Why the ABF manifold? It would be great for NA gains in low end, but since you are going turbo, why not a short runner intake?
Bump, I updated the list. I also am waiting on UPs to deliver a bunch of parts i just ordered. Ill be sure and post up if i have any advice or any questions about the swap. I also want to note that i am using a ABF Full Intake Manifold and a OBD1 ABA Throttle Body.
Quote, originally posted by all-starr-me » Why the ABF manifold? It would be great for NA gains in low end, but since you are going turbo, why not a short runner intake?
Well the ABF manifold is actually bigger than the Euro 50mm 16v manifolds, Plus it will look great and it only cost me 310 shipped, short runner manifolds are prolly way more expensive. I doubt itll be a bottleneck since im using a SC61 Turbocharger, if it does become a bottleneck ill just have it port and polished.
I know the ABF is bigger than the 50mm euro manifold, But bigger means more piping and more space to fill, which takes longer to pressureize, inducing more lag.
It shouldn't be a big concern for you running that big of a charger, but a 40mm manifold will fill up faster than a 42mm or 50mm. A short runner would gain you even more and you could use whatever throttle body you want with it, any where you need it to make routing easier, and I've seen them going for good prices on here. hkk735 is making them for pretty cheap, ask him what they are going for.
problem with eurospecsport pistons... is that the 83mm x 92.8mm pistons have a CR at 13:1 and it is WAY too much for a daily application...
If I remember correctly there is a pic in here of an ABF intake mani and the TB on it is a VR6 OBD1 TB and it fits perfect... seems that the hole is bigger than the ABA 8v one...
there is another thing im kind of confused on turbo wise, I am looking for a kit for a 16v right not an ABA setup. Or would that even work cause ive been told that you have to use a scricco manifold?
My turbo setup will consist of the following:
Zornig Tubular Turbo Manifold
Mitsu Evo 8 Intercooler
Autolab LLC Racing 3.5 inch Downpipe
TiAL Sport 40mm External Wastegate
Dual Greddy Type S Blow Off Valves
Blitz Dual Turbo Timer
Blitz DUAL SBC TYPE R Boost Controller
Greddy Electronic 60mm Peak/Hold EGT Guage
3.5 inch Exhaust dump
2 inch Wastegate dump
i think thats about it, if i want any more power, i doubt i will but id have a intercooler sprayer that sprays freon through the intercooler.
I've got a 91 1.8l 8v GTI (Used to be daily, couldn't bring myself to get rid of it, so now it's a project)
I was originally just gonna use a 2.0l 16v out of a B3 Passat for my first engine swap (teaching myself as I go) but as of late I've been getting interested in turbos so I'm thinking I might try to knock out a few first in one fell swoop.... How hard would this be for my first semi-custom engine build, first turbo project, and first swap all in one?
Would you recommend something else? I was just gonna do the 2.0l 16v cause from what I can tell it is a very direct swap into my car.
I have not found 83mm x 92.8mm 16v 10.5:1 cast pistons on eurospecsport's website...
only the 82.5 @ 10.5:1 and the 83mm @ 13:1
porttuning.com has some 83mm but at 11.5:1.... do you think that with that kind of compression even with a diesel 02A starter (since I'm converted to 02A) and a lower octane fuel I would be safe enough to ride my ABA16v in the winter temps we have over here ??? To give you an idea, -30*C may happen 2-3 days in a row... constant -20*C...
your using a 16v head so you would use pistons that have relifs cut in them, the aba pistons have a big bowl in them lowering the cr so with the 16v flat tops it increases it. you could also mill your head. thatll raise it.
I've never said I would used 8v ABA pistons ? I'm talkin of bloc height...
secondo, I've found some 83mm x 92.8mm 10:1 ABA16v spec pistons on eurospecsport website... forged ones at 960$US My friend paid is G60 oversized JE pistons 920$cdn all included...
Eurospec sports definately has them for a 236mm deck height with both a 92.8mm and 95.5 stroke in 82.5mm, 83mm and 83.5mm bores, all with a 10:1 CR. They are cast, not forged and 289 to 319 in price. You don't need forged unless you are running boost which at a 10:1 CR you should not be doing. Cast allows you to run tighter tolerances on rings and end gaps as they won't expand as much as forged.
never see those when I've browse on their website !
Jose at porttuning quote me forged Wiseco @ 10.5:1 for 550$+shipping... those are cast for 319$usd...
which am I gonna buy
I'm not gonna add a spray kit so... is it a real need to have forged pistons ? But the .5 point in CR will make a bit more power than the 10:1...
think I need help folks
Modified by A3dOUde at 12:52 PM 9-25-2004
Well, put in the cast ones, then deck the block to get a 10.5:1 CR. The stock bore ones are 289, and any good machine shop should be able to tell how much needs removed for a .5 bump in compression ratio, it won't be very much material at all, less than the thickness of one gasket. They will usually include that if they are building your head or block as they want both surfaces to be flush and not warped when they bolt them up.
well i think i got hosed on here, so i am gonna just not do this and put the jetta on the back burner and just buy a friends car. If i cant get my money back on everything i bought(pretty much all the engine stuff) i may be taking a trip to philly. Sad to cause this is the first time ive gotten screwed on the vortex.
Quote, originally posted by German_Muscle » well i think i got hosed on here, so i am gonna just not do this and put the jetta on the back burner and just buy a friends car. If i cant get my money back on everything i bought(pretty much all the engine stuff) i may be taking a trip to philly. Sad to cause this is the first time ive gotten screwed on the vortex.
this is really bad to hear... Good luck and hope you'll stay around
Ok so just let me get this straight, if I was to swap a 16v head onto my aba block I would need all this?:
Pistons: 2.0L 16v
Head: 1.8L 16v or 2.0L 16v
Throttle Body: G60 or Automatic 16v
Intake Manifold: 1.8L 16v or 2.0L 16v
Timing Belt: Eurosport ABA 16v Or OEM 150 Tooth 1.8T
Idler/Tensioner Pulley: 9A 2.0L 16v
Oil Pump: 2.0L 16v
Oil Pump Drive: 2.0L 16v
Water Pump: 2.0L 16v
Water Pump Pulley: 2.0L 16v
Crank Pulley: 2.0L 16v
Alternator: 2.0L 16v
Alternator Pulley: 2.0L 16v
Alternator Belt: 2.0L 16v
Intermediate Shaft: 2.0L 16v
Fuel Pump: Rabbit CIS
Fuel Filter: CIS
Spark Plugs: 16v
Spark Plug Wires: 16v
Distributer Block Off: TT Block Off Plate
Im guessing that you cant do this swap with $400?
I talked to someone here on the forums a while ago that has a 9A head on an ABA block (2008cc was his s/n) and he said all I needed was "16v oil pump, intermediate shaft, and drive gear and distributor block off piece, and the longer timing belt". He's done this setup so why are people saying that we need the 9A pulleys now? Unless he forgot to mention that, which I doubt...
Also, does anyone make adapters to use the ABA throttle body with the 9A intake manifold? And will the ABA fuel injectors fit in 9A manifold as well?
Modified by Chris164935 at 10:24 AM 9-28-2004
"You know you have a bad idea when Ford guys are making fun of you."
FS: Autronic SM2, 500r CDI, Misc. Related Parts.
if you wanna keep your mk3 accessories, you'll need a modified crank pulley since the t-belt is larger than 8v, the 8v pulley won't fit anymore...
secondo, for the 9a pistons, in a 236mm tall bloc, Compression Ratio will drop from 10:1 to 9:1....