(Pics Fixed) OK. So my entire ATP turbo kit is here: logical first steps??? TIPS??

[oneeuro2c]

how was trimming the inside of the bumper cover nate?

[95GLS]

nater,

In the pics, you show the line from the fpr going into the Y connector, the line from the BOV into the Y connector, but where is that other line going? I looked in the pics but I can't see where it ends up.

[jcorallo]

Quote, originally posted by nater »

Well, She's running! I've got some running issues right now but that's a tuning problem. Jeff and I will be working that out shortly. I've also got exhaust issues but I'm going to have the muffler shop fix all that this week. One BIG problem is a large oil leak in the worst of all spots - on my oil filter housing. Seems I didn't torque down my oil feed connector tight enough...at least that's where the oil appears to be coming from. And I just got the front end back on!!!! I'll try and fix it w/o having to pull the front end off again... And, I actually did have to hammer away at that pipe just a tad bit on the underside of it so you can't see it at all. Still is a tough fit though. Later,

nater,

about the oil leak - what type of thread is on the end of the oil pipe thats leaking? if its one of those tapered things, you might just need some teflon tape on there...

as a current SC owner mulling the whole turbo idea, I'm watching avidly btw...!

Jules

[Marty]

Quote, originally posted by nater »

Hey marty... I was looking all around my messy garage today but realized I must have thrown those diagrams away. Man, I got that stuff like 3 weeks or more ago and the garage turned into a WAR ZONE during the turbo install... Can't find them. But I know, I wouldn't have bothered you guys if I had them... Sorry...need help though... Later,

The two lines on both the wastegate and the BOV connect to the top and bottom areas of the diaphram. The net pressure differential between these two areas sets the force on the diaphram, which is resisted by the return spring that then sets the valve position. Once you understand how these devices work, it becomes very clear how to hook them up.

You want the wastegate valve to open when the manifold is pressurized, so a boost line runs to the bottom of the diaphram, and the top of the diaphram is left exposed to the atmosphere. Then as boost increases, there is an increasing pressure difference that tries to open the valve.

You want the BOV to open when the manifold is under vacuum, so a vacuum line runs to the top of the diaphram, and the bottom of the diaphram is left exposed to the atmosphere. Then as vacuum increases, there is an increasing pressure difference that again tries to open the valve.

[nater]

So now for the really stupic question (feeling stupid right now...)...
I see plenty of (what I call) vac lines but where are my boost lines?

I thought it was one and the same?
so, according to my pic I've got a vac line that should be attached to the bottom of my WG (or closest to the exh manifold)...

And,
Looking at the BOV, I should have my vac line connected on the top...or farthest from the intake pipe, correct?

And yes, Marty...once I understand how a diaphram works I'll know exactly what the hell to do...But until then I gotta sound like a wee-tard first!

Later,

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by oneeuro2c »

how was trimming the inside of the bumper cover nate?

A bi!ch!

I tore that thing up. Now I know what you were talking about when you said you were still a bit unhappy with the inside of your bumper cover...mines' a bit flimsy b/c I left out the styrofoam...didn't feel like trimming styrofoam .
Later,

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by jcorallo »

nater, about the oil leak - what type of thread is on the end of the oil pipe thats leaking? if its one of those tapered things, you might just need some teflon tape on there... as a current SC owner mulling the whole turbo idea, I'm watching avidly btw...! Jules

Whatever fitting came with the ATP turbo setup is the one I've got - I guess basic brass-type fittings...

I thought I put teflon tape on those threads but maybe not.
What I really think I did is just forget to torque it down...that's my mistake ...

But IMO it's not that simple to undo...as I've had a helluva time getting that oil filter housing off every time I've had to do it...it doesn't get any easier.
Later,

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by 95GLS »

nater, In the pics, you show the line from the fpr going into the Y connector, the line from the BOV into the Y connector, but where is that other line going? I looked in the pics but I can't see where it ends up.

Hey man...this pic should show you (as long as I'm understanding you correctly...) that the line in question goes to the WG....is that bad???

Later,

[nater]

Am I understanding correctly that I need to get my boost line by hooking it up to the compressor housing somehow???

If so, that may be why my car is running a bit odd right now b/c I had no idea that there was a connection there to be had...
Correct me if I'm wrong here guys...

Later,

[Marty]

Quote, originally posted by nater »

So now for the really stupic question (feeling stupid right now...)... I see plenty of (what I call) vac lines but where are my boost lines? I thought it was one and the same? so, according to my pic I've got a vac line that should be attached to the bottom of my WG (or closest to the exh manifold)... And, Looking at the BOV, I should have my vac line connected on the top...or farthest from the intake pipe, correct? And yes, Marty...once I understand how a diaphram works I'll know exactly what the hell to do...But until then I gotta sound like a wee-tard first! Later,

A vacuum line is one that can see vacuum. Only lines connected to the intake manifold (any place after the throttle body) can see vacuum. A boost line is one that can see boost. Any place after the turbo can see boost. One generally attaches the wastegate boost line directly to the optional small fitting on the compressor housing, as this gives the quickest response time.

If you want a line to see vacuum, it has to be after the throttle body. If you want it to see boost, it has to be after the turbo (and therefore after the throttle body is fine as well). If you want it to see boost but don't want it to see vacuum, it needs to be between the turbo and the throttle body.


Modified by Marty at 4:38 AM 5-17-2004

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by Marty »

One generally attaches the wastegate boost line directly to the optional small fitting on the compressor housing, as this gives the quickest response time.Modified by Marty at 4:38 AM 5-17-2004

How about if I don't have that optional fitting on the turbo? Then where would be the best place to hook up the WG line???

Later,

[WMTJ]

Ok, who knows where I could get a diagram of both the tail wastegate and the Greddy BOV? Web sites?

[jasonknezo]

nate got ur im tonight, call me in the morning and well see if we can work that out tomorow nite at the shop

[VR6 Mole]

Quote, originally posted by jasonknezo »

nate got ur im tonight, call me in the morning and well see if we can work that out tomorow nite at the shop

dont ever let this person touch your car.. please...

[nater]

Update:
I don't know what the problem is...

The car ran yesterday, it ran pretty bad (as if it were missing a cylinder) but it ran. Today I couldnt' even start it...wouldnt' hold idle. I'm going to check to see if I soldered the MAF sensor wires wrong today.
But that's wierd, if I had...then it wouldn't have run yesterday.

So, my only bet here is to get with someone that has a turbo and compare everything...at this point I'm a bit at a loss...

I'll keep this thread posted on what I find out and how things progress...

Any tips here I'd appreciate it!

Thanks.

Later,

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by jasonknezo »

nate got ur im tonight, call me in the morning and well see if we can work that out tomorow nite at the shop

We may have to put this off til tomorrow b/c I'll be watching the flyers game tonight....
Unless we get some work done on it beforehand. But I can't get the car started to get to your shop anyway...DOH!

I'll def be working on it in my garage today after work though.
Later,

[jasonknezo]

call me when u get done work, me and tim will come over

[MarcoVR6SC]

Hi nater, from what i see on your pictures, the FPR is not attached to any vacuum line.

It seems like the vacuum line from the inlet header that was originally attached to the fpr, isn't attached any more, , so you proly have a vacuum leek there and the FPR is not working.

So non of the valves like BOV and BOOST, aren’t working as well.



Modified by MarcoVR6SC at 1:58 PM 5-18-2004

[nater]

Marco,
Thanks man. I'm not a total idiot when it comes to mechanical aptitude but when talking about vacuum lines and the like I am a self-proclaimed idiot.

I was just thinking that as long as I had them all connected together with one "source" of vacuum I'd be ok...but I totally forgot about the FPR...

Tim and Jason will stop by later today (hopefully) and we'll square this away.

Thanks guys!!! I"ll report back with pics what we do.

Later,

[need_a_VR6]

Quote, originally posted by nater »

Tim and Jason will stop by later today (hopefully) and we'll square this away.

If you're talking about Bunson and Beaker, good luck

[jasonknezo]

i think it needs loop tuned paul

[need_a_VR6]

Quick lesson before you guys blow something up: Do as I say, not as I do. That is all.

[MarcoVR6SC]

Your running a chip right? Don't forget that the ECU needs some time to adapt(as good as it can), so proly the engine will run bad and a little rich at first, but then after a few miles and some engine cool downs it will run better.

Well that's for my car, but it's obdI, i think that with odbII it adapts a little faster.

[veedub11]

Quote, originally posted by Marty »

The water passages are threaded. I've only seen NPT taped passages personally. Mine were standard 3/8" NPT. Just get some standard brass fittings to adapt from the 3/8" NPT to the 5/16" barb of the stock TB coolant lines. A right angle will make your life easier. Use the spring-loaded type clamps (like the stock ones on the TB coolant connections), as the screw type will slowly leak coolant.

Where did you get these brass coolant line connectors? They should be the same size as those on a T3 right?

[667]

I have no useful info. I just wanted to say ROCK ON NATE!

[hoopTser]

Quote, originally posted by nater »

I was just thinking that as long as I had them all connected together with one "source" of vacuum I'd be ok...but I totally forgot about the FPR...

Yeah you the right idea but you forgot one important part, to connect a vacuum source! Where do you expect the bov, wastegate, or the FPR to get a vacuum signal from if they are only connected to each other. This is your problem. At idle your car is getting way too much fuel, in boost your car is getting way too little fuel. The only time the fueling is correct without a vacuum signal on the FPR is when you are at 0 vacuum.

[jasonknezo]

we messed around with the piping, redid some vaccum lines and redid the throttle body intercooler pipe and i have to say it ran better but now it needs some custom chip tuning, at 9 psi its damn fast

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by jasonknezo »

we messed around with the piping, redid some vaccum lines and redid the throttle body intercooler pipe and i have to say it ran better but now it needs some custom chip tuning, at 9 psi its damn fast

Yes, it needs Jeff's attention. But I took it out today and it rips.

Goddam, is that WG LOUD!!! I'm def having it re-routed back into the exhaust later this week.
But it's amazing how quiet the exhaust is. I mean, it's quieter than stock but an amazing tone that the turbo adds...a nice rumble.

Later,

[MunKyBoy]

damn man, good to see your almost done with your project bro! Have you fixed you car up yet? That dude up there is right about your FPR. I'm almost positive that is why the car isn't running.. You NEED your vac source to that.. I just finished with my own project as well so if you have any questions let me know and I can walk you through whatever you need

[nater]

thanks munky!!! Yea, fpr wasn't connected to any line. We connected then it started up!
Later,

[BlownGinster]

Quote, originally posted by nater »

Yes, it needs Jeff's attention. But I took it out today and it rips. Goddam, is that WG LOUD!!! I'm def having it re-routed back into the exhaust later this week. But it's amazing how quiet the exhaust is. I mean, it's quieter than stock but an amazing tone that the turbo adds...a nice rumble. Later,

My open gate isn't loud at all. Actually, I can't here it at all. It turns 90 degrees out of the gate and is open. Is ther something wrong with mine? Builds boost to about 12-13 and stays their until I shift. Starts spooling at about 2500, hits about 5 at 3k, fully spooled by about 4500-4800.

[95GLS]

nater, some complete pics of vac and boost lines would be great..maybe even a little diagram or some "help" from paint in your pics would be awesome..I'm sure there are more of us who could use this than me, great job documenting everything

[nater]

Now that I know it's all working correctly I'll take a couple pics of the engine bay which shows everything....
That way we can keep these pics on this thread for others to see.

But to be honest, my problems were quite simple and almost idiotic so I doubt anyone else will have major problems like I had. I mean, even though my car was freaking out it was a matter of just connecting one or two lines and all was well. No biggie.

Later,

[jasonknezo]

u should also show the "custom" throttle body intercooler pipe hammer tuned

[AlwaysInBoost]

Quote, originally posted by BlownGinster »

Builds boost to about 12-13 and stays their until I shift. Starts spooling at about 2500, hits about 5 at 3k, fully spooled by about 4500-4800.

what size turbo? specs?