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    VWVortex


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    Thread: MKIV door locks explained - why you're having problems!!! :(

    1. 06-15-2009 02:53 PM #376
      Quote, originally posted by ricolaw78 »
      Thanks to everybody involved in this thread (especially Gary)! With this kind of evidence, you would think VW would recall this POS door lock module.
      * Would this issue cause my new battery to drain 100% dead?
      2000 JETTA GLS - here are my symptoms:
      - Headlight chime doesn't sound
      - Puddle lights don't work on driver's side when open
      - If I use the key, the alarm goes off after manually opening the door and starting the car. If I use the FOB, it works fine.
      - Alarm arms even when the trunk is open
      - FOB won't open trunk (interior switch will)
      All of these symptoms are intermittent. Sometimes the alarm arms/disarms properly, and sometimes the headlight chime works. The alternator checked out fine.

      Modified by ricolaw78 at 9:34 AM 6-15-2009

      There is clearly an issue with at least one of the DLMs on your car. It's hard to tell if it's causing all of your issues. It's worth trying to fix the DLM first through and seeing if any problems remain afterwards.

    2. 06-15-2009 03:14 PM #377
      Thanks, Gary. In your opinion, could this be causing my battery drain, though?

    3. 06-15-2009 03:49 PM #378
      Potentially, yes. Anything is possible with a VW electrical system.

    4. 06-15-2009 03:52 PM #379
      Thanks, Gary. I appreciate it. I wish there was some way I could repay you for helping everyone up here. Unfortunately, I don't have much knowledge to give back... I'll update once I get it figured out.

    5. 06-15-2009 03:54 PM #380
      You not having to give your hard-earned money to a dealership is thanks enough.

    6. 06-15-2009 03:55 PM #381
      LOL, yeah... my wife is actually pregnant with our first child, so any cent we can save right now is GREAT. Thanks again dude.

    7. 06-15-2009 04:19 PM #382
      Anytime. Congrats.

    8. 06-16-2009 09:55 AM #383
      I've been having issues with my door locks as well, could the pictures in the first post be updated by chance?

    9. 06-16-2009 11:43 AM #384
      What do you mean by updated? Do you see any pics at all or just red Xs? The pics work for me.

    10. Member
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      06-16-2009 12:27 PM #385
      in to watch this.
      Thanks to all that helped.

    11. Member tomespo's Avatar
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      06-16-2009 12:28 PM #386
      i fixed mine, and now its not working again!!!!

    12. 06-16-2009 01:46 PM #387
      Quote, originally posted by tomespo »
      i fixed mine, and now its not working again!!!!

      How long ago did you fix it? I had to fix the DLM on my front, right door for the second time a couple of weeks ago. The first fix lasted a few years. If the soldering job is not good enough, or the door is used a lot, then the fix may last considerably less time.

    13. 06-17-2009 07:11 PM #388
      Am I the only one missing the retaining bracket that connects the Door
      Lock Module (DLM) to the assembly carrier? I think I found the plastic
      rivets inside the door...but no bracket. I can only assume the dealer that
      changed out my window clips broke it and didn't replace it.

    14. 06-17-2009 07:23 PM #389
      That's probably what happened. I see brackets all the time without rivets (the dealer removes them and doesn't out them back). I've never seen a missing bracket though.

    15. 06-18-2009 09:19 AM #390
      I've finally sorted my problems, i thought i'll post my experience on here.
      So my problems were -
      - Door ajar light staying on with all doors closed
      - Lights left on buzzer didn't work
      - Overhead light and door trim corner light not coming on when drivers door is opened
      However said lights would come on if passenger door is opened and all remote central locking worked fine.
      So I stripped my drivers door lock module down and found the 4th switch was my problem. The metal latch that is covered in plastic/rubber had a split just where it activated the switch. I repaired this by using superglue and filing the correct shape so activate the switch.
      So, everything reassembled, I test the repair and DAMN, ajar light still stays on. However it sorted all the other problems. So I checked my hatch lock and the plug for the micro switch was loose. I got in the car turned the key and YAY no ajar light FINALLY.
      What threw me was my ajar light is a symbol of a car with the drivers door open. I don't have a hatch open light. I guess I spent too much time concentration on door modules.

    16. 06-18-2009 11:15 AM #391
      It's weird how quiet the new one is. I had grown so accustomed to that
      "lockdown" sound.
      After I first installed it, I could not get the alarm to arm. I was worried that
      maybe the latch hadn't fully engaged (since my module is no longer
      attached to the window carrier). All it took, however, was a turn of the key
      in the door lock. The alarm armed when I locked it and then it would
      disarm/arm with the key fob.
      I have a question about the three torx screws in the bottom of the door.
      Are those meant to just spin? They screw into a plastic insert, so I figured
      this was normal...but I can't put any torque on them. It's like they're
      stripped, but I'm pretty sure it's just the inserts spinning.

    17. 06-19-2009 01:24 PM #392
      I've read this thread from beginning to end and noticed this problem applies mostly to 2001 and earlier Jetta's, except for one early poster who had a similar problem with his 2004 Jetta.
      That's my issue; I have a 2004 Jetta with the following symptoms; When I am driving, especially after I hit a bump on the driver's side, the door ajar alarm starts chiming and the light on the dash for "door open" shines. If I open the driver's door while in motion, the chime and light goes out, even though the door is open. The problem is confined to the driver's door only. Opening and closing the door a few times makes the problem go away until the next bump.
      Oh, one more symptom; when I use the key fob to unlock the doors, only the first press of the fob works and only the driver's door unlocks. No matter how many times I push the unlock symbol, the three remaining doors will not unlock. Also, when I close the driver's door after shutting the car off and parking, many times the interior lights stay on thinking the driver's door is still open. A few open and closing of the door makes the interior lights finally shut off.
      Does this seem like a module problem, even though I have an 04 Jetta? I am willing to try the repair, but would hate to start and realize its something else.
      Thanks in advance for any answers!
      Bob Jordan

    18. 06-19-2009 02:23 PM #393
      It sounds like the driver's door module is responsible for at least some of the problems. It might not being causing everything though. If you fix the module and still have some of the problems, then the control module for the door lock modules might have issues.
      It would be worth having the car scanned with a VAG-COM to see if there are any codes for the door lock module(s) in the memory of the control module.

    19. 06-20-2009 08:44 PM #394
      So I went through all of the trouble-like most of you here-to take off the panel and re-solder the broken solder. I reinstalled everything and now the car recognizes when my drivers side door is open and I can arm/disarm the alarm by turning the key, but the drivers lock still does not function electronically. If I want my door locked, I still have to turn the key. Should I even try to mess with it anymore or do you think it is screwed?

    20. Member Greg-O's Avatar
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      03 VW Jetta 1.8t 50 trim
      06-21-2009 08:23 PM #395
      Would a DLM of an r32/gti mk4 fit a jetta mk4??

    21. 06-21-2009 09:57 PM #396
      I'm pretty sure they are different.

    22. 06-30-2009 12:04 AM #397
      I have a 2003 Jetta that has 3/4 of the doors acting strangely as well. Sometimes the fob will lock them, other times it won't. Sometimes 2 doors are fine, then the next day the *other* 2 doors are fine. It is really random. Slamming the door shut will somehow get one door to work.
      Do the MK4 2002+ models have the same solder connectivity issues?


      Modified by evan_aggie at 3:54 PM 6-30-2009

    23. 07-01-2009 03:39 PM #398
      In the final analysis, which switch is recommended for durability? Burgess or Radio Shack?

    24. Junior Member dpe415's Avatar
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      Location
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      2003 VW Jetta VR6
      07-06-2009 05:00 PM #399
      I haven't used the Burgess (yet), but I have noticed that with the Radio Shack switch, if there is a lot of moisture build up in the door - say from snow slush warm-up etc. that the dampness will create contact inside the switch and cause an incorrectly closed-circuit. So, I haven't had a failure per-say, but the switch definitely isn't as accurate as a truly sealed switch like the Burgess.
      Both my front doors are now acting strange, but with different symptoms, so it looks like I'll be tearing them both down in the near future (let me tell you how excited I am about that ) and at that time, I'm going to "upgrade" to the Burgess switch.
      Bottom line (IMHO), if you can get a Burgess, do it. It's worth the few extra bucks.

    25. 07-09-2009 05:47 PM #400
      Are 03 and 04 jettas affected by the door lock module having solder/contact point issues?
      My 03 is acting very odd...I was hoping someone could confirm so that I can begin removing the door panels.

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