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    Thread: G60 Tuning and Common G60 Info

    1. 03-28-2008 06:33 AM #36
      yeah that would be bad. I just reprogram the chip to stop that as soon as boost is present; in the event the wot switch fails to function (maybe your case?) it doesn't really matter since the ecu software can fall back on the map sensor which makes more sense to me.

      Poor software design choice on VW imo. So i changed the design.


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      03-28-2008 08:26 PM #37
      so i need to verify via multimeter that the ecu is getting the WOT switch signal? and if it is i assume theres something wrong with the ecu?

      are you saying it IS bad for me to be going to WOT with my ecu in this state? i havent detected any bad noises, but then again the 'charger's kinda loud without the silencer and boost return, and my exhaust isnt exactly "quiet".


      Modified by nextproject at 5:27 PM 3-28-2008


    3. 03-29-2008 06:54 AM #38
      it can be as simple as the gas pedal cable being stretched out (common, should be replaced every 10 years imo) and not making full contact all the time. get a buddy to mash the gas and multimeter the wot/idle switches and make sure they are consistenly working (sometimes they like to stick shut/open) sometimes they don't make contact reliably which is easy to adjust.

      easy peasy to test mate

      i don't bank my motor on a wot switch; is what i'm saying. i think fuel enrichment should be instant when you get on boost as 12.5:1 air fuel ratio is ideal at peak torque and maybe a little richer after peak whp.


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      03-29-2008 06:24 PM #39
      is this program you're speaking of (adding fuel once it goes into boost instead of relying on WOT switch signal) already available on your site? or is this something you're working on? i'd love to get a stage 3 chip made with that program included. so you're saying that VW only adds fuel when it senses WOT switch? that IS kinda silly.

      also, i read in another post you're not doin so well, good luck with that man, i hope it all works out for you, sorry to hear about all that.

      sorry if posting this on this thread is inappropriate.


    5. Member g60racer's Avatar
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      03-30-2008 03:54 AM #40
      There's actually a pretty good post in the Corrado section FAQ on G60 driveability problems, very comprehensive.
      Brendan Prout
      04 R32 123k miles
      93 VR6 Corrado 186k miles
      90 G60 Corrado 304k miles - RIP 2/12/11

    6. Member
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      03-30-2008 08:50 AM #41
      i dont really have a driveability problem tho, i've never been happier with the way my 'rado runs. just something i've noticed regarding how my a/f gauge isnt going full rich at WOT. if i didnt have an a/f gauge i wouldnt even know its doing this.

    7. Member kda33's Avatar
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      03-31-2008 08:59 PM #42
      watch topic way too much info to read in one sitting

    8. 03-31-2008 09:04 PM #43
      Quote, originally posted by JBETZ »
      Here are some belt sizes, add more if you know the sizes.
      Thanks

      Serp Belt

      W A/C Stock Conti 6PK 1755
      68mm Conti 6PK 1743
      63mm Flennor 6PK 1738
      58mm Conti 6PK 1733 (works with 53mm SC & Tensioner cap)
      53mm Conti 6PK 1715
      50mm Conti 6PK 1715

      N A/C Stock Gates K060650
      68mm Conti 6PK 1642
      58mm Conti 6PK 1623 (also use with 50-53 mm & tensioner cap)
      57mm Gates K060790 / 6PK2005
      53mm Gates K060623
      50mm Gates K060623

      16V kit
      50-53 mm No AC Conti 6PK1980
      68 mm No AC Gates K060785
      65 mm With AC 88-1/16” (2235mm) nominal 6PK2236

      V-Belt Stock Conti AVX 10+735
      No A/C Conti AVX 10+655

      No Charger
      W/AC 6PK1505 Goodyear #4060592
      No AC 6PK1255 Dayco #5060495 Would Work Better With Shorter Belt

      Modified by JBETZ at 1:27 PM 2-11-2006


      thank you sir , just found what i was looking for . great info

      Up and Live >>> www.Herbys53.com <<< sick of the BS , check it out :thumb:
      860-798-5227 TEXT anytime
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      53Motorsports-Koni/APR/TT/Bilsteins/Oem+/Service:clap:

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      04-01-2008 07:05 PM #44
      yeah the switch works because the idle fluctuates when you depress the WOT switch while its idling. i guess it must be the cable not making good contact 100 percent of the time, may just get a new cable and adjust the switch, thanks guys.

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      12-05-2008 01:30 PM #45
      bump
      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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    11. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      12-05-2008 04:56 PM #46
      So looseNut posted a really nice list on page one.

      I don't think that this has been mentioned as a little list.

      Before you start pulling your hair out trying to get one of these cars running correctly be sure to cover your basics.

      New spark plugs Bosch W6DP0 only, don't even ask

      New Bosch cap and rotor

      New plug wires

      New fuel filter

      Replace all vacuum lines with oem cloth material in the correct size, 1M to ecu. Use mini clamps or zip ties on all connections.

      Check and tighten all of the IC boost tubes and connections.

      I always like to replace the #30 power control relay under the dash for the ecu. This part is not supposed to go bad, I've seen them cause intermittent issues.

      Now lets go back to LooseNuts list, ok here it is


      I think a FAQ should be precluded with a section titled
      "So you just bought a G60 Corrado, this is what you do first."
      1. Change/test battery

      2. Change/test alternator or voltage regulator

      3. Replace battery wires with thick ones. Clean up connections.

      4. Clean up all ECU grounds. Relocate that one ground to the TB.

      5. Replace all vacuum hoses. ECU hose is of a critical 1 meter length.

      6. Replace blue coolant temp sensor. (it's cheap) If gauge is not working, replace black sensor too.

      7. Test throttle switches with a multimeter.

      8. Test resistance of the injectors and harness.

      9. Return ignition time to STOCK specs for at least 6 months. The character of the G60 changes everyday and you need to be familiar with it before you decide to melt a piston (happens to the best of us.)
      Besides, it will only be running for 3 months during this time.

      10. Do not even look at performance parts for 8 months.

      11. Invest in a good air filter!

      12. Tighten all IC hose connections.

      13. Install an air fuel gauge Learn the difference between open and closed loop.

      14. Clean TB and ISV with carb cleaner (or whatever works for you)

      15. Replace the O-ring on the idle adjustment screw. Don't be afraid to remove the screw and get a good look at it.

      16. Fix all broken wires from the O2 sensor all the way past the first connection/harness. Ensure the O2 sensor ground wire is clean and strong.


      Something like that and then more expensive items can be tracked down in the FAQ. Like if a/f gauge isn't cycling - replace O2 sensor.

      Feel free to add more to the list.

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    12. Member builtforsin's Avatar
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      12-05-2008 07:02 PM #47
      *watch thread*


      My cars been running too good... Something is about to happen I'm sure


    13. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      12-24-2008 12:25 AM #48
      bump.... jk

      haha its a sticky now

      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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    14. 01-11-2009 08:17 PM #49
      So...What is the difference between open and closed loop?

    15. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      01-12-2009 11:27 PM #50



      Modified by JBETZ at 7:59 PM 10-26-2009
      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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      we share the passion!

    16. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      06-18-2009 12:50 PM #51
      It's been a while since I thought about this list of basics. I've recently converted to Megasquirt and have had a lot of time to review the Bentley schematics. If it still doesn't run right after you've checked the basics and did the tune-up, replace the following:

      Replace with O2 sensor if you do not know the history of the car. A previous owner may have had a bad coolant sensor that caused the engine to run rich and destroy the sensor.

      To the same effect, inspect the cat. converter for cracks or chunks while you are down there. This can fail pretty quick depending on the severity of the fueling condition.

      Replace the injector harness. At 98K, mine had some bad cracks. This can cause issues if the engine gets wet. The harness can short and not open injectors when you need the fuel the most. A resistance check will not immediately point this out.

      A new knock sensor would also be a good investment. Make sure it is torqued properly. Also, keep the wiring away from the alternator and the power wire that feeds the battery. Try to route it against insulating items.

      Also, if you know that the timing belt has been replaced, be concerned about the crank sprocket key. The bolt can loosen and strip the key way. This is what you check if you can't seem to get the timing right.

      Some people have had their Hall sensor on the distributor fail. I don't recommend immediately replacing it. Have a professional help you trouble-shoot this item. Or if you know an engineer with a USB Oscilloscope, bribe him with beer for his assistance.

      If you have hard starts due to a draining battery. Find what item is grounding by using your multimeter set to Ohms. Put one lead on battery positive (+) and the other lead on chassis ground. Pull each fuse until you have more than 300K ohms resistance. Recharge the battery and it should start up good. Find out why that accessory was grounding before re-installing the fuse.

      And if it still doesn't run right, consider the possibility of a bent ECU pin. If the chip has ever been replaced, the placement of the ECU makes it hard to get the harness connected correctly.

      It's really a pretty basic engine setup. There's not much else to go wrong. (famous last words)


    17. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      06-18-2009 01:15 PM #52
      In my above post, I mention the difficulty in testing your distributor/Hall sensor. When in reality, it's not that hard to do if all you need to know is the product of the device. Which is, your spark. (Keep in mind you must know that your coil and ECU are in good working condition and that the wiring is correct).

      This is where an Iginition Spark Tester tool comes in hand.

      To use this, remove all plugs and remove the fuel pump fuse. Put the tool on plug wire #1, ground the tool and test away. You should get about 25,000 volts during cranking.

      You can also verify the appropriate timing by using a timing light. The easiest way to get a good idea of the rough timing during cranking is to point the light at the CRANK PULLEY. Paint a white mark on the TDC mark, obviously. It should spark about 10 degrees before the TDC mark on the pulley reaches the diameter of the intermediate shaft pulley (which is about a half an inch away).


      Modified by still_a_G at 10:22 AM 6-18-2009


    18. 10-25-2009 12:04 PM #53
      I wanna make my G60 faster, i've heard of pulleys, headers, chips, but idk whats best for my babe or where to find it , any suggestions???
      Thanks any tips will be appriciate it...


      Modified by MkG60 at 9:06 AM 10-25-2009

    19. 12-09-2009 11:04 PM #54
      Hey there would you know if a corrado G60 ECU will work with G60 passat syncro wireing harness? My ECU fried in my MK1 swap.

      Thanks.


    20. 01-17-2010 02:49 AM #55
      i had same problem in my corrado and Yes it can be many things but i assure you if you are pushing more than ten lbs of boost then you need a Cam fuel pressure reg and chip that match each other.i have 16-17 psi of boost and installed bbm stage 4 kit and it made a unbeleivable differance.now it revs right up into the red zone with no hesitation but I also changed o2 sensor and that doubled my power.but if you only have 13-14 psi you can go stage 3.other than that,get back to me on what mods,psi and other things and I promise I can help but need specifics

    21. 04-12-2010 12:13 AM #56
      i am thinking about putting a g60 in my mkII gti what would i need to do it, motor mounts? wiring? tranny? fuel lines?

    22. Member
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      05-19-2010 08:45 AM #57
      Quote Originally Posted by JustMike View Post
      ---------------------------------
      1) Pull crankcase breather hose off pressure regulating valve and turn it so
      that only
      fresh air will be drawn in.

      2) Let engine run at idle.

      3) After approximately one minute disconnect the blue connector at the
      coolant temperature sender.

      4) Raise the engine speed four times to over 3000 RPMs and then let the
      engine return
      to idle (This cancels the hot start idle increase function).

      5) Adjust if necessary.

      6) Remove tamper resistant plug over the CO screw, rotate both adjustment
      screws
      alternately.
      --- the idle speed is 800 30 RPMs
      --- and the CO is around 1.2 %

      7) Reconnect the blue temperature sensor harness plug.

      8) Raise the engine four more times to over 3000 RPMs and then let the engine
      return to idle.

      9) Check to make sure that the CO did not go out of specs.
      --- If the CO is out of specs, check the oxygen sensor system.

      10) With the settings correct shut off the engine and reconnect the crankcase
      breather
      hose.

      11) Install a new tamper resistant plug over the CO adjustment screw.

      Hopefully I'm allowed to toss in a question here...? In regards to setting the CO pot sensor here I've read that it should be set to 500 Ohm when testing across the outter 2 conections. My guess is someone bought a new one from VW and saw that it was factory set for 500? I tested mine and it was 1093 Ohm so I adjusted it to 500 and reinstalled the everything runs about the same even the idle didn't fluctuate. What are we acheiving here? Something like higher the ohm's the leaner we're running and lower the richer?
      And the last question should I have adjusted it as stated above (blind i might add cause i don't have a co reader) or by pulling it cold adjusting to a factory setting and reinstall did I acheive the same resaults for a factory setting? Also I guess there are to many variables to say something like if you have a X size pulley, larger FPR, cam, chip then you should set the ohm's to 650 or something like that.....
      Just my thoughts, if I deserve a response please do or feel free to delete to keep this thread on topic. But I may copy and paste elsewhere
      Thanks!

    23. 07-14-2010 06:18 PM #58
      I have the same question as above.
      My CO i s set at 500ohm's, but since it measures air temp, setting it to 500 regardless of the outside temp doesn't make any sense at all..

      Anyone know at what air temp the co should be set at 500?

    24. Member vwuberalles2003's Avatar
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      07-23-2010 03:51 PM #59
      open loop means the car is running on a pre programmed fuel and ignition map that runs rich to encourage start up emissions, temperature heat soak in the coolant and thusly switch, based on various inputs from the o2 sensor, hall sender, co pot, etc, from open loop to closed loop control where the ecu uses the inputs from the sensors to determine the correct fuel air ignition maps to run; cold start is like automatically programmed values(open loop) which change when the cts generates the correct signal to the ecu; which triggers (closed loop) operation, where the maps used by the ecu are dictated by the various sensor inputs. Understand?

    25. Member vwuberalles2003's Avatar
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      07-25-2010 10:51 PM #60
      i had a minor question regarding the modification to the boost return system; if one were to on a slightly modified car (68mm, stg 3 chip, exhaust and intake mods) to replace the piping with a catch tank that incorporated the pcv heater element, and replace the plastic tubing with steel braided lines and attach this to the charger at the return port with a block off, would the oil blow by from the charger amount to much? would, in your experience, this mod be feasible? since the flow is not impeded in theory at least, wouldnt the operation allow oil vapor/excess boost to be returned?: ive seen mention of concern for the pcv system; id like a in depth reply, since ive been assembling parts for a modified return tract and plan on setting up. Thanks! VIVA BAHN BRENNER!

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      09-18-2010 08:02 PM #61
      does anyone know step by step how to richen or lean the fuel mixture using the co content sensor or maf? i just heard about this.. and my car is slightly lean and id like to richen it up a lil bit.

    27. Member vwuberalles2003's Avatar
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      12-04-2010 02:50 PM #62
      so.....anyone got any opinions on this???

    28. Member vwuberalles2003's Avatar
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      12-18-2010 06:47 PM #63
      Wow after researching this project, Mr.Betz, i realize why you might not have answered it-corrado owners are quite "passionate"-and the conflicting answers i have received so far have only whittled down my questions regarding the actual utility of replacing the boost return tube.
      I have started on a catch can with an fittings and a stainless hose on one side (to the charger block off with a nipple plumbed in), a bung on the top (for the pcv heater element) and a 2 inch diameter bung facing the direction of the firewall, which connects using a 2" diameter hose and fitting to the boost return. The question I have is one of simple design: should i put some type of baffle inside of this can? would a baffle be helpful in this instance? I realize, Mr.Betz, that youre a busy guy, so any help is duly appreciated. Viva Bahn Brenner! Thank you!

    29. Member germanengineering g60's Avatar
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      03-05-2011 10:37 PM #64
      I am purchasing SHOCK THERAPY PLUG WIRES from autotech and they have 2 types I need to know what type of spark plug wires to use on the corrado 8V 8/84 on or 8V to 7/84

    30. Member g60301's Avatar
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      09-13-2011 06:21 PM #65
      Quote Originally Posted by ghost_rider_x View Post
      does anybody have a list of all the grounds wires. where they start and where they go.
      .

    31. 10-20-2011 11:52 PM #66
      came across this website with a bunch of good info, everyone new to g60s or thinking of buying one should read. im not sure who the credit goes to fro writing this up but they did a great job!

      http://corradog60.tripod.com/index.html
      take it easy, relax.

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      12-26-2011 04:06 PM #67
      do you guys know from where i get the vacuum hose for the ecu? and i have a small problem.... Car was running fine then out ouf the blue it turn off while in the highway turn it on while i had speed and kept working correctly. Then park turn it off and when i got back wouldn't start. After few tries it start but REVs where bouncing and if i took my foot from accelerator it will turn off. l try again but some smog came thru my air vent. The previous ower did not know what he was doing and i can see he tried to mess with some cables but still car was working fine when this happen....
      help anyone?

    33. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      01-12-2012 11:38 AM #68
      Quote Originally Posted by eavalos15 View Post
      do you guys know from where i get the vacuum hose for the ecu? and i have a small problem.... Car was running fine then out ouf the blue it turn off while in the highway turn it on while i had speed and kept working correctly. Then park turn it off and when i got back wouldn't start. After few tries it start but REVs where bouncing and if i took my foot from accelerator it will turn off. l try again but some smog came thru my air vent. The previous ower did not know what he was doing and i can see he tried to mess with some cables but still car was working fine when this happen....
      help anyone?
      you can get the cloth hose material in the correct size from the VW dealer... we can also get it for you. we should get this stuff on our site. not sure what your other issue is there.
      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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    34. 07-07-2012 12:49 PM #69
      Hey my car completely leans out when it reaches running temperature. Bad copot maybe?

    35. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      07-07-2012 06:38 PM #70
      Quote Originally Posted by 90slow_rado View Post
      Hey my car completely leans out when it reaches running temperature. Bad copot maybe?
      afr is dependent on hp load.....no load and it should be very lean. running down freeway at cruise speed should be lean. as you make boost and power the fueling should go up.
      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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