ram air and haul ballz to use it. If you pick a poor design it might take 140mph to see actual gains.

    keeping the water out is important too, gotta look at the current ram air implementations lately and see how they actually work, its not as simple as ramming air into a filter

    Ram air dosn't exist.

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  34. Member KingofNod's Avatar
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    01-31-2006 07:36 PM #139
    My 02 sensor is brand new, but I'll definatly check out the ground wire. I'm pretty sure I routed mine back to the battery ground, because the bolt on the motor mount had snapped off, so there was nowhere locally to mount the ground. Maybe I'll try it again somewhere closer to the sensor.

  35. Member vee_dubb_gti's Avatar
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    01-31-2006 07:42 PM #140
    sounds like its in open loop and dumping fuel in like its cold.
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