Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
    Results 1 to 35 of 236

    Thread: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic

    Hybrid View

    1. Member coolvdub's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 19th, 2000
      Location
      California City,CA
      Posts
      2,237
      Vehicles
      '02 Jetta GLS, reigning high mile champ 371,675k miles and counting
      08-01-2004 05:55 PM #1
      Well here are pictures from my weekend project of changing out the N91 & N281 Solenoids in my '02 Jetta 1.8T Tip and a Fluid change also.

      To start, get the car up on jackstands and ramps as I did, or 4 jackstands. Just make sure the car is perfectly level. That way when you check the level of the fluid later, it will be accurate. Also if you are going to open the trans up as I did, my recommendation is to use a pressure wand like at the coin op car wash to get everything really clean on the outside.

      I used the hose at home and Castrol Super Clean. Any cleaner will do, you just want to make sure no road debris can fall into the trans. I also removed the Battery and tray to make sure all was as clean as possible. It also helps to remove the plastic tray from underneath the car, it needs to come out anyhow. Just as a point of reference a replacement trans from the dealer runs $6500-6800 new and about $4500 rebuilt. So keep it clean, so you have no problems.

      I used a Carpenters level on the radiator core support for side to side level and on the drivers door sill to check front to back level. Once the car was level, I removed the Battery & tray as well as the Airbox, so there is plenty of room to work on top. The airbox doesn't have to come out, but it makes life easier.

      Car on Ramps and Jackstands


      Level on door sill

      Battery and Tray removed

      Next I removed the left front wheel, the inner fender liner and the side splash shield to allow for better access. You dont need to do this for just a fluid change, but if you are going to remove the pan, I feel it makes life easier.

      Wheel off

      Side Splash shield removed

      Next thing is to go under the car and remove the drain plug to drain the trans. It seems that you will collect about 3 liters of fluid in the drain pan, sjoback reported 3.5 liters I believe. Just use a clean pail so you can measure what actually came out, by pooring it back into the trans fluid bottles. Use G 052 990 A2 fluid only. Available at Impex for $16.25 per liter, cheapest price I have found so far.

      Remove this plug to drain

      Comes out like this

      Drain Plug magnet, crud from 1st drain interval

      The next step is to remove all the crap out of the way. I started by removing the hard steel line from the trans pan and the side mount on the trans. Leave the line connected, just move it out of the way. A zip tie works good to keep it out of the way. There is also a couple of sheetmetal mounts on the pan to support the wiring looms that pass in front of the pan, just tuck the looms out of the way.You will need all the room you can get to remove the pan. It is very cramped so patience is your friend here.

      Here is why you need to move all this stuff

      Wiring looms that need to be moved

      Remove this bracket and the one on the side of the trans in second picture.

      Also remove this mount

      A zip tie is your friend

      Next I went back up top and removed the shift linkage and the multifunction switch, because it hangs over the pan. Note the position of the bolts, so you won't have to buy the special tool to re align the multifunction switch. Also remove the black plastic vent cap so you can remove the bolt that is near it. Just pry up on it gently and it will pop right off.

      Next I went back down underneath and put a ratcheting tie down over the inner left CV joint and the crossmember. No need to remove the left side mount but the pendelum mount (aka dogbone) needs to come out so the tie down will move the trans back a couple of inches. You will need all the room you can get. the pan is a real biatch to get out and patience is your friend. There are many small wires that can be damaged if you are not careful. I don't even want to think about replacing the internal wiring harness.

      Multifunction switch with linkage removed

      Selector shaft with switch removed

      Tie down over CV

      Sub frame view of Tie Down

      Next remove the pan that covers the valve body. I placed a drain pan under it to catch fluid. Suprisingly, very little fluid came out when removing the pan. Just a small bathroom size dixie cups amount of fluid came out. The pan must come out from the bottom, but you will need to work from the top to remove it so you don't snag any wires on the valve body. another thing is you will need to jiggle the power steering hose and wring looms to get the clearance needed to remove the pan. Take your time here. As the next picture shows the vent tube extends into the trans from the pan and is the major reason the pan is so difficult to remove. Also check out how the paint is missing internally on the pan and bubbled up. That can't be good, so I wire brushed all loose paint off and thoroughly cleaned it out inside of the pan.

      Inside view of pan

      The next couple of pictures just show random views of the valve body and solenoids. Unfortunately there is not much room to take pictures so I had to use an inspection mirror to get the shots. Sorry they are so small but it was the best I could do.


      Valve Body Top View

      Valve Body Bottom View

      Side view from wheel well opening of valve body

      Here are the new solenoids and strainer. I have now verified the strainer can't be changed without major dis-assembly. I mean splitting the trans case apart. That just isn't going to happen at this time in my life and the Solenoids seem to have accomplished my goals at improving the shifting habits of my trans.

      N281 Solenoid, controls brake B3for smoooth downshifts

      N91 Solenoid, controls torque coverter lockup function


      N91 Solenoids Old & New

      Strainer aka Filter

      Here are pictures of the fluid and parts I used. I won't go into to much detail on the refill as sjoback covered it in his thread very thoroughly to I might add. Here is a Link to 09A Fluid change thread.

      Fluid and misc parts used, last picture shows clean versus dirty fluid.

      Update 11/06/2004
      I changed another couple of Solenoids N93 & N283

      Here is the N283 Solenoid

      And this is N93 Solenoid P/N 09A 927 331 H

      That's all for now, I hope this helps and encourages others to feel confident enough to Rip into that Tip.


      Modified by coolvdub at 6:36 PM 8-4-2004


      Modified by coolvdub at 9:04 PM 8-4-2004


      Modified by coolvdub at 9:09 PM 8-4-2004


      Modified by coolvdub at 8:05 PM 11-6-2004


      Modified by coolvdub at 6:34 PM 12-15-2008

      Don

      CANCER SUCKS but KAISER SUCKS MORE/But so far I kicked it's ASS

    2. 08-02-2004 08:26 AM #2
      Teaser is the right word!!!
      Keep the good work up!

    3. 08-03-2004 01:00 AM #3
      Quick question, were you over 60k miles??

    4. Member coolvdub's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 19th, 2000
      Location
      California City,CA
      Posts
      2,237
      Vehicles
      '02 Jetta GLS, reigning high mile champ 371,675k miles and counting
      08-03-2004 02:10 AM #4
      Yep, 167,006. I'm a long distance commuter.


      Modified by coolvdub at 7:47 PM 8-3-2004
      Don

      CANCER SUCKS but KAISER SUCKS MORE/But so far I kicked it's ASS

    5. 08-04-2004 04:33 AM #5
      WOW, I did 200kkm in 7 years.
      Do you live in that Jetta????

      BTW:
      For that kind of mileage per year (day) here in Europe everybody takes the TDI.
      Diesel costs up to 30% less than 98 gasoline.

      And TDI's are less than 2000 USD more expensive – some BMW-s are even – 530d and 525i for example.

      In France, Austria and Germany almost 50% of new sold cars are diesel engined.

      I belive that less than 1% of cars in EU are above 2,5 liter engined and gasoline powered, percentage of automatic droven cars isn't above 5%.


      Did you open your tipp to change the filter yet????
      Bye.


    6. Member coolvdub's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 19th, 2000
      Location
      California City,CA
      Posts
      2,237
      Vehicles
      '02 Jetta GLS, reigning high mile champ 371,675k miles and counting
      08-04-2004 10:34 PM #6
      Quote, originally posted by vwdrajver »

      Did you open your tipp to change the filter yet????
      Bye.

      No, I didn't. I have it on good authority, information provided by one VW Tech and also second hand from a guy who has a friend that is the head engineer for the Tip for VWOA that the transaxle must be completely dis-assembled to remove the filter. Since my trans is shifting much better now since I replaced the N91 & N281 Solenoids, I have decided this is not needed right now. Also based on the fact that I have seen the size of the strainer now, and it is quite large. My feelings are you would have to have some major failure to plug the strainer. I feel (my opinion only) that the engineers left plenty of headroom in terms of filtering capacity. I will post up a picture later showing the size.

      Don

      CANCER SUCKS but KAISER SUCKS MORE/But so far I kicked it's ASS

    7. 01-11-2005 04:40 AM #7
      Do all those solenoids just get sloshed with hydraulic oil at 90-100 deg. Celsius? Sheesh, I'm surprised they last as long as they do.

    8. Member coolvdub's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 19th, 2000
      Location
      California City,CA
      Posts
      2,237
      Vehicles
      '02 Jetta GLS, reigning high mile champ 371,675k miles and counting
      01-11-2005 10:04 PM #8
      Yes they are in the hot fluid.
      Don

      CANCER SUCKS but KAISER SUCKS MORE/But so far I kicked it's ASS

    9. 01-02-2009 12:55 PM #9

    10. 01-11-2005 03:49 AM #10
      eeech! I'll take a solenoid repair any day on my '93 over that. great info though, thank you for posting! been there....

    11. 01-13-2005 07:12 AM #11
      ok i didn't exactly ready the whole thread, but are there part numbers for the parts I needs to do this?

      And also, is there any specific reason worth doing this?

      Is there anything faulty with my existing solenoid on my 02.5 1.8t tiptronic?

      As of now, I don't have any problems with my transmission, but I would like it to perform better when roadracing/ autoxing. I already ordered most of the things I need for an ATF change. should I just change these out too? thanks.


    12. Member coolvdub's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 19th, 2000
      Location
      California City,CA
      Posts
      2,237
      Vehicles
      '02 Jetta GLS, reigning high mile champ 371,675k miles and counting
      01-13-2005 03:02 PM #12
      If your transmission is working okay, you don't need to change anything. I was having some problems with my transmission. I have 197,571 miles on my car already so I am experiencing problems that nobody else will probably ever see. Just change the fluid every 40-50k and tou will be fine.
      Don

      CANCER SUCKS but KAISER SUCKS MORE/But so far I kicked it's ASS

    13. Member Seanathan's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 1st, 2002
      Location
      Scottsdale, AZ
      Posts
      9,235
      Vehicles
      1999 MKIV Jetta VR6 - 2002 MKIV Jetta 1.8T - w/ GT28r - 2008 MKV GTI - 2011 GTI w/ APR K04
      01-29-2005 06:35 AM #13
      Bump. I'm very interested in the outcome of those oil samples.

    14. 02-03-2005 09:36 PM #14
      I have just now discovered this (auto tranny) forum. WOW! way cool...

      coolvdub: How did you come about the info of the different types of solenoids and their function? I would love to have this info for my long-engine Passat tip tranny (01V, I think). Where is this stuff documented? It's not in my Bentley...

      - Rusty


    15. Member coolvdub's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 19th, 2000
      Location
      California City,CA
      Posts
      2,237
      Vehicles
      '02 Jetta GLS, reigning high mile champ 371,675k miles and counting
      02-03-2005 09:58 PM #15
      RR,
      I got the information from this websitehttps://erwin.volkswagen.de/index.jsp
      Don

      CANCER SUCKS but KAISER SUCKS MORE/But so far I kicked it's ASS

    16. 02-01-2007 06:01 PM #16
      Don,

      I've been reading this thread, and I think you will probably be the person that I should talk to; although anyone with info will be a saviour as far as I'm concerned. I have an 02 Passat, with the Tiptronic. As perplexing as this has been for me, I still have no solution in sight.

      Symptoms:

      Regular automatic mode:

      1. As the trans shifts from second to third while putting around, it almost feels as if the trans is shifting into third, and then directly into fourth. I know this is not happening, because I count the gears that follow, and sure enough, there are in fact 2 more after the above scenario.

      2. While using the "passing gear" from fourth, say in a traffic situation, the trans shifts from fourth to third, and just about every time it does this while on the gas, it feels as it slips and then catches. All the while, it does feel like it's pulling, but doesn't feel just right. It feels like when I let off the gas, it almost improves the "drive" of the transmission, and makes it easier for the trans to engage in the gear.

      (Leads me to believe the clutch packs are slipping)

      Tiptronic mode:

      1. Drive the car sporty, in tiptronic mode, first to second, when second shifts, it's just like the "automatic mode" scenario, only in second. Feels like the trans shifts, but then shifts into third imediately. We know this isn't the case, because it is in a manual shifting mode. I'm scratching my head. It won't do it in any other gear while in tiptronic mode, and if I downshift while in this mode, all is good.

      (Can you understand my dilema?)

      Don I would love for you to help me understand this problem before my warranty runs out, and point me in the right direction. For that matter, anyone with some helpfull guidance would be a saint.


    17. 02-25-2008 11:37 PM #17
      good stuff.
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    18. 03-11-2008 11:50 AM #18

    19. 02-10-2005 04:49 PM #19
      How were you able to buy individual solenoids? Volkswagen tells me they can't sell individual solenoids.

    20. Member coolvdub's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 19th, 2000
      Location
      California City,CA
      Posts
      2,237
      Vehicles
      '02 Jetta GLS, reigning high mile champ 371,675k miles and counting
      02-10-2005 08:49 PM #20
      They are available separately, it's just most parts people either don't know or won't tell you. I have got all mine HERE, they are by far the most knowledgeable and cooperative parts people I have dealt with to date. I was also able to buy just the inner CV joint from them instead of the $600 axle assembly every body wanted to sell me.
      Don

      CANCER SUCKS but KAISER SUCKS MORE/But so far I kicked it's ASS

    21. 02-19-2005 10:40 AM #21
      gotta question for ya...

      my car won't shift from 2nd to 3rd gear...

      vag-com 00264 - "solenoid valve 4 (n91) 36-00 Open circuit"

      what's wrong / what else do i need to do to diagnose it?

      my vw dealer says i need a whole new tranny without even looking at the car "we don't work on transmissions here, we just replace them..."


    22. Member coolvdub's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 19th, 2000
      Location
      California City,CA
      Posts
      2,237
      Vehicles
      '02 Jetta GLS, reigning high mile champ 371,675k miles and counting
      02-19-2005 04:00 PM #22
      Are you sure about the VAG-COM Code? N91 controls the lockup function of the torque converter. I see now you have a 01M transmission, yours is a 4 speed auto correct? If so I don't have the technical info from Erwin on hand but will look up the info in my Bentley manual later on today. I believe the 01M tranmission is notorious for having a bad wiring harness in the transmission which is easily replaced.


      Modified by coolvdub at 12:04 PM 2-19-2005
      Don

      CANCER SUCKS but KAISER SUCKS MORE/But so far I kicked it's ASS

    23. Member coolvdub's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 19th, 2000
      Location
      California City,CA
      Posts
      2,237
      Vehicles
      '02 Jetta GLS, reigning high mile champ 371,675k miles and counting
      02-19-2005 06:35 PM #23
      Okay I checked the Bentley manual for you and the N91 Solenoid controls the lockup function on the 01M as well. So you have two entirely unrelated problems as near as I can tell. If you can find somebody local to you with a Bentley manual on CD and VAG-COM you can pinpoint the actual problem.


      Modified by coolvdub at 2:38 PM 2-19-2005
      Don

      CANCER SUCKS but KAISER SUCKS MORE/But so far I kicked it's ASS

    24. 05-03-2005 04:47 PM #24
      Quote, originally posted by coolvdub »
      N91 controls the lockup function of the torque converter.yours is a 4 speed auto correct? Modified by coolvdub at 12:04 PM 2-19-2005

      Although I have the 5 sp tiptronic, curiosity compels me to ask if I have a problem or not.
      Coasting down hill at low rpm's my torque converter locks-up for one second, then releases for five seconds repeatedly, but happens only at low RPM's, in the 4th gear selector setting. Other than that this transmission is a wonderful piece of machinery.


    25. 05-18-2008 04:06 PM #25
      I am very much interested in getting a replacement wiring harness for my '02 Jetta TDI (01M trans), if this is indeed my problem. The TCC disables after the car has been driven awhile. It had a an OBD-II P0740 DTC stored (TCC solenoid open circuit). I verified the circuit was open, but was able to regain continuity by moving the pigtail coming out of the trans around a bit. I'm hoping this is the problem, but I'm concerned that the solenoid may be going open when it heats up.

    26. 02-11-2005 05:39 PM #26
      Awesome Thanks

    27. 03-31-2005 01:18 PM #27
      great stuff just wanted to save it

    28. 01-29-2007 06:20 PM #28
      Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic
      Great article! I have 97 Jetta with "slow to engage Drive". If you let the car warm-up for 5-10 min. it will engage into drive with no problem. No delay problem at all going from P to reverse. Dealer want $1400 to replace the torque converter. Bad torque converter would not enable the car to go into reverse either. Problem is not T-converter. I think it is a stickey solenoid. Based on this thread, is one of the accessable solenoids the cause of the slow to engage? Which solenoid controls initial Drive mode? No tranny fault codes displayed. Fluid level is correct. Tranny shifts just fine once Drive finally drops in..

    29. 02-07-2012 11:38 AM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by KookysJetta View Post
      Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic
      Great article! I have 97 Jetta with "slow to engage Drive". If you let the car warm-up for 5-10 min. it will engage into drive with no problem. No delay problem at all going from P to reverse. Dealer want $1400 to replace the torque converter. Bad torque converter would not enable the car to go into reverse either. Problem is not T-converter. I think it is a stickey solenoid. Based on this thread, is one of the accessable solenoids the cause of the slow to engage? Which solenoid controls initial Drive mode? No tranny fault codes displayed. Fluid level is correct. Tranny shifts just fine once Drive finally drops in..
      Did you ever get this resolved. My 05 Jetta has been doing the same thing and I have installed all new solinoids with the problem still there? I haved 140,000 great miles thus far


    30. 04-01-2008 02:56 PM #31
      In terms of the fluid comparing how many miles was put on the tranny to make it that blackish brown color?

    31. 07-19-2008 10:33 AM #32
      CoolVDub, Great post and photos, thanks for going to all of the trouble...

    32. Member coolvdub's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 19th, 2000
      Location
      California City,CA
      Posts
      2,237
      Vehicles
      '02 Jetta GLS, reigning high mile champ 371,675k miles and counting
      07-19-2008 12:58 PM #33
      No problem
      Don

      CANCER SUCKS but KAISER SUCKS MORE/But so far I kicked it's ASS

    33. 09-18-2008 10:09 PM #34
      Don,
      I've been reading your thread and also been doing some researching on the forum about problem with my tranny.
      My symptom is usually when engine is cold i.e. tranny is cold too, it will not shift beyond 2nd and will stay there for about 5 minutes until I hear a thump and all is well.
      So my question is, wouldn't it have been easier if you took the tranny off from the car and work on the tranny?
      Seems like you have the knowledge to take the whole car apart.

    34. Member coolvdub's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 19th, 2000
      Location
      California City,CA
      Posts
      2,237
      Vehicles
      '02 Jetta GLS, reigning high mile champ 371,675k miles and counting
      09-21-2008 02:47 AM #35
      Quote, originally posted by audi10021075 »
      Don,
      I've been reading your thread and also been doing some researching on the forum about problem with my tranny.
      My symptom is usually when engine is cold i.e. tranny is cold too, it will not shift beyond 2nd and will stay there for about 5 minutes until I hear a thump and all is well.
      So my question is, wouldn't it have been easier if you took the tranny off from the car and work on the tranny?
      Seems like you have the knowledge to take the whole car apart.

      Your tranny problem is not one I am familiar with. That being said, if it shifts fine after it's warm you may be low on fluid. Do you have VAG-COM so you can scan for error codes? If not, post up in your regional forum looking for somebody local who does.

      As far as removing the tranny, it is an absolute pain in the a$$. So it was easier to work on it in the car,even though it is a tight working area.

      Don

      CANCER SUCKS but KAISER SUCKS MORE/But so far I kicked it's ASS

    Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •