Just thought of creating a small interesting guide for those of us who don't know or they are afraid to do it.
Here we go....
This is a photo of my dirty engine bay. As you can see a valve cover gasket is gone. Too many oil dripping from the cover on the cylinder head.
So, I decided to change the gasket. Then I though, hmmmm why not change the camshaft with a one more agressive? So I bought a Kent 270 degrees camshaft.
But since I am about to change the camshaft, why not buy an adjustable cam gear to get the most out of it? After a little searching in the vortex and every ebay site known to me I come up with this.
Techtonics adjustable +-8 degrees brand new, which I got from D.A.T. here on the vortex. Top guy, sent it immediately! Good deal!
I also bought a new gasket for 5 euros. its amazing something so cheap can get you into so many troubles....
First I removed the accelerator cable, ISV and vacuum hose going to the brake servo. Now I have more room to work.
With everything removed over the valve cover, its time to attack the 8 10mm nuts holding it. Make sure you remove it carefully and you don't drop anything inside the engine.
Under the valve cover you should have a plastic cover which helps lubricate the cam better. Remove this also.
Then you will have something like this in front of you.
Check the edges of the cylinder head where the gasket was. There is oil everywhere. This had to be cleaned carefully....
Loose the belt tensioner and remove the belt from the cam gear. Don't worry about the marks. Its very easy to adjust the timing later on.
Also get the 4 spark plugs out and place them on a clean piece of paper with the order you took them out.
Now its time to remove the old cam gear from the camshaft. Using a 19mm socket undo the bolt. You can put something in the holes of the cam gear to stop it from moving. Be carefully not to damage the surface of the cylinder.
Once the cam gear is out you can see this small part on the camshaft. Thats the woodruff key which acts as a guide for the cam gear.
Here is the slot that the woodruff key is supposed go. Make sure the curved side of the woodruff key is inside the camshaft slot.
And now the most important part of the uninstall!!!! The bearing caps.
Undo the nuts evenly an all 4 caps to avoid excessive pressure on one side of the cam only. When the caps are almost out, put them on a clean paper the order you removed them. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! if you mix them you could have problems after.
Here are mine. They go from left to right as excactly they are placed on the paper. I also kept the position of the nuts just to be safe.
The camshaft is removed. Now you see the tappets. In my engine are hydraulic and need no adjustment. If they were noisy before the install, now its a good chance to change them with new ones. They are not that expensive.
CLEANING TIME..... BLIAX!
Yes, yes that black thing on top of the plastic cover is oil. Just to get an idea of how clean your engine is inside....
After a couple of hours of cleaning and ruining a few brushes everything is sparkling!
Now, The installation of the new camshaft is the opposite of the uninstall obviously.... Make sure you use a lot of oil on the bearing caps and you install them in the order you removed them. Don't tight one cap at a time, but tight a little bit on each one evenly.
Torque the camgear at 80nm.
Before you tight them all the way try to turn the camshaft a few times to see if its hard or if its hitting anywhere. Don't worry about the pistons. The valves are nowhere near at hitting them because as we have said many many many times 8V engines are non interferent engines.
According to the bentley the camshaft bearing cap nuts require 20nm of torque. Make sure you don't overtight them or you will have excessive wear and possibly damage your engine.
The gasket is also installed. Make sure the surface is clean before you install it.
Note how clean the plastic cover is now....
Once everything is nice and tight, double check on the caps and the gasket. Make sure the small orange rubber gasket is seated properly and the blue one also.
Install the valve cover and torque the nuts at 10nm.
Find the timing marks and make sure everything is put back together before you turn the key. Don't worry about wrong timing. If its wrong its just won't fire.
Once the engine is running, keep it at 2000rpm for 20 mins to bend in the new cam.
Now head for your nearest rolling road and tune your engine! Enjoy you extra 10hp!
Job well done!
Modified by Black_cabbie at 10:41 PM 10-26-2005
Modified by Black_cabbie at 10:45 PM 10-26-2005
Modified by Black_cabbie at 10:47 PM 10-26-2005