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(Pics Fixed) OK. So my entire ATP turbo kit is here: logical first steps??? TIPS??

279K views 581 replies 148 participants last post by  nater 
#1 ·
EDIT: Let me start off by saying this post has become an incredible source of all sorts of good turbo install info (and it's subsequent "issues" that you encounter during the install). I'll keep these pics as long as I can (in their same address on my website) so that they never become bright red X's (that's the goal). If they do, contact me at ' nate@nateengel.com '.

Guys,
I just want to make sure I don't do something (ie. bolt something up) in the "wrong" order.
IE. My first guess would be to mount the exh manny to the head first then put the turbo on???
What I'd like to get from you guys is any TIPS that you've found that make the process a bit easier...
Basically it's an ATP stage 2 (i/c) with a "killa" TO4E Turbo on my GTi VR6 MK3.
TIA, guys...
Later,


Modified by nater at 12:57 PM 5-8-2004
 
#102 ·
Re: (yokomomma)

Well,
She's running!
I've got some running issues right now but that's a tuning problem. Jeff and I will be working that out shortly.
I've also got exhaust issues but I'm going to have the muffler shop fix all that this week.
One BIG problem is a large oil leak in the worst of all spots - on my oil filter housing. Seems I didn't torque down my oil feed connector tight enough...at least that's where the oil appears to be coming from.
And I just got the front end back on!!!!
I'll try and fix it w/o having to pull the front end off again...

And, I actually did have to hammer away at that pipe just a tad bit on the underside of it so you can't see it at all. Still is a tough fit though.

Later,
 
#103 · (Edited)
Re: (nater)

Ok,
So here's the pics:
Of the front end. I butchered the bumper cover - if you can't tell that's great. But I can. I butchered the opening where there used to be the black plastic supports in the large opening. It needs to be sanded down flat and painted. Oh well!

So here's where I've still got some issues that I need you turbo experts to help with...Vacuum lines on the WG and on the BOV. I know I asked this already but ppl were talking "upper nipple" and "lower nipple" but I don't know what you guys mean when you say upper or lower...as I can't tell what's the top or the bottom anyway
.
This pic shows my WG and the Vac line I've got attached and which one it's attached to.

That vac line then goes into the area where the fpr is...I just added a Y connector and that's where it is hooked up to now. The left part of that Y connector is going to my BOV...

This is a great picture showing where I hooked up my vac line from the Y connector at the FPR to the BOV. Is this correct? Please help here...plus, for others viewing this thread in the future I'd like them to know what the EFF they are doing too
.

This is just a pic of the engine bay near the back where all the turbo stuff is...please take a good look and let me know if I'm missing something (besides the engine cover
).


Guys,
Please help here as I'd like to make sure this is 100% correct. My guess is I've got some vac lines mixed up...please get me straight so I know I'm not effing something up here.
Thanks guys!!!!

Later,
 
#105 ·
Re: (Marty)

Hey marty...
I was looking all around my messy garage today but realized I must have thrown those diagrams away. Man, I got that stuff like 3 weeks or more ago and the garage turned into a WAR ZONE during the turbo install...
Can't find them. But I know, I wouldn't have bothered you guys if I had them...
Sorry...need help though...

Later,
 
#108 ·
Re: (nater)

Quote, originally posted by nater »
Well,
She's running!
I've got some running issues right now but that's a tuning problem. Jeff and I will be working that out shortly.
I've also got exhaust issues but I'm going to have the muffler shop fix all that this week.
One BIG problem is a large oil leak in the worst of all spots - on my oil filter housing. Seems I didn't torque down my oil feed connector tight enough...at least that's where the oil appears to be coming from.
And I just got the front end back on!!!!
I'll try and fix it w/o having to pull the front end off again...

And, I actually did have to hammer away at that pipe just a tad bit on the underside of it so you can't see it at all. Still is a tough fit though.

Later,

nater,
about the oil leak - what type of thread is on the end of the oil pipe thats leaking? if its one of those tapered things, you might just need some teflon tape on there...
as a current SC owner mulling the whole turbo idea, I'm watching avidly btw...!
Jules
 
#109 ·
Re: (nater)

Quote, originally posted by nater »
Hey marty...
I was looking all around my messy garage today but realized I must have thrown those diagrams away. Man, I got that stuff like 3 weeks or more ago and the garage turned into a WAR ZONE during the turbo install...
Can't find them. But I know, I wouldn't have bothered you guys if I had them...
Sorry...need help though...

Later,

The two lines on both the wastegate and the BOV connect to the top and bottom areas of the diaphram. The net pressure differential between these two areas sets the force on the diaphram, which is resisted by the return spring that then sets the valve position. Once you understand how these devices work, it becomes very clear how to hook them up.
You want the wastegate valve to open when the manifold is pressurized, so a boost line runs to the bottom of the diaphram, and the top of the diaphram is left exposed to the atmosphere. Then as boost increases, there is an increasing pressure difference that tries to open the valve.
You want the BOV to open when the manifold is under vacuum, so a vacuum line runs to the top of the diaphram, and the bottom of the diaphram is left exposed to the atmosphere. Then as vacuum increases, there is an increasing pressure difference that again tries to open the valve.
 
#110 ·
So now for the really stupic question (feeling stupid right now...)...
I see plenty of (what I call) vac lines but where are my boost lines?
I thought it was one and the same?
so, according to my pic I've got a vac line that should be attached to the bottom of my WG (or closest to the exh manifold)...
And,
Looking at the BOV, I should have my vac line connected on the top...or farthest from the intake pipe, correct?
And yes, Marty...once I understand how a diaphram works I'll know exactly what the hell to do...But until then I gotta sound like a wee-tard first!

Later,
 
#111 ·
Re: (oneeuro2c)

Quote, originally posted by oneeuro2c »
how was trimming the inside of the bumper cover nate?

A bi!ch!

I tore that thing up. Now I know what you were talking about when you said you were still a bit unhappy with the inside of your bumper cover...mines' a bit flimsy b/c I left out the styrofoam...didn't feel like trimming styrofoam
.
Later,
 
#112 ·
Re: (jcorallo)

Quote, originally posted by jcorallo »

nater,
about the oil leak - what type of thread is on the end of the oil pipe thats leaking? if its one of those tapered things, you might just need some teflon tape on there...
as a current SC owner mulling the whole turbo idea, I'm watching avidly btw...!
Jules

Whatever fitting came with the ATP turbo setup is the one I've got - I guess basic brass-type fittings...
I thought I put teflon tape on those threads but maybe not.
What I really think I did is just forget to torque it down...that's my mistake ...
But IMO it's not that simple to undo...as I've had a helluva time getting that oil filter housing off every time I've had to do it...it doesn't get any easier.
Later,
 
#113 · (Edited)
Re: (95GLS)

Quote, originally posted by 95GLS »
nater,
In the pics, you show the line from the fpr going into the Y connector, the line from the BOV into the Y connector, but where is that other line going? I looked in the pics but I can't see where it ends up.

Hey man...this pic should show you (as long as I'm understanding you correctly...) that the line in question goes to the WG....is that bad???

Later,
 
#114 ·
Am I understanding correctly that I need to get my boost line by hooking it up to the compressor housing somehow???
If so, that may be why my car is running a bit odd right now
b/c I had no idea that there was a connection there to be had...
Correct me if I'm wrong here guys...
Later,
 
#115 ·
Re: (nater)

Quote, originally posted by nater »
So now for the really stupic question (feeling stupid right now...)...
I see plenty of (what I call) vac lines but where are my boost lines?
I thought it was one and the same?
so, according to my pic I've got a vac line that should be attached to the bottom of my WG (or closest to the exh manifold)...
And,
Looking at the BOV, I should have my vac line connected on the top...or farthest from the intake pipe, correct?
And yes, Marty...once I understand how a diaphram works I'll know exactly what the hell to do...But until then I gotta sound like a wee-tard first!

Later,

A vacuum line is one that can see vacuum. Only lines connected to the intake manifold (any place after the throttle body) can see vacuum. A boost line is one that can see boost. Any place after the turbo can see boost. One generally attaches the wastegate boost line directly to the optional small fitting on the compressor housing, as this gives the quickest response time.
If you want a line to see vacuum, it has to be after the throttle body. If you want it to see boost, it has to be after the turbo (and therefore after the throttle body is fine as well). If you want it to see boost but don't want it to see vacuum, it needs to be between the turbo and the throttle body.


Modified by Marty at 4:38 AM 5-17-2004
 
#116 ·
Re: (Marty)

Quote, originally posted by Marty »
One generally attaches the wastegate boost line directly to the optional small fitting on the compressor housing, as this gives the quickest response time.Modified by Marty at 4:38 AM 5-17-2004

How about if I don't have that optional fitting on the turbo? Then where would be the best place to hook up the WG line???

Later,
 
#120 ·
Re: (VR6 Mole)

Update:
I don't know what the problem is...
The car ran yesterday, it ran pretty bad (as if it were missing a cylinder) but it ran. Today I couldnt' even start it...wouldnt' hold idle. I'm going to check to see if I soldered the MAF sensor wires wrong today.
But that's wierd, if I had...then it wouldn't have run yesterday.
So, my only bet here is to get with someone that has a turbo and compare everything...at this point I'm a bit at a loss...
I'll keep this thread posted on what I find out and how things progress...
Any tips here I'd appreciate it!
Thanks.
Later,
 
#121 ·
Re: (jasonknezo)

Quote, originally posted by jasonknezo »
nate got ur im tonight, call me in the morning and well see if we can work that out tomorow nite at the shop

We may have to put this off til tomorrow b/c I'll be watching the flyers game tonight....
Unless we get some work done on it beforehand. But I can't get the car started to get to your shop anyway...DOH!

I'll def be working on it in my garage today after work though.
Later,
 
#123 ·
Re: (nater)


Hi nater, from what i see on your pictures, the FPR is not attached to any vacuum line.

It seems like the vacuum line from the inlet header that was originally attached to the fpr, isn't attached any more, , so you proly have a vacuum leek there and the FPR is not working.
So non of the valves like BOV and BOOST, aren’t working as well.




Modified by MarcoVR6SC at 1:58 PM 5-18-2004
 
#124 ·
Marco,
Thanks man. I'm not a total idiot when it comes to mechanical aptitude but when talking about vacuum lines and the like I am a self-proclaimed idiot.
I was just thinking that as long as I had them all connected together with one "source" of vacuum I'd be ok...but I totally forgot about the FPR...
Tim and Jason will stop by later today (hopefully) and we'll square this away.
Thanks guys!!! I"ll report back with pics what we do.
Later,
 
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