(Pics Fixed) OK. So my entire ATP turbo kit is here: logical first steps??? TIPS??

[nater]

EDIT: Let me start off by saying this post has become an incredible source of all sorts of good turbo install info (and it's subsequent "issues" that you encounter during the install). I'll keep these pics as long as I can (in their same address on my website) so that they never become bright red X's (that's the goal). If they do, contact me at ' nate@nateengel.com '.

Guys,
I just want to make sure I don't do something (ie. bolt something up) in the "wrong" order.

IE. My first guess would be to mount the exh manny to the head first then put the turbo on???

What I'd like to get from you guys is any TIPS that you've found that make the process a bit easier...

Basically it's an ATP stage 2 (i/c) with a "killa" TO4E Turbo on my GTi VR6 MK3.

TIA, guys...

Later,


Modified by nater at 12:57 PM 5-8-2004

[nater]

A "normal" sized picture of what I've got so far (I've already got the turbo - see my other thread with the super large pic!).

Later,

[QuickA2]

Just what ever you do dont screw it up

[nater]

Ok, so I guess it's obvious that I've got to clock this turbo so the it's pointing exactly 180deg from where it is, correct?

And the blue cap on the top is actually the oil feed?

I want to make sure I've got the oil feed and the oil return correct...

My guess is that the oil return is indeed (in these pics) on the bottom (just beyond where you can see)?
And, both flanges look identical to me so how can I tell for sure?

And, the red circular caps are for what purpose??? There are two of them (one is pictured and the other is on the other side).

Later,


Modified by nater at 5:30 PM 5-5-2004

[HIGH PSI]

Oil feed is indeed up. Oil return has a larger, rectangular hole, oil feed is smaller, round, and probably threaded.

[AlwaysInBoost]

Quote, originally posted by nater »

Ok, so I guess it's obvious that I've got to clock this turbo so the it's pointing exactly 180deg from where it is, correct? And the blue cap on the top is actually the oil feed? I want to make sure I've got the oil feed and the oil return correct... My guess is that the oil return is indeed (in these pics) on the bottom (just beyond where you can see)? And, both flanges look identical to me so how can I tell for sure? And, the red circular caps are for what purpose??? There are two of them (one is pictured and the other is on the other side). Later, Modified by nater at 5:30 PM 5-5-2004

clock the turbo 180*
top of the Turbo is for oil inlet
bottom is for outlet (don't forget the teflon tape)
red caps are for water cooling (optional), with very little work you can use your stock TB coolant lines.

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by schrickedVR6 »

clock the turbo 180* top of the Turbo is for oil inlet bottom is for outlet (don't forget the teflon tape) red caps are for water cooling (optional), with very little work you can use your stock TB coolant lines.

Thanks Highpsi...
Schrickedvr6...
I have clocked the turbo:

Ok, so I can keep the water cooling plugged up for now? Or should I not run it unless it's water cooled?

As for the Tephlon tape...I've got ATP's hardware kit which has a lot of gaskets and stuff...one of them matches up the oil return on the bottom...my guess is that's what I need for it.

So far (with these pics), so good????

Will update with pics as I progress tonight...

Later,

[nater]

bolted up oil return. Figure if there's anything 'wrong' here let me know...

Thanks for the ongoing help, guys....

Later,

[nater]

I just screwed in the brass oil feed line as the hardware kit had no "flange" as the oil return DID. I figure this is ok and doesn't need any particular "seal".
My supercharger oil feed/return was just threaded like this too...and had no particular seal on it either...
I assume it all looks good, eh?

Keep the help coming guys...I'm fairly mechanically inclined (installed cams, supercharger, etc...) but this is an entirely different ballgame.

Much appreciated!

Later,

[nater]

Please don't think I'm a retard but this pic shows how I *thought* the WG is supposed to be attached to the manifold. Please, if I did it backwards or something don't call me a wee-tod...

Later,

[bmxcorrado]

keep the pics coming man, I looking into piecing together a turbo and want to see the general idea of whats behind it

[Fox-N-It]

Looks like the wastegate will dump into the block
Might need to rotate it 180.

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by Fox-N-It »

Looks like the wastegate will dump into the block Might need to rotate it 180.

Are you sure? Only reason I ask is that when I rotated it 180degrees before it seemed to bump into the downpipe where it connects at the exhaust housing of the turbo...

Can someone help with this???

Later,

[I am Jack's VR6]

It doesn't bump. You have it facing the wrong way.

This pic might help. It's a bit hard to see the WG though

[2kjettaguy]

I think those studs would be better used on the wastegate than the oil return flange. You can just use some bolts on the oil return flange.

Make sure the gaskets you got for the wastegate have "fire rings"... basically a metal ring in the center so they don't blow out.

Definitely use some teflon tape on the threads of the oil feed line.

[GKONYA]

Where can I get some wastegate gaskets w/ the 'fire-rings'?
Just got a 38mm direct from Tial and the gaskets are do not contain metal as far as I can tell...

Awesome post Nater, you're doing 1/2 the work for me!

[I am Jack's VR6]

Quote, originally posted by GKONYA »

Where can I get some wastegate gaskets w/ the 'fire-rings'? Just got a 38mm direct from Tial and the gaskets are do not contain metal as far as I can tell...

I got mine from ATP.

[FULLE LOADED]

do they sell this gasket as kit that they sell with the bolt kit

[HIGH PSI]

Quote, originally posted by 2kjettaguy »

Definitely use some teflon tape on the threads of the oil feed line.

NO, NO, NO. DO NOT use teflon tape on an oil feed line
Always use teflon paste/pipe dope. No pipe tape or silicone RTV. The oil passages and journal bearings in most turbos are rather small and a little sliver of tape or piece of silicone can plug them. Most of the time if you are careful you can get away with it, but it is not a risk worth taking in my opinion. I rebuild turbos at work and have seen more than one fail because of tape or silicone leading to oil starvation. Just my $.02

[nater]

More pics...
wg fixed and rotated 180degrees. There's no 'easy' way to re-route that wg back into the exhaust or does it just go into the atmosphere? And, if so...does it make the car much louder???

Here's the updated pics:

Keep the help coming guys!!!!

Later,

[Marty]

If you bought a turbo with a water jacket, then hook up the water lines.

[Jefnes3]

Quote, originally posted by Marty »

If you bought a turbo with a water jacket, then hook up the water lines.

Take the line off the TB....

Wastegate dump: you'll need to make a pipe that
goes to the ground or feeds back into the DP.

Most folks, like me, can't wait to get the turbo up and running
so we run a pipe, and end up leaving it that way....

Jeff

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by Marty »

If you bought a turbo with a water jacket, then hook up the water lines.

I did.
I'll use the lines going in and out of my TB, right?
Do you know where I can get the fittings which will allow me to hook these lines up?
And what really happens if I don't run it watercooled when it has that option? Is it really bad for the turbo???

And if I have the water hooked up does it mean I still need a turbo timer b/c doesn't the aux water pump just keep pumping to keep things cool anyway?
Or is it a matter of the oil just caking up inside the turbo???

Oh, by the way...I could really use a diagram of exactly how to plumb this setup (i/c) b/c I'm totally clueless. I've got the atp stage 2 plumbing and intercooler but it's all a big pile if isht right now .
Later,

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by Jefnes3 »

Take the line off the TB.... Wastegate dump: you'll need to make a pipe that goes to the ground or feeds back into the DP. Most folks, like me, can't wait to get the turbo up and running so we run a pipe, and end up leaving it that way.... Jeff

Jeff,
what happens if I just leave it to dump w/o a pipe? I mean, it's still dumping, just in a differnt part of the engine, right?

Later,

[JettaGLXdriver]

Yeah there are a few parts that dont come in the stage II kit they dont mention or supply. Dump tube is one. You dont want to Waste under hood that is raw exhause under your hood being vented which can easily make it to air intake for cabin air and well you know. Sofarkingfast and I both have same setup we have a local shop that will make us dump tubes for $40 to get the exhaust down to the road at lease.

[Justinian]

Quote, originally posted by nater »

what happens if I just leave it to dump w/o a pipe? I mean, it's still dumping, just in a differnt part of the engine, right?

The temperature of the gas you're dumping is between 1200 and 1600 degrees. Do you really want all that hot air at the top of your engine bay?
Not to mention the fact that it is just raw exhaust fumes.

If you don't reroute, at least make a dump tube that allows the exhaust gas out of your engine bay.

[Justinian]

Yeah, what he said

/me pays the price for getting distracted before finishing the thread

[MunKyBoy]

Heres what my dump looks like.. Can't see a whole lot, but you get the idea

[Marty]

Quote, originally posted by nater »

Jeff, what happens if I just leave it to dump w/o a pipe? I mean, it's still dumping, just in a differnt part of the engine, right? Later,

You'll fill the engine bay with hot rich exhaust and possibly induct that same exhaust back in to your intake. Just take the manifold off, bolt the wastegate and the turbo and the downpipe together, buy a 1.5" diameter mandrel stainless bathroom handle from Home Depot, take it all to an exhaust shop and have them weld together a reroute like so:

[nater]

Marty,
Would an exh shop have those flanges you used on each end of the pipe on either side of that "flex section-looking part"?
That leads me to my next Q...
Is that indeed some type of flex section or is it just the picture playing games with me?

Is that just a straight 1.5" pipe in b/w the curved parts that the shop supplied?

So, if I've got this correct...

You went to HD and bought one of their SS mandrel 1.5" bathroom handle, gave it to the shop and told them what you wanted to do...and they supplied the short straight tube and the flanges and welded it all together, correct?

I'll do this over the weekend then...

Just let me know I've got this correct so I don't walk into this muffler shop and them stare at me like I'm an idiot!

Later,

[2kjettaguy]

exhaust shop isn't going to have tial 38mm flanges. You'll need to get some from ATP. The stainless bath handle rocks. Flex section is a good idea since stainless expands and contracts quite a bit. I'm not sure where to get one that small. The one Marty has looks like a hydraulics part.

Definitely do a re-route. Open dumps sound ugly (IMO)

[bdcoombs]

Quote, originally posted by 2kjettaguy »

Definitely do a re-route. Open dumps sound ugly (IMO)

i personally love the sound, its like
"rrrruuumrrrrrrrrRRRRRR I MEAN BISUNESS"

[wptrx7]

THIS IS GREAT! this should be made sticky.

[mattstacks]

O.K.
intercoller piping goes:

turbo out let to the small L pipe with the bung on it. Then to light u shaped piece \_____/, then to L shaped piece the goes from 2" to 3" and has a spot to bolt it to the bottom of the tranny, then to 3" U shaped then intercooler, then out of intercooler with 3" L shaped piece to another L shaped piece that will be facing up in the place your evap canister would be, then the long L shaped piece with the BOV flange, to the short L shaped piece that turns into 3", to the throttle body.

Hope that helps.

[QuickA2]

Does anyone know what is the bolt size for the oil return flange, and the DP where it meets the turbo housing I need those

Quote, originally posted by nater »