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    Thread: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic

    1. Semi-n00b Slick Tricks's Avatar
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      04-17-2012 02:30 PM #141
      Yeah, X a bajillion on the awesome thread here.

      I am planning on doing this pretty soon here, Did everyone order their solenoids from Cobra?

      if not, where? I am looking at ~400.00 for the pack of them. (to hell with diagnosing, I want to replace them all)

      To those that have done this: can someone with minor exp (changed brakes, axle, ball joint, oil, etc. )himself tackle this? I have a great local community of Vdubbers who may be willing to help.

      Thanks
      Black 1.8T mk4 "Maggie"

    2. Junior Member
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      05-03-2012 09:22 AM #142
      The only thing I found that was an issue was the one fastener, that was a nut instead of a bolt. I ended up accidentally pushing it in the hole and had to use a strong magnet with another bolt to fish it out of the hole and use a small screwdriver into the threads to hold it in place while putting the solenoid and nut back in place. See the attached image I marked up from the first page.

    3. Member panheadjdhess's Avatar
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      05-09-2012 06:42 PM #143
      I caved. I'm having Dub Squared in Arlington TX do a 5 speed swap. Tired of electronic valves controling my movement. Back to the basics and a manual tranny.

    4. 05-10-2012 07:40 PM #144
      I was having the no upshift when cold on a 2002 AWP GTI 09a. I was just going to replace only the N92 but found the kit on ebay for 330$ for all 9...My problem seems to have been fixed. Thank you for this great information helped me a lot.

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      05-11-2012 01:09 PM #145
      Quote Originally Posted by panheadjdhess View Post
      I caved. I'm having Dub Squared in Arlington TX do a 5 speed swap. Tired of electronic valves controling my movement. Back to the basics and a manual tranny.
      Don't feel bad, and post back with how it goes (maybe in a new thread)

      But it will be hard to get away from electronics, what with the injectors, MAF, MAP, crank & cam position sensors, ECU controlled timing & fuel, O2 sensor, throttle & throttle body DBW, ....

    6. 05-27-2012 11:51 PM #146
      Great post, this was a easy fix it took me about 3 hours to change these out I actually bought all of the solenoids off of ebay for about 380. I just did not want to take the chance that it was another one besides the N92, the car runs great now. Will reply in a couple weeks to give an update if this was a sure fix.

    7. Member
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      06-04-2012 04:37 PM #147
      2002 GTI 1.8T with 09A tip will not downshift or upshift into 3rd or 4th (in both auto and tip mode) until reaching normal operating temp. No codes on vagcom. Once it's warm then it shifts normally except for the intermittent harsh shift between 2nd and 3rd after city driving for 1/2 an hour.
      I've drained and refilled with new ATF 3 times in the past 5K. After the last change I added 500ml and that did nothing to change the symptoms. I added a second 500ml with no change in the shifting problems.
      I then added another 500ml for a total of 1500ml extra and got these 2 codes. See Auto Scan below.

      With these codes there was still no change in the shifting or the shifting problem. I drained out the extra 1500ml and cleared the codes. Codes did not return and there was still no change in the shifting.

      I want to change all 9 solenoids but I am concerned that this is a mechanical problem because there are no auto trans codes (with normal volume of AFT.)


      I will include a full autoscan with the tip overfilled (with 1.5L extra for a total of 4L) of ATF. There are no codes now:

      Thursday,10,May,2012,01:53:22:50964
      VCDS Version: Release 11.11.3
      Data version: 20120401



      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


      Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
      Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75
      76

      VIN: 9BWDE61J224032771 Mileage: 203210km/126268miles
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
      Part No: 06A 906 032 HF
      Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0005
      Coding: 07550
      Shop #: WSC 00000
      VCID: 69D7BC661362C31
      9BWDE61J224032771 VWZ7Z0A4105809

      1 Fault Found:
      18032 - MIL Request Signal Active (Check TCM for errors too!)
      P1624 - 35-00 -
      Readiness: 0000 0000

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09A-927-750.lbl
      Part No: 09A 927 750 T
      Component: AG5 Getriebe 09A 0162
      VCID: 3C7935322C70869

      1 Fault Found:
      00652 - Gear Monitoring
      27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ASR.lbl
      Part No: 1C0 907 379 K
      Component: ASR FRONT MK60 0103
      Coding: 0021505
      Shop #: WSC 00000 785 00200
      VCID: 32651B0AAE34409

      No fault code found.

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
      Part No: 6Q0 909 605 F
      Component: 08 AIRBAG VW6 0202 0004
      Coding: 12344
      Shop #: WSC 00000
      VCID: 3A75332A2644B89

      No fault code found.

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
      Part No: 1J0 920 906 N
      Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V06
      Coding: 07234
      Shop #: WSC 00000
      VCID: 336B1E0E012E491
      9BWDE61J224032771 VWZ7Z0A4105809

      No fault code found.

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
      Part No: 6N0 909 901
      Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
      Coding: 00006
      Shop #: WSC 00000
      VCID: F0E15102B0B8B29

      No fault code found.

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
      Part No: 1C0 959 799 C
      Component: 1J Komfortgerát HLO 0003
      Coding: 00064
      Shop #: WSC 00000
      VCID: 37732A1E1556A51

      Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1C1959801A
      Component: 1J Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0002

      Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1C1959802A
      Component: 1J Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0002

      No fault code found.

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 56: Radio Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.lbl
      Part No: 3B7 035 180
      Component: Radio NP2 0005
      Coding: 00031
      Shop #: WSC 00000
      VCID: DDBF18B6572A2F1

      No fault code found.

      End ---------------------------------------------------------------------
      Last edited by grubyuppie; 06-05-2012 at 11:17 AM.

    8. Member CoolAirVw's Avatar
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      06-05-2012 02:26 PM #148
      Your overfull fluid isnt the cause of the 00652 code. The solenoids sticking probably is. Some of them trigger the code others dont (read this thread to verify what I'm saying here)

      You basically got 2 choices... change solenoids or replace trans.... If your car were here I'd recommend trying solenoids.
      Auto trans fluid change or flush will not make a trans fail. Stop spreading the wives tale/urban myth.
      ASE Master Certified Technician with L1 Advanced Diagnostic Rating Recently passed ASE certification for Light Diesel repair.
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      06-05-2012 07:12 PM #149
      I'll be ordering the 9 pack from cobra transmission then.

      Are speed sensor or multifunction switch failures ever the cause of the tiptronic being stuck in 2nd when cold?

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      06-06-2012 10:56 PM #150
      Quote Originally Posted by grubyuppie View Post
      Are speed sensor or multifunction switch failures ever the cause of the tiptronic being stuck in 2nd when cold?
      Almost certainly not, and I only added 'almost' because I never say never ...

    11. 06-24-2012 10:15 PM #151
      What tools do you need to do the solenoid replacement on the 2002 Jetta 1.8t tiptronic? Sorry if I overlooked it elsewhere in the posts, and THANK you for any help

    12. 06-25-2012 03:02 PM #152
      I did the solenoids on a 2003 Jetta 1.8t. You just need the common tools that you already have such as 3/8 drive set with metric short/long sockets in both 12pt/6pt. set of box/open end wrenches. A racheting tie down strap for pulling the engine/tranny rearward. A long neck funnel. I think the only challenge is the ability to work in cramped area with limited visibility. A telescopic mirror and flashlight came in handy.

    13. 07-17-2012 03:43 PM #153
      Great info on the solenoid replacement going to attemp mine next week. My GTI 2002 tiptonic wont shift from 1st to 2nd when its cold. warm it up and she shifts fine. What is the 1st to 2nd solenoid? Thanks Bill

    14. Member CoolAirVw's Avatar
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      07-21-2012 08:18 AM #154
      N92.

      usually its best to change them as a set because many of them have common sticking problems.
      Auto trans fluid change or flush will not make a trans fail. Stop spreading the wives tale/urban myth.
      ASE Master Certified Technician with L1 Advanced Diagnostic Rating Recently passed ASE certification for Light Diesel repair.
      www.KansasCityTdi.com

    15. 07-21-2012 12:02 PM #155
      Did mine a couple of weeks ago everything went smooth I removed the bumper and bolts from the rad support and just moved it forward a couple of inches gave me plenty of room plus with the bumper off I didn't even have to jack the car up.

    16. 07-28-2012 02:47 AM #156
      So i am replacing all solenoids in my 09A to try to fix a shifting issue and ran into a stop. I was having a real tough time getting the valve body cover off. I removed all 20 bolts and what not. I looked into one of the threaded holes and I can see RTV/silicon seal between the valve body cover and the transmission case. Does VW use silicon seal here or do you think the previous owner pulled the cover off at some point...possibly to fix the same shifting issue I am running into.

      Any tips on getting that valve body cover off?

      Thanks for all the information on this thread...I've learned alot even if this doesn't fix my shifting problem.
      Last edited by OnePutt; 07-28-2012 at 03:20 AM.

    17. 07-28-2012 11:04 AM #157
      I honestly cant remember but I know there wasn't a gasket so it must have been some rtv on it.

    18. 07-30-2012 11:51 AM #158
      It's probably RTV'ed on. You're supposed to break a RTV'ed cover free by whacking on it with a rubber mallet, but I have no idea how or why that's supposed to work.

      I pried slowly and gently around the edge with a big screwdriver until it let loose (shh, don't tell anyone, as this is not the recommended procedure). This was on a Mazda MPV, also a JF506e transmission. Note that there is a gasket available for the JF506e...

    19. Junior Member OneGoodSmack's Avatar
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      07-31-2012 11:12 AM #159
      alright im havin a issue when the car is cold reverse doesnt engage and feels like neutral, but after its warm reverse works ffine, or sometimes if i go to drive then park then reverse it sometimes kicks in? Have had many people telling me its the filter and many telling me its a shift solenoid, need some help this is my first car, and have only had it for aa month

    20. 08-12-2012 03:40 PM #160



      Does anyone know where this piece goes? After I opened the solenoid box, I found this and I don't know where it goes.

    21. Member tjjoiner's Avatar
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      08-13-2012 10:23 AM #161
      Quote Originally Posted by afg View Post
      Does anyone know where this piece goes? After I opened the solenoid box, I found this and I don't know where it goes.
      Looks like a mount or something for one of the solenoids.

      Quote Originally Posted by orangea2vr6 View Post
      Did mine a couple of weeks ago everything went smooth I removed the bumper and bolts from the rad support and just moved it forward a couple of inches gave me plenty of room plus with the bumper off I didn't even have to jack the car up.
      I may try this approach when I replace my solenoids. I'll probably get the kit sometime this week, though I'm weighing what should take priority -- replacing the solenoids or replacing my PCV hoses (they've crumbled and are now non-existant). I can't afford both right now.
      .: trevor | I love my wife! | His: 2002 VW Jetta GLS 1.8t Hers: 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT

    22. 09-20-2012 10:36 PM #162
      I have gained a little confidence reading this thread, just want to see if anyone thinks I am headed in the right direction...

      I have a 2002 VR6 Jetta, 2.8 Auto-triptronic
      Japco JP JC7 09A 321 107A

      Problem: On numerous occasions, it will go into safe mode, not shift out of 3rd according to the dash, feels like 2nd. Sometimes I can drive a little while and it frees up and and drives normal, do denotes a little hard shifting.

      Pulled VAG code:
      Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09A-927-750.lbl
      Part No: 09A 927 750 L
      Component: AG5 Getriebe 09A 0192

      1 Fault Found:
      00652 - Gear Monitoring
      27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

      Sounds like the replacement of the solenoids will fix the problem-am I right in thinking this?, would rather do all at once..

      Does anyone have the set# if I buy from CobraTrans? They are down to 319 a set..
      Does it include a gasket?

      What is the dog bone?

      Thanks again for this great thread.

    23. 09-22-2012 08:10 AM #163
      just joined this forum so i could say thanks for this, i fixed my daughters mk 4 golf with the 09a gearbox, i changed n88 n89 and n92 i got them from vw, it cost me £225.00 + £40. 0 for new atf.

      i coppied this thread and shes now mobile again. thanks to everybody here and everywhere else on this forum. thanks thanks thanks. saved her £1000s of pounds.

    24. 09-22-2012 12:14 PM #164
      Due to this thread being started 8 years ago. I thought I would attach my thread as there has been some updates to what ATF can be used and different approaches to getting to the valve body. I have posted many photos as well as there being a sequence to the order of which the solenoids being replaced.

      I think one of the key items is getting the power steering line out of the way that sits in front of the transmission valve body cover. Once this is out of the way its very easy to access the valve body. On another note I would recomend that you remove (3 bolts) the dogbone rear mount found on the bottom of the tranny and pull the entire engine and tranny back a few inches, but do not pull from the CV joint but rather pull from a mount thats on the tranny. Check out my photos. Also I was able to gain access without removing the wheel and wheel and front fender liner.

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-Of-Valve-Body

    25. Member CoolAirVw's Avatar
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      09-24-2012 07:09 PM #165
      Quote Originally Posted by afg View Post



      Does anyone know where this piece goes? After I opened the solenoid box, I found this and I don't know where it goes.
      It goes on the bolt for the N91 soleonid along with a ground wire. Its there to hold a small pipe in place, to prevent the pipe from backing out. You cant see the pipe with the n91 solenoid bolted in.

      Take a look at the VB pic in the following link.

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...1#post78912191

      The pipe is mostly blocked by the "black" portion of the n91 solenoid. YOu can just see part of the pipe to the right of the black portion. You can just barely see part of the bracket to the left of the black portion.
      Last edited by CoolAirVw; 09-24-2012 at 07:12 PM.
      Auto trans fluid change or flush will not make a trans fail. Stop spreading the wives tale/urban myth.
      ASE Master Certified Technician with L1 Advanced Diagnostic Rating Recently passed ASE certification for Light Diesel repair.
      www.KansasCityTdi.com

    26. Member tjjoiner's Avatar
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      12-01-2012 05:33 PM #166
      Doing the solenoid swap this very moment.

      I took an alternate route by removing the bumper. I haven't had to jack up the car, remove any tires, and I didn't even have to remove the shift linkage. I've got all but one of the valve cover screws removed (on the left side). I haven't removed it because I have not drained the transmission fluid yet. With that said, if I don't drain the fluid, will all ~4 L come gushing out from the valve cover or just the little bit that coolvdub mentioned?

      Next remove the pan that covers the valve body. I placed a drain pan under it to catch fluid. Suprisingly, very little fluid came out when removing the pan. Just a small bathroom size dixie cups amount of fluid came out.
      .: trevor | I love my wife! | His: 2002 VW Jetta GLS 1.8t Hers: 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT

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      12-01-2012 05:39 PM #167
      I've done this project twice but I always drained the fluid first so I don't know how much will be in the pain if you don't drain it. Please report back if you don't drain it.

      Did removing the bumper help at all. I found that the hardest part of the project was that the wiring harness and tranny fluid lines were too close to the pan. It seems like even if I took off the front clip and radiator that I still would have been fighting the metal lines and wire looms.

    28. Member tjjoiner's Avatar
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      12-01-2012 05:49 PM #168
      Thanks for the quick reply!

      I planned on changing the ATF fluid anyway, but my drain pan is in the trunk, which won't open with the battery disconnected. I'll pick up another 8-quart dish pan from the Dollar Tree (best $1 drain pan ever) in a bit when I head out to see my wife on her dinner break. For the record, I'll likely replace it with Valvoline Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic. That's what I've been using and it seems to be working well.

      As for the wiring and fluid lines, I agree that they're a pain! I spent more time getting those out of the way than anything else.

      And doing the solenoid change by removing the bumper is, in my amateur opinion, the best way of doing it. Keep in mind, this is the first time I've ever done this and that I am, at this very moment, in the process. So far, though, it's been a breeze.

      I initially started to change the timing belt, but when I read in the DIY that I've got to jack up the car (not comfortable doing that on my sloped driveway), I decided to do the solenoid swap instead.
      .: trevor | I love my wife! | His: 2002 VW Jetta GLS 1.8t Hers: 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT

    29. Member
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      12-01-2012 05:53 PM #169
      What benefits did you enjoy from taking the bumper off? Did you have more room under the car?

    30. Member tjjoiner's Avatar
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      12-01-2012 08:17 PM #170
      Quote Originally Posted by grubyuppie View Post
      What benefits did you enjoy from taking the bumper off? Did you have more room under the car?
      For me, the biggest benefit was not having to jack up the car. As I mentioned a few posts up, my driveway is slightly sloped. As such, I don't feel very comfortable jacking up the car and getting underneath it, so if there's anything I can do to NOT have to jack up the car, I'll do it.

      That being said, it's only logical that the bumper method leaves you with LESS room under the car than putting the car on stands and doing the procedure, but in what little experience I've gathered today, there is still plenty of room underneath to do what you've got to do. It's room in front of the valve cover that makes the difference.
      .: trevor | I love my wife! | His: 2002 VW Jetta GLS 1.8t Hers: 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT

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      12-01-2012 08:22 PM #171
      That makes sense to take the bumper off. I may try that when I do my VB project.

    32. Member WannaCorrado's Avatar
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      12-02-2012 11:24 AM #172
      I've done the solenoids on two different cars now. First one with bumper on, second one with front unbolted and moved forward.

      It look me a lot less time for the entire job the second time, even considering I had to remove the bumper. It makes the job much much easier.

    33. Member
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      12-02-2012 11:33 AM #173
      How easy is it to remove the bumper. I'm worried that I may not be able to get it back on perfectly.

    34. Member tjjoiner's Avatar
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      12-02-2012 03:37 PM #174
      OK, so I've got the new solenoids in, BUT the white connector wire to the N281 solenoid got caught behind a screw as I was tightening it. It crushed the insulation a bit and I think it may have cut through to the wire. Wire is intact, just not the insulation. What can I do to fix it without removing the entire wire harness?

      UPDATE: I put a little dab of super glue (Gorilla brand) around the crushed area. I'd like to get some heat shrink tubing around the area as well, but I don't know how to remove the connector.



      Quote Originally Posted by grubyuppie View Post
      How easy is it to remove the bumper. I'm worried that I may not be able to get it back on perfectly.
      VERY easy. 4 screws in each wheel well, two at the bottom, 3 or 4 above the grill. Once those are out, just pull the whole thing forward.
      Last edited by tjjoiner; 12-02-2012 at 03:50 PM.
      .: trevor | I love my wife! | His: 2002 VW Jetta GLS 1.8t Hers: 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT

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      12-02-2012 07:22 PM #175
      I wouldn't put anything on the wire that could potentially end up in the valve body. I recommend taking the solenoid out and inspecting the wire. If the wires not exposed then put it back it.

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