G60 Tuning and Common G60 Info

[90slow_rado]

afr is dependent on hp load.....no load and it should be very lean. running down freeway at cruise speed should be lean. as you make boost and power the fueling should go up.

Actually leans out under load ha, i'm stumped. Leans out quite a bit too, almost to where i can't move leaving a red light etc.

[JBETZ]

that's no good, how do you know you are lean and not something else? did you do everything in this thread?

[big_hot_tamale]

Not sure if I missed it..but concerning the ecu vacuum hose. Quick searches have resulted in an affirmative "must be exactly 1m" in length.

The reasons given are wavelength frequency of the pressure/vacuum pulses, to pressure exerted, to distance/time lag to map properly...take your pick I guess.

Considering that the stock G60 hose connects to the t-body directly after the venturis (so in essence it is connected to the intake manifold), must it be 1m from that point, or 1m from anywhere on the intake manifold?

reason is I'm trying to run the G60 engine mgmt on my 16v turbo (for now, later I'll go MS). Current setup has the ecu's vacuum hose in silicon 3.5mm ID. The length is 1.1m and it's currently hooked up to the far side (opposite side of the t-body) on a 'log' intake manifold. So, technically it's much farther away from the t-body..but shouldn't the vacuum reading be the same throughout the entire intake manifold?

What is the correlation between hose length and performance? Has anyone conducted any empirical tests (dyno) to show the effect of using various lengths of ecu vacuum hose? If not, how can anyone say that it has to be 1m exactly?

[KirinC]

Has anyone conducted any empirical tests (dyno) to show the effect of using various lengths of ecu vacuum hose? If not, how can anyone say that it has to be 1m exactly?

Let me tell ya, never done anything with a dyno but I've tinkered around quite a bit due to curiosity with these things.. I was always concerned about it not being "exactly 1m" because of the plastic connectors you use to put them on the hose nipple; thinking they would throw it off.

In addition to that I was always concerned about the width of the hose itself.

Been an inch or so off one time, couldn't notice a difference. Changed the width, still no difference. Maybe I'm crazy but as long as its within a half inch range- maybe more- my g60 ran fine.

[etta gli]

Alright... we've been picking away at this for two days so I figured I'd post up asking. Seeing as G60 info is few and far in between, and very inconsistent.... hopefully this will help someone else out some day.

I have a 92 golf with a G60 in it, it was running a 68mm pulley and was otherwise stock. Brand new O2, and everything else seemed to work well. Car worked great. Put a BBM stage 2 on it and took it for a drive. Worked even better, blew the head gasket in under 5km, so bad that it wouldn't start. Had to plane the head 8 thou, put in new lifters, and the engine appeared to be otherwise fine (valves tested, newish pistons).

So as of now I have
-bbm stage 2 with a 68mm pulley and stock cam
-header into 2.25" with a new O2
-New boost piping
-All new seals, a lot of new bolts, everything tightened to spec
-New air filter
-Engine is at 8.15:1 CR
-91 octane (nothing higher available)
-cam timing is off a fraction of a tooth from planing.
-everything else is timed up well

The car simply won't run. It'll idle but it's all over the place, misses, and struggles to recover if you rev it. It'll drive okay through the gears and misses less as RPM increases, but it's completely messed at any level of throttle. We're assuming a problem with the TPS (which didn't exist prior), as the wiring is questionable, but that would only affect idle and WOT?

Does anyone have info on the TPS, which pin is which, which wire goes where. There's signal, ground, and 5V. Stock wiring, manual car.


next in line is pulling wires and checking compression.


10psi in cylinder 4, ~120 in cylinder 3 guess I found the problem