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    Thread: A2 VR6 FAQ

    1. Geriatric Member steveo27's Avatar
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      04-21-2012 12:00 AM #5216
      Still not sure what you are asking.

      Use B3/corrado stuff, its all bolt in.

      Use B4 pedals, B4 clutch master, B4 non ABS booster bracket. and a MK3 non ABS booster.

      MK2 booster has clevis where it connects to the pedal. The B4 pedals use a ball and socket. Look up a few posts, there is a DIY how to make a changer it from ball to clevis.

      ABS and non ABS brackets are different.
      Crooked Euros : try harder

      Brand fan boys are idiots

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    2. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      04-21-2012 12:33 AM #5217
      Quote Originally Posted by steveo27 View Post
      Still not sure what you are asking.

      Use B3/corrado stuff, its all bolt in.

      Use B4 pedals, B4 clutch master, B4 non ABS booster bracket. and a MK3 non ABS booster.

      MK2 booster has clevis where it connects to the pedal. The B4 pedals use a ball and socket. Look up a few posts, there is a DIY how to make a changer it from ball to clevis.

      ABS and non ABS brackets are different.

      ok so...

      the b4 passat im scavenging has ABS

      I Can? use the pedals and clutch master?

      I can use the mk2 booster with minor modifications, but mk3 NON abs booster requires none

      I will need to purchase a NON abs passat booster bracket.

      I'm sorry for asking so many questions but i just want to do it right. I'm down to the most interesting part of the swap and i would hate to buy a bunch of parts i cannot use.
      Bags are for groceries.... I My Dub, So does your girl.
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    3. Geriatric Member steveo27's Avatar
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      04-21-2012 11:23 AM #5218
      I just typed out a whole long thing, but it got deleted for some reason.

      The gist of things is to match the parts. Use a B4 pedal cluster/B4 clutch master/MK3 or B4 non abs booster/non ABS bracket.

      Look at pictures of how the MK2/MK3/B3/B4 booster & clutch master connect to the pedals and you'll understand
      Crooked Euros : try harder

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    4. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      04-22-2012 12:45 PM #5219


      Used a3 pedals, a3 clutchmaster , a3 non-abs booster, a2 brake master...
      Last edited by Deezy; 04-22-2012 at 12:51 PM.
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    5. 04-24-2012 08:54 PM #5220
      Quote Originally Posted by Martin Sheen View Post
      I have a 12v VR6 in my car, and I am in the process of shaving the engine bay, and I was wondering something....

      I have a non AC radiator harness that does NOT use the J293 coolant fan control module or aux water pump ...

      The gauge cluster coolant temperature sensor is a 4 pin sensor - F87(gauge cluster)/G2(after-run switch).

      Pin 1 - goes to the FCM and is used to trigger the aux water pump
      Pin 2 - goes to the fuseblock then traces to the gauge cluster (signal to gauge)
      Pin 3 - ground (for gauge cluster side)
      Pin 4 - ground (for aux water pump side)

      Like so -





      Here is the VR6 coolant gauge / aux water pump sensor -



      http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...Cooling/181/12



      And here is the 2 pin sensor from a Digi II MK2 -



      http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks.../Cooling/181/7



      I was wondering if it were as simple as de-pinning the 4 pin plug and running a Digi II sensor & 2 pin plug?

    6. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      04-24-2012 10:25 PM #5221
      Seems legit. Should send the same signal granted you wire it up right. Than you will have two wires to delete.
      Bags are for groceries.... I My Dub, So does your girl.
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    7. 04-25-2012 12:52 AM #5222
      Wiring it is easy. I am just worried about the temperature range the 2 sensors read.

    8. Member The Hater's Avatar
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      04-25-2012 08:15 AM #5223
      Quote Originally Posted by Deezy View Post


      Used a3 pedals, a3 clutchmaster , a3 non-abs booster, a2 brake master...

      Can you take some pictures showing what you did to get the a3 pedal cluster to work?

    9. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      04-25-2012 11:06 AM #5224
      Quote Originally Posted by The Hater View Post
      Can you take some pictures showing what you did to get the a3 pedal cluster to work?
      Words explain it a little better but I can get pics after work.
      First what I did was drilled three holes in the pedal assembly like I was going to bolt it to the old assembly. I wasn't paying attention but this ended up helping me as I bolted the pedal assembly to the fire wall with the bracket and marked the 4 holes to be drilled...
      The a3 pedals has a bracket for the clutch slave. It doesn't line up with any holes but you can see it from the outside. Drilled a hole than used a grinder like wheel on a drill to widen the hole to fit the master. Than drill the two outer holes that hold it in. Now with the booster bolted up good and snug take a piece if dowel or 2x2 and place it over this hole area and beat on it until the firewall is butted up the the clutch master bracket. Bolt up.

      Now u just need to make a bracket or two to strengthen it.

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      04-25-2012 03:48 PM #5225
      Or you could use corrado / passat pedal cluster with no modification or additional support needed other than hole for clutch master

    11. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      04-25-2012 08:01 PM #5226
      Quote Originally Posted by bonesaw View Post
      Or you could use corrado / passat pedal cluster with no modification or additional support needed other than hole for clutch master
      What he said..
      I didn't mind doing the extra labor and saving money.. I would have had to drive 2 hours for the parts car and I didn't know if it was hydraulic clutch/ vr6/ automatic/ non ABS... so yea.. simple bracket to strengthen the pedal cluster. I'm just going to remove both brackets from mk2 pedal cluster and tack weld on. It holds firm now but I don't know about slamming on the brakes yet....


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      04-25-2012 10:16 PM #5227
      The biggest thing is making sure you reinforce where the clutch master goes. I've seen car without that and it isn't pretty when it rips a hole in firewall

    13. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      04-25-2012 10:32 PM #5228
      Quote Originally Posted by bonesaw View Post
      The biggest thing is making sure you reinforce where the clutch master goes. I've seen car without that and it isn't pretty when it rips a hole in firewall
      The bracket for the clutch master bolts to the pedal cluster. So its pretty sturdy and I don't see it ripping the firewall.


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      04-25-2012 11:30 PM #5229
      I'm well aware. Just think its funny to have to fab something up when you can get the pieces to make it a bolt in situation. OE plus

    15. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      04-26-2012 10:13 AM #5230
      Quote Originally Posted by bonesaw View Post
      I'm well aware. Just think its funny to have to fab something up when you can get the pieces to make it a bolt in situation. OE plus
      When u have a complete mk3 gti for the swap it makes perfect sense. You can either spend a little time fabbing or a little time sourcing the parts and going out of pocket for them.

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      04-26-2012 02:32 PM #5231
      No matter what you need parts from more than a mk3. Ie the front motor crossmember.

    17. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      04-26-2012 05:29 PM #5232
      B3 b4 front crossmember and a3 non ABS booster was readily available. I don't see what the problem is here but your not making a point?

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    18. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      04-28-2012 05:52 PM #5233
      I'm missing something here...
      Car cranks but will not start. I had to jump the fuel relay to get gas to the rail... assuming ecu is not Turing on injectors or coil pack.
      I did the two fuses.to bypass alarm.
      Some things are still unpluhed like o2 sensors.
      no evap stuff

      ok... coil pack has 12v but im not getting any spark.
      i have to be getting gas because i have to worlds biggest headache and it smells like gas horrible in the garage. maybe crank sensor.. dont know? maybe swap with my mk3 tomorrow.
      engine ran fine when pulled. the rank sensor connector did kind of break but its together and connected good.


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      Last edited by Deezy; 04-28-2012 at 08:58 PM.
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    19. Member Moment Of Truth's Avatar
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      04-30-2012 09:10 PM #5234
      Hey I currently having a problem with my swap it's obd2 I have power to cluster
      But when I turn the key to on the miles and time fade away
      Also when I try to crank it it dosent crank at all I have a feeling I'm missing something can anybody help me out

    20. 04-30-2012 09:28 PM #5235
      is D/08 to E/02 jumped?

    21. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      04-30-2012 09:57 PM #5236
      Quote Originally Posted by Moment Of Truth View Post
      Hey I currently having a problem with my swap it's obd2 I have power to cluster
      But when I turn the key to on the miles and time fade away
      Also when I try to crank it it dosent crank at all I have a feeling I'm missing something can anybody help me out
      Sounds like loose wires on the battery.
      Clean them and tighten and report back.
      As for d8 to e2. The miles won't show unless this is jumped.


      Started my mk2 vr6 today for the first time. I had a bad crank sensor and the ignition wires I wired up a little wrong. Needed constant switched power instead of the wire I tapped into turned off when I cranked.
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    22. Member Moment Of Truth's Avatar
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      04-30-2012 10:19 PM #5237
      I just jumped it didn't do anything different my miles are on my cluster but when I turn the key they fade but when I turn it off it comes back up probally a bad ground but what about the no crank? Start isn't making any sound ? Also do I need a 30 30b wire for obd2

    23. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      04-30-2012 11:30 PM #5238
      Quote Originally Posted by Moment Of Truth View Post
      I just jumped it didn't do anything different my miles are on my cluster but when I turn the key they fade but when I turn it off it comes back up probally a bad ground but what about the no crank? Start isn't making any sound ? Also do I need a 30 30b wire for obd2
      Did you put fuses in the two connectors off the engine harness behind the relay panel. ??? One is for the alarm over ride.
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    24. Member Moment Of Truth's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 04:37 PM #5239
      Quote Originally Posted by Deezy View Post
      Did you put fuses in the two connectors off the engine harness behind the relay panel. ??? One is for the alarm over ride.
      Ya I put a 15 amp mini fuse in the red and red and black plug

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      05-01-2012 04:50 PM #5240
      You need 30-30b. Also is the clutch interlock relay powered? Is the Long red wires with green connector either jumped or connected to clutch interlock switch? Is the mk2 ignition harness still in the car? Is the seat belt plugged into the door?

    26. Member Moment Of Truth's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 06:24 PM #5241
      Quote Originally Posted by bonesaw View Post
      You need 30-30b. Also is the clutch interlock relay powered? Is the Long red wires with green connector either jumped or connected to clutch interlock switch? Is the mk2 ignition harness still in the car? Is the seat belt plugged into the door?
      What relay is supposed to go in it 53 also I have a mk3 and I think the green connecter ur talking about I have a fuse in it does anyone have a picture I can look at for the connector /relay

    27. Member Moment Of Truth's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 06:37 PM #5242
      Quote Originally Posted by Moment Of Truth View Post
      What relay is supposed to go in it 53 also I have a mk3 and I think the green connecter ur talking about I have a fuse in it does anyone have a picture I can look at for the connector /relay
      This one ur talking about right?

    28. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 08:13 PM #5243
      Quote Originally Posted by Moment Of Truth View Post
      This one ur talking about right?
      That one gets a mini 15 amp fuse. Also the bigger black one.
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    29. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      05-01-2012 08:15 PM #5244
      Quote Originally Posted by Deezy View Post
      That one gets a mini 15 amp fuse. Also the bigger black one.
      http://mk2vr6.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7831

      Double check ur wiring against that link.
      Without the fuse to the alarm over ride you get no crank.
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      05-01-2012 11:24 PM #5245
      Ok got the car to crank over but now I got no check engine light when I turn to on ??? Never ending lol

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      05-02-2012 12:15 AM #5246
      make sure relay is removed from postion 3 if obd2. check constant power at 54. ground at 1, switched ignition at 23.

    32. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      05-02-2012 08:50 AM #5247
      Quote Originally Posted by Moment Of Truth View Post
      Ok got the car to crank over but now I got no check engine light when I turn to on ??? Never ending lol
      Nice. Did it start?
      I have relay 3 with no problems? Obd2 I have no mil either. But the car didn't have it before. Using mk3 cluster from 4 cylinder. I believe some wire has to be attatched to the k line to turn on mil
      Reading Bentley to much will make u say mil :-(
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    33. Member Moment Of Truth's Avatar
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      05-04-2012 09:27 PM #5248
      Still no luck what should I check to get the check engine light and fuel gauge to work? Relay 3 is out

    34. Member Moment Of Truth's Avatar
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      05-04-2012 09:30 PM #5249
      Relay 94,79,18 click when I turn to on position ? If that helps anything

    35. Member Deezy's Avatar
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      05-04-2012 11:04 PM #5250
      Jump the starter solenoid. Know what I mean??
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