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    Thread: Solenoid Change 09A Tiptronic

    1. 04-24-2011 05:22 PM #101
      Hello all,

      I need help identifying a part (metal bracket) that appears to go on the post where the wiring harness of the 09a valve body bolts onto?... This metal bracket came out while I was changing the 9 solenoids. I am not sure where/how to put it back. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Huy

      How do I attach the pictures?
      Last edited by 03GTIMN; 04-24-2011 at 05:31 PM.

    2. 04-27-2011 12:00 AM #102
      Quote Originally Posted by 03GTIMN View Post
      Hello all,

      I need help identifying a part (metal bracket) that appears to go on the post where the wiring harness of the 09a valve body bolts onto?... This metal bracket came out while I was changing the 9 solenoids. I am not sure where/how to put it back. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Huy

      How do I attach the pictures?
      Hi All,

      I lost some sleep on this one but I finally figured it out. It goes on the solenoid valve N91 post. It sits on top of the solenoid and curves to the right. Don, thanks for paving the way. I followed your blog and was able swap our all 9 solenoid and it fixed my reverse problem (my car has 126K miles). My reverse gear would not engage when the engine is cold. I would have to wait until the engine is at operating temperature 190 degrees before the reverse gear would engage. If your car is having similar symptoms, it could be attributed to faulty N88, N89, and N92 solenoids. If you are going to replace them, I suggest replacing all nine while you're at it. I purchased the solenoid kit from http://cobratransmission.com/index.p...45_947_978_987 for $335 which includes all 9 solenoids and the pan gasket. They claimed to be OEM solenoids and are made in Japan with the correct part number. Remember to TAKE YOUR TIME getting the pan out and replacing the solenoids so you don't damage the wiring. Hope this helps the next person doing this job.

      -Huy

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      06-13-2011 10:50 PM #103
      Changed them all 9 solenoids today for a second time but today with a small problem, after I put back the pan and everything else related to taking off the valvebody pan, I scanned the car and to my horror got a code that says" 00258 solenoid valve (N88) short to ground.
      and I know there is a black wire that came out of N93 that I put on N88 bolt, can anyone guide me to where that ground wire has to be bolted? I lost its location in the process of taking the valve body out..
      Thanks in advance.
      What you do does not matter, how you do it does.

    4. 06-23-2011 11:23 PM #104
      Quote Originally Posted by Balomo41 View Post
      Changed them all 9 solenoids today for a second time but today with a small problem, after I put back the pan and everything else related to taking off the valvebody pan, I scanned the car and to my horror got a code that says" 00258 solenoid valve (N88) short to ground.
      and I know there is a black wire that came out of N93 that I put on N88 bolt, can anyone guide me to where that ground wire has to be bolted? I lost its location in the process of taking the valve body out..
      Thanks in advance.
      Hi,

      The black wire from the N93 goes on the N91 mounting post.

      -Huy

    5. 07-29-2011 12:36 PM #105
      Thanks to Don and his post, I just finished replacing all 9 solenoids in our Jetta with 09a trans.
      The transmission is back to normal.

      The issue was engine rpm spinning towards the redline during accelleration.
      Only code showing was "00300 - Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor". Dealer and repair shops say new transmission
      is needed. After reading vwvortex forums, decided to do solenoid replacement instead.

      A few notes from the process,

      - I used compressed air and a stiff brush to clean the area around the transmission before opening it.

      - Like Don, I used a ratcheting tie down to pull the transmission rearward. I hooked onto the skidplate
      rather than the CV. Other end hooked to rear cross member.

      - The pan was easier to remove if I lie on the ground and put my whole hand into it and used my palm to push
      it towards the front for clearance. My helper wiggled and pushed on the wiring looms from above. I tried
      to keep the vent tube away from the valve body to avoid damage to wires.

      - With the pan was off, the red tamperproof seal and refill plug are easily tampered with. Note that
      the fill spout has a metal collar which will resist prying up on plug.

      - replaced the 9 solenoids - do-able but not easy because of limited access.

      - I assumed that weight of transmssion fluid is fairly constant regardless of temperature,manufacture
      or length of service. Since there was no fluid leak, I wanted to refill with the same amount of fluid
      drained. To accomplish this, I used a digital scale to weight the drained fluid. Be sure to weigh
      the empty drain pan first in order to figure out the net weight. Refilling was easy. Weigh the
      bottle(s) before adding then weigh them again after. The amount added is the difference between
      the 2 weights. BTW I refilled with Mobil 1 Multivehicle fluid.

      I needed the following in addition to regular hand tools.

      - 1 jack stand (I used the factory jack to lift the vehicle)
      - 1 ratcheting tiedown strap
      - air compressor with blow attachment
      - digital scale with at least 10 lb (5 kg) capacity
      - 1 cooperative female helper during pan removal/installation.

      I am greatful for the info gleened from this forum.

      Thanks,
      Doug
      after dog bone unbolted, trans can be pulled back


      pry on outer edge (plastic part) to avoid prying on metal collar.


      I used digital scale to determine refill amount.
      Last edited by enginebay; 08-25-2011 at 02:38 PM. Reason: added comment to pictures.

    6. 08-03-2011 12:05 PM #106
      Can anyone still see the origional pictures?, were they removed or maybe placed in an archive somewhere?

      Maybe my firewall at work is blocking them but I can't see them and need a DIY guide, picturs would be very helpful

    7. 08-03-2011 04:01 PM #107
      Quote Originally Posted by AudiOn19s View Post
      Can anyone still see the origional pictures?, were they removed or maybe placed in an archive somewhere?

      Maybe my firewall at work is blocking them but I can't see them and need a DIY guide, picturs would be very helpful

      I can't see Don's pictures either. They were okay a couple of days ago when I referred to them while doing the solenoids on my 09a. The photos are stored on the FOTOTIME site and something has changed there. Don needs to fix it.

      Doug.

    8. Member coolvdub's Avatar
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      08-05-2011 07:03 AM #108
      They should be working now,sorry guys. I have been sick lately and forgot to renew my Fototime account Sorry for the inconvenience.
      Don

      CANCER SUCKS but KAISER SUCKS MORE/But so far I kicked it's ASS

    9. 08-08-2011 04:09 PM #109
      Im having the same problem , already change the solenoid but still doing the same not running over 20MPH and no codes , is there some way the check the TCM , can TCM : be reprogram ? some help here will be appreciate.

      Thanks

    10. Member OldSkulDub's Avatar
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      08-10-2011 06:47 PM #110
      I am having rough downshifting from 4th to 3rd especially when really hot outside. When it is cooler outside it shifts pretty smooth. Anyhow I am changing the tranny filter and fluid and since I am going to be in there I wanna change whatever solenoid is most likely the issue and my engine is not throwing codes. I was wondering if this is why you did yours. Thanks. Good pics too. 2002 Passat 1.8T 170,000.

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      08-10-2011 10:22 PM #111
      Quote Originally Posted by German Toy View Post
      Im having the same problem , already change the solenoid but still doing the same not running over 20MPH and no codes , is there some way the check the TCM , can TCM : be reprogram ? some help here will be appreciate.

      Thanks
      You need to give more details and explain what shifting symptoms you see with your Tiptronic. A bad TCM will throw codes. A dealer may be able to reprogram a TCM, but not us.

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      08-10-2011 10:25 PM #112
      Quote Originally Posted by OldSkulDub View Post
      I am having rough downshifting from 4th to 3rd especially when really hot outside. When it is cooler outside it shifts pretty smooth. Anyhow I am changing the tranny filter and fluid and since I am going to be in there I wanna change whatever solenoid is most likely the issue and my engine is not throwing codes. I was wondering if this is why you did yours. Thanks. Good pics too. 2002 Passat 1.8T 170,000.
      General consensus is that if you open a tiptronic for one solenoid, you might as well do all 9. The cost of one is much higher that 1/9 the cost of a set.

      You know the tiptronic has to come out of the car and be disassembled to change the filter, right?

    13. Member OldSkulDub's Avatar
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      08-11-2011 06:36 AM #113
      Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_M View Post
      General consensus is that if you open a tiptronic for one solenoid, you might as well do all 9. The cost of one is much higher that 1/9 the cost of a set.

      You know the tiptronic has to come out of the car and be disassembled to change the filter, right?
      I did not. I thought I could just drop the pan and change it, no?

    14. 08-11-2011 08:19 AM #114
      Firstly, thanks to Coolvdub for the best post and instructions I have ever seen. Without this detailed pictorial help I would never have felt confident to attempt the job.
      I changed solenoid N93 in my Tiptronic on a 2001 V5 Bora today and it works ! So pleased !
      (This post comes from Australia if that makes any difference).
      The best place to buy the parts for this is anywhere else except Australia as they are all about 2.5 times as expensive as UK or USA.

      1. I had to support the transmission with a floor jack and undo the LHS engine mounts to move the car back a further 3/4" to get better access.

      2. Remove the auxillary air pump hose and pump. As my hose had already been chewed up before I purchased the car, I also removed the filter and discarded the hose from the filter to the pump. The dealer tells me all this is of limited value anyway. Removal of the pump will give you much needed access to replace the pan.

      3. Ensure you have a helper on site when replacing the pan which you have used the special VW gasket cement on. It goes off quite quickly - about 10 minutes, so you need to work fast without smearing the cement everywhere.

      4. The N93 solenoid is a real pig to replace. This is probably the one you are here for as I believe it is the usual culprit. The inner mounting screw can only be moved 1/16 of a turn with a small spanner. Again, patience is a virtue. You will have to remove the main wiring clips to get the wretch out, as well as the solenoid directly above it. This would be just so much easier on the bench when it was assembled ! There are some interesting locating devices on some of the others which can be lost, fall out etc if you are not careful.

      5. You can use Fuchs Titan ATF 3353 (Made in Germany), selling here in Australia at $231 for 20 litres. This compares well with the VW product which the dealer wants $60 a litre for. I'm told they are one and the same oil, as Fuchs supply VW. This means you will have some on hand for your regular oil change.

      Thanks again Don for the post. If a 68 year old pensioner like me with no real training can do this, then others can too.

      Grahame
      Last edited by foz405; 08-11-2011 at 08:37 AM.

    15. 08-11-2011 12:03 PM #115
      Hi
      thanks for the reply, my issue started with the morning thing, letting the car running for 10min then shifting with no problems, until one day just stop shifting even warming the car, changed the solenoids and fluid, never had any code, now don't know what else try just thinking in the TCM. any clues.

      Thanks

    16. 08-14-2011 01:53 AM #116
      Thanks Doug for the short write up, I think I have the same issue... trans revs (seems like slips into neutral) in 4,5 when I am over 2200 rpm, everything shifts perfect under about 2200 rpm. Dealer said I need a new trans, I want to try the solinoids first and there is some great info here. The generic code thrown is P0730, don't have VAG COM but does this sound like what you had? Thanks a bunch! Andy

    17. 08-16-2011 03:30 PM #117
      Quote Originally Posted by 68ponys View Post
      Thanks Doug for the short write up, I think I have the same issue... trans revs (seems like slips into neutral) in 4,5 when I am over 2200 rpm, everything shifts perfect under about 2200 rpm. Dealer said I need a new trans, I want to try the solinoids first and there is some great info here. The generic code thrown is P0730, don't have VAG COM but does this sound like what you had? Thanks a bunch! Andy
      Hi Andy,

      Your symptoms sound similar to ours. Auto trans works fine when gently driven. At highway speeds, I would try to accelerate as if to pass a vehicle ahead of me. The RPMs would slowly advance with vehicle speed then at a certain point, start spinning higher. It felt like it was slipping because the extra RPM's were not making the car go faster. Backing off on the throttle allowed the rpm to return to its previous crusing value of < 2000.
      The only code showing was a temperature sensor code in the auto trans.

      My options were,

      - spend 5000 for a new/rebuilt trans (dealer)
      - sell car "as is" for about 2-3000
      - live with it
      - gamble by replacing all solenoids for < 400 (by me)

      I went with the last option because many vwvortex'ers have resolved 09a trans problems by replacing solenoids.
      In the past, I've done starters, radiators, timing belts so this task was well within my abilities.
      I do not have the advanced expertise/patience required to diagnose which solenoid needed replacing so I did all 9. It was < 400 to buy all 9 as a set.

      This procedure took me 3 evenings (about 8 hours total). Once you are in the trans, take note of where the wires go especially around N90,N91,N93. These 3 are the least visible yet the most difficult to replace.

      It would be nice if the 4 solenoids above these 3 were out so you could have better access.

      N91 Remove this one first. Note: There is a metal clamp thingy on one of the posts.
      N90 remove this one next when N91 is out. Note colors of wires on posts
      N93 first need to unclip internal wiring harness above and also unbolt one harness holddown clamp

      I need slimmer fingers to start the 3 bolts which hold the wiring looms to the pan.

      My solenoid kit came with a new pan gasket so no messy silicone to deal with.

      Yes, I had VAG-COM purchased just for this problem. Hooked it up once to see that the only code was
      for the temp sensor in the auto trans. After the solenoid fix I have not even reset the codes or done
      that thing for relearning - (sorry can't remember the term).

      BTW, I am a 51 year old office worker and only work on my own vehicles.

      Doug

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      08-16-2011 09:17 PM #118
      Quote Originally Posted by enginebay View Post
      Hi Andy,

      - gamble by replacing all solenoids for < 400 (by me)

      I went with the last option because many vwvortex'ers have resolved 09a trans problems by replacing solenoids.
      In the past, I've done starters, radiators, timing belts so this task was well within my abilities.

      Doug
      Nice writeup Doug, but you didn't really mention if it fixed your problem. If it did, how many miles since the fix?

    19. 08-17-2011 06:12 PM #119
      Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_M View Post
      Nice writeup Doug, but you didn't really mention if it fixed your problem. If it did, how many miles since the fix?
      Yes, after replacing all 9 solenoids, the transmission is shifting fine and not slipping anymore. I am able to feel each gear change as I brisky accelerate upto the speed limit. We've put on about 500 kms (300 miles) so far.

      Doug

    20. 08-22-2011 11:47 PM #120
      hi,
      very useful thread.

      my car also has morning sickness so it is going in for the solenoid set change this week. Keeping fingers crossed and hope it comes out fine.

      Seat alhambra 2001 1.9tdi w/tiptronic 5 speed. Only 90,000kms/ the problems been there for a couple of months already.

      the gear gets stuck in 2 and after running around for a couple of minutes (warm) will shift normally. The computer check showed a n91 fault and it was cleared and never came back on again ?? Still have the downshift tug from 2 to 1 which you can feel if you are really looking for it.

      will post the result here when the car comes back.

    21. n00b Dub_Lex's Avatar
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      08-26-2011 05:14 PM #121
      Thank you guys for posting all those helpful information. I need your help/advice with an issue. I replaced both the N92 Solenoid and the TCM in my 2002 gti. Before I did that, the car would have harsh upshifts from 1 to 2 and harsh downshifts from 2 to 1 when cold. Now it upshifts fine but it still downshifts hard from 2 to 1 when cold. After the car warms up then everything is fine. Which solenoid do you recommend changing? thanks

    22. 08-31-2011 01:12 PM #122
      hi ,

      just got the car back earlier in the week and my wife has been driving around for 2 days, I got a chance to drive it today. From cold, no problems in shifting up or down through the gears and there is no jerk on downshift from 2 to 1.

      Hope the problems don't resurface in the future as i intend to continue using the car for another 1-2 years.

      changing the solenoid set seems to have taken care of the problem insofar.

      thanks to all.

    23. Member panheadjdhess's Avatar
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      09-26-2011 08:51 PM #123
      So I've been reading up on this and a few other threads for 09A issues, as well as NO Reverse issues. The info in these threads is fantastic, and while I don't have a VAG-COM at the moment, I may test the solenoids based on the table CoolAirVW posted. I also appreciate the link to what may be my new VW parts house! With my 1-5 gears working fine, I'm thinking the on/off solenoids won't help with no reverse. The reverse issue started gradually, after warming up and driving forward, I could get it to engage in reverse, even in the 109 degree days this summer, but last month, it finally stopped moving in reverse, at least in the time I gave it to engage (may be 3 min, no sense waiting 20 min ugh!) I'm begininng to think I have drum seal issues???

      CoolAirVW, any chance you can tell me which drums service Reverse and a pic of where they are located??? Guess I better look for an 09A overhaul manual. I've replaced the waterpump, EGV, Turbo, set timing on this `02 1.8T, but I'm not sure I have the tools to dig into this one too deep!

      Any thoughts???

      Again, Great thread. I think I've narrowed down my problem and might be able to avoid senslessly buying solenoids as a process of elimination.

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      09-27-2011 12:29 AM #124
      Look at the bottom of this page http://forum.mpvclub.com/viewtopic.php?t=24788
      for a link to a 09A (aka Jatco 506e, aka Mazda ja5a-el) rebuild manual & update. Mazda version, but applies to VW too (just be sure to order the VW version of the parts you need).

      Also, google for "VW SSP #232", and you should find a VW glossy tech brochure that explains the 09a and TCM operation.

      Those two should get you going, though I personally haven't done anything beyond changing solenoids (yet, knock on wood).

      Good luck

    25. 10-03-2011 01:06 AM #125
      Quote Originally Posted by panheadjdhess View Post
      So I've been reading up on this and a few other threads for 09A issues, as well as NO Reverse issues. The info in these threads is fantastic, and while I don't have a VAG-COM at the moment, I may test the solenoids based on the table CoolAirVW posted. I also appreciate the link to what may be my new VW parts house! With my 1-5 gears working fine, I'm thinking the on/off solenoids won't help with no reverse. The reverse issue started gradually, after warming up and driving forward, I could get it to engage in reverse, even in the 109 degree days this summer, but last month, it finally stopped moving in reverse, at least in the time I gave it to engage (may be 3 min, no sense waiting 20 min ugh!) I'm begininng to think I have drum seal issues???

      CoolAirVW, any chance you can tell me which drums service Reverse and a pic of where they are located??? Guess I better look for an 09A overhaul manual. I've replaced the waterpump, EGV, Turbo, set timing on this `02 1.8T, but I'm not sure I have the tools to dig into this one too deep!

      Any thoughts???

      Again, Great thread. I think I've narrowed down my problem and might be able to avoid senslessly buying solenoids as a process of elimination.
      It sounds like you have a cracked reverse piston.

      I would do a compression test to confirm. There are some pics of someone already doing this here...

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...enly-problem#3

      You just need to remove the fender liner to get to it. 80 -109 PSI is considered in spec.

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