Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 2 of 17 FirstFirst 12345612 ... LastLast
    Results 36 to 70 of 565

    Thread: (Pics Fixed) OK. So my entire ATP turbo kit is here: logical first steps??? TIPS??

    1. 05-06-2004 11:40 AM #36
      Oil return 8mm x 20mm...2

      Not sure on the DP bolts,I would call them.


    2. 05-06-2004 12:34 PM #37
      Quote, originally posted by mattstacks »
      O.K.
      intercoller piping goes:

      turbo out let to the small L pipe with the bung on it. Then to light u shaped piece \_____/, then to L shaped piece the goes from 2" to 3" and has a spot to bolt it to the bottom of the tranny, then to 3" U shaped then intercooler, then out of intercooler with 3" L shaped piece to another L shaped piece that will be facing up in the place your evap canister would be, then the long L shaped piece with the BOV flange, to the short L shaped piece that turns into 3", to the throttle body.

      Hope that helps.

      No to contradict, cause I have not installed my kit yet...
      But I think the first L piece that you refer to as connecting to the turbo outlet is actually connected as the intake pipe to the compressor inlet.
      And the piping should go from 2" to 2.5" w/ only the 3" section at the throttle body.
      Let me know if any of this is incorrect, I want to be sure I understand this for my install.

      Here is a pic of the Tial gaskets w/ WG.
      Do these look acceptable or do I need to seek some w/ the fire-ring as mentioned??


    3. 05-06-2004 01:25 PM #38
      The piece that I am talking about is the piece between the down pipe and the L piece in this picture . It has the small nipple on it.

      The piece that goes to the compressor inlet that would have have an air filteron it is not in this picture.

      well it is in that picture just still in its bubble wrapping on the right side.

      the piece that goes to the throttle body is the J shaped piece that has a 3" end to it.

      It is the smaller L piece with the bung.


      The fire ring that was mentioned is the metal ring in that picture between the gate and the gaskets.
      This ring needs to go inbetween the manifold and the gate.





      Modified by mattstacks at 1:29 PM 5-6-2004


    4. 05-06-2004 01:38 PM #39
      Ok, I'm missing the short L nippled pipe then. Guess I'll deal w/ it during the install...damn.
      What pipes into the nipple?

      I got the t3t4 piping kit, but plans changed and am going full t4.

      Thanks for confirming the fire ring and thanks for clarifying for me.


    5. 05-06-2004 01:57 PM #40
      what that nipple is for is a good question.
      I assumed it was for the breather coming from the cam cover, but after thought I wasnt sure.
      Since it would be getting that positive pressure from the turbo.

      Honestly I dont know .
      And ATP wont answer their phone. Of course.

      I just welded mine shut.


    6. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 10th, 2000
      Posts
      31,922
      Vehicles
      2008 Passat 4Mo 3.6L Wagon, 98 VRt, 2010 Routan/Caravan :)
      05-06-2004 05:14 PM #41
      Quote, originally posted by 2kjettaguy »
      exhaust shop isn't going to have tial 38mm flanges. You'll need to get some from ATP. The stainless bath handle rocks. Flex section is a good idea since stainless expands and contracts quite a bit. I'm not sure where to get one that small. The one Marty has looks like a hydraulics part.

      Definitely do a re-route. Open dumps sound ugly (IMO)

      So, tell me this...

      Is this the part I need then???

      http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=FLS

      This is explained on atp's website as:

      "Steel - External Wastegate Drilled Flange" and they go on to explain it like this:

      "CNC'd steel external wastegate weld flange. Designed for Turbonetics Deltagate or Tial 38mm external wastegate. Perfect for dump tubes. Mounting holes are drilled through. Flange is 3/8" thick to prevent warping in high temperature applications."

      So, how many of these flanges do I need for this application? My guess is two is fine? drilled, not tapped?

      Here's what I picked up today from The Home Depot:


      Am I in the right direction????

      Later,

      Last edited by nater; 07-05-2010 at 06:02 PM.

    7. Member
      Join Date
      Jul 14th, 2000
      Posts
      6,956
      Vehicles
      2012 TT-RS
      05-06-2004 05:22 PM #42
      I purchased the stainless flexible stuff from JCWhitney. It was about $25 for 5 feet or so IIRC. I would recommend using a couple Tial flanges like I did. You need to pay attention to which flanges need to be threaded and which need to be clearance holes. I made my L dump pipe with clearance flanges on both ends, and welded a tapped flange on the end that goes in to the downpipe. This made it incredibly easy to install, and will be very easy to take apart. But as long as you have a long flex section in there, you could get away with just one flange that attaches to the Tial, and bend it out of way when you're assembling.
      2012 TT-RS in Suzuka Gray

    8. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 10th, 2000
      Posts
      31,922
      Vehicles
      2008 Passat 4Mo 3.6L Wagon, 98 VRt, 2010 Routan/Caravan :)
      05-06-2004 07:57 PM #43
      Guys,
      What fitting(s) do I need to run my TB coolant/water lines in and out of the turbo????
      It seems so easy but I need some special fittings for this, correct?


      Later,


    9. 05-06-2004 08:10 PM #44
      this is the best thread ever keep on posting ur progress

    10. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 10th, 2000
      Posts
      31,922
      Vehicles
      2008 Passat 4Mo 3.6L Wagon, 98 VRt, 2010 Routan/Caravan :)
      05-06-2004 08:53 PM #45
      Quote, originally posted by Blak Golf »
      this is the best thread ever keep on posting ur progress

      It is, but I only created it...
      It's really amazing how everybody is actually putting their $.02 in and making this the awesome thread that it is.
      I'll keep posting pics as I go AND will try and keep them active for as long as I can on my website. The goal is that these pics don't become X's and others can learn before they get started. Wouldn't that be awesome?!
      Now, back to my question I posted two posts up...about fittings for coolant lines...where can I get these and what are they called exactly???

      Later,


    11. Forum Sponsor 2kjettaguy's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 24th, 2000
      Location
      Millersville, MD
      Posts
      15,709
      Vehicles
      96 Jetta VR6, 01 TT 225, 07 GTI 4dr
      05-06-2004 09:08 PM #46
      Quote, originally posted by nater »
      Guys,
      What fitting(s) do I need to run my TB coolant/water lines in and out of the turbo????
      It seems so easy but I need some special fittings for this, correct?


      Later,

      Mine were 5/18" - 11 threads... I tapped it out using a 3/8"-11 NPT tap so I could use brass fittings from Home Depot.


    12. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 10th, 2000
      Posts
      31,922
      Vehicles
      2008 Passat 4Mo 3.6L Wagon, 98 VRt, 2010 Routan/Caravan :)
      05-06-2004 09:17 PM #47
      Quote, originally posted by 2kjettaguy »

      Mine were 5/18" - 11 threads... I tapped it out using a 3/8"-11 NPT tap so I could use brass fittings from Home Depot.

      Ok,
      So let me understand this right...
      The coolant "holes" on the turbo housing are just holes - ie. not threaded?
      So, you used a 3/8"-11NPT tap and actually created the thread for the inside of those holes, correct?
      Then just screwed in the 5/18"-11 threads?
      And you meant, 5/18"-11 not 5/8"-11...

      Please correct me if I'm wrong here...just want to make sure I do this correctly.

      Later,


    13. Member
      Join Date
      Jul 14th, 2000
      Posts
      6,956
      Vehicles
      2012 TT-RS
      05-06-2004 09:49 PM #48
      Quote, originally posted by nater »

      Ok,
      So let me understand this right...
      The coolant "holes" on the turbo housing are just holes - ie. not threaded?
      So, you used a 3/8"-11NPT tap and actually created the thread for the inside of those holes, correct?
      Then just screwed in the 5/18"-11 threads?
      And you meant, 5/18"-11 not 5/8"-11...

      Please correct me if I'm wrong here...just want to make sure I do this correctly.

      Later,

      The water passages are threaded. I've only seen NPT taped passages personally. Mine were standard 3/8" NPT. Just get some standard brass fittings to adapt from the 3/8" NPT to the 5/16" barb of the stock TB coolant lines. A right angle will make your life easier. Use the spring-loaded type clamps (like the stock ones on the TB coolant connections), as the screw type will slowly leak coolant.

      2012 TT-RS in Suzuka Gray

    14. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 10th, 2000
      Posts
      31,922
      Vehicles
      2008 Passat 4Mo 3.6L Wagon, 98 VRt, 2010 Routan/Caravan :)
      05-06-2004 10:16 PM #49
      Quote, originally posted by Marty »

      The water passages are threaded. I've only seen NPT taped passages personally. Mine were standard 3/8" NPT. Just get some standard brass fittings to adapt from the 3/8" NPT to the 5/16" barb of the stock TB coolant lines. A right angle will make your life easier. Use the spring-loaded type clamps (like the stock ones on the TB coolant connections), as the screw type will slowly leak coolant.

      Nice,
      So it's easlier than I thought!!!!

      Thanks bro!

      Now,
      anybody know where I can source these fittings? As simple as hitting The Home Depot or any local hardware store? Or is this more of a specialty item?

      Later,


    15. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 10th, 2000
      Posts
      31,922
      Vehicles
      2008 Passat 4Mo 3.6L Wagon, 98 VRt, 2010 Routan/Caravan :)
      05-06-2004 10:18 PM #50
      Oh, And does it matter which side is intake and exhaust (regarding the coolant)???

      Or will it go through either way?

      Later,


    16. Forum Sponsor 2kjettaguy's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 24th, 2000
      Location
      Millersville, MD
      Posts
      15,709
      Vehicles
      96 Jetta VR6, 01 TT 225, 07 GTI 4dr
      05-07-2004 09:23 AM #51
      Coolant in/out doesn't matter.

      My turbo is an "OEM" turbo, not a turbonetics casting which you probably have. In your case NPT fittings will probably spin right in. Home Depot!


    17. 05-07-2004 11:32 AM #52
      Quote, originally posted by nater »
      anybody know where I can source these fittings? As simple as hitting The Home Depot or any local hardware store? Or is this more of a specialty item?

      Later,

      HD should have everything you need, if not there is a place called Nyco in Souderton that carries all the fitting and clamps you will ever need. Its the only place I goto for hardware


    18. Member
      Join Date
      Dec 6th, 2001
      Location
      Rockford, MN
      Posts
      4,660
      05-07-2004 03:06 PM #53
      I just stummbled upon this thread.....didn't want to read all 2 pages.....but did anyone suggest throwing away the ATP software yet? Sorry I had to, congrats on the purchase though. Enjoy the rush

    19. Member SoFarKingFast's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 9th, 2003
      Location
      Tucson, AZ
      Posts
      1,705
      Vehicles
      2011 GTI, 2007 Honda CBR 1000RR
      05-07-2004 03:31 PM #54
      Nater:

      Join our club, look in my signature.

      Want picturs: http://swankhouse.com/ipw-web/gallery/album10

      IM me if you want any help, I just did this whole process about three weeks ago...and still working on it. I blew up my first turbo (because it was ****) and now I am finally running. It is fun, and just know, it is all worth it.

      Good luck.

      Ryan

      I'm thinkin SoFarKingFast may be right...
      Occam's Razor

    20. Member
      Join Date
      Dec 6th, 2001
      Location
      Rockford, MN
      Posts
      4,660
      05-07-2004 04:09 PM #55
      Quote, originally posted by 2kjettaguy »
      Coolant in/out doesn't matter.

      My turbo is an "OEM" turbo, not a turbonetics casting which you probably have. In your case NPT fittings will probably spin right in. Home Depot!

      That's where I got my coolant set up from!! Fit great!


    21. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 10th, 2000
      Posts
      31,922
      Vehicles
      2008 Passat 4Mo 3.6L Wagon, 98 VRt, 2010 Routan/Caravan :)
      05-07-2004 04:44 PM #56
      Ryan,
      I just joined. Same username....
      posted up a "newbie" thread...
      See you there.
      I'm gonna go back to work on the car.

      Will take some pics.

      Later,


    22. 05-07-2004 05:21 PM #57
      cool going over to the site.

    23. 05-07-2004 05:54 PM #58
      With no fear of sounding like a noob to the turbo world, I have a question. In the first pic where you show your turbo and how it's going to mount to the manifold, you say it needs to be clocked 180 degrees. I was going to mount mine the exact way you show, without clocking it first. I'm going to be running a non Intercooled setup for awhile so I figured that be the way to go seeing as its a short route to the TB. If someone could tell me if this is ok or not would be great. Thanks

    24. 05-07-2004 06:12 PM #59
      Quote, originally posted by 95GLS »
      With no fear of sounding like a noob to the turbo world, I have a question. In the first pic where you show your turbo and how it's going to mount to the manifold, you say it needs to be clocked 180 degrees. I was going to mount mine the exact way you show, without clocking it first. I'm going to be running a non Intercooled setup for awhile so I figured that be the way to go seeing as its a short route to the TB. If someone could tell me if this is ok or not would be great. Thanks

      yep, thats the way to do it for low boost non-intercooled

    25. 05-07-2004 07:27 PM #60
      Quote, originally posted by nater »

      Nice,
      So it's easlier than I thought!!!!

      Thanks bro!

      Now,
      anybody know where I can source these fittings? As simple as hitting The Home Depot or any local hardware store? Or is this more of a specialty item?
      Later,

      The coolant holes on the T4 that I got from Killa were 16mm x 1.5mm. I used 16mm x 1.5mm to -6an. That is a horrible thread for liquid. I have 10 to 12 layers of teflon tape and they still leak a little.


    26. 05-07-2004 08:03 PM #61
      Quote, originally posted by MunKyBoy »

      yep, thats the way to do it for low boost non-intercooled

      thanx munky. I realized that in order for my downpipe to work correctly (ATP 2.5" T3/T4) I need to have the turbine on the right side (assuming you are looking at it from the front of the car). This means I need to clock the turbo in order to have the compressor outlet point straight up. How do you clock a turbo? Is it as easy as loosening the bolts and rotating the housing or is there more involved? Some insight on my problem would be great. Thanx guys


    27. 05-07-2004 08:08 PM #62
      yup there are 3 sets of bolts on the turbo.. one set you loosen to clock the compressor, one set to clock the exhaust housing, and one set to clock the oil/coolant ports.. at least that was the way it was for me.. Just loosen the bolts on the cold side and it should slide right around.. you don't even have to loosen them that much to get it to spin freely

    28. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 10th, 2000
      Posts
      31,922
      Vehicles
      2008 Passat 4Mo 3.6L Wagon, 98 VRt, 2010 Routan/Caravan :)
      05-07-2004 10:59 PM #63
      OK...
      So, here's the update with lots and lots of pictures....
      My water pipe (aka "crack pipe") broke so I had to install a new one.
      Here's a pic of me cleaning off the thermostat housing:

      I installed my waterpipe (shown here attached to the thermostat housing with some grease sprayed around the outside by the seals...

      before I re-installed the thermo housing:

      I actually had to pull the waterpipe back out again b/c it was easier to do what I did in the picture above this one and hook them together then push the assembly in as one. This way I was able to line up the "nipples" and stuff with the thermo housing...

      Oh yea, had my oil pan welded today from my buddy. It looked like it would never leak any oil but I am a freakin pessimist so I threw some atv sealant around the outside just to be sure .

      I installed my nice and clean (but old) thermostat housing:

      Just snapping the thermo housing back into place along with the waterpipe in one motion:

      This shot shows everything back together AND also gives you an idea of how I routed the oil feed line...You could probably do it a million different ways but since I had a long line I figured this would be the best way...

      Just another shot:

      Ok,
      So, I'm ready to start my i/c install...
      I put my bumper/rebar back on (by accident). I realized after the fact that I should probably have left it off...But it was nice starting to see the car look like a car again ...


      I started to cut but using my recip saw I effin cut into my a/c condensor...
      Here's what happens when you aren't careful with your sawzall:


      No a/c now...was thinking of just pulling it all out but I'll just replace my condensor at a later point...


      Did a crapload of cutting and here's what I ended up with:

      Now it's starting to take shape!!!

      I actually almost have the bumper back on but forgot to take pics (was in a serious groove with the dremel tool).
      This part is a PITA and I think I've cut too much in a couple spots. To me, it looks pretty bad...but we'll see. I'll post up pics of the bumper once I get the entire thing put together...

      Thanks for looking guys...
      Will continue to post up on this thread as my project progresses!!!!

      Later,




      Modified by nater at 11:03 PM 5-7-2004

      Last edited by nater; 07-05-2010 at 06:05 PM.

    29. 05-07-2004 11:18 PM #64
      totally awsome.

    30. Member SoFarKingFast's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 9th, 2003
      Location
      Tucson, AZ
      Posts
      1,705
      Vehicles
      2011 GTI, 2007 Honda CBR 1000RR
      05-07-2004 11:55 PM #65
      Looks great. I started with an air grinder on the bumper, then just took it to my exhaust guy to cut out for me. Took 2 mins, and $20. Well worth it. I cut a lot of my bumper away too:

      I'm thinkin SoFarKingFast may be right...
      Occam's Razor

    31. 05-08-2004 01:03 AM #66
      This for sure needs a sticky.

      Awesome info guys!


    32. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 10th, 2000
      Posts
      31,922
      Vehicles
      2008 Passat 4Mo 3.6L Wagon, 98 VRt, 2010 Routan/Caravan :)
      05-08-2004 12:56 PM #67
      OK,
      So I've starting routing my plumbing...I don't have pics yet (give me til tomorrow)...
      Basically, what do I have to do to get my turbo inlet and the large elbow to clear my a/c (whatever those two lines are going into the firewall)...
      I've pulled the little box off that seems to protect them a bit and started yanking at them and bending them away...
      But it's still a tight fit. Is this the way it's supposed to be? Any tips?

      And another thing, there is a canister of sorts which is associated with the a/c compressor via a/c lines (with the two bolts that are attached to the frame behind the passenger side headlight area)...I disconnected the lines going in and out (if you see above I already accidentally drained my freon with the sawzall)...where can I move that silver canister to????

      I'll post pics later but I know you all knwo what I'm talking about w/o pics...
      Help!!!


      Later,


    33. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 10th, 2000
      Posts
      31,922
      Vehicles
      2008 Passat 4Mo 3.6L Wagon, 98 VRt, 2010 Routan/Caravan :)
      05-08-2004 01:03 PM #68
      Actually,
      Here's the pic (from the first page) of my a/c lines by the firewall and how they are too close to the inlet of the turbo:

      Is it just as simple as bending these lines until they are sufficiently out of the way?
      I mean, short of pulling out the a/c alltogether.

      Later,

      Last edited by nater; 07-05-2010 at 06:06 PM.

    34. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 10th, 2000
      Posts
      31,922
      Vehicles
      2008 Passat 4Mo 3.6L Wagon, 98 VRt, 2010 Routan/Caravan :)
      05-08-2004 01:22 PM #69
      Ok guys,
      So I lied...here's more pics from what I did this morning (not much but good to document, I suppose):

      Self-expressive...i guess. TB plumbing...

      Close-up of the a/c lines that I had to bend (notice the one on the right that I bent into the one on the left - but the left one doesn't budge. I still need to complete this as there still is not enough space for the elbow to attach to the turbo: help

      This is a nice shot that shows how I (now, I was guessing what I needed to do as I've got no direction) ran the plumbing from the i/c to the throttle body. Anybody that sees anything wrong or that is important to point out PLEASE SPEAK UP AS THIS THREAD IS FOR OTHERS TO SEE LATER...

      Another shot, but here's my question: where the heck do I put that a/c canister that is out of the way (now) on the bumper (the silver thing)?

      A cool shot from above the car...

      The pics are here so you can help me but also others as well when they do their turbo...so please chime in with any and all relevant info!!!!!

      Thanks guys!

      Later,

      Last edited by nater; 07-05-2010 at 06:07 PM.

    35. Member
      Join Date
      Jun 30th, 1999
      Location
      MoCo, MD
      Posts
      3,933
      Vehicles
      Jetta TDi, BMW S1000R, Suzuki DRZ400SM, Brodozed Tacoma
      05-08-2004 01:45 PM #70
      Looking good.

      Definitely pick up the WG gaskets with the fire ring; the pair supplied by Tial are complete junk and will burn through. I have also heard of people having good luck with running no gasket, just the fire ring.
      APtuning and ATP both carry the gaskets, as well as http://www.import-parts.com

      Cheers,
      Pat

      DCI

    Page 2 of 17 FirstFirst 12345612 ... LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •