There is a ECU ground on the coolant flange on the side of the head, also one near the battery.
Remember to watch out for digifant lag, this is commonly confused by bad grounds when it is a factory programmed delay of time to enrichment which is fine at low boost levels but is VERY dangerous at high boost levels or with devices such as lysholm or turbo which have VERY rapid onset of boost.
You can detect this with wideband or narrow band when you mash the gas (actual digilogger data direct from ecu link):
or watch this video. If you have the LAG, you will see a lean period while the boost kicks it:
Do not confuse this issue. It was purposefully done by VW programmers on the ecu.
Also, hopefully this one hans't been covered yet....
If your G60 runs fine one moment, then misses like crazy, check the condition of the hall switch on the distributor, lots of times it's cracked at the plug in point. One of the most common (at least it seems like it to me) probs with older G60's, yet one of the easiest to find if you have an idea that this can happen.
The engine bay of a G60 gets REALLY hot and over time weakens stuff. This seems especially true of this part in particular.
Quote, originally posted by potatonet » so samhow do we fix this misterious digilag?Modified by potatonet at 6:04 AM 8-25-2007
Bump for spring tuning time.
proper maintenance and tuning.our chips do not lag on cars that are running correctly.
G60's need everything to be just right or they run funky.
we have ran near mid 11's in the quarter mile on our software and we didn't do it with digilag.
i understand the concept of the oxygen sensor and the throttle position switches (idle and WOT). i have my a/f gauge working and everything is normal yet at WOT it still sweeps back and forth, im assuming that my car is still running in open loop then, when it should be closed running off of the chip's settings for WOT. is it bad to continue this way? the most i've done so far is make sure my throttle body does go to wot with the pedal at the stop and that the WOT switch actually "clicks". isnt the WOT switch the ONLY thing that tells the ecu to go into closed loop?
yeah that would be bad. I just reprogram the chip to stop that as soon as boost is present; in the event the wot switch fails to function (maybe your case?) it doesn't really matter since the ecu software can fall back on the map sensor which makes more sense to me.
Poor software design choice on VW imo. So i changed the design.
so i need to verify via multimeter that the ecu is getting the WOT switch signal? and if it is i assume theres something wrong with the ecu?
are you saying it IS bad for me to be going to WOT with my ecu in this state? i havent detected any bad noises, but then again the 'charger's kinda loud without the silencer and boost return, and my exhaust isnt exactly "quiet".
Modified by nextproject at 5:27 PM 3-28-2008
it can be as simple as the gas pedal cable being stretched out (common, should be replaced every 10 years imo) and not making full contact all the time. get a buddy to mash the gas and multimeter the wot/idle switches and make sure they are consistenly working (sometimes they like to stick shut/open) sometimes they don't make contact reliably which is easy to adjust.
easy peasy to test mate
i don't bank my motor on a wot switch; is what i'm saying. i think fuel enrichment should be instant when you get on boost as 12.5:1 air fuel ratio is ideal at peak torque and maybe a little richer after peak whp.
is this program you're speaking of (adding fuel once it goes into boost instead of relying on WOT switch signal) already available on your site? or is this something you're working on? i'd love to get a stage 3 chip made with that program included. so you're saying that VW only adds fuel when it senses WOT switch? that IS kinda silly.
also, i read in another post you're not doin so well, good luck with that man, i hope it all works out for you, sorry to hear about all that.
sorry if posting this on this thread is inappropriate.
Quote, originally posted by JBETZ » Here are some belt sizes, add more if you know the sizes.
W A/C Stock Conti 6PK 1755
68mm Conti 6PK 1743
63mm Flennor 6PK 1738
58mm Conti 6PK 1733 (works with 53mm SC & Tensioner cap)
53mm Conti 6PK 1715
50mm Conti 6PK 1715
N A/C Stock Gates K060650
68mm Conti 6PK 1642
58mm Conti 6PK 1623 (also use with 50-53 mm & tensioner cap)
57mm Gates K060790 / 6PK2005
53mm Gates K060623
50mm Gates K060623
50-53 mm No AC Conti 6PK1980
68 mm No AC Gates K060785
65 mm With AC 88-1/16” (2235mm) nominal 6PK2236
V-Belt Stock Conti AVX 10+735
No A/C Conti AVX 10+655
W/AC 6PK1505 Goodyear #4060592
No AC 6PK1255 Dayco #5060495 Would Work Better With Shorter Belt
Modified by JBETZ at 1:27 PM 2-11-2006
thank you sir , just found what i was looking for . great info [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
Supporting Koni Since I could drive.
So looseNut posted a really nice list on page one.
I don't think that this has been mentioned as a little list.
Before you start pulling your hair out trying to get one of these cars running correctly be sure to cover your basics.
New spark plugs Bosch W6DP0 only, don't even ask
New Bosch cap and rotor
New plug wires
New fuel filter
Replace all vacuum lines with oem cloth material in the correct size, 1M to ecu. Use mini clamps or zip ties on all connections.
Check and tighten all of the IC boost tubes and connections.
I always like to replace the #30 power control relay under the dash for the ecu. This part is not supposed to go bad, I've seen them cause intermittent issues.
Now lets go back to LooseNuts list, ok here it is
I think a FAQ should be precluded with a section titled
"So you just bought a G60 Corrado, this is what you do first."
1. Change/test battery
2. Change/test alternator or voltage regulator
3. Replace battery wires with thick ones. Clean up connections.
4. Clean up all ECU grounds. Relocate that one ground to the TB.
5. Replace all vacuum hoses. ECU hose is of a critical 1 meter length.
6. Replace blue coolant temp sensor. (it's cheap) If gauge is not working, replace black sensor too.
7. Test throttle switches with a multimeter.
8. Test resistance of the injectors and harness.
9. Return ignition time to STOCK specs for at least 6 months. The character of the G60 changes everyday and you need to be familiar with it before you decide to melt a piston (happens to the best of us.)
Besides, it will only be running for 3 months during this time.
10. Do not even look at performance parts for 8 months.
11. Invest in a good air filter!
12. Tighten all IC hose connections.
13. Install an air fuel gauge Learn the difference between open and closed loop.
14. Clean TB and ISV with carb cleaner (or whatever works for you)
15. Replace the O-ring on the idle adjustment screw. Don't be afraid to remove the screw and get a good look at it.
16. Fix all broken wires from the O2 sensor all the way past the first connection/harness. Ensure the O2 sensor ground wire is clean and strong.
Something like that and then more expensive items can be tracked down in the FAQ. Like if a/f gauge isn't cycling - replace O2 sensor.
Feel free to add more to the list.