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    Thread: lets get a ABA 16v Parts List/FAQ Thread going

    1. 12-23-2004 03:18 AM #176
      My friend gave me an ABA block, and I have a 1.8L 16V motor that threw a rod. The head and all the accessories are okay, but there is a hole in the block, and piston/cylidner 3 are screwed... I want to run a turbo eventually, but I want to get my car back on the road... Can I just stick my 16V head on the aba block and run low compression for a while? What kind of sacrifices will I face by running the low compression? I'm definatly goign to do a turbo, so 9a pistons are out of the question... I want the ability to be there, but I can't afford the turbo system right now... I just want to get my car on the road... Any suggestions? [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    2. 12-23-2004 08:54 AM #177
      also are we talking about the 1.8T head or the older N/A head?
      Thanks!

    3. 12-23-2004 09:27 PM #178
      no comment on my last post?

    4. Member hasnfefr's Avatar
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      12-24-2004 01:07 AM #179
      From what I've gathered, you need a 9A inter. shaft, oil pump, dist. block off plate, timing belt pullies, figure out which belt set up you want to use, ABA head gasket, some thing to block off the crank sensor hole, and I think that's it. I am supposing that there is a differance between the 1.8 int. shaft and the 2.0 one, but not certain. I'm currently up against the same thing you are. Good luck.

    5. 12-24-2004 02:02 AM #180
      I have a complete 1.8L 16V engine... I havent tore the damn thing apart yet, I hope the oil pump and inter shaft werent dammaged when it threw a rod... We'll see though.... I just want to know if 8:1 is enough compression to run the engine in NA form.

    6. 12-24-2004 04:06 AM #181
      Quote, originally posted by mkiii2.0jetta »
      I have been reading this post and it has done nothing but make me want a 16V swap really badly. I have a 1999 MkIII Jetta 2.0 8V Turbo ABA. From what i see most of the people doing this swap arent obd2 and i need to know can it be done on an obd2 so that it will still pass emissions. I would love to do the swap but i still need the car to be legal.
      I also need to some things clarified. Can i use all stock internals (ie pistons, rods, and crank) and not blow up my engine. I would assume when i use the 16V head ot of a passat 2.0 16V it drops the compression to around 8.5:1 which is ideal for forced induction. And as far as fueling goes what size injectors with what fuel rail and FPR for around 10-12psi boost application (t3 super 60 garrett). I would appreciate any help possible.

      Modified by mkiii2.0jetta at 12:51 AM 12-22-2004

      You can do it and have it still be emisions legal, but that said going turbo you will probably have to remove the secondary air injection, or make a port for it on the exhaust manifold. Early OBD 2 cars came without secondary air injection up until mid 97 or so. Get the computor from one of these and you can eliminate the air pump.
      The compression with your ABA pistons should be 8.1:1, and any 16v head will work from any golf, jetta, scirrocco and passat. The T3 will be a little small so you may want higher boost on such low compression, it will give some nice lowend but may run out near the top. As for injectors go with some 42#, a BBM or ross fuel rail and a 3, 3.5 or 4 bar FPR depending on what you get your chip or management set for and what your HP goals are.

    7. 12-24-2004 04:19 AM #182
      Quote, originally posted by XlockjawX »
      what about using a odbII block? I've got a 98 gti that I'm thinking about doing a turbo hybrid on just want to know if there would be any problems useing the odbII block.

      You can use an OBD 2 block succesfully, its the same for the most part, but you are going to need to remove it from the car to do some of the work on it, so either expect some major downtime or buy another block to build up until its ready to go in. also the obd 2 block may limit your power goals as I'm not sure how much the cast crank will handle, 300, 350 whp maybe?

    8. 12-24-2004 04:25 AM #183
      Quote, originally posted by MA_XXX »
      what are peeps doing about the coolant flange on the front of the head??? it contacts the ABA non-AC waterpump/alt bracket.

      It comes pretty close, I have seen people with the plastic flange squeeze a hose in there, Otherwise I have a metal one I will turn the other direction and shorten some to fit the hose on.

    9. 12-24-2004 04:43 AM #184
      Quote, originally posted by DieselT0rque »
      My friend gave me an ABA block, and I have a 1.8L 16V motor that threw a rod. The head and all the accessories are okay, but there is a hole in the block, and piston/cylidner 3 are screwed... I want to run a turbo eventually, but I want to get my car back on the road... Can I just stick my 16V head on the aba block and run low compression for a while? What kind of sacrifices will I face by running the low compression? I'm definatly goign to do a turbo, so 9a pistons are out of the question... I want the ability to be there, but I can't afford the turbo system right now... I just want to get my car on the road... Any suggestions? [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      I hear you on that, I am going to fit mine and run it 500-1000 miles to break in the new rings before I turbo it, just to make sure they seat right. I figure the 9A pistons should give between an 8.5 and an 8.9:1 compression ratio, which should be fine for either N/A or turbo, many older 8v blocks ran an 8-8.5:1 before knock sensors and such. It will lower your off the line response and such but will still remain drivable. When I do add the turbo I plan to deck the block so I have a nice 9:1 compresion ratio, assuming I don't already at that point. Killa ran 35+ psi on his with 9A pistons from a GT35R, and the 20v blocks all run a 9.3-9.5:1. I see no reason to ever go under 8.5:1 with good tuning, its just not needed. put the money on the tuning first then the turbo, as tuning will always be the weakest point.

    10. 12-24-2004 04:46 AM #185
      Quote, originally posted by XlockjawX »
      also are we talking about the 1.8T head or the older N/A head?
      Thanks!

      we are talking the older N/A head, but much of this can apply to the 1.8t as well, it is similar, but see the thread in the G-60 forum for more on the 1.8t.

    11. 12-24-2004 04:51 AM #186
      It should be, but you will probably need the oil pump and IM. shaft from a 9A to make it work, I should have some extras in a few weeks if anyone wants them, I'll let you know when I get them.

    12. 12-24-2004 08:27 AM #187
      awesome, thanks! 300-400 whp is a little much for me (never thought I would say that!) I'm looking more for around 200 whp, I don't really have a need for more then that sence I'm planing on this being my daly.

    13. 12-24-2004 11:17 AM #188
      I hear the aba block and pistons with the 16V head make 8.0:1 so I think I am going to try that... I guess this weekend I'll start taking the stuff off my 1.8 block and see if I am going to need a new pump/inter shaft due to the engine being blown... Low low low compression will be bad for performance on NA, I know, but I still have a diesel mentality... If you don't have enough compression it is VERY hard to start the engine in the cold, but I guess I never thought about the fact that they ran 8:1 before knock sensors were used... Thanks for all the information and responses... I am pretty sure what I need to do now. If anybody has a dififant fuel rail for the 16V, I am going to need one
      Thanks peeps! Frohe weihnachten jeder!


      Modified by DieselT0rque at 4:19 PM 12-24-2004

    14. Member mkiii2.0jetta's Avatar
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      12-24-2004 11:22 PM #189
      Thanks for the info man. I have the t3 now because if i used anything larger on a 2.0 slow 8v with stock internals and compression ratio of like 10.5:1 it would quite easily spell the end of my car. I would want to eventually go with something like a GT28RS or the larger 30 (my dream turbos).
      As for the secondary air injection that is where air is introduced into the exhaust via a pump that bolts up right in front of the intake manifold. My car didnt come equipped with any such horse **** so i am fine as far as that goes.
      Also will i be able to use the distributor in my aba, alternator, water pump, oil pump, crank pulley, all the pulleys or is it impossible. Is it easier to use the list of items on page one or absolutely necessary? And call me stupid but what in the hell is an imtermediate shaft?


      Modified by mkiii2.0jetta at 11:35 PM 12-24-2004

    15. 12-24-2004 11:56 PM #190
      An Intermediate shaft is the shaft that is spun by the timing belt, and is used to turn the oil pump. On 8Vs, such as the ABA it is also used to spin the dizzy.

    16. Member pozer's Avatar
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      12-26-2004 10:47 AM #191
      Quote, originally posted by MA_XXX »
      what are peeps doing about the coolant flange on the front of the head??? it contacts the ABA non-AC waterpump/alt bracket.

      I had mine cut and basically welded to come straight out instead of being at an angel

    17. Member xpalendocious's Avatar
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      12-27-2004 12:27 AM #192
      Quote, originally posted by hasnfefr »
      From what I've gathered, you need a 9A inter. shaft, oil pump, dist. block off plate, timing belt pullies, figure out which belt set up you want to use, ABA head gasket, some thing to block off the crank sensor hole, and I think that's it. I am supposing that there is a differance between the 1.8 int. shaft and the 2.0 one, but not certain. I'm currently up against the same thing you are. Good luck.

      The 9a int shaft is thinner than the 1.8 16v int shaft. The 1.8 16v int shaft will interfere with the 2.0 crankshaft.

    18. 12-27-2004 12:56 AM #193
      damn it!!!! that's it. I'm gonna get a 2.0L 16V shortblock.... unless somebody wants to part with their 2.0 im shaft.

    19. 12-27-2004 02:52 AM #194
      Quote, originally posted by mkiii2.0jetta »
      Thanks for the info man. I have the t3 now because if i used anything larger on a 2.0 slow 8v with stock internals and compression ratio of like 10.5:1 it would quite easily spell the end of my car. I would want to eventually go with something like a GT28RS or the larger 30 (my dream turbos).
      As for the secondary air injection that is where air is introduced into the exhaust via a pump that bolts up right in front of the intake manifold. My car didnt come equipped with any such horse **** so i am fine as far as that goes.
      Also will i be able to use the distributor in my aba, alternator, water pump, oil pump, crank pulley, all the pulleys or is it impossible. Is it easier to use the list of items on page one or absolutely necessary? And call me stupid but what in the hell is an imtermediate shaft?
      Modified by mkiii2.0jetta at 11:35 PM 12-24-2004

      Yeah the T3 is about perfect for the 8v, it will work with the 16v but you might want to look into a basic T3/T04E at some point as a nice upgrade. No Secondary air, nice, I thought they all had it after 97 but I guess some didn't.
      You can use all your existing accesories but you will have to shave the sepentine pulley 6mm to make it line up again as the 16v timing gear is 6mm wider. Futrells will do this for you if you need one made. The intermediate shaft drives the distributor, but you can use the one on the 16v head if you change the hall sendor over to a single window. You can also use the one on the block if you use a 16v cam gear on the 16v intermediate shaft, rather than the 16v intermediate gear. this means you will need an extra cam gear, maybe a great time to add an adjustable one.

    20. 12-27-2004 02:55 AM #195
      Quote, originally posted by DieselT0rque »
      damn it!!!! that's it. I'm gonna get a 2.0L 16V shortblock.... unless somebody wants to part with their 2.0 im shaft.

      I'm pretty sure the 1.8 and 2.0 16v's also use different drive gears on the oil pump, but I'm not sure they could have the same spline, you'll really have to open it up to see.

    21. 12-27-2004 10:48 PM #196
      Well.... this all sounds like more work than it's worth. Heres the qeustion. What would the real difference be between the aba block and the 9a block? it's all 2.0L right? It depends on the internals you use, but what is the real main reason for using an aba vs a 9a? Is that because of the availibility of the 9a? I'm thinking about just sourcing a 9a bottom end.

    22. Member xpalendocious's Avatar
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      12-27-2004 11:19 PM #197
      Quote, originally posted by DieselT0rque »
      Well.... this all sounds like more work than it's worth. Heres the qeustion. What would the real difference be between the aba block and the 9a block? it's all 2.0L right? It depends on the internals you use, but what is the real main reason for using an aba vs a 9a? Is that because of the availibility of the 9a? I'm thinking about just sourcing a 9a bottom end.

      Yup, it is all about availability. Unless you are going turbo, it IS more hassle than it is worth.
      I have a 9a block for cheap if you want...

    23. 12-28-2004 12:09 AM #198
      IM sent.

    24. 12-28-2004 04:46 AM #199
      The real difference is the longer rods which give smoother torque and more power with boost, and the crank trigger wheel which is important for keeping the motronic management in the mk3 cars. I can get you a 9A short block for $100+ shipping if you want to go that route though, or trade you for your ABA block if its an early one.


      Modified by all-starr-me at 4:49 AM 12-28-2004

    25. 12-28-2004 11:40 AM #200
      It's OBD II unfortunatly... IM sent about the block

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