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    Thread: G60 Tuning and Common G60 Info

    1. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      1990 16VG60 Corrado on MS2 - Turbo diesel Grand Cherokee - SR5 4Runner
      06-18-2009 12:50 PM #51
      It's been a while since I thought about this list of basics. I've recently converted to Megasquirt and have had a lot of time to review the Bentley schematics. If it still doesn't run right after you've checked the basics and did the tune-up, replace the following:
      Replace with O2 sensor if you do not know the history of the car. A previous owner may have had a bad coolant sensor that caused the engine to run rich and destroy the sensor.
      To the same effect, inspect the cat. converter for cracks or chunks while you are down there. This can fail pretty quick depending on the severity of the fueling condition.
      Replace the injector harness. At 98K, mine had some bad cracks. This can cause issues if the engine gets wet. The harness can short and not open injectors when you need the fuel the most. A resistance check will not immediately point this out.
      A new knock sensor would also be a good investment. Make sure it is torqued properly. Also, keep the wiring away from the alternator and the power wire that feeds the battery. Try to route it against insulating items.
      Also, if you know that the timing belt has been replaced, be concerned about the crank sprocket key. The bolt can loosen and strip the key way. This is what you check if you can't seem to get the timing right.
      Some people have had their Hall sensor on the distributor fail. I don't recommend immediately replacing it. Have a professional help you trouble-shoot this item. Or if you know an engineer with a USB Oscilloscope, bribe him with beer for his assistance.
      If you have hard starts due to a draining battery. Find what item is grounding by using your multimeter set to Ohms. Put one lead on battery positive (+) and the other lead on chassis ground. Pull each fuse until you have more than 300K ohms resistance. Recharge the battery and it should start up good. Find out why that accessory was grounding before re-installing the fuse.
      And if it still doesn't run right, consider the possibility of a bent ECU pin. If the chip has ever been replaced, the placement of the ECU makes it hard to get the harness connected correctly.
      It's really a pretty basic engine setup. There's not much else to go wrong. (famous last words)

    2. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      1990 16VG60 Corrado on MS2 - Turbo diesel Grand Cherokee - SR5 4Runner
      06-18-2009 01:15 PM #52
      In my above post, I mention the difficulty in testing your distributor/Hall sensor. When in reality, it's not that hard to do if all you need to know is the product of the device. Which is, your spark. (Keep in mind you must know that your coil and ECU are in good working condition and that the wiring is correct).
      This is where an Iginition Spark Tester tool comes in hand.

      To use this, remove all plugs and remove the fuel pump fuse. Put the tool on plug wire #1, ground the tool and test away. You should get about 25,000 volts during cranking.
      You can also verify the appropriate timing by using a timing light. The easiest way to get a good idea of the rough timing during cranking is to point the light at the CRANK PULLEY. Paint a white mark on the TDC mark, obviously. It should spark about 10 degrees before the TDC mark on the pulley reaches the diameter of the intermediate shaft pulley (which is about a half an inch away).


      Modified by still_a_G at 10:22 AM 6-18-2009

    3. 10-25-2009 12:04 PM #53
      I wanna make my G60 faster, i've heard of pulleys, headers, chips, but idk whats best for my babe or where to find it , any suggestions???
      Thanks any tips will be appriciate it...


      Modified by MkG60 at 9:06 AM 10-25-2009

    4. 12-09-2009 11:04 PM #54
      Hey there would you know if a corrado G60 ECU will work with G60 passat syncro wireing harness? My ECU fried in my MK1 swap.
      Thanks.

    5. 01-17-2010 02:49 AM #55
      i had same problem in my corrado and Yes it can be many things but i assure you if you are pushing more than ten lbs of boost then you need a Cam fuel pressure reg and chip that match each other.i have 16-17 psi of boost and installed bbm stage 4 kit and it made a unbeleivable differance.now it revs right up into the red zone with no hesitation but I also changed o2 sensor and that doubled my power.but if you only have 13-14 psi you can go stage 3.other than that,get back to me on what mods,psi and other things and I promise I can help but need specifics

    6. 04-12-2010 12:13 AM #56
      i am thinking about putting a g60 in my mkII gti what would i need to do it, motor mounts? wiring? tranny? fuel lines?

    7. Member
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      90 VW Corrado G60, 2010 VW Touareg V6 TDI
      05-19-2010 08:45 AM #57
      [QUOTE=JustMike;21449952]

    8. 07-14-2010 06:18 PM #58
      I have the same question as above.
      My CO i s set at 500ohm's, but since it measures air temp, setting it to 500 regardless of the outside temp doesn't make any sense at all..

      Anyone know at what air temp the co should be set at 500?

    9. Member vwuberalles2003's Avatar
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      07-23-2010 03:51 PM #59
      open loop means the car is running on a pre programmed fuel and ignition map that runs rich to encourage start up emissions, temperature heat soak in the coolant and thusly switch, based on various inputs from the o2 sensor, hall sender, co pot, etc, from open loop to closed loop control where the ecu uses the inputs from the sensors to determine the correct fuel air ignition maps to run; cold start is like automatically programmed values(open loop) which change when the cts generates the correct signal to the ecu; which triggers (closed loop) operation, where the maps used by the ecu are dictated by the various sensor inputs. Understand?

    10. Member vwuberalles2003's Avatar
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      07-25-2010 10:51 PM #60
      i had a minor question regarding the modification to the boost return system; if one were to on a slightly modified car (68mm, stg 3 chip, exhaust and intake mods) to replace the piping with a catch tank that incorporated the pcv heater element, and replace the plastic tubing with steel braided lines and attach this to the charger at the return port with a block off, would the oil blow by from the charger amount to much? would, in your experience, this mod be feasible? since the flow is not impeded in theory at least, wouldnt the operation allow oil vapor/excess boost to be returned?: ive seen mention of concern for the pcv system; id like a in depth reply, since ive been assembling parts for a modified return tract and plan on setting up. Thanks! VIVA BAHN BRENNER!

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      09-18-2010 08:02 PM #61
      does anyone know step by step how to richen or lean the fuel mixture using the co content sensor or maf? i just heard about this.. and my car is slightly lean and id like to richen it up a lil bit.

    12. Member vwuberalles2003's Avatar
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      12-04-2010 02:50 PM #62
      so.....anyone got any opinions on this???

    13. Member vwuberalles2003's Avatar
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      12-18-2010 06:47 PM #63
      Wow after researching this project, Mr.Betz, i realize why you might not have answered it-corrado owners are quite "passionate"-and the conflicting answers i have received so far have only whittled down my questions regarding the actual utility of replacing the boost return tube.
      I have started on a catch can with an fittings and a stainless hose on one side (to the charger block off with a nipple plumbed in), a bung on the top (for the pcv heater element) and a 2 inch diameter bung facing the direction of the firewall, which connects using a 2" diameter hose and fitting to the boost return. The question I have is one of simple design: should i put some type of baffle inside of this can? would a baffle be helpful in this instance? I realize, Mr.Betz, that youre a busy guy, so any help is duly appreciated. Viva Bahn Brenner! Thank you!

    14. Member germanengineering g60's Avatar
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      03-05-2011 10:37 PM #64
      I am purchasing SHOCK THERAPY PLUG WIRES from autotech and they have 2 types I need to know what type of spark plug wires to use on the corrado 8V 8/84 on or 8V to 7/84

    15. Member g60301's Avatar
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      09-13-2011 06:21 PM #65
      Quote Originally Posted by ghost_rider_x View Post
      does anybody have a list of all the grounds wires. where they start and where they go.
      .

    16. 10-20-2011 11:52 PM #66
      came across this website with a bunch of good info, everyone new to g60s or thinking of buying one should read. im not sure who the credit goes to fro writing this up but they did a great job!

      http://corradog60.tripod.com/index.html
      take it easy, relax.

    17. Member
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      12-26-2011 04:06 PM #67
      do you guys know from where i get the vacuum hose for the ecu? and i have a small problem.... Car was running fine then out ouf the blue it turn off while in the highway turn it on while i had speed and kept working correctly. Then park turn it off and when i got back wouldn't start. After few tries it start but REVs where bouncing and if i took my foot from accelerator it will turn off. l try again but some smog came thru my air vent. The previous ower did not know what he was doing and i can see he tried to mess with some cables but still car was working fine when this happen....
      help anyone?

    18. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      01-12-2012 11:38 AM #68
      Quote Originally Posted by eavalos15 View Post
      do you guys know from where i get the vacuum hose for the ecu? and i have a small problem.... Car was running fine then out ouf the blue it turn off while in the highway turn it on while i had speed and kept working correctly. Then park turn it off and when i got back wouldn't start. After few tries it start but REVs where bouncing and if i took my foot from accelerator it will turn off. l try again but some smog came thru my air vent. The previous ower did not know what he was doing and i can see he tried to mess with some cables but still car was working fine when this happen....
      help anyone?
      you can get the cloth hose material in the correct size from the VW dealer... we can also get it for you. we should get this stuff on our site. not sure what your other issue is there.
      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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    19. 07-07-2012 12:49 PM #69
      Hey my car completely leans out when it reaches running temperature. Bad copot maybe?

    20. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      07-07-2012 06:38 PM #70
      Quote Originally Posted by 90slow_rado View Post
      Hey my car completely leans out when it reaches running temperature. Bad copot maybe?
      afr is dependent on hp load.....no load and it should be very lean. running down freeway at cruise speed should be lean. as you make boost and power the fueling should go up.
      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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    21. 07-08-2012 08:40 PM #71
      Quote Originally Posted by JBETZ View Post
      afr is dependent on hp load.....no load and it should be very lean. running down freeway at cruise speed should be lean. as you make boost and power the fueling should go up.
      Actually leans out under load ha, i'm stumped. Leans out quite a bit too, almost to where i can't move leaving a red light etc.

    22. Forum Sponsor JBETZ's Avatar
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      07-09-2012 04:56 PM #72
      that's no good, how do you know you are lean and not something else? did you do everything in this thread?
      BBM -Bahn Brenner Motorsport
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    23. Member
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      09-22-2012 05:10 PM #73
      Not sure if I missed it..but concerning the ecu vacuum hose. Quick searches have resulted in an affirmative "must be exactly 1m" in length.

      The reasons given are wavelength frequency of the pressure/vacuum pulses, to pressure exerted, to distance/time lag to map properly...take your pick I guess.

      Considering that the stock G60 hose connects to the t-body directly after the venturis (so in essence it is connected to the intake manifold), must it be 1m from that point, or 1m from anywhere on the intake manifold?

      reason is I'm trying to run the G60 engine mgmt on my 16v turbo (for now, later I'll go MS). Current setup has the ecu's vacuum hose in silicon 3.5mm ID. The length is 1.1m and it's currently hooked up to the far side (opposite side of the t-body) on a 'log' intake manifold. So, technically it's much farther away from the t-body..but shouldn't the vacuum reading be the same throughout the entire intake manifold?

      What is the correlation between hose length and performance? Has anyone conducted any empirical tests (dyno) to show the effect of using various lengths of ecu vacuum hose? If not, how can anyone say that it has to be 1m exactly?

    24. Member
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      11-07-2012 06:45 AM #74
      Quote Originally Posted by big_hot_tamale View Post
      Has anyone conducted any empirical tests (dyno) to show the effect of using various lengths of ecu vacuum hose? If not, how can anyone say that it has to be 1m exactly?
      Let me tell ya, never done anything with a dyno but I've tinkered around quite a bit due to curiosity with these things.. I was always concerned about it not being "exactly 1m" because of the plastic connectors you use to put them on the hose nipple; thinking they would throw it off.

      In addition to that I was always concerned about the width of the hose itself.

      Been an inch or so off one time, couldn't notice a difference. Changed the width, still no difference. Maybe I'm crazy but as long as its within a half inch range- maybe more- my g60 ran fine.

    25. 12-19-2012 10:28 PM #75
      Alright... we've been picking away at this for two days so I figured I'd post up asking. Seeing as G60 info is few and far in between, and very inconsistent.... hopefully this will help someone else out some day.

      I have a 92 golf with a G60 in it, it was running a 68mm pulley and was otherwise stock. Brand new O2, and everything else seemed to work well. Car worked great. Put a BBM stage 2 on it and took it for a drive. Worked even better, blew the head gasket in under 5km, so bad that it wouldn't start. Had to plane the head 8 thou, put in new lifters, and the engine appeared to be otherwise fine (valves tested, newish pistons).

      So as of now I have
      -bbm stage 2 with a 68mm pulley and stock cam
      -header into 2.25" with a new O2
      -New boost piping
      -All new seals, a lot of new bolts, everything tightened to spec
      -New air filter
      -Engine is at 8.15:1 CR
      -91 octane (nothing higher available)
      -cam timing is off a fraction of a tooth from planing.
      -everything else is timed up well

      The car simply won't run. It'll idle but it's all over the place, misses, and struggles to recover if you rev it. It'll drive okay through the gears and misses less as RPM increases, but it's completely messed at any level of throttle. We're assuming a problem with the TPS (which didn't exist prior), as the wiring is questionable, but that would only affect idle and WOT?

      Does anyone have info on the TPS, which pin is which, which wire goes where. There's signal, ground, and 5V. Stock wiring, manual car.


      next in line is pulling wires and checking compression.


      10psi in cylinder 4, ~120 in cylinder 3 guess I found the problem
      Last edited by etta gli; 01-05-2013 at 12:25 PM.
      Quote Originally Posted by Mk1Madness View Post
      Paint, charcoal and crayons don't cause holes and deteriorate metal you effing nancy.

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