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    VWVortex


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    Thread: How to replace front strut mount rubber without a spring compressor.....long

    1. 05-08-2004 11:02 PM #1
      Here is a way to replace the front upper strut mount rubber when they have collapsed and worn out making a nice clunking sound when bad.. I've done this many times and it is an easy way to replace the rubber mount without a spring compressor or removing the front struts or tires. All you need is a floor jack, a few sockets, and the key to this DIY is to have a nut from the front strut mount that comes on a 1992-1997 Passat. You can buy the nut at the VW dealer for like $1 or if you have an old tie rod from numerous VW models, use the nut the locks the tie rod end to the tie rod shaft. What is important is to make sure that you NEVER jack up the car until the nut that holds the strut bearing down on top up the upper spring seat is tight. I accept no responsiblity if you attempt this DIY.
      First acquire the Passat nut from the dealer when you go to buy your upper strut mount rubber. I never replace the actual strut ball bearing assembly because they ever rarely fail. It is just the rubber piece that gets worn out. Open the hood and while the car is resting on the tires remove the plastic dust cover that fits over top of the strut shaft. Next remove the nut that secures the round plate that sits on top of the strut.

      While the tires are STILL RESTING on the ground, remove the nut that fits down inside the rubber strut mount. This looks like it has a washer (shoulder) made onto the nut.

      Now install the Passat nut onto the strut shaft that is protruding though the strut mount and tighten this nut. This nut does not have a 'shoulder' .

      Jack up the side of the car you are working on and the strut assembly will drop down allowing access to remove the rubber mount and side it out from where it rests in the body of the car.

      Slide out the old rubber mount and slide in the new mount and fit it over the stut shaft.

      Center the new Strut mount in the body and lower the car until it is COMPLETELY resting back on the ground.

      Remove the Passat nut you had installed.

      Install the Jetta/Golf original nut with shoulder.

      Reinstall the upper strut mounting plate

      Proceed to the other front strut and repeat procedure.
      Here is a pic comparing the 2 different nuts

      Simple and quick. Please read completely and thoughly this post before attempting.....better yet print it for reference. Oh by the way this works on late model A3 chassis cars as well.


      Modified by 4string at 11:04 PM 5-8-2004


      Modified by 4string at 12:25 PM 4-18-2005


    2. Member iae21's Avatar
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      05-13-2004 10:18 AM #2
      WOW...........if this isnt easy.....i dont know what it.

      Definetly will by trying this one out soon


    3. Member iae21's Avatar
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      05-15-2004 02:08 PM #3
      just curious, what is the size/pitch of that hex bolt???

    4. 05-15-2004 02:21 PM #4
      whats wrong with jacking it up until the nut is tight? Some of us dont have access to to impact guns. I actually did that...and there have been no problems.

    5. 05-15-2004 02:30 PM #5
      Thank you! I need to do this.

    6. 05-16-2004 02:16 AM #6
      Quote, originally posted by mJstk01 »
      whats wrong with jacking it up until the nut is tight? Some of us dont have access to to impact guns. I actually did that...and there have been no problems.

      I believe if you don't have the nut tight on the strut shaft the spring will become uncompressed and it will be difficult to have enough clearance to remove the rubber stut mount. If you have really short springs I guess it wouldn't be an issue. The pics i took were of a jetta with the driver's gear springs on the car.


    7. 05-19-2004 02:03 PM #7
      I just chnaged the bearings and the rubber mounts today. i used an impact gun to remove then 2nd nut, i jacked up the car with no nut on the strut bolt and it was kinda tricky changing the mount and bearing, and i have H&R sport springs. Managed to do it

      also found out i only had 4 lug nuts on my wheel


    8. Member RavinJetta's Avatar
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      05-19-2004 03:37 PM #8
      Good job. That is way easier than taking the whole suspension off. Especially on the passenger side.

    9. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      05-19-2004 06:36 PM #9
      good deal, thanks for the writeup

    10. Member evilpat's Avatar
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      05-19-2004 06:39 PM #10
      very creative

    11. 05-25-2004 02:25 AM #11
      I have been told by my dear my front strut mount/bearing worn need replacement. Quote??? $610.00. it's 1998 jetta GL. I was very disspointed with it as parts cost only 60 bucks. After looking at your post I thought I could take chance to do that. Here is quesions:

      1. Will the jack supplied by factory for tire change is enough for this?
      2. I see your point on nut strut bearing to keep spring, but how do I know whether my strut bearing is worn?

      your post helping other a lot. thanks for that! glad to see your reply


    12. Member M Diddy's Avatar
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      07-08-2004 03:39 AM #12
      Bump to the top for some great info!!!
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    13. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      07-08-2004 09:54 AM #13
      Quote, originally posted by hanchan »
      I have been told by my dear my front strut mount/bearing worn need replacement. Quote??? $610.00. it's 1998 jetta GL. I was very disspointed with it as parts cost only 60 bucks. After looking at your post I thought I could take chance to do that. Here is quesions:

      1. Will the jack supplied by factory for tire change is enough for this?
      2. I see your point on nut strut bearing to keep spring, but how do I know whether my strut bearing is worn?

      your post helping other a lot. thanks for that! glad to see your reply

      1: the jack supplied by the factory to change your tire (IMO) is only good to use as a paper weight...it sucks
      2: I think, correct me if I'm wrong guys, that you can tell if the strut bearing is worn by listening for a clunk when you turn the wheel


    14. 07-08-2004 11:36 AM #14
      I vote that this goes in the DIY section!

      Also... If your turning and hear a clunk I would that would be the ball joint or bad tie-rod end.


    15. 07-08-2004 01:09 PM #15
      Thanks




      Modified by djdeeb at 5:13 PM 7-9-2004


    16. 08-01-2004 11:21 PM #16
      Can anyone tell me the part # for the passat nut? I need to get one this week and the dealer needs the part number.

    17. 08-01-2004 11:46 PM #17
      Quote, originally posted by vwgti1.8TT »
      Can anyone tell me the part # for the passat nut? I need to get one this week and the dealer needs the part number.

      ditto, or at least the size of the nut so I can find it at a hardware store


    18. 08-02-2004 12:32 AM #18
      this looks VERY familiar... was this posted before? i remember the shot comparing the two bolts pretty vividly. it was on a while ago.

    19. 08-02-2004 07:17 AM #19
      The shot was posted, but I didnt see any size written down.

    20. 08-04-2004 07:34 PM #20
      I just tried to do this. Ran into a problem. The damm thing keeps spinning. Does my 150psi commpressor unable to do the job. im gonna go to a friends shop tommorow and try to use his huge compressor. Is that the problem or is it something else. Does the blue tread lock have anything to do with it?

    21. 08-08-2004 10:23 PM #21
      you can try the other tool... its like a crowsfoot wrench kind of thing... it allows you to put an allen key thru it to the strut tower... use the allen key to hold it still while you take the nut off.

    22. 02-05-2005 03:44 PM #22
      This does not work on the passenger side if the car is on Shine springs. They sit higher, so even when the Paasat nut is tight, when you drop the strut it hits the axle because the spring is higher than stock. It's a matter of less than half an inch, but I could not squeeze the rubber out. Driver's side was cake though. Now I'm driving on one motorsport mount and one torn stock rubber until I get a chance to do disconnect the axle to get to the thing.

    23. 02-05-2005 03:54 PM #23
      red x's cuz it's an old thread.

    24. Member jettaiv4turbochrg's Avatar
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      03-23-2005 05:15 PM #24
      WoW... Cool thread.... I'm going to try this tonight when I go home from work.... Found out the nut is 14x1.5mm from the VW dealer.... I bought the nut from a hardware store. Looks like it will work, nut slips right through the new bushing. Hope this will work.... If any problems I'll post something tomorrow....
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    25. Member M Diddy's Avatar
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      04-18-2005 12:07 PM #25
      Found it! You wouldn't happen to be able to put the pictures back up would you????
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    26. 04-18-2005 12:14 PM #26
      this is great, i need these installed and i was about to pay someone mad money to do it.....this would be awsome with pics
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    27. 04-18-2005 12:27 PM #27
      pics are up and will be for awhile.......I hope. You can also replace the bearing (which rarely ever fails) by doing the same procedure except you have to lower the body of the car back down onto the upper spring seat after you have removed the old rubber mount, then remove the Passat nut and the old bearing. Slide on the new bearing, tighten the passat nut, lift the car up and install the new rubber mount and perform the above procedure mentioned in my post. Do this at you own risk. I have probably done 100 sets of these mount replacements and only 2 did I have to loosen the right inner axle joint because the suspension wouldn't drop low enough. takes like 20 minutes to do.


      Modified by 4string at 12:34 PM 4-18-2005

    28. Global Moderator Dan Halen's Avatar
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      04-18-2005 01:27 PM #28
      This is awesome, 4string!
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    29. 04-18-2005 02:22 PM #29
      Quote, originally posted by 4string »

      Never, ever, ever, ever, never, never, use a freaking impact wrench to tighten a strut nut.


    30. Member RavinJetta's Avatar
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      04-18-2005 02:25 PM #30
      Great thread

    31. Member
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      04-18-2005 02:31 PM #31
      Quote, originally posted by ubermensch »

      Never, ever, ever, ever, never, never, use a freaking impact wrench to tighten a strut nut.

      You are correct sir. Just 44 ft/lbs of torque is all that is needed.

      2011 4-DR TDI

    32. 04-18-2005 05:02 PM #32
      Quote, originally posted by ubermensch »

      Never, ever, ever, ever, never, never, use a freaking impact wrench to tighten a strut nut.


      I used the 3/8 impact to remove the nut, tightened with a torque wrench. if you use an impact to tighten the nut the plastic top of the strut bearing will be destroyed.


    33. 04-18-2005 07:25 PM #33
      How do you keep the strut from spinning when you're tightening with a torque wrench?

    34. Member gawa's Avatar
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      04-19-2005 12:03 PM #34
      Quote, originally posted by jwcma »
      How do you keep the strut from spinning when you're tightening with a torque wrench?

      Quote, originally posted by digitalhippie »
      you can try the other tool... its like a crowsfoot wrench kind of thing... it allows you to put an allen key thru it to the strut tower... use the allen key to hold it still while you take the nut off.

      Bump~
      I'm planning to replace my front strut mounts too and was wondering about the problem of the strut spinning as well. Can anyone elaborate on what digitalhippie is explaining?


    35. Member
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      04-19-2005 12:06 PM #35
      this explains it very well. The DIY section in the MIV forum is pretty helpfull if one takes the time to look.

      http://www.nclh.org/car/coilover_howto/

      2011 4-DR TDI

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