Last edited by Hillbilly Rocco; 11-24-2010 at 10:44 PM.
I am wondering if loose joints are the same as a golf? My problem is when you press the remote to unlock doors, the drivers door just buzzes and the passenger door unlocks. You have to reach thru the pass. door to open drivers, but it locks right back up as soon as you shut the door. Does this sound like micro swithes or bad joints on card?
Thanks for the helpful information. I just installed a BRAND NEW (from the dealer) door lock assembly on my 2000 jetta, and I am still having the same issues. Whether I use the remote or just use the key. When the door locks then unlocks, I can never open the door from the outside. The car still thinks the door is locked. If I pound on the door from the outside, the latch then releases then unlocks the door. I'm wondering if it's possible to have these bad solder joints on a new latch. I'm thinking it could be an electrical issue as well. Thanks.
I had to elongate the holes at where the door latch is secured to the door and secure the latch slightly tilted outward at the top since the door lock rod was too close to the inner door metal and it was not completely unlocking. Also, a slight adjustment to the door striker made all the difference too.
I have a 2000 VW Jetta TDI that is having the same problems everyone else is having with the locks/alarm etc.
Since VW is being ignorant, we all need to file complains with the NHTSA, here is the link I am going to use:
Also, someone must know a money hungry lawyer who would take this on as a class action suit!
anyone have this door latch issue...and also have a battery draining overnight? Seems that I might be having with the ECU not noticing the door closed. Causing the car not to go into sleep mode. Thus Causing the battery to drain over night. Even faster with the cold weather.
Also. Anyone have the radio shack part number for the 3 switches? I might have to do this very soon.
Washed the car late and it was cold... Drove to my girls house
and the car sat for a few hours. When I went to leave the door
was almost frozen shut.. Gave it a little pull and it opened with
no problem.....Started the car to warm up went inside came
back out to go home and the damn door ajar light was on...
Check all doors and hatch and still have the light on.
Key Fob wont lock but will un-lock... So do i have to do surgery
on the door for the switch or does it sound like a case of
something being frozen...? Also when I went to turn the
key in the door it was tough....so i put some WD40 to loosen it
up it turned after some time but still have the light...
Going to look at in the morning.......
Any pointers besides ripping the door card off and going right
to the switches ?
Thanks for any help.....
Dubs of Queens!
Before you rip anything apart, I would try parking it inside with doors open and fans running, over night or so. If you have anywhere you can park it, I would try that.
Also, I think Vagcom will show you which switch signals that a door is open, so if you can get a hold of one, look into that. That way you at least know with which door to start.
My car has this problem also....The unpredictable locking and unlocking of doors. When i first bought the car it locked me out while running, i manages to jar the door around a bit and unlock the latch, and then jiggle a bit more and somehow it let go.
I thought i was going crazy and mabye had locked myself out. I forgot and a few days later it did the same. the day after the second encounter with Alienius locks, i heard the car locking and unlocking as i was walking away, and when i locked it, it double beeped, from then on it i leave my car running or key in the car, i try and leave a door open, but if i run into a store or something i shut the door and leave me window open, kind of a pain in the ass when in -20 celcius in Canada right now!
Guess ill take apart my module and take a look, im hoping its the cracked soldering joints, easy fix, and alot cheaper than a microsensor lol..
Awesome thread thanks guys! you sure have helped alot of people from ALOT of frusteration!!
Fine! You win Door Actuator!
If you've read my earlier posts in this thread you know I've had the same problem as all of you: failed microswitch.
I first had a failed microswitch with the front passenger door 5 years ago but since I didn't use it much I let it linger. Fixed it about 3 years ago and still working fine.
Then, a year ago, the driver's door microswitch failed. OK. No problem get the RadioShack Zippy microswitch as before and fixed it. Worked for about a month then died.
I have a 2001 Golf 4-Door 1.8T and live near Seattle where it rains alot and a lot of moisture. The Zippy microswitch is not sealed, so took everything apart and lubed it up with bulb grease. Worked another month then died. Worked for a week, then died. So on and so on, depending on temp, moisture, and the gods, it worked, sometimes, and didn't other times.
Numerous alarm triggers and 3 battery jump starts due to no chime and accidentally leaving the lights on when opening drivers door (also probably need a new battery for $125 sometime soon )..
Finally gave in and got the new "AS" part number 3b1837015AS from 1stVWParts for around $140 shipped, as I had the old (original?) 3b1837015J part.
The new part is just amazing. Silky quiet on lock/unlock and just a joy use. Feels like I have a new car, well OK not truly. People don't do it justice on this thread though. Since it is the lock mechanism, the door slam sound is more robust.
The outside door handle is more responsive like a new car, and the inside handle is silky slick at first then a good "thump" when you open it from the inside.
Be aware you need to keep the original pulley cables for the outside and inside door handles, and door pin stalk from the old one as the new doesn't come with them, just the base unit arrives. Which is just fine and works on the new one like butter.
You also need to drill out the old rivet. And, if you can, put a new rivet in there. I didn't have a means to add a new rivet and and just stuck it back in there and that is ok. For some of you who are on rough roads though it might "rub" with hard plastic on hard plastic so either duct tape it together, or re-rivet it. I just added some foam padding so they would not "clang" against each other. Remember, the 3b1837015AS is bolted to the end of the door, and the other piece is plastic riveted to the metal door inter-frame. So, no worries really.
I rarely advocate redoing the entire bathroom for a dripping faucet, but in this case JUST DO IT! You will be so much happier in the end. Done. Solved. Move on. And hope VW FINALLY does a recall on this piece so you can get your money back..
Last edited by Oly_Golf; 03-07-2011 at 11:04 PM.
I replaced my switch over the summer...and its worked flawlessly. Then..out of the blue, this past weekend, it started to screw up. Going down the road my interior lights would come on and the chime would set off. Opening and slamming the door (while driving haha) would make it stop...then a little while after it would do it again. Once home, the alarm kept going off. So I just locked everything manually and went to bed.
The next day...and since then...its worked perfectly fine again. It was rainy on the day it malfunctioned, so maybe its like Oly_Golf said and its due to not being weather sealed.
Needless to say. If it really starts to act up again, Ill be going with the replacement piece. One time taking it apart to fix/rig it was ok. But Im not going to make this a common thing for sure.
The exact same thing happened to me in December on a very WET drive down to Portland.
It kept going off and tried to slam the door, fixed for awhile then went off again.
Finally died about 2 weeks later, but at least it was in "closed" position so it wasn't as bad.
I tried to seal it after that, but it didn't help at all. After the third time I finally just got the new piece.
I know it's a fair stack of pennies, but for the peace of mind, it is well worth it.
Yeah. I mean...the switch was so cheap that it was worth a shot. But its too much work to take that stuff all apart, solder in the new switch, make the spacers etc, for something that is just going to stop working in a short time.
I also have issues with my lock knob not staying down when in the lock position. The door locks, but the knob stays up. I think its due to a broken spring...but as I havent sourced just the spring, I cant say. So I could probably use a whole new unit either way. I just got a full rack system with bike trays...so hopefully the module holds out a while longer.
I figure..if it only acts up when its wet, at least spring is coming haha. Maybe that will help it last.
With the door knob its probably part of the spring or sticking under the silver philips screw in the left bottom of the photo, probably not really an issue I imagine.
Btw, I opened my original part 3b1837015J to see if any of the soldering contacts had cracked (as I've heard others had that problem which caused intermittent opened/closed issues) to find that VW had sprayed a clear resin coating over it to prevent it from cracking.
So, you might want to rule that out, though I can't confirm all "J" parts are sealed like that. Just thought I'd let you know since taking it apart was a serious PITA...
When I had my module out to replace the switch, I cleaned it, re-soldered every single connection, re-greased everything, sealed her back up. I did have a couple of cracks in the solder joints, as I was experiencing other issues along with the switch haha.
The spring you are speaking of...is actually gone haha. It was broken in half, so I just left it out. IM almost sure thats whats causing my knob to not stay in position. Ah well...we'll see what happens.
Spectacular thread guys, very relevant to my interests. Apologies for not going through all the posts but it's been a long day as I have just purchased a 99 Golf GTTDI and I have a problem with the driver door (as well as a few others I have realised since buying), it won't lock at all, fob or key, the rest of the doors lock and unlock fine. I only recently purchased the car with the problem (I was made aware of it but wasn't aware it wouldn't lock even with the key).
For me to lock the drivers door I have to:
Close the driver door, reach in from the unlocked rear drivers door and push the little 'door lock notifier knob' down manually (won't work unless the door is closed i.e. I can't push it down then close the door). I then close the rear drivers door, then I can lock the rest of them using the fob/key.
This seems to be a lot more basic than other problems here so hopefully someone can tell me if its a switch or soldering job I need done, but one good thing. The guy gave me a module he had got from a scrappage yard, as he had bought it to replace but didn't find the time.
Welcome, congrats on the TDI and thanks for the detailed info.
Sure others might know better, and hopefully chime in, but it sounds like to me it is a mechanical problem, and not an electrical one, with the physical lock mechanism where the key turns around on the internal actuator. It sounds like you've gotten a spare lock actuator like the one photoed above?
Btw, how are you then able to unlock the door? Press unlock twice on the fob and then open the rear door, reach in and pull the drivers door handle? Is that it?
Sounds like the seller knew what was up, can you contact him to tell you what to do? What other problems are you having?
Btw, I think putting the scrappage lock mechanism, as long as it works, should probably fix it.
Hmm... As a last thought though, let me back up and ask, is it possible it is not getting power at all to the lock module? I seem to recall these parts are designed to lock/unlock from the inside, in case of an emergency such as a dead battery or driving into the drink....
Hmm... Lets run a few more diagnostics...
1. Just for giggles, have you checked ALL the fuses?
2. When armed and locked, do you get the red led flashing next to door knob?
3. When all is locked down, alarm armed, and you hit the Unlock on the fob, do you get any mechanical whirring/whining sound from the drivers door mechanism?
4. Can you open/close the driver and/or passenger door windows, with the drivers side window controls?
5. Does the fuel door control, work?
6. When you open the drivers door, does the door hazard light come on? (pic below)
IF it is an electrical issue, I'm trying to track down where it could be at. It could be as simple as a loose electrical plug on the door actuator mechanism (pic below), a fried actuator, messed up door wiring, or worse a CCM (Comfort/computer Control Module) issue.
"The only way I can check if this is the problem is by replacing it and checking if the new module works?"
If you are very lucky, you might be able access and unclip the electrical plug with a crafty flathead screw driver, and plug it into the new scrappage part and test with your fob by only having to remove the outer plastic drivers door panel. You just need to easily pop out the door knob plunger gasket seal pictured on the right and also the wire harness below it (photos are of passenger door btw).
Last edited by Oly_Golf; 03-13-2011 at 12:51 PM.
1. Not checked any fuses, will do that (previous owner went out and purchased a new module so at the min I'm assuming that's been checked, good shout though)
2. Yes, red flashing next to door knob - also when I push down on it, it goes down smooth, motorised-like if you know what I mean, instead of me just forcing it down .
3. No sound or whirring from drivers door when I try and unlock (side of my head is still wet as I type)
4. Yeah, can control all windows from the drivers side
5. Yep, fuel door works no problems
6. Door hazard light is not on (not on passenger side either unfortunately).
I discovered another fault, the wing mirror adjuster also doesn't work, I'll have to maybe replace it/check it out when I remove the door panel.
Hopefully this narrows it down a bit. I'm working all week and of for St. Paddy's and the day after (I'm from Ireland ) so will get the fuse box out in daylight and get a look at it, along with maybe taking the door panel off.
Last edited by rikmayall; 03-13-2011 at 06:19 PM.
Ok, the main door wiring harness seems to be working fine and getting power, good.
The door knob plunger "motor/mechanism" is a greased resistance gear, which has some resistance at first then plunges down fast and smooth with a thumb press, so don't count that as being electric, just yet.
The door hazard light bulbs die all the time from being slammed and jarred. Just open the door, get a small flathead screwdriver and gently pop them out and check the bulbs.
Or, the lock system might not know the door is open... If you leave the driver or passenger door open for longer than a few minutes, does the cabin interior lights go out? If yes, then the microswitch is dead.
The mirror adjuster knob dies all the time as it is in a prime place to get soaked and shorted on a rainy day with the window open. It's like VW designed water to go right into it. Considering we live in the same rainy climate, it wouldn't surprise me if it's fried.
Or, since the electrical connection is right next to the door handle, it too gets slammed alot and can become loose. Someone else on the forums was able to fix it by just reseating it. When you turn your headlights on, does it illuminate?
So, I'm still thinking that the mechanism is just dead though. Hopefully the new one will fix it all.
A couple of things about taking the door panel off/on:
-Make sure to get out the door panel philips screw hidden up by the speaker tweeter. I've forgotten to remove it so many time, until the last minute...
-It is much easier to get the panel back on with the window rolled down all the way.
Just an FYI... My switch started to mess up a few days ago...for one day. Actually...for one afternoon. Its rained since then, and it hasnt screwed up since. Its been perfectly fine.
I swear...this car is possessed. Things will go wrong out of the blue, then fix themselves just as quick. Like the low coolant issue I just had. I got in the other morning, low coolant light came on, I looked and it was really low. After warming up, the light went off, level came up a little so I went to work. After work, and since then, the level has been back to normal. I have NOT filled it...and the fluid is clean hahaha. I dont get it. Stupid cars.
03 jetta wagon: I've read pages and pages here but not all lol. My drivers door prob is a bit different. All locking works fine. My symptoms are when opening the drivers door the interior light no longer comes on and if I leave the headlight switch on the alarm no longer works, I think there may be one other issue but I can't remember now. It's been like this for a few years. As far as I know everything else works.
When the microswitch fails, it defaults to "closed" mode. Meaning, it thinks the door is NOT open.
Last edited by Oly_Golf; 03-18-2011 at 11:48 PM.
I read a lot of this thread with interest.
The locking system on the right hand side rear passenger door of my Golf Tdi Mk4 stopped working this week. Every other part of the system is fine except for this one actuator.
Unfortunately, something within the door mechanism is stopping me from opening the door from the inside. If I try, I can feel the cable stretch and I see the pin try to raise but after the handle is released then everything goes back to the locked position.
This now means that the door is effectively jammed in the closed position!
I have stripped the door down as far as I can from the inside but I can't get access to the actuator itself.I'm all out of ideas except to cut a hole in the inside skin to facilitate access.
Has anybody got an idea for how to get round this problem?