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    Thread: G60 Tuning and Common G60 Info

    1. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      07-10-2004 12:56 AM #1
      Hey everybody.... I'd like to get some help for an FYI, FAQ my G60 runs like digifunk, Q&A write up.

      I didn't see this in the FAQ... maybe I missed it?
      I'll bet there is some info that could come from the CCA site... haven't looked in awhile.

      We get a ton of phone calls from G60 owners all over the world... every day because their G60 cars run poorly.. and to be honest it is almost always something very basic. If you haven't tried it, it is pretty hard to diagnose a poor running car over the phone. Kind of like calling the doctor for a examination over the phone and expecting a cure and good heath.

      So here is a start please help.
      I will edit this top post and add to it as it grows.
      My plan is to email this to guys when they have G60 running problems.

      Lets come up with some questions from this forum and give the answers.

      Thanks in advance for all of your combined knowledge and contributions.

      Q: So my car goes full pig fat rich at at 3,4 or 5k rpm and looses all its power or goes completely flat on power.

      A: Well you need to start with the basics. Good tune up parts, Bosch W6DPO plugs good Bosch cap and rotor, plug wires, fuel filter, correct timing procedure, vac line replacement not just check them, ecu vac line 1M, replace ground wires and wires for the battery, alternator, starer and ecu...ect after all these cars are near 14 years old. Check for boost leaks they can cause the funk mode. Run the correct Bosch O2 sensor, check or replace your knock sensor, if the wire to it is rubbed through replace it. Did you check to see if your cam timing slipped? Replace the #30 ecu power control relay.

      Q: So my car goes full dust fart'n lean at at 3,4 or 5k rpm and looses all its power or goes completely flat on power. The plugs are bright white and it pings.

      Q: What is the correct ignition timing procedure for my G60?

      Q: How do I check my cam timing?

      A:???

      Last edited by JBETZ; 06-23-2014 at 05:45 PM.
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    2. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      07-11-2004 11:49 PM #2
      ok, no one cares about this... thats cool
      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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    3. Member smockrw's Avatar
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      07-11-2004 11:57 PM #3
      I think people care about it, in my case I am watching; my digi 1 hasn't replaced my digi 2 yet (soon).


    4. Member REPOMAN's Avatar
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      07-11-2004 11:58 PM #4
      I see alot of these old corrados that are having problems that are
      tune up related, there is more to a tune up then plugs cap and rotor
      if they are committed to making there G60 a good running car then they need to step up and get dirty . go threw the whole engine bay
      and fix th little stuff that adds up. broken wires leaky hoses new
      sensors. then i would refer them to this.
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=697670
      500HP 1990 Cowrado
      Have a great Orwellian Day
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GKS...80UVORSMiYMNQg

    5. Member dubbernutter's Avatar
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      07-12-2004 12:12 AM #5
      It sounds like most people, including myself, need to get into the Bently a little more often.

      I do have an ignition timing trick that id like to share, would this be a good thread to present it??? I dont want flames!!

      It basicly a vernier(is that the right word?) for the distributer, pretty simple really.


      Modified by dubbernutter at 11:14 PM 7-11-2004


    6. 07-12-2004 10:02 AM #6
      i think i'm lucky that my father has been a mechanic for the last 30 years but had never touch a vw till i got my corrado. but he gave me good advice buy the book, learn what the major thing do and don't do and go from there. by car only has 40k but it has sat for almost 3 years. so long that the oil filter rotted. i went and replaced everything. cap, rotor, wires, plugs, filters, fluids, sent the injectors out to be cleaned and tested. it runs better now then when i bought it. i am not the most know it all person but if i see a question that i could answer i chime in with my 2 cents. but for now my answer to everything would be to try and figure it out on your own first and then if you can't ask someone. but i think it is more rewarding for yourself to have a prob, figure it out and fix it on your own and then stand back and look at your car runnin right and go damn i'm good. well i do hope this thread works out cause god knows i've could of used it a few times.

    7. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      07-12-2004 02:19 PM #7
      Quote, originally posted by dubbernutter »
      It sounds like most people, including myself, need to get into the Bently a little more often.

      I do have an ignition timing trick that id like to share, would this be a good thread to present it??? I dont want flames!!

      It basicly a vernier(is that the right word?) for the distributer, pretty simple really.


      Modified by dubbernutter at 11:14 PM 7-11-2004


      Oh man please share.
      I had hoped that this would be specifically for the tricks to making these cars run right.
      Thanks

      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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    8. 07-12-2004 03:49 PM #8
      Quote, originally posted by dubbernutter »
      It basicly a vernier(is that the right word?) for the distributer, pretty simple really.


      Modified by dubbernutter at 11:14 PM 7-11-2004

      FYI: A vernier scale is just a way of marking an instrument to make very small increments visible to the human eye. Guess the name of the guy who invented it.... Basically, it involves using the smallest increment used on the instument itself and comparing it to the vernier scale to get an even smaller incementation. Example: a caliper generally has it's smallest scale graduated every .025"... The Vernier scale next to it is graduated every .024" which gives you a .001" variation to compare. Counting the number of .024" that are off mark actually gives you the number of .001" after the last .025" mark measured.

      Well, I guess that was off topic but educationnal!!!


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      07-13-2004 01:49 AM #9
      Quote, originally posted by dubbernutter »

      You may think im crazy, and i am...

      Only thing I understood in the whole post, went right over my head.


    10. 01-08-2005 07:08 PM #10
      bringin it back...

    11. 01-09-2005 12:23 AM #11
      One other thing to make sure that Im not wure if it was mentioned, but I believe the 1 meter long hose has to go into the correct side of the mannifold.


      Also there are some awsome posts with correct timing procedures here that you may want to cut and past on a generic email to send out.

      I have an idea. On your message when your customers call you, have it say..." Press 8 to hear the the web link to find out why your g60 runs like cra p..

      Awsome idea to get this all this info in one place. Maybe you can print in on the back of all your invoices so all your customers get a copy whenever they buy anything from you. You can tell them," just look on the back of your reciept and if that doesnt do it, call me and ill sell you the parts to fix it.



    12. 01-09-2005 12:44 PM #12
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerosearch
      ^^ all your answers to why your car doesn't run, if not feel free to hit my IM button i'm usually online during the day (EST) to chat or shoot the shiz or whatever..

    13. 01-10-2005 09:51 AM #13
      I think a FAQ should be precluded with a section titled
      "So you just bought a G60 Corrado, this is what you do first."

      1. Change/test battery

      2. Change/test alternator or voltage regulator

      3. Replace battery wires with thick ones. Clean up connections.

      4. Clean up all ECU grounds. Relocate that one ground to the TB.

      5. Replace all vacuum hoses. ECU hose is of a critical 1 meter length.

      6. Replace blue coolant temp sensor. (it's cheap) If gauge is not working, replace black sensor too.

      7. Test throttle switches with a multimeter.

      8. Test resistence of the injectors and harness.

      9. Return ignition time to STOCK specs for atleast 6 months. The character of the G60 changes everyday and you need to be familiar with it before you decide to melt a piston (happens to the best of us.)
      Besides, it will only be running for 3 months during this time.

      10. Do not even look at performance parts for 8 months.

      11. Invest in a good air filter!

      12. Tighten all IC hose connections.

      13. Install an air fuel gauge Learn the difference between open and closed loop.

      14. Clean TB and ISV with carb cleaner (or whatever works for you)

      15. Replace the O-ring on the idle adjustment screw. Dont be afraid to remove the screw and get a good look at it.

      16. Fix all broken wires from the O2 sensor all the way past the first connection/harness. Ensure the O2 sensor ground wire is clean and strong.


      Something like that and then more expensive items can be tracked down in the FAQ. Like if a/f gauge isn't cycling - replace O2 sensor.

      Feel free to add more to the list.




      Modified by LooseNut at 10:09 AM 8-24-2007


    14. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      01-10-2005 12:35 PM #14
      That is one good list of basics!
      Now I can cut and paste this to the 50 people per week that call us and email us when there cars are running funky.
      Thanks
      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
      541.388.1202
      http://www.BahnBrenner.com
      we share the passion!

    15. 01-16-2005 05:34 PM #15
      Found this today,
      http://volkswagen.mskdotru/injector/digifant/digifant_tr.zip

      Trouble shooting for digifant
      replace dot with .

      Modified by starrd at 4:02 AM 4-15-2009


      Modified by starrd at 4:03 AM 4-15-2009


    16. 01-17-2005 02:40 AM #16
      Quote, originally posted by starrd »
      Found this today,

      http://volkswagen.msk.ru/injector/digifant_tr.zip

      Trouble shooting for digifant

      damn dude. thats awesome.


    17. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      05-27-2005 06:07 PM #17
      Can someone please get the ignition timing procedure in here. I know it is floating around out there somewhere.

      Thanks in advance.

      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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    18. Member JustMike's Avatar
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      05-28-2005 12:47 PM #18
      Stolen from the zip.doc

      btw grad = degree's

      Ignition timing:
      Engine at normal operating temperature, plug disconnected from coolant temperature sensor, engine speed 2000...2500 1/min, measure ignition timing (using timing light (strobe) TDC sensor).
      Set value: 4...8 Grad before TDC
      If necessary, adjust ignition timing by turning the ignition distributor.
      Set value for setting:
      5...7 Grad before TDC
      Reconnect plug to the coolant temperature sensor, accelerate three times, check idle setting.


      Ignition-timing advance:
      Measure ignition timing with engine speed n = 2500 1/min and coolant temperature sensor disconnected, and note down value. Reconnect the temperature sensor and measure the ignition timing again at n = 2500 1/min. The difference between the two values is the ignition-timing advance.
      Set value: 20...30 Grad
      If no advance is measured, either a lead to the coolant temperature sensor is open-circuited, or the control unit is defective.

      Kids are more work than Cars!

    19. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      06-03-2005 12:42 PM #19
      Thanks, you guys have been a great help!
      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
      541.388.1202
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      we share the passion!

    20. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      06-07-2005 02:51 PM #20
      Here are some belt sizes, add more if you know the sizes.
      Thanks

      Serp Belt

      W A/C Stock Conti 6PK 1755
      68mm Conti 6PK 1743
      63mm Flennor 6PK 1738
      58mm Conti 6PK 1733 (works with 53mm SC & Tensioner cap)
      53mm Conti 6PK 1715
      50mm Conti 6PK 1715

      N A/C Stock Gates K060650
      68mm Conti 6PK 1642
      58mm Conti 6PK 1623 (also use with 50-53 mm & tensioner cap)
      57mm Gates K060790 / 6PK2005
      53mm Gates K060623
      50mm Gates K060623

      16V kit
      50-53 mm No AC Conti 6PK1980
      68 mm No AC Gates K060785
      65 mm With AC 88-1/16” (2235mm) nominal 6PK2236

      V-Belt Stock Conti AVX 10+735
      No A/C Conti AVX 10+655

      No Charger
      W/AC 6PK1505 Goodyear #4060592
      No AC 6PK1255 Dayco #5060495 Would Work Better With Shorter Belt



      Modified by JBETZ at 1:27 PM 2-11-2006

      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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    21. 06-07-2005 06:13 PM #21
      ---------------------------------
      Just a general note:
      The Bentley Corrado Factory Repair Manual is as valuable a tool for the DIY G60 mechanic as anything.
      The parts I will refer to are plainly illustrated in diagrams in that manual if you're not sure what they are.

      ---------------------------------
      Basic info on Digifant fuel injection

      Advanced info on Digifant fuel injection

      ---------------------------------
      mrkrad's basic explanation of warm-up and such, related to the blue coolant temp sensor.

      Quote, originally posted by mrkrad »
      1. A car requires more fuel when dead cold.
      1a. The blue CTS tells the car its dead cold.
      1aa. The black cts is a good way to test the blue cts, swap harnesses.

      2. The car needs less fuel to idle when it has reached optimal temps (AKA WARMED UP).
      2a. faulty blue cts will dump cold start fueling when warm - aka poor mpg, no sweeping action on a/f gauge, car will bog and die.

      3. Closed loop emissions control mode is engaged when a valid signal, or BLUE CTS temperature range is met see #2a.)
      3a. the heating element in the o2 sensor warms it up in 30-60 seconds so it can accurately feed data to the ecu
      3b. the o2 wiring is usually both flex stressed and heat stressed (brittle).
      3c. failure for the ecu to see an o2 signal will assume the car is very lean, thus the car will keep adding fuel.
      3d. shorting of the o2 heating element 12V wires to the ECU INPUT 0-1V, will permanently damage the ecu and make the car run like butt.

      if you swap the blue and black cts harness, and its great, go buy a $14 blue cts, its safe to drive on the black cts, be gentle on hot days, monitor MFA OIL TEMPS for cooling system malfunction.

      if the blue cts is good, warm the car up, find the wot switch (See sig), and tape it shut. Go for a drive? Feels good? If so you have bad o2 system: wires, o2 sensor, ecu, anything in between... welcome to vw viring

      This lesson assumes you have gone to the real forum AKA G60 and done all the basics, including tune-up.

      We are capable of testing ecu's but honestly its not worth my time. My car works, and if you believe you've fried the ecu circuitry, it is possible to just drive with wot switch plugged in or chipping the ecu to not participate in emissions control, for off road purposes. race car folks dont need emissions/catalysts.

      The bucking and such is REALLY bad, especially for the tranny, motor, and motor mounts, don't drive it like that man, show some respect.

      ---------------------------------
      The Idle Switch, and its relation to the ISV:

      Quote, originally posted by mrkrad »
      it tells the isv to engage and also tells the ecu to cut fuel when you let off the gas (decel fuel cut).

      The isv does two things:
      1. holds the idle at desired idle minimum 840~'ish
      2. Engages an air leak when you clutch out so the engine rpm won't drop too fast (!!) and stall.

      at least in the states, that is all it does.

      also i think it prevents a runaway motor, if you are at idle it cuts fuel at 2500rpm or somewhere bout there, badly tuned cars will surge from 1500-2500(cut) and back and forth.


      ---------------------------------
      Setting the idle:
      Quote, originally posted by jwatts »
      leave blue coolant temp sensor connected.

      The procedureis: set to 1000rpm with ISV disconnected

      Then fine tune afterwards, if needed.

      If it stalls, or dips and revs, then you need to open the idle screw up until it smooths out.

      If the revs hang high, then you need to close it until they settle to your target idle speed.


      ---------------------------------
      Air/Fuel Gauge Behavior
      Quote, originally posted by mrkrad »
      basically once warm or acceptable signal (varies on chip)->
      1. goes to close loop which is a sweep lean to rich
      2. except when you go wot (rich lights)
      3. except when you go idle decel (no lights)
      4. there's a few other times when the car decides to hold it lean or rich for emissions purposes, shortly.

      some of the chips will go very fast based on detection of valid signal (1 minute on sub freezing day, less than 30 seconds on warm day). Other chips rely more on the blue CTS.

      ---------------------------------

      Quote, originally posted by TBT-PassatG60 »
      For timing you should be seeing around 15-18[hg -vacuum] at idle with a stock cam. If you're seeing less either your timing is retarded or you have a vacuum leak.

      ---------------------------------
      Basic Steps to Troubleshooting Bad Idle on a Corrado G60, for Beginners(What I've Done In This Situation That Has Worked For Me)


      First, do this basics to eliminate some variables:

      DEGUNK THE Idle Stabilizer Valve (ISV) - Pull it off, spray it full of brake/parts/carb cleaner. Shake it around with the cleaner inside, empty it out, repeat until the cleaner comes out clear. Remember, do not unplug the ISV with the key in the accessory or on position. THis is bad for the ECU.

      Check for vacuum leaks. There are a load of vacuum lines on the G60. The stock lines are rubber wrapped in a braided cloth, and can dry-rot and crack. I replaced all of mine, from the dealer, for less than $40. Just ask for the diameters and lengths, and they should be able to cut them for you.

      Here are the sizes, courtesy of the G60 Forum FAQ:

      3.5 mm size line: 34" (brake booster line) + 39.5" (1 meter ECU line) + 6" (FPR) + 55"(charcoal mainifold) + 30" (air box to brake booster line) = 14.3 feet

      9 mm size line: 40" (throttle body to charcoal)

      5 mm size line: = 23" (brake booster to charcoal) + 28" (fuel tank breather line to charcoal) = 4 feet 3 inches.

      That one-meter throttle-body to ECU line is important. There are two vacuum lines that go to the throttle body, and the ECU line connects to the nipple closest to the passenger side.


      Second, Look at the electrical stuff.

      Make sure there is no interruption in the spark: spark plugs/wires...make sure they are in good shape.

      There's an electrical switch on the throttle body called the "idle switch" that should click on when the throttle is closed. Not surpisingly, the car will not idle right if this switch is fouled. It actually might not even start. It shares its connection to the harness with the wide-open throttle (WOT) switch, and the plug is on the back of the throttle body.

      The fuel injector harness is in a pretty crappy place, between the head and intake manifold, where there certainly is significant heat. The insulation gets very brittle over time and there is the potential for electrical shorts. Check it.

      Look for corrosion at grounding points. Particularly the ground on the coolant flange on the (transmission) side of the cylinder head.


      Third, determine under what conditions idle is poor.

      >Is it bad when the car is cold but better when the car warms up?
      >Or is it good when the car is cold and worsens when the car gets warmed up?
      >Or is it just crappy all the time?


      >Idle Is Bad When The Car Is Cold:
      If you disconnect the blue coolant temp sensor while the engine is running and it idles better, you probably need a new blue coolant temp sensor.
      If that doesn't do it, then check the O2 sensor, check your timing and reset your idle*

      >Idle Is Bad When The Car Is Warm.
      If you disconnect the o2 sensor before or while the engine is running, and the car idles better, you probably need a new o2 sensor.
      If that doesn't do it, then check the blue cts, check your timing and reset your idle.* If the idle is set too low, then the ISV will attempt to compensate for it once the car is out of cold-start mode, and the idle will be bonkers.

      >Idle Just Sucks All The Time. Either the timing is way, way off, or you didn't set the idle right (too low).*

      *Remember, the idle won't set correctly using the idle screw if you don't have the ISV unplugged.
      And remember the method for setting the timing: The car must be warm, with the blue CTS unplugged, and the motor must be at ~2500 rpm. Set it for 6-8 degrees BTDC.

      If idle is still bad, ask the experts in the G60 tech forum and read through the G60 tech forum FAQ if you haven't already and be sure to tell them you've done the basics.


      Modified by cbgthor at 5:56 PM 3-17-2006


    22. Member JustMike's Avatar
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      06-09-2005 11:59 PM #22
      http://www.nwlink.com/~vdb/vw/Engine/G60_Idle

      Below is the procedure for setting specs on G-60 models. As you can see this is not for the DIY and you will most likely have to have a shop do it. So it's for your information and maybe Jan can add it to the FAQ's.

      Corrado Basic Engine, Checks / Adjustments

      Basic Engine Settings
      --------------------------------
      1) Check and adjust the basic engine settings in the following order:

      a) Ignition timing
      b) Idle speed / CO content

      2) Checking and adjusting conditions:

      a) Engine oil temperature must be at least 80 degrees C (176 degrees F)
      and
      radiatior fan must have operated at least once
      b) All electrical consumers switched OFF (radiator fan must not be
      running during checking or adjusting).
      c) Idle switch functioning properly
      d) Idle stabilization OK
      e) With ignition OFF, connect VW 1367 engine tester
      f) Install the voltage splitter test adaptor VAG 1473 in between the
      ignition coil and
      the VAG 1367 using the VAG 1594 adapter kit
      g) Connect SUN 105 CO tester (or EPA approved equivalent) to CO tap
      using Special Tool 6006-0019 or equivalent (high
      temperature silicon connecting hose)

      (NOTE: Non-approved hose may dramatically alter CO readings.)

      Ignition timing
      --------------------
      1) Start the engine and let idle

      2) Remove the blue connector at the coolant temperature sensor.
      The second sensor (black connector) is used for the coolant temperature
      gauge.

      3) Check ignition timing at 2000 to 2500 RPM.
      Checking: 4 degrees to 8 degrees BTDC.

      4) If adjustment is necessary, destroy tamper proof cap that covers the head
      of the distributor base clamp bolt.

      5) Loosen distributor and rotate until specification is correct. Adjusting: 6
      degrees
      1 degree BTCD.

      6) Reconnect blue connector at the coolant temperature sensor.

      7) Raise the engine speed three time then let the engine return to idle.

      8) Continue to idle speed setting.

      (NOTE: It is not necessary to install a new tamper proof cap on the
      distributor base clamp bolt.)

      Idle Speed / CO Content
      ---------------------------------
      1) Pull crankcase breather hose off pressure regulating valve and turn it so
      that only
      fresh air will be drawn in.

      2) Let engine run at idle.

      3) After approximately one minute disconnect the blue connector at the
      coolant temperature sender.

      4) Raise the engine speed four times to over 3000 RPMs and then let the
      engine return
      to idle (This cancels the hot start idle increase function).

      5) Adjust if necessary.

      6) Remove tamper resistant plug over the CO screw, rotate both adjustment
      screws
      alternately.
      --- the idle speed is 800 30 RPMs
      --- and the CO is around 1.2 %

      7) Reconnect the blue temperature sensor harness plug.

      8) Raise the engine four more times to over 3000 RPMs and then let the engine
      return to idle.

      9) Check to make sure that the CO did not go out of specs.
      --- If the CO is out of specs, check the oxygen sensor system.

      10) With the settings correct shut off the engine and reconnect the crankcase
      breather
      hose.

      11) Install a new tamper resistant plug over the CO adjustment screw.

      Kids are more work than Cars!

    23. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      07-26-2005 01:31 PM #23
      bump for Phil
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    24. Member Strictly Gravy's Avatar
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      09-22-2005 11:43 AM #24
      bump

    25. Member ButchHusky's Avatar
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      10-24-2005 08:00 PM #25
      Quote, originally posted by LooseNut »

      4. Clean up all ECU grounds. Relocate that one ground to the TB.

      I know where the ground is on the raintray, where are any other ECU grounds?

      Brian


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      10-24-2005 11:05 PM #26
      There is a ECU ground on the coolant flange on the side of the head, also one near the battery.

    27. 11-12-2005 09:31 PM #27
      Remember to watch out for digifant lag, this is commonly confused by bad grounds when it is a factory programmed delay of time to enrichment which is fine at low boost levels but is VERY dangerous at high boost levels or with devices such as lysholm or turbo which have VERY rapid onset of boost.

      You can detect this with wideband or narrow band when you mash the gas (actual digilogger data direct from ecu link):

      or watch this video. If you have the LAG, you will see a lean period while the boost kicks it:
      http://home.test-afl.tulix.com...g.WMV

      Do not confuse this issue. It was purposefully done by VW programmers on the ecu.


    28. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      02-08-2007 03:26 PM #28
      bump for Chuck
      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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    29. 02-08-2007 03:47 PM #29
      does anybody have a list of all the grounds wires. where they start and where they go.

    30. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      08-22-2007 10:10 AM #30
      Bump for the runs like: poop, have a hesitation, flat spot, runs like shat guys.
      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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    31. Member swingwing205's Avatar
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      08-22-2007 10:28 AM #31
      Also, hopefully this one hans't been covered yet....

      If your G60 runs fine one moment, then misses like crazy, check the condition of the hall switch on the distributor, lots of times it's cracked at the plug in point. One of the most common (at least it seems like it to me) probs with older G60's, yet one of the easiest to find if you have an idea that this can happen.

      The engine bay of a G60 gets REALLY hot and over time weakens stuff. This seems especially true of this part in particular.


    32. 08-24-2007 10:08 AM #32
      Quote, originally posted by JBETZ »
      Bump for the runs like: poop, have a hesitation, flat spot, runs like shat guys.

      Always look at the basics first!


    33. 08-25-2007 01:03 AM #33
      so samhow do we fix this misterious digilag?

      SNS chips?




      Modified by potatonet at 6:04 AM 8-25-2007


    34. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      03-26-2008 06:52 PM #34
      Quote, originally posted by potatonet »
      so samhow do we fix this misterious digilag?Modified by potatonet at 6:04 AM 8-25-2007


      Bump for spring tuning time.

      proper maintenance and tuning.our chips do not lag on cars that are running correctly.
      G60's need everything to be just right or they run funky.
      we have ran near mid 11's in the quarter mile on our software and we didn't do it with digilag.

      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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    35. Member
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      03-26-2008 08:37 PM #35
      i understand the concept of the oxygen sensor and the throttle position switches (idle and WOT). i have my a/f gauge working and everything is normal yet at WOT it still sweeps back and forth, im assuming that my car is still running in open loop then, when it should be closed running off of the chip's settings for WOT. is it bad to continue this way? the most i've done so far is make sure my throttle body does go to wot with the pedal at the stop and that the WOT switch actually "clicks". isnt the WOT switch the ONLY thing that tells the ecu to go into closed loop?

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