VWVortex


+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 1 to 35 of 321

Thread: Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach

Hybrid View

  1. 04-27-2004 07:37 PM #1
    I just finished road testing my car after bypassing the N249, in a much more direct and "clean" method than some of the ones I've seen suggested. It works great, partial throttle is MUCH smoother and predictable - no jerky boost.

    All I did was this:

    1. Trace the path of the top (actuator) hose from the DV. It goes to a metal tube that runs along the block, then to another rubber hose, then underneath the intake manifold to the N249.

    2. Remove the hose that connects the tube to the N249, at the side closer to the N249. There is a reusable clamp, just pinch it with pliers and pull the tube off.

    3. Cap the tube to the N249 with a rubber hose cap (available at Auotzone, etc.) and clamp it on there with a hose clamp.

    4. Tapinto the FPR vacuum/boost line, which is RIGHT NEXT to the hose you just disconnected. It's the thinner braided hose that goes to the FPR.

    5. Using a 3/16" x 3/16" x 3/16" T fitting, connect the newly disconnected N249 hose to the T.

    Voila. Instant, clean bypass. Works like a charm, looks stock.


  2. 04-27-2004 07:40 PM #2
    All you need to do this is:

    1. 2 hose clamps
    2. 3/16" T fitting (plastic works fine)
    3. 5/16" rubber cap


  3. 04-27-2004 07:44 PM #3
    very nice man. for now I was just going to cap of the line from the dv valve, and run a new one.

  4. 04-27-2004 07:53 PM #4
    always good to see useful info on this forum

  5. 04-27-2004 07:53 PM #5

    I Just did it this way myself. Except I tee'd into the other Vac line right next to the FPR line on the underside of the manifold. I already tee'd the FPR line once for my boost gauge. Also, I used a ss bolt to plug the hose instead of capping it at the N249. Boost is much more predictable at part throttle.


  6. 04-27-2004 08:00 PM #6
    Quote, originally posted by enginerd »

    I Just did it this way myself. Except I tee'd into the other Vac line right next to the FPR line on the underside of the manifold. I already tee'd the FPR line once for my boost gauge. Also, I used a ss bolt to plug the hose instead of capping it at the N249. Boost is much more predictable at part throttle.

    i took this route as well... works just fine

  7. Member 1.8tizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 22nd, 2003
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    7,033
    Vehicles
    TL Type-S
    04-27-2004 09:39 PM #7
    I did it a more ghetto, easy way. The black vaccum box on the valve cover....... i unbolted it, and followed that line to where its plugged. Pulled that hose, and just put a cap over the tube where the line went to. Works fine for me.

  8. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 14th, 2001
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    9,730
    Vehicles
    Lots
    08-24-2004 07:02 AM #8
    heh, why use a T when you can use a 90 degree and be done with it. tahts all I did.

  9. Banned
    Join Date
    Dec 29th, 2003
    Posts
    1,088
    08-25-2004 04:50 PM #9
    Alrirght, right now, i'm going to switch DVs from Hyperboost into 710N dv, i'll let everyone know...

    I'm running UPsolute, AEm cai, ecs race H valve, overboost solution kit


  10. 08-25-2004 05:56 PM #10
    done! awesom mod and onlytook $8 and 15 mins.

  11. Banned
    Join Date
    Dec 29th, 2003
    Posts
    1,088
    08-25-2004 06:27 PM #11
    damn it!! i'm missing a cap, oh well, i'll do it tomorrow...but i just put back my 710N dv, and it's butterly smooth boosting at 19-20psi, i set my overboost solution kit to 1 1/2 thread...so far no limp!

  12. 04-27-2004 10:49 PM #12
    Is this another possible solution to upgrading the N75 when surging is a problem? I'm still learning about my motor and saving for a VAG-COM setup so I don't want to do anything that will throw codes or cause more problems.

  13. 04-28-2004 12:13 AM #13
    My car surges also, im running garrett software. It only surges at WOT in a high gear. Is this a remidy for my problem, Sorry im not the smartest at engines

  14. 04-28-2004 10:12 AM #14
    Quote, originally posted by Mk4Jettaboy »
    My car surges also, im running garrett software. It only surges at WOT in a high gear. Is this a remidy for my problem, Sorry im not the smartest at engines

    Try bypassing the N249 as I suggested. It may help, it may not, but it's a very cheap mod that you should do regardless.


  15. Banned
    Join Date
    Aug 17th, 2006
    Posts
    531
    08-28-2006 08:06 PM #15
    Whats the ponit of bypassing the N249?

  16. Member BigWoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 16th, 2006
    Location
    illinois
    Posts
    394
    Vehicles
    IY 20th #3543, 85 stang GT, lifted 95 F-150
    08-30-2006 01:19 PM #16
    from what ive gathered, so the computer doesnt control the DV, only the boost/vacuumm from the intake.

  17. Member JettaRed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 14th, 2000
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    10,740
    Vehicles
    2004 Audi TT 225
    04-28-2004 11:03 AM #17
    Is the sole purpose to eliminate surging or fluttering at high boost levels (>15 psi)?
    2004 Audi TT225 GIAC, DevilsOwn W/M, Modshack MOFO & VTDA, 42DD 3" DP, Neuspeed 19mm Rear Sway, Haldex Blue
    2002 GTI 337 Revo Custom, CAI, FMIC, Modshack MOFO, TT225 MAF & Injectors, DevilsOwn W/M, GHL 3" TurboBack
    2001 Audi A4 1.8TQ Dead 2000 Jetta Supercharged 2.0 Dead 2003 GTI Sold

  18. 04-28-2004 11:05 AM #18
    Quote, originally posted by JettaRed »
    Is the sole purpose to eliminate surging or fluttering at high boost levels (>15 psi)?

    Main purpose is to reduce flutter and resulting jerky boost at partial throttle, between 0 and 5psi of boost, where the N249 seems to get confused and can make your throttle very sensitive and jerky. It worked well for me.


  19. Member JettaRed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 14th, 2000
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    10,740
    Vehicles
    2004 Audi TT 225
    04-28-2004 11:13 AM #19
    It amazes me how every car is soooo different.
    2004 Audi TT225 GIAC, DevilsOwn W/M, Modshack MOFO & VTDA, 42DD 3" DP, Neuspeed 19mm Rear Sway, Haldex Blue
    2002 GTI 337 Revo Custom, CAI, FMIC, Modshack MOFO, TT225 MAF & Injectors, DevilsOwn W/M, GHL 3" TurboBack
    2001 Audi A4 1.8TQ Dead 2000 Jetta Supercharged 2.0 Dead 2003 GTI Sold

  20. 04-28-2004 11:23 AM #20
    that is a great way to do it, keeps it looking stock since you are changing an area normally hidden by engine covers...

  21. Member coolvdub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 19th, 2000
    Location
    California City,CA
    Posts
    2,237
    Vehicles
    '02 Jetta GLS, reigning high mile champ 371,675k miles and counting
    05-01-2004 03:27 PM #21
    I looked at my car an '02 Jetta and the small braided line goes to the Combi valve not the FPR. So my question is, did you actually tap into the FPR line which is braided also and very short or the line feeding the Combi valve, also braided, but longer and right next to the line that feeds the N249 valve.
    Don

    CANCER SUCKS but KAISER SUCKS MORE/But so far I kicked it's ASS

  22. 05-02-2004 11:29 AM #22
    Quote, originally posted by coolvdub »
    I looked at my car an '02 Jetta and the small braided line goes to the Combi valve not the FPR. So my question is, did you actually tap into the FPR line which is braided also and very short or the line feeding the Combi valve, also braided, but longer and right next to the line that feeds the N249 valve.

    if you are talking from the intake minifold, its the same vaccum/boost source, so it doesn't matter...

    but i would use the FPR line.


  23. Member coolvdub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 19th, 2000
    Location
    California City,CA
    Posts
    2,237
    Vehicles
    '02 Jetta GLS, reigning high mile champ 371,675k miles and counting
    05-02-2004 01:02 PM #23
    Okay, thanks for the advice. I will do exactly that.
    Don

    CANCER SUCKS but KAISER SUCKS MORE/But so far I kicked it's ASS

  24. Member turbotazzy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 15th, 2002
    Location
    Miami, Florida
    Posts
    413
    Vehicles
    2002 VW GTI 337
    05-08-2004 07:39 PM #24
    Okay, I just did this mod. Partial throttle is improved bigtime over what it was before. A couple times, I punched it and backed off the throttle. I had the lurch a couple of times but it went away after more driving.

    However, I think I'm still getting a DV flutter. I have the 710N valve and it sounds like the DV is opening and closing rapidly at partial throttle while it hisses. Ssss-sss-ss-ss-sssss-sss-sss! Lol! Would a MBC help or maybe an adjustable DV (GReddy Type S) so that I can play with the settings and try to adjust it?

    By the way, I tee'd into the fpr line. It was a b*tch to get to! 5 minute job? Yeah... okay.


    Modified by turbotazzy at 4:40 PM 5-8-2004

    Frantz Tassy
    Miami, Florida
    2002 VW GTI 337

  25. Member SB_Beetle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 11th, 2003
    Location
    Santa Barbara
    Posts
    768
    Vehicles
    '04 VW NBC 1.8T
    07-02-2008 02:11 PM #25
    Quote, originally posted by coolvdub »
    I looked at my car an '02 Jetta and the small braided line goes to the Combi valve not the FPR. So my question is, did you actually tap into the FPR line which is braided also and very short or the line feeding the Combi valve, also braided, but longer and right next to the line that feeds the N249 valve.

    Get rid of any braided lines you have and replace them with true vacuume lines. The braided lines are prone to rot and give you all kinds of seemingly invisible issues.


  26. Member hootyburra's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 19th, 2007
    Location
    Bloomsburg PA
    Posts
    7,133
    Vehicles
    337.sold 2.slow
    09-29-2008 07:10 PM #26
    great thread, will be trying this soon.
    CTS 3076 kit, CTS 750hp FMIC, CM FX400, 2L, AEB, RMR IM, Raxles, Eurodyne, 870's...

    Vag Scans, pm me

  27. Member J-tec's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 20th, 2006
    Location
    Braunschweig + Wolfsburg + Boston
    Posts
    5,582
    Vehicles
    13' Scirocco R, 01' Jetta s256
    11-29-2008 11:41 PM #27
    I did this about 6-7 months ago now, and could never figure out why i couldn't pass inspection.

    I kept getting the P0411-35-00 - Secondary air pump incorrect flow detected and couldn't figure out why until tonight

    I replaced the combi valve, n112, etc. thinking it could be something bad within those routes, lastly thinking about changing the actual pump.

    After banging my head against a wall a few dozen times, i got a vacuum pressure tester and tested the vac lines between the combi valve and the n112 while the pump was on. I had no vac at all! I checked the expansion tank, no vac pressure there either!

    I then check under the manifold to realize that a line i capped for the n249 block was actually blocking off all the vac pressure to the n249,n112, and expansion tank. The section i capped was the T section of the T valve in the vacuum line running to the n249. The port on the intake manifold where that n249 hose used to plug into was now the vac line for the DV. So i unplugged that, put the DV vac hose back to the position where it was stock on the hardline by the TIP and put the N249 valve hose back to the port on the intake mani.

    Fired the car up, logged group 077, got the SAI to turn on and yes! i have around 0-4.0 g/s flowing through the system! i had -100 g/s when there was no vaccum, just incase some of you might be seeing that.

    I just wanted to let everyone know because this was one of the most frustrating things to figure out. I was told over and over that blocking the n249 will not affect passing emissions, but IT WILL!


  28. 05-12-2004 03:17 PM #28
    some picture of what you are talking? because i plan to do it, i have to try everything to solve my problem! thanks

  29. 05-13-2004 11:12 AM #29
    awesome, thanks for the write up dbrowne. my part throttle is horrible.. hopefully this will improve it.

  30. 05-13-2004 03:01 PM #30
    Would this mod be any good with stock engine?

  31. 05-13-2004 03:37 PM #31
    Quote, originally posted by guywhoisjustin »
    Would this mod be any good with stock engine?

    It is meant to solve a specific issue (partial throttle sensitivity) which is not usually an issue in stock cars.


  32. 05-20-2004 04:10 AM #32
    pics to show?

  33. Member 4ceFed4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 3rd, 2002
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    5,550
    Vehicles
    '10 JSW, '02 GTI, '08 MCS, '12 Fusion
    05-20-2004 10:29 AM #33
    Of what, the two 10mm nuts I removed? Can someone who has already done this mod please answer the question I asked in my previous post.
    Evolution Euro Militia

    Tons of MK4 Stuff For Sale HERE

  34. 05-25-2004 09:12 AM #34

  35. Member 4ceFed4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 3rd, 2002
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    5,550
    Vehicles
    '10 JSW, '02 GTI, '08 MCS, '12 Fusion
    05-25-2004 08:27 PM #35
    I finished this mod and the results are noticable but not as dramatic as I was hoping for. On my car the correct hose ended up being the left hose in the picture on this post. The easiest way to determine which line to T into the FPR line is to disconnect one of them, and blow air into the hose that connects to the top of the DV, much simpler than trying to trace the line with your eyes or finger.
    Evolution Euro Militia

    Tons of MK4 Stuff For Sale HERE

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts