Well here are pictures from my weekend project of changing out the N91 & N281 Solenoids in my '02 Jetta 1.8T Tip and a Fluid change also.
To start, get the car up on jackstands and ramps as I did, or 4 jackstands. Just make sure the car is perfectly level. That way when you check the level of the fluid later, it will be accurate. Also if you are going to open the trans up as I did, my recommendation is to use a pressure wand like at the coin op car wash to get everything really clean on the outside.
I used the hose at home and Castrol Super Clean. Any cleaner will do, you just want to make sure no road debris can fall into the trans. I also removed the Battery and tray to make sure all was as clean as possible. It also helps to remove the plastic tray from underneath the car, it needs to come out anyhow. Just as a point of reference a replacement trans from the dealer runs $6500-6800 new and about $4500 rebuilt. So keep it clean, so you have no problems.
I used a Carpenters level on the radiator core support for side to side level and on the drivers door sill to check front to back level. Once the car was level, I removed the Battery & tray as well as the Airbox, so there is plenty of room to work on top. The airbox doesn't have to come out, but it makes life easier.
Car on Ramps and Jackstands
Level on door sill
Battery and Tray removed
Next I removed the left front wheel, the inner fender liner and the side splash shield to allow for better access. You dont need to do this for just a fluid change, but if you are going to remove the pan, I feel it makes life easier.
Side Splash shield removed
Next thing is to go under the car and remove the drain plug to drain the trans. It seems that you will collect about 3 liters of fluid in the drain pan, sjoback reported 3.5 liters I believe. Just use a clean pail so you can measure what actually came out, by pooring it back into the trans fluid bottles. Use G 052 990 A2 fluid only. Available at Impex for $16.25 per liter, cheapest price I have found so far.
Remove this plug to drain
Comes out like this
Drain Plug magnet, crud from 1st drain interval
The next step is to remove all the crap out of the way. I started by removing the hard steel line from the trans pan and the side mount on the trans. Leave the line connected, just move it out of the way. A zip tie works good to keep it out of the way. There is also a couple of sheetmetal mounts on the pan to support the wiring looms that pass in front of the pan, just tuck the looms out of the way.You will need all the room you can get to remove the pan. It is very cramped so patience is your friend here.
Here is why you need to move all this stuff
Wiring looms that need to be moved
Remove this bracket and the one on the side of the trans in second picture.
Also remove this mount
A zip tie is your friend
Next I went back up top and removed the shift linkage and the multifunction switch, because it hangs over the pan. Note the position of the bolts, so you won't have to buy the special tool to re align the multifunction switch. Also remove the black plastic vent cap so you can remove the bolt that is near it. Just pry up on it gently and it will pop right off.
Next I went back down underneath and put a ratcheting tie down over the inner left CV joint and the crossmember. No need to remove the left side mount but the pendelum mount (aka dogbone) needs to come out so the tie down will move the trans back a couple of inches. You will need all the room you can get. the pan is a real biatch to get out and patience is your friend. There are many small wires that can be damaged if you are not careful. I don't even want to think about replacing the internal wiring harness.
Multifunction switch with linkage removed
Selector shaft with switch removed
Tie down over CV
Sub frame view of Tie Down
Next remove the pan that covers the valve body. I placed a drain pan under it to catch fluid. Suprisingly, very little fluid came out when removing the pan. Just a small bathroom size dixie cups amount of fluid came out. The pan must come out from the bottom, but you will need to work from the top to remove it so you don't snag any wires on the valve body. another thing is you will need to jiggle the power steering hose and wring looms to get the clearance needed to remove the pan. Take your time here. As the next picture shows the vent tube extends into the trans from the pan and is the major reason the pan is so difficult to remove. Also check out how the paint is missing internally on the pan and bubbled up. That can't be good, so I wire brushed all loose paint off and thoroughly cleaned it out inside of the pan.
Inside view of pan
The next couple of pictures just show random views of the valve body and solenoids. Unfortunately there is not much room to take pictures so I had to use an inspection mirror to get the shots. Sorry they are so small but it was the best I could do.
Valve Body Top View
Valve Body Bottom View
Side view from wheel well opening of valve body
Here are the new solenoids and strainer. I have now verified the strainer can't be changed without major dis-assembly. I mean splitting the trans case apart. That just isn't going to happen at this time in my life and the Solenoids seem to have accomplished my goals at improving the shifting habits of my trans.
N281 Solenoid, controls brake B3for smoooth downshifts
N91 Solenoid, controls torque coverter lockup function
N91 Solenoids Old & New
Strainer aka Filter
Here are pictures of the fluid and parts I used. I won't go into to much detail on the refill as sjoback covered it in his thread very thoroughly to I might add. Here is a Link to 09A Fluid change thread.
Fluid and misc parts used, last picture shows clean versus dirty fluid.
I changed another couple of Solenoids N93 & N283
Here is the N283 Solenoid
And this is N93 Solenoid P/N 09A 927 331 H
That's all for now, I hope this helps and encourages others to feel confident enough to Rip into that Tip.
Modified by coolvdub at 6:36 PM 8-4-2004
Modified by coolvdub at 9:04 PM 8-4-2004
Modified by coolvdub at 9:09 PM 8-4-2004
Modified by coolvdub at 8:05 PM 11-6-2004
Modified by coolvdub at 6:34 PM 12-15-2008