MKIV door locks explained - why you're having problems!!! :(

[VgRt6]

Lunchtime bump.

Gary

[1point8TRay]

My GF's car had this problem and her car is an 02. She had the early 02 model. Her driver's side door would not lock at times and would not lock when going over 15 mph. It did suck having to walk back to the car to make sure it was locked, and if it wasn't, having to lock it manually.

Since her car is an 02, it was replaced under warranty which is good.

[mschaff]

I was just at the dealer picking up a MAF sensor and a guy came in with the exact same lock problem. I tried to tell him what the problem probably was, but he just ignored me like I wasn't even there.

My moment of satisfaction was when the parts guy quoted him $350 to look at it. It was obvious this wasn't the first time he was there for the same issue. The guy got all bent out of shape and stormed out. Screw 'em...it's people like this that deserve to get reamed by the dealer.

On another note, I got the MAF and the parts guy questioned what I wanted it for. He said it's very rare for someone to ask for that part over the counter. He was convinced I was from a garage somewhere. Funny.

--
Mike

[VgRt6]

Quote, originally posted by mschaff »

My moment of satisfaction was when the parts guy quoted him $350 to look at it. It was obvious this wasn't the first time he was there for the same issue. The guy got all bent out of shape and stormed out. Screw 'em...it's people like this that deserve to get reamed by the dealer.

Haha. That's classic!

Quote, originally posted by mschaff »

On another note, I got the MAF and the parts guy questioned what I wanted it for. He said it's very rare for someone to ask for that part over the counter. He was convinced I was from a garage somewhere. Funny.

I'm sure their heads spin when someone walks in who knows more about their products than they do. And I'm sure it happens a lot!

Gary


Modified by VgRt6 at 8:04 PM 8-16-2004

[VgRt6]

TTT

Gary

[VgRt6]

Info about the failure of my passenger's side door lock module has been added to the original post.

Gary


Modified by VgRt6 at 7:40 AM 8-20-2004

[TMTuned99.5Golf]

WOW!!! I can't wait to take apart my door module to check this out in my '99.5 Golf cause I'm having the same problem. Only thing is that when I open my door and if I don't stick the key in the ignition soon enough and turn the power on, my doors wil relock themselves and/or alarm will go off. Man that's embarassing in a parking lot! People think I'm trying to steal the car, but it's my own car!

I'll try this in the next few weeks, but time to bookmark this page and save it on my computer!!!

You're the man!!!! MUCH appreciated!!!!

[VgRt6]

I took pics for a DIY and will hopefully be putting it together this weekend.

Gary

[lynchman]

Quote, originally posted by Der Kommissar »

Awesome write up-it seems that the 99.5 cars have a lot of problems with this.

Yeah - the front and rear driver side locks on my 99.5 are totally wacked. I gotta do this soon....

Thanks for the writeup!

[Brake_Dust]

I also have a 99.5

I know where to look if it really becomes a problem

thanks for taking the time to document this

[pork]

I got a 99.5 Jetta, same problem.
My drivers side door lock is whacked!

[VgRt6]

I wonder what percentage of the early MKIV cars have this problem? It's got to be ridiculously high and I wouldn't be surprised if it was 80-90% (or more)!

Gary

[mschaff]

The locks on my g/f's car have never been quite right and we've always had to go back and double check that the driver's side door locked properly. This weekend I had the alarm go off on me in front of AutoZone no less than 5 times before I could get it to lock properly...

I hate living in an apartment! I would have fixed this a while ago if I had a decent place to tear the car door apart.

It would be nice when people fix this, that they snap a picture of the cracked solder joints. Maybe enough of these pictures can spur VW to admit a manufacturing defect and fix it for free .

--
Mike

[VgRt6]

Quote, originally posted by mschaff »

The locks on my g/f's car have never been quite right and we've always had to go back and double check that the driver's side door locked properly. This weekend I had the alarm go off on me in front of AutoZone no less than 5 times before I could get it to lock properly...

If I had a dollar for every time the alarm went off because of the door locks ...

Quote, originally posted by mschaff »

I hate living in an apartment! I would have fixed this a while ago if I had a decent place to tear the car door apart.

Me too. I finally said screw it and did the whole thing in the apartment lot. For what I pay in rent, I should have my own garage and two bikini-clad helpers. Luckily, they've never said anything to me about me working on the car.

Quote, originally posted by mschaff »

It would be nice when people fix this, that they snap a picture of the cracked solder joints. Maybe enough of these pictures can spur VW to admit a manufacturing defect and fix it for free . -- Mike

Exactly. That's another reason I started this thread. I was hoping the fix would catch on and the thread would become huge. Ironically, I work for a company that does failure analyses, usually for big accidents and disasters, but we also do smaller liability/litigation stuff like the locks. I'd be glad to write a failure analysis report on company letterhead to send to VWOA - hopefully that and the PhD after my name would get this noticed. I'll need more than the three examples I have so far though.

If you do this fix, please send me pics to include in the report !!!

BTW, I'm repairing a lock module for a local Vortexer tomorrow. I'll definitely be taking pics for the file.

Gary


Modified by VgRt6 at 11:13 AM 8-23-2004

[mschaff]

Quote, originally posted by VgRt6 »

...hopefully that and the PhD after my name would get this noticed.

I'm glad to see that a Ph.D. is good for something. (I'm starting my fifth year of grad school )

--
Mike

[VgRt6]

Quote, originally posted by mschaff »

I'm glad to see that a Ph.D. is good for something. (I'm starting my fifth year of grad school ) -- Mike

Not as much as it used to though. And don't get me started about being in school for a long time. I'll let you know when you get close to my record!

Gary

[VgRt6]

Added some info about another lock module failure to the original post.

Gary

[frostback]

My problem is that most times when I hit unlock the doors unlock but then lock again right away. It takes 2 or 3 tries before they stay unlocked. Anyone else have this or know how to fix it? Thanks.

[VgRt6]

Sounds like a problem with the module. I'm not sure what the specific cause, but my guess would be the broken solder joints making intermittent contact as the door unlocks (and then locks again).

Gary

[DubberNix]

Great write up.

In a wierd way, I'm dissapointed that my 02.5 doesn't have this problem. I'm always happy when I get to break out my soldering iron

[VgRt6]

Quote, originally posted by DubberNix »

Great write up. In a wierd way, I'm dissapointed that my 02.5 doesn't have this problem. I'm always happy when I get to break out my soldering iron

Haha. I kind of feel the same way now that both of mine are fixed. Maybe that's why I've been fixing modules from other people's cars.

Gary


Modified by VgRt6 at 7:31 PM 8-26-2004

[jddaigle]

Quote, originally posted by VgRt6 »

It seems like there's problem with some '00 and '01 cars as well.

My '01 had the bad microswitch in the mechanical portion problem (door didn't know when it was open), and I did notice that since I got it replaced (under warranty) that lock is much quieter than the other 3. I also noticed that the locks on my father's 2004 Jetta are much quieter than those on my '01.

I owned a couple of mid-eighties Volvo wagons and frequented http://www.brickboard.com. That site has a wonderful comprehensive FAQ full of information just like in this post (old Volvos have plenty of places where solder cracks, such as in the fuel pump relay and overdrive relay). Over many years, knowledgeable people who cared enough to document their experiences made that site into just about the only site you need to keep an old Volvo running. Hopefully with time & with the help of people like Gary, this site will become the same for MkIV VWs. Many to you!


Modified by jddaigle at 4:14 PM 8-26-2004

[mschaff]

So, I still haven't tried the fix yet (no free time), but after reading your update, I had a couple questions:

1. If it turns out to be a bad microswitch, how would one test this?

2. Will VW sell you just the switch or try to sell you the entire lock module assembly? How about a part number?

I just don't want to rip the door apart only to have to put it back together to drive to VW.

Thanks.

--
Mike

[Kei78]

Great thread, bump, to get this in my tracked threads to print this out later

[VgRt6]

Quote, originally posted by mschaff »

So, I still haven't tried the fix yet (no free time), but after reading your update, I had a couple questions: 1. If it turns out to be a bad microswitch, how would one test this? 2. Will VW sell you just the switch or try to sell you the entire lock module assembly? How about a part number? I just don't want to rip the door apart only to have to put it back together to drive to VW. Thanks. -- Mike

1. More than likely it's the broken solder contacts. In this case, all you have to do is resolder the contacts and all will be good. If it's one of the switches that failed, then you'll need to replace the switch. To test the switch, you'll need a digital multimeter (DMM). Set the meter to continuity or resistance. With the plunger on the switch in it's normal (not depressed) state, the circuit inside the switch should be open (the continuity alarm will NOT sound and/or the resistance should be infinite. When the plunger is in it's activated/depressed state, the circuit should be closed - the continuity alarm WILL sound and/or the resistance should be essentially zero. (I'm pretty sure the switches are normally open, so they should behave as described above. Howeve, if the switches are normally closed, then they would be have opposite to the above, undepressed would be a closed circuit and depressed would be an open circuit).

2. VW will not sell the switches separately since they don't stock them for repairs. They will only be able to sell you a whole new module. I've tracked down the part numbers for the 3 smaller switches in the electronic portion of the module. They are Cherry DK Series switches - I have the part numbers at work. You should be able to order one off the internet for a couple of bucks. A local store may also stock them or be able to get one as well. When you get the new one, you would need to simply unsolder the three leads on the old switch and resolder them on the new switch. The switch actually has two locator posts to make installation virtually fool-proof.

The 4th switch, the bigger one in the mechanical portion of the switch is made by Burgess. I have yet to find the part number for this one. The module failure I described in my most recent update in the original post was actually due to this switch failing. Since I don't have a part# or source for this switch yet, the Vortexer I helped is just going to buy a new module. Once I find the info, this will be able to be repaired as well.

Gary


Modified by VgRt6 at 6:54 PM 8-29-2004

[VgRt6]

Michael - If you can describe how the door behaves when it's acting up, I can probably make an educated guess as to what's wrong with it. That could save you the hassle of opening up the door only to have to put it back together without fixing anything.

Also, what door is it? The part number for the module is door specific.

Gary

[mschaff]

Quote, originally posted by VgRt6 »

Michael - If you can describe how the door behaves when it's acting up, I can probably make an educated guess as to what's wrong with it. That could save you the hassle of opening up the door only to have to put it back together without fixing anything. Also, what door is it? The part number for the module is door specific. Gary

Thanks Gary...your explanations are quality. You should be writing for Bentley.

It's a little hard to reproduce because the problems don't always occur. I assume this may be an indicator of a bad solder joint that often makes good contact rather than a bad switch which would either be good or not.

Here are the symptoms (as I can remember them):

- All problems occur with the driver's side door (on a 2-door).

- Unlock door with remote or key, get in, close door, after a few seconds, both doors lock. Trying to start car sets alarm off.

- Unlock door with remote, get in, leave driver door open, after a few seconds, the car locks only the other door. Driver door stays unlocked.

- With both doors closed and unlocked, very often locking the car with FOB, only passenger door locks.

Does this sound more like a solder joint or a switch? Thanks. for you.

--
Mike

[VgRt6]

Sounds like it's the solder joints. The kicker is when you lock the doors and the door doesn't lock. In EVERY case I've been involved in to this point where this has happened (all 4 of them ), it's been the solder joints. The one failure where it was the switch instead of the joints (they were immaculate actually), the car was an '01. All the others (bad contacts) have been '99.5 or '00 cars.

Gary

[mschaff]

Thanks Gary. I'll finally have time over the Labor Day weekend to check this out (along with a timing belt/water pump/thermostat replacement). I'll post pics of the joints.

Quote, originally posted by VgRt6 »

In EVERY case I've been involved in to this point where this has happened (all 4 of them ), it's been the solder joints.

Seems statistically significant to me... Better start drafting that letter to VWoA.

--
Mike

[VgRt6]

I'll start the draft when we hit 6. No statistician worth his salt could contest a sample population of that magnitude!

Gary

[KeyWestDub]

and all this time I thought I was slamming my door too hard. I have a problem with my door not knowing when the key has been inserted though. I think that has to do more with the last time I took my door apart to replace the window regulator (suprise). I think when I put the door parts back together I screwed up the lock tab.

[VgRt6]

Quote, originally posted by KeyWestDub »

I have a problem with my door not knowing when the key has been inserted though.

What happens exactly (or doesn't)? Does the key not turn? Or does it not recognize when the key is turned to unlock or lock the doors?

Gary

[mujjuman]

nice job man

thank god both my jettas have no probs with locks

[wumberlog]

Stellar, informative and nicely detailed write-up. Posts like this make this place what it really should be. But I myself have a nice worry-free aftermarket warranty on my 99.5 and I leave issues like this to the guys at my local VW service center. btw, I haven't had door locking problems on mine, just a sticky driver's window.

[rainfairy]

DubberNix, you're welcome to help with mine

Of course the soldering's not that bad... taking the door apart is what I dread.
But it would be nice to have things back to normal and not worry about accidentally killing my battery by leaving my lights on for an extended time!

Thanks DR GARY and all others who contributed to these revelations.

EVERYONE WHO DOES THIS FIX SEND VgRt6 PICTURES (as requested by him above) so he has documentation of our pain and suffering to include in an appeal for help to Volkswagen of America.