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    Thread: OEM Keyless for B4: Clarion or Hella?

    1. 04-24-2004 08:39 PM #1
      I am trying to figure this whole thing out.... do I need to have Hella modules and remote(s), or will clarion work just as well? I know I need the matching FCC ID numbers and brands (from remote to transmitter) but will either brand name from a 98-99 golf or jetta with a banjo-style remote work? Thanks.

    2. 04-26-2004 03:28 AM #2
      There was an alarm for B4's but almost none had it (especially in the beginning). Here's the information I have on the original part:
      Original (1995-1997)
      (1) remote: (about $15-20 online or on eBay, search by FCC id#, or "code alarm" who made it)
      a. Part number: I DON'T KNOW!
      b. FCC id #: GOH-MM6-101890 (DOC:1409 K791)
      c. Two buttons (arm/disarm)
      (2) Module –
      a. Part number: 357 953 233B
      Newer (1998+)
      (1) remote: (about $33 from dealer, or between $13-25 on ebay)
      a. Part number: 1EM 937 047A
      b. FCC id #: M3GHU01WT (It also says Clarion on the back)
      c. Three buttons (lock, unlock, trunk)
      (2) Module
      a. Part number: White module, P/N 1HM 937 045M or 1HM 937 045Q (045Q more expensive, don’t know why, there was also a model that ended in 045L, less common and black in color while newer ones are white, also 1HM 937 043 M is supposed to work, though this is an older unit it seems, but still okay to use)
      b. FCC id #: M3GHU01R
      *hella units: AVIOD THEM!
      FCC id #: NBG730956T – don’t work for these alarm/keyless modules!!!
      To program the remotes:
      1. Put your spare key into the ignition and turn to the ON position, DONT start the car.
      2. Close door. In the drivers side, turn the key to the left (unlock position) and hold it (for 8-10 seconds).
      3. Alarm horn will beep 3 times. Let go of the key so it sits in the lock.
      4. With each of the remotes, separately press the unlock button. Each button will cause the alarm horn to beep.
      5. Turn the key to the left again and hold until the alarm horn beeps three times.
      6. Done
      Notes:
      (1) It looks like 1HM937045Q replaces 1HM937043B which only worked on a different line of cars (VIN 1H-W-000 001 and on).
      (2) Sometimes people blow the Cig lighter, dome light, etc fuse when installing with battery connected (marked “(15)”, $2.69 for 8 of them at Kragen).
      (3) When the FCC id ends in T its “transmitter” and in R it’s “receiver”
      I got this information from:
      http://matndahat.dhs.org/Jetta/RKE.htm <--
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=763940
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...98155
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...78115
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...27926
      Let me know if I'm missing anything or if there's anything else someone considering this upgrade whould know.

      Another thread of interest in case you have a "delay" between pressing "lock" and the doors locking (though the alarm will "arm" . . . e.g. the red light blink, doors don't lock for a minute)
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1286421
      Here's a possible solution:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=291829
      As far as the physical work of replacing it:
      (1) remove your headlight switch (just pops out, be gentle)
      (2) remove the dash cover to access and remove the vent and headlight switch housing . . . makes it a LOT easier, but if you have very small hands this is not necessary, but it will be faster if you remove it, trust me!)
      (3) remove the cover around the fuses, it also will come out easily, flexible and pretty durable, nice job VW engineers. This will giv you access to the alarm module from below, you'll find this helpful probably.
      (4) Unscrew you old (probably silver) module from the metal bracket. Also now might be a good time to unplug it from the harness if you can, if not, just do it after it's unscrewed (possibly easier).
      (5) Some have had problem with blowing a fuse by directly installing the new module so they suggest disconnecting the battery. I kept the battery connected and had no problems, but consider this you warning if you blow a fuse (I just kept an extra on handy, just in case).
      (6) Plug in your new keyless/alarm module (also called Advanced Keyless Alarm System - AKAS if I remember correctly) and return it to the bracket (it will be awkward to screw in because it attached in a different place, but you could also just use some double sided foam tape and place it higher than the other alarm was attached . . . this give you better remote range, which is pretty nice since the range is not too great to begin with . . . 15' or so depending).
      (7) Before putting everything back together, make sure it will work by programing your remote:
      To program the remotes:
      a. Put your spare key into the ignition and turn to the ON position, DONT start the car.
      b. Close door. In the drivers side, turn the key to the left (unlock position) and hold it (for 8-10 seconds).
      c. Alarm horn will beep 3 times. Let go of the key so it sits in the lock.
      d. With each of the remotes, separately press the unlock button. Each button will cause the alarm horn to beep.
      e. Turn the key to the left again and hold until the alarm horn beeps three times.
      f. Done
      (8) replace the vent/switch housing (make sure the air duct is attached firmly and completely), replace the dash cover trim part, replace the vent.
      (9) Grab a few beers and a camera, park the car on your high foot traffic block and hide in the bushes waiting for pedestrians to come by . . . then press the "panic" button and scare the he!! out of them! Better yet, leave a beer on the sunroof and wait for someone to reach out to grab it and then press the panic button (after snapping a few photos of them. You're done!
      Abe

    3. 01-12-2005 09:51 AM #3
      Every where I search I see that the Hella units are to be avoided. Well unfortunatly that is what's on my car. Is there any way to program those units?

    4. Member Shikaroka's Avatar
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      01-12-2005 12:10 PM #4
      The Clarion one is the one you want from the 98-99 Golfs and Jettas.
      I don't think the FCC ID numbers really mean much. They all seem to be the same, except the remote will end in a "T" for transmitter and the module will end in a "R" for receiver.

    5. Member vr6todd's Avatar
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      01-13-2005 01:47 AM #5
      Where's the best place to get one of the clarion systems? Should I be able to find one at a wrecker or the dealer?

    6. 05-12-2005 01:07 AM #6
      Bump to keep from being deleted from the archives and for those who recently asked about programing remotes,
      Abe
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...49444

    7. Junior Member NelsonR's Avatar
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      2009 MK5 Rabbit
      10-27-2008 04:45 PM #7
      Quote, originally posted by jbrams &raquo;
      There was an alarm for B4's but almost none had it (especially in the beginning). Here's the information I have on the original part:
      Original (1995-1997)
      (1) remote: (about $15-20 online or on eBay, search by FCC id#, or "code alarm" who made it)
      a. Part number: I DON'T KNOW!
      b. FCC id #: GOH-MM6-101890 (DOC:1409 K791)
      c. Two buttons (arm/disarm)
      (2) Module –
      a. Part number: 357 953 233B

      My car has 357 953 233 installed.
      This is what took place from th 357 953 233b, do you think the code alarm will still work with the GOH-MM6-101890 FCC id#?

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