Where can a get good pistons for a na application with 10:1 to 11:1 compression?
I have not found 83mm x 92.8mm 16v 10.5:1 cast pistons on eurospecsport's website...
only the 82.5 @ 10.5:1 and the 83mm @ 13:1
porttuning.com has some 83mm but at 11.5:1.... do you think that with that kind of compression even with a diesel 02A starter (since I'm converted to 02A) and a lower octane fuel I would be safe enough to ride my ABA16v in the winter temps we have over here ??? To give you an idea, -30*C may happen 2-3 days in a row... constant -20*C...
your using a 16v head so you would use pistons that have relifs cut in them, the aba pistons have a big bowl in them lowering the cr so with the 16v flat tops it increases it. you could also mill your head. thatll raise it.
Pm me if you need a fender roller.
I've never said I would used 8v ABA pistons ? I'm talkin of bloc height...
secondo, I've found some 83mm x 92.8mm 10:1 ABA16v spec pistons on eurospecsport website... forged ones at 960$US My friend paid is G60 oversized JE pistons 920$cdn all included...
Eurospec sports definately has them for a 236mm deck height with both a 92.8mm and 95.5 stroke in 82.5mm, 83mm and 83.5mm bores, all with a 10:1 CR. They are cast, not forged and 289 to 319 in price. You don't need forged unless you are running boost which at a 10:1 CR you should not be doing. Cast allows you to run tighter tolerances on rings and end gaps as they won't expand as much as forged.
never see those when I've browse on their website !
Jose at porttuning quote me forged Wiseco @ 10.5:1 for 550$+shipping... those are cast for 319$usd...
which am I gonna buy
I'm not gonna add a spray kit so... is it a real need to have forged pistons ? But the .5 point in CR will make a bit more power than the 10:1...
think I need help folks
Modified by A3dOUde at 12:52 PM 9-25-2004
Well, put in the cast ones, then deck the block to get a 10.5:1 CR. The stock bore ones are 289, and any good machine shop should be able to tell how much needs removed for a .5 bump in compression ratio, it won't be very much material at all, less than the thickness of one gasket. They will usually include that if they are building your head or block as they want both surfaces to be flush and not warped when they bolt them up.
well i think i got hosed on here, so i am gonna just not do this and put the jetta on the back burner and just buy a friends car. If i cant get my money back on everything i bought(pretty much all the engine stuff) i may be taking a trip to philly. Sad to cause this is the first time ive gotten screwed on the vortex.
Quote, originally posted by German_Muscle » well i think i got hosed on here, so i am gonna just not do this and put the jetta on the back burner and just buy a friends car. If i cant get my money back on everything i bought(pretty much all the engine stuff) i may be taking a trip to philly. Sad to cause this is the first time ive gotten screwed on the vortex.
this is really bad to hear... [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthdown.gif[/IMG] Good luck and hope you'll stay around [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
Ok so just let me get this straight, if I was to swap a 16v head onto my aba block I would need all this?:
Pistons: 2.0L 16v
Head: 1.8L 16v or 2.0L 16v
Throttle Body: G60 or Automatic 16v
Intake Manifold: 1.8L 16v or 2.0L 16v
Timing Belt: Eurosport ABA 16v Or OEM 150 Tooth 1.8T
Idler/Tensioner Pulley: 9A 2.0L 16v
Oil Pump: 2.0L 16v
Oil Pump Drive: 2.0L 16v
Water Pump: 2.0L 16v
Water Pump Pulley: 2.0L 16v
Crank Pulley: 2.0L 16v
Alternator: 2.0L 16v
Alternator Pulley: 2.0L 16v
Alternator Belt: 2.0L 16v
Intermediate Shaft: 2.0L 16v
Fuel Pump: Rabbit CIS
Fuel Filter: CIS
Spark Plugs: 16v
Spark Plug Wires: 16v
Distributer Block Off: TT Block Off Plate
Im guessing that you cant do this swap with $400?
I talked to someone here on the forums a while ago that has a 9A head on an ABA block (2008cc was his s/n) and he said all I needed was "16v oil pump, intermediate shaft, and drive gear and distributor block off piece, and the longer timing belt". He's done this setup so why are people saying that we need the 9A pulleys now? Unless he forgot to mention that, which I doubt...
Also, does anyone make adapters to use the ABA throttle body with the 9A intake manifold? And will the ABA fuel injectors fit in 9A manifold as well?
Modified by Chris164935 at 10:24 AM 9-28-2004
if you wanna keep your mk3 accessories, you'll need a modified crank pulley since the t-belt is larger than 8v, the 8v pulley won't fit anymore...
secondo, for the 9a pistons, in a 236mm tall bloc, Compression Ratio will drop from 10:1 to 9:1....
Quote, originally posted by A3dOUde » if you wanna keep your mk3 accessories, you'll need a modified crank pulley since the t-belt is larger than 8v, the 8v pulley won't fit anymore...
and if i get that i wont need anything else off that list? (besides head and mani) that sounds too easy
Modified by LouderLowerFaster at 11:28 AM 9-28-2004
ok im thinking bout buying a complete aba engine, put it into my mk2, run that around till i can get al the 16v parts i need, then start to peice it together. a main concern is the wiring. would i use the obd1 wiring? since im buying a complete aba i woudl liek to use as much of the mk3 accessories as i can. o i would need that special pulley and then what 16v parts?
Are you going turbo or N/A? The 9A pistons will give you an 8.5-9:1 compression ratio, great for turbo, but you still won't gain much from keeping it N/A. If you aren't going for a charger then factor in some good cams, or at the very least a euro intake cam.
If you are OBD 1 you should be able to use the g-60 or auto 16v throttle body, otherwise you will need an adapter plate to fit your aba throttle to the manifold.
You left out a 16v fuel rail, bbm or ross machine racing have them. you will need digi injector cups to make your injectors fit.
If you are staying N/A then get the ABF pistons that I posted on the previous page. The distributor block off plate comes from a 16v engine, the one TT sells is to block off your breather, not your distributor.
Use you A3 accesories, but you will need 6mm shaved from the serpentine pulley. I have seen some people weld or machine the 16v intermediate timing gear to fit on the 8v intermediate shaft, saves having to change the oil pump and intermedait shaft, but leaves you with an extra distributor.
For N/A gains try and get a 50mm euro manifold or an ABF with fuel rail and throttle body. for turbo a short funner will be better.
You could do this swap with 400, but it wouldn't either A.) be turbo and B.) gain you very much if any real power.