Bypassing the N249 - An Easier Approach

[dbrowne1]

Quote, originally posted by turbotazzy »

Question: How do I stop the lurching I get when I let off the throttle slowly? Is this a DV issue? This doesn't happen when I let off quickly. I've read that the DV opens when you're on boost and closes when you let off. I have the 710N valve so it's non-adjustable. Would an adjustable DV help resolve this issue? I thought bypassing the N249 would help but it hasn't. Thanks in advance.

That sounds like a DV issue, not a N249 issue. Get a Forge/Bailey/Hyperboost/anything but plastic DV.

[Voodoo.T]

Thanks for the write-up, and thanks turbotazzy for the picture I'll give this a try this weekend hopefully!

[turbotazzy]

I've got a Hyperboost with an adjustable top sitting on the shelf. I'll give that a try. Thanks.

[Stroked1.8t]

Sorry I am little lost, is this the hose to disconnect and T into the FPR vac line?

[JettAffair]

That's one of the hoses that runs from the vac canister. that can be pulled out and capped off. So can the one next to it. So yes, when you do that you can then t into the fpr line for the dv.

[SlvrBllt]

Actually I think it was the one on the right for my car. I also tapped the vacuum source that goes to the PCV rather than the FPR. Its closer and larger.

[4ceFed4]

Quote, originally posted by Stroked1.8t »

I just came in from trying to do this mod. It was night time, so I was not able to follow the DV actuator hose much further than the hard tube it connects to. In the picture above, is it confirmed that the hose on the right is the one that is connected to the FPR line via a T-connector? This particular hose probably has a 3/8" I.D., I dont know how you could attach this to a 3/16" T. Also to people attempting this for the first time, the job is easier if you move the smog hose out of the way by taking off the two 10mm nuts that hold it in place.

[QT_GTI]

pics to show?

[4ceFed4]

Of what, the two 10mm nuts I removed? Can someone who has already done this mod please answer the question I asked in my previous post.

[4ceFed4]

?

[JettAffair]

I don't see an earlier post from you? maybe I just looked over it.

As far as tapping into the fpr line with one of the existing hoses, why not just take those hoses out and use a new hose? It's much easier and then you are able to get rid of all the hoses left over from the n249.

[4ceFed4]

Quote, originally posted by 4ceFed4 »

I just came in from trying to do this mod. It was night time, so I was not able to follow the DV actuator hose much further than the hard tube it connects to. In the picture above, is it confirmed that the hose on the right is the one that is connected to the FPR line via a T-connector? This particular hose probably has a 3/8" I.D., I dont know how you could attach this to a 3/16" T.

What hoses are you talking about replacing? The one that originally goes to the DV?

[DJKeebler]

[QUOTE=turbotazzy]Question: How do I stop the lurching I get when I let off the throttle slowly? Is this a DV issue? This doesn't happen when I let off quickly. I've read that the DV opens when you're on boost and closes when you let off. I have the 710N valve so it's non-adjustable. Would an adjustable DV help resolve this issue? I thought bypassing the N249 would help but it hasn't.QUOTE]

Sounds like the same problem I'm facing. I don't know if another DV will help cause I have the Forge 007 in my car and still experience something like this. I was hoping that bypassing the N249 would solve this but it doesn't look like it will. If anyone has experienced this and found a solution, it would be appreciated. Must be common since I am using a lot of the same parts as other people.

Also, has anyone tapped the FPR line twice with T-fittings? I have my boost gauge and am just waiting for my pod to install it. But if I tap the FPR line to bypass the N249, can I still install another T-fitting for my boost gauge?

[BORABRYAN18T]

do u disconnect the electronic part of the valve when capping both the dv vacuum line off and the vac cannister line off?

in my case heres my situation, once a blue moon while i'm ripping it from 1st to 2nd, its seems as if the dv gets stuck open in between shifts. is this the n249's doing?

thanks

[4ceFed4]

Please someone.... is the hose that is being T'd into the FPR line one of the two shown in the picture a few posts up, and if so, is the hose on the right the correct one?

[dbrowne1]

Quote, originally posted by JettAffair »

I don't see an earlier post from you? maybe I just looked over it. As far as tapping into the fpr line with one of the existing hoses, why not just take those hoses out and use a new hose? It's much easier and then you are able to get rid of all the hoses left over from the n249.

Uh, because you already have a fully integrated hose and hardpipe installed that you can use, and it's much faster to reverse the process if you don't go ripping all the factory hoses out?

[dbrowne1]

It's whichever one goes directly back to the DV. I don't remember which one it is, but it's very easy to trace it back. It should take you literally 10 seconds.

[4ceFed4]

I am unable to trace it back. I have tried during bright daylight since my first attempt at night and I can't follow it once it goes a foot dow the block. Maybe if I was underneath the car. If you dont mind, could you take a look at your car and see if it is right or left?

[dbrowne1]

Quote, originally posted by 4ceFed4 »

I am unable to trace it back. I have tried during bright daylight since my first attempt at night and I can't follow it once it goes a foot dow the block. Maybe if I was underneath the car. If you dont mind, could you take a look at your car and see if it is right or left?

You have a different model and year - I don't want to say "left or right" and then have it turn out to be different on your car. Really, if you can't trace it back using your fingers at least, you shouldn't be doing this at all.

[4ceFed4]

I'm assuming the layout on your model and year is different than mine, because unless your freaking Gumby there is no way you could trace this using your fingers. I'm 6'3", and have long flexible arms and I couldn't trace this back. I have done things with cars a lot more complicated than re-routing a vac/boost hose, I think I can say it's something I'm competent to do. I'm just going to blow some compressed air in the hose that normally connects to the top of the DV and make sure I've got the right hose.

[JettAffair]

One of the lines using the metal runs to the vac canister and the other runs to the dv, if I remember correctly. I took both of those lines out and the vac canister as well, and then t'ed a new line into the fpr hose and ran that to the dv. All of this only takes about ten minutes, depending on your luck with the hose clamps.

I t'ed into the fpr line for the dv and then further down the new dv line I t'ed into that for the boost gauge. It seems to work fine.

[Seanathan]

Geez. I'll just take some pictures to post up.

Its really damn easy to see. The stock dv line goes into a metal line. Then it meets up with another line (thus why you cant pull the original line out), then goes back into a rubber line straight into the n249..

I hardly ever say this, but if you can't follow a line, then I wouldn't be working on your car. Or at least have someone with you that knows what they're doing....

[BORABRYAN18T]

when doing this little mod, do u also plug up the hose running to the vacuum cannister?

[turbotazzy]

Well I couldn't follow the line either. I'm no tech guy but everyone's making this out to be a piece of cake when it isn't for some of us. How the hell do you follow a line that disappears after you trace it for one foot? It goes UNDERNEATH the engine. I guess my frickin' x-ray vision is on the blink again...


Modified by turbotazzy at 10:17 PM 5-23-2004

[Seanathan]

Quote, originally posted by BORABRYAN18T »

when doing this little mod, do u also plug up the hose running to the vacuum cannister?

The vacuum canister just unplugs. REALLY simple. Make sure to plug that hole too Also, I have an AWP (2002) and the line is really damn simple to follow.. Look for the rubber going into a metal hardpipe (tiny tiny tiny).

[DJKeebler]

All I gotta say is that ANYONE who works on their dub should have a Bentley manual for reference. Nothing is more important. If you don't have the Bentley, I honestly don't think you should be doing any modifications to your car.

[4ceFed4]

I do own an bentley manual, and I agree that it is an essential aide.

[RABIDRABBIT1983]

Quote, originally posted by Stroked1.8t »

Sorry I am little lost, is this the hose to disconnect and T into the FPR vac line?

K guys your making it more confusing then it is......see the shiney metal circular thing at the end of the fuel rail in that pic? that rubber line coming off that is what you want to splice into. Make it easy on yourselves.

1)cut factory clamp off FPR rubber line
2)dont worry about where the F-in line goes to
3)plug a "T" into the line you pulled off FPR and put a new piece of hose from the T back into the FPR
4)now your FPR is plugged in and you still have 1 portion of the "T" not used.
5)use that no used leg of the "T" fitting for your boost gauge and your DV
6)obviously a few more hoses and "T" fitting need to be created from the FPR "T" you installed so you can run to the DV & boost gauge

your end result will look like this
http://www.aurealanrealms.org/~tjboyer/PIPING.jpg

7)pull line off DV follow it down to the N249 valve you can either put a bolt in this line or pull the line off the N249 and cap off the N249

8)the link i posted should explain the rest if not........

PUT THE WRENCHES DOWN AND STEP AWAY FROM THE VEHICLE!

Modified by RABIDRABBIT1983 at 2:08 AM 5-25-2004


Modified by RABIDRABBIT1983 at 2:12 AM 5-25-2004

[outlaw]

[4ceFed4]

I finished this mod and the results are noticable but not as dramatic as I was hoping for. On my car the correct hose ended up being the left hose in the picture on this post. The easiest way to determine which line to T into the FPR line is to disconnect one of them, and blow air into the hose that connects to the top of the DV, much simpler than trying to trace the line with your eyes or finger.

[Seanathan]

Quote, originally posted by 4ceFed4 »

I finished this mod and the results are noticable but not as dramatic as I was hoping for. On my car the correct hose ended up being the left hose in the picture on this post. The easiest way to determine which line to T into the FPR line is to disconnect one of them, and blow air into the hose that connects to the top of the DV, much simpler than trying to trace the line with your eyes or finger.

WTF?? The line you T into the fpr is the line that was shown.. that line goes straight to the intake manifold..

[4ceFed4]

Quote, originally posted by Seanathan »

WTF?? The line you T into the fpr is the line that was shown.. that line goes straight to the intake manifold..

I'm not sure what you're talking about... to clarify on my part, I used the line that is indicated by a red arrow in one of the pictures on this page of the thread. This was the hose that connected directly to the DV, and the one that is supposed to be used.

[Stroked1.8t]

Settle down man!

The hard metal line is a little difficult to see much less trace with your fingers. I was trying to get someone to confirm that the line in the pic above or on the first page is infact the same line as attached to the DV. No this isn't a hard thing to do if you are certain that you are "T"ing the correct line into the FPR line. Everyone is not as mechanically inclined like you apparently are. Please don't take this the wrong way, I am not trying to be a ****, some just need a little help.


Modified by Stroked1.8t at 5:34 PM 5-26-2004

[DJKeebler]

I finally did this mod this past weekend. The metal line is actually really hard to trace back to the DV. I had to try and follow it several times before figuring out which one it was. I was expecting much more of a difference but it wasn't really noticeable. Boost does come on a little more smoothly and I have less surging but it's still a problem. I think I may have a vaccum leak so I need to go back through and check all the clamps. Plus, I also had a hard time connecting the rubber DV line to the T fitting. Even with a clamp, I'm thinking I still have a leak.

Can I also cap off the line next to the DV hose which is supposedly going to the vac cannister?

[Nonlinear Optics]

I had an enlightening conversation with a buddy of mine, a master Audi Tech, about bypassing the N249 the other day.

He was curious how many people that do this also notice small backfires from the exhaust afterwards? Nothing huge (yet), but enough to be noticable ...