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    Thread: MANUAL ADJ. CLUTCH CABLE DIY W/ PICS (orig. writeup by SpeedRacer20)

    1. Member tyrantanic's Avatar
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      08-31-2004 10:04 PM #1
      This writeup was originally by SpeedRacer20, I did the install and wanted to add pics to it, so the pics are from me. Questions I'm sure can go to either of us, since we've both did it. my comments are made with a ### of sorts so you know who's who

      Here goes:

      Things you will need
      1. Phillips screw driver (looks like this on the tip + )
      2. A jack, or a stick or 1x1 board, anything that will be able to prop the clutch arm in place to give you slack on the cable (you'll see what I mean)
      3. A flashlight ###<--(or two)
      4. A friend to step on the clutch pedal a few times while you see where the clutch cable is in the engine compartment (if you don't know what the cable looks like) ###or a brick if you have no friends
      Estimated time to complete: 1-2hrs.

      Note: This DIY looks extremely long and may look intimidating, but it's long because I tried to make sure I didn't leave anything out. I may have repeated myself once or twice, or said something obvious or redundant. Disregard it, and get this done! You will be proud of yourself, it really is worth the trouble.
      By the way, do yourself a favor and print this out in large text so you can refer to it while your doing the project.

      1. First of all, slide the drivers seat all the way back, and take out floormats. Flip the hood up and prop it.

      2. Get a friend to step on the clutch pedal a few times so you can see exactly where the clutch cable is, and the arm it connects to.

      3. This is where the jack, or board comes in. Once you find the clutch arm the clutch cable connects to, you will want to get underneath the front of the car and prop the jack/board/stick so the clutch arm stays lifted up. When you are propping (especially with a jack) take care not to put pressure on the transmission, just the clutch arm.

      4. Once the clutch arm is propped up, you can see connected to the arm, a rectangular piece of black rubber, and a similiar shaped piece of metal with a slit in it. The slit is where the clutch cable end slides on to. SInce you have enough slack from the arm being propped up, you can easily slide the metal piece out and pull the rubber piece out. You will need these again, don't lose them.

      ##You wont be able to lift it this much when it's on the clutch arm but heres a better view

      ##THis is how it will slide out to the side

      5. Once that is taken off, you will want to get underneath the drivers side dash, just under the steering wheel. There will be 3 separate things you need to take out underneath there before you can access the top of the clutch cable. You will also want to pull down the fuse box as well. It's all much easier than it sounds. The larger piece (don't know what the appropriate name is for it) that your knees hit when your driving will need to be taken out first. There are 5 screws holding this in place, located directly underneath it. Take the screws out and then slide the entire piece directly down towards the floor.

      ##The 3 middle screws

      ##Left side screw right about the front hood release

      ##right side screw right at the corner of the panel and center console

      ##All done...

      6. Now that it's out of the way, you will want to take out a flimsy piece of plastic located just underneath the fuse box. There are only a couple screws holding this in, it comes out very easy.

      7. Since that is out of the way, you'll be able to better see the fuse box. On the sides of the fuse box, you will see a grey tab on each side that you flip up. Once you have flipped these up, the fuse box is removed by lifting straight up on it (towards the ceiling) and then you can lay it on the floor or let it dangle.
      ##right side tab

      ##left side tab, kinda hidden

      ##careful with this...

      8. That wasn't so hard was it? This next step is the biggest hassle of the project, this is where little hands and a flashlight win the day. Your going to want to shine your flashlight up to the top of the clutch pedal. There you will see a plastic housing on the left side of the pedal, and it goes up and around the pedal. Shine the flashlight on the left side of the plastic housing. You will see 2 slots where the plastic housing connects to a metal housing. The plastic housing comes out, the metal stays. This plastic piece is removed by sliding the piece straight up.(towards the celing) You don't need to pry, prod or jab at it with your screwdriver, it comes right out. Once it is slid out of those two tabs, you'll want to move the plastic housing until you see a ziptie looking thing on the side of it, this roundish looking guide should be holding on to 2 wire clusters. You don't need to cut this, just push on it with your screwdriver to release the 2 wire clusters. After that, you will want to move the plastic housing to the left to remove it. It will most likely catch on the metal housings lip. It'll take a few minutes to negotiate it out of there, just don't break it, it will come out.

      ##no real pics of this, as I was indesposed... heres the pic of the piece you will be taking out... and where the tabs are..

      w##iring harness spoken of





      THERE! It finally came out. I'm sure at this point you've created some new curse words, and there should be a group of people standing around you and your car gaping in disbelief. Pain in the arse wasn't it?

      9. This is where your friend will come in handy again. Since you've disconnected the clutch cable from the clutch arm, you can get him/her to push the tip of the cable towards you (towards the cable) to slack the cable as much as possible in your favor. Don't let them wander off, it helps a bunch. Get your head underneath the clutch pedal and push it to the floor. Take your LEFT hand and feel where the cable meets the top of the pedal. Slide your hand underneath it, and with that slack pull the cable towards you and up, so that the slack is horizontal, and keep wiggling it up and towards you. It takes a few but you'll eventually get it. Again I say, use your left hand to do all the work, it's the easiest.
      ####When he says left hand he isn't joking....DO IT####

      10. Now you've disconnected the cable from the arm, and you can go back in to the engine compartment and pull the rubber grommet on the clutch cable out of the firewall (the metal that separates the engine bay and the inside of the car). Wiggle it back and forth while pulling to get it out. Once it's out throw that sucka as far as possible.
      ##mine didn't go very far...

      11. Now in goes the new cable. It's all down hill from here, since you know the steps in taking it out, it's exactly the same going in. It's easier to connect the cable to the clutch pedal THEN connect it to the clutch arm, trust me. Go to the engine compartment, and push the littel rubber grommet on the clutch cable back in the firewall, twist and push twist and push till it goes in. Make sure it actually snaps in there, it has a lip so it will actually snap in. Pull it a few times to make sure you got it in there properly.
      ##AGAIN USE YOUR LEFT ARM... I looked like I was trying to limbo under my brake pedal at one point... wasnt working...###

      12. Now go back in to the car underneath the dash and guide the cable back in. It goes in the exactly the same way it came out. You have to get slack again from your friend pushing on the other end of the cable. Pull the slack towards you, and with your left hand, pull the line so it loops down towards the groove in the top of the pedal. There are two slots on the pedal, which confused me at first. You want to put the cable in the upper one.(or the one closer to the engine bay if that helps you.) Picture this: Hold your left straight out with your palm to the sky. Now imagine a cable going through your hand making a fist, with your palm still facing the sky. Now turn your fist clockwise so the cable that was coming from the left to right, is now coming from the left, and being routed downwards. That's the best I can explain what you'll want to do with the cable underneath so it goes in to that groove smoothly.

      13. (before you start this step, make sure your new cables rubber grommet connected to the cable is tightly pushed in to the firewall so you have plenty of slack) Now that you've snapped the hammer looking end of the cable in to the clutch pedal, you'll want to go back to the engine compartment, and connect the other end to the clutch arm. Assuming you still have a jack or stick holding the clutch arm upwards (so you have more slack to work with) grab the rectangular metal and rubber piece you took out before. The rubber piece goes in first underneath the arm and snaps in to a hole on the clutch arm. Now guide the clutch cable end through the clutch arm and the rubber piece. Now grab the metal piece, and put it underneath the rubber, and with your other hand pull the slack of the cable downwards, so you can slide the cable end through the groove on the metal piece. Once that is done, wiggle it around so you know it's set properly, it should all line up.

      ##here's the grommet

      ##grommet with cable (old cable but at least you know what it should look like)

      Note: At this point you can now remove the jack, stick, bar or whatever you used to prop up the clutch arm.

      14. Now that you have it installed, push the clutch back and forth a few times to make sure it feels ok. You can adjust later, you just need to make sure the cable is installed fine. Now all you have to do is reassemble the mess you made underneath the steering wheel. It all goes back in the same way it came out. First put the plastic housing back in the way it came out. Once it's about in the right spot, snap it back in to the housing it disconnected from. There is a slot that you saw earlier with the flashlight, and another directly above the pedal, just make sure they push in and lock together, then lock in the side one that connects to the metal housing. Once this is done, push the pedal back and forth and make sure it's not rubbing on the side, or upper part of the housing. If it is rubbing, push around the plastic housing until you get it to stop rubbing, and make sure it's locked in to place on the side, and at the top. Now route the 2 cables you took out earlier, back through the plastic housing so they are not dangling by your feet.


      15. Not rubbing? Good! Now you can put the fuse box back. Remember it drops in to 2 metal slots, and then you snap the 2 grey tabs over the metal nubs it sits on. Put back the flimsy plastic piece back over the fuse box, 2 screws go in here. Then mount the large piece that your knees hit when you drive. (wish I knew the proper name for that thing) It slides in and snaps in place on the top, line it up, then put the 4-5 screws back in.

      16. Now that it's all back together, push the pedal back and forth to see if it's where you like it. It should need some adjusting but this is the easiest part. If it's too loose, or too tight (disengages too high or too low) go to where the cable connects to the clutch arm, losen the little gold nut you see there, and then spin the round rubber piece directly below it. Play with it until it is where you like it. I adjusted mine to where there's about 2 inches of play when you push on the clutch until it actually starts to engage.
      NOTE: Do NOT go too tight on the cable, or the clutch will not be able to disengage all the way, and you'll smoke your clutch out.


      Modified by tyrantanic at 9:50 AM 9-26-2007

      Even a stopped clock gives the right time twice a day.

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      08-31-2004 10:23 PM #2
      sweeet....post this up in the DIY

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      08-31-2004 10:24 PM #3
      Good write up! I can't get the slack out of the cable, though. Any suggestions?

    4. Member tyrantanic's Avatar
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      08-31-2004 10:34 PM #4
      First off, just want to make it clear again speedracer20 did the original writeup, I just added the pics after I did it. Dont want him to lose any credit.

      Secondly... about the slack in the cable... which part are you at? If you cant get the slack out of the cable theres something messed up i think. need a little better explanation to help ya more

      Also... MODS... is this good enough to go in the official DIY thread?


      Modified by tyrantanic at 10:36 PM 8-31-2004

      Even a stopped clock gives the right time twice a day.

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      08-31-2004 10:46 PM #5
      I hooked it up at the pedal...then at the clutch lever arm using the metal clip and rubber grommet....but I can push the pedal straight to the floor with no return. The cable I was sent has a silver sleeve and a threaded portion which slides into the sleeve, with 2 nuts to adjust the length. If I adjust it to the tightest setting, it's still too loose...

      There's really no slack. It just won't disengage the clutch where it's set now.


      Modified by surferfletch at 10:47 PM 8-31-2004


    6. 08-31-2004 11:03 PM #6
      Quote, originally posted by tyrantanic »
      Also... MODS... is this good enough to go in the official DIY thread?

      I'm sure I speak for the mods, and for all of us, when I say - YES. PUT IT IN THERE, especially with these pics!!

      Thanks for the pics...they'll prove helpful I'm sure.


    7. Member tyrantanic's Avatar
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      08-31-2004 11:20 PM #7
      Does it move the arm on the transmission at all? it might be that it slipped out at the top of the pedal? it's hard to see up in there, you just gotta feel where it's at really. Took me almost an hour to do that part alone I wasnt sure how to go about it.
      Even a stopped clock gives the right time twice a day.

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      08-31-2004 11:34 PM #8
      It was all connected. Do I havbe to salvage anything off the old SA cable? I went back and looked at the old cable and found a plastic piece which went through the firewall and a 1/2" doughnut that I could take off the old cable. Do I need these? The rubber doughnut does not fit onto the new cable, though...

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      08-31-2004 11:42 PM #9
      I think I found the problem with the help of your pictures. My cable is a little different than yours. When I pulled the old cable out, the grommet and sleeve which goes through the firewall came with it. The plastic tabs which hold it in place are broken. I may need a new one. Thanks for helping!

    10. Member tyrantanic's Avatar
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      09-01-2004 12:09 AM #10
      aaah good man, that'll do it. You could probably check a junkyard for one, or find a dealer that will sell you one, couldnt be more than $10 if that.

      The problem I am having with my clutch install isnt related to the clutch at all.... other than my pedal still being high even when adjusted all the way down (need new clutch)... turns out when I was messing with the fuse box something happened, and my stupid red airbag light won't go off now. any ideas as to what I did to make that happen?

      Even a stopped clock gives the right time twice a day.

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      09-01-2004 12:49 AM #11
      I'm back to trying to get the cable back in the pedal. AGHHHHHH!

      With all the jostling of my wires, I'll be in the same boat...


    12. 09-01-2004 01:11 AM #12
      you can cut tons of time off that install if you just pull your instrument cluster (5 minutes) and get to the clutch pedal assy like that. it saves you from taking the entire lower dash apart.
      by the way, i'll have a manual adjust cable with about 3k miles on it for sale next week.

      im installing a vr6 this weekend!!! should take 2 days.


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      09-01-2004 01:17 AM #13
      Still can't get it. I'm going to bed. I wish I knew what the top of the pedal looks like. I can feel that I've got the cable in the slot and I can see the bead on the front of the top of the pedal, but I can't make it disappear!

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      09-01-2004 01:56 AM #14
      is ti really thsi much more involved then the mk2 and 1 ive dont them on both and never had to do anything with any of the wiring or clusters to get to the pedal?? grated it takes a flashlight and a good feel for ythe pedals?? I wanted to do thsi when i saw it but I dont want to take out all my wiring to do it anyone else have any morethoughts on this thanks??

      Brodie


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      09-01-2004 07:31 PM #15
      Got it done. Worst DIY I've ever done. I haven't put the trim back yet either. I behaved badly.

    16. Member tyrantanic's Avatar
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      09-01-2004 09:46 PM #16
      It's a bit of work, don't start it too close to dark like I did I think I wrote a good 3 pages worth of new curse words as well. ***** *** ********* **********
      Even a stopped clock gives the right time twice a day.

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      09-06-2004 05:45 PM #17
      Quote, originally posted by Ghost Rider »
      you can cut tons of time off that install if you just pull your instrument cluster (5 minutes) and get to the clutch pedal assy like that. it saves you from taking the entire lower dash apart.
      by the way, i'll have a manual adjust cable with about 3k miles on it for sale next week.

      im installing a vr6 this weekend!!! should take 2 days.


      I second this motion, i started to take the bottom apart then i realized that i wont fit under there so i started taking shiiiiit apart up top, u take the cluster bezel off then the cluster then all u need is a med size flat head screwdriver and a decent light, u pry the cable end outta the pedal assm ( takes 30 secs) then u put the new one with clever hand and screwdriver massaging try it , much better than tearing the bottom of your car out

    18. 04-22-2005 09:35 PM #18
      taking that plastic seperator peice out was one of the most frustrating things i have ever done on my car. Putting it back in is just as fun.

      One thing i have is a can hear a click when i let the cable out, is this just because it's a new line?


    19. 04-22-2005 10:12 PM #19
      does it seem like the clutch grabbs better?

    20. Member DonL's Avatar
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      04-23-2005 08:05 AM #20
      I'll offer up one of the biggest tips for replacing the clutch cable:

      Pull the instrument cluster.

      You can quite easily see the top of the clutch pedal, the cable and how it installs. In fact, when I installed my manual adjust cable, I did all the pedal work from up top rather than crawl under the dash.

      It seems the government is currently saying, "While we're conducting this unspecified, unwarranted surveillance, we're totally thinking about how to not violate the 4th Amendment that we're currently violating. Because terrorism."

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      04-23-2005 08:17 AM #21
      Well OK at least two humans have done this!!
      SPeed racer and tyrantanic
      , Man you did the greated job on the photo layout. I'm in right now and have exposed everthing but have not pulled out the divider. At this point I felt that "it can't be this involved" so I stopped.

      I thought either do thru the cluster or thru the firewall.

      DONL is it true that you can do it all thru the cluster? If yes I'll try it that way. I see just too many obsticles in the way from under the dash.

      Donl please write back on this.

      Thanks Speedracer and Donl

      Bruce


      Modified by bdsxxx at 5:30 AM 4-23-2005


      Modified by bdsxxx at 5:31 AM 4-23-2005


      Modified by bdsxxx at 5:31 AM 4-23-2005


    22. Member Scracho's Avatar
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      04-23-2005 10:50 AM #22
      I did this install about a month ago and it was not as bad as I thought. Took me about 30mins with a buddy of mine to do it. It's probably one of the best upgrades for about $30.00. The pedal feels so much better! Accurate is the best way to describe the way it feels. The clutch engages at the exact same point as it did the last time you shifted. Any additional benefit to this install would be saving your clutch from a faulty Self-adjusting cable. I bought my car and thought the clutch was bad when I bought the car. Had the clutch replaced by my mechanic and he gave me my old clutch back and I noticed that there wasn't much wear on the old clutch, heck even my mechanic commented about how little the old clutch was worn. After about a month with my new clutch it started to act up. I couldn't engage or disengage the clutch once it got hot. Between shifts the pedal would stick to the floor then pop up after 1sec or so. Took the car back to the mechanic thinking my transmission was smoked this time, because I thought it couldn't be the new clutch I just installed. After countless hours of messing around with clutch cable swap, engagement fork (behind green cap on trans) swap, 3 tranny flushes and relubes; I decide to pull the trans off to check the clutch and to my surprise the new clutch was completely burnt from the stupid Self-adj. cable.
      .:uber_xklusiv_krew:.
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      04-23-2005 10:50 AM #23
      I think I can answer for DonL since I just did this yesterday on my 94 Golf.

      Removing the cluster is the way to go. You just unplug it and remove it from the dash.

      Using a flashlight you can see where the cable is and how it is attached.

      To remove the cable (remove the cable on the tranny end first):

      Stick your hand through the top opening of the steering wheel (gives you better reach and leverage) and reach until you feel the cable.

      Once you feel the cable (about 3 inches or so from the pedal end), pull up on the cable with your fingers (which will bend the cable upwards) and push forward (toward the steering wheel) and it should pop out easily if you have enough arch on the cable.

      Installing the new cable end is just as easy. You have to bend the cable again to get enough arch and it will slip right in.

      Good luck!


    24. 04-23-2005 11:34 AM #24
      What clutch cable are you using? a mk2 manual adjust cable or an aftermarket one?

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      04-23-2005 12:44 PM #25
      I took out my cluster, yes can see the cable end using my "bend-a-lite" (really cool high intensity on a wire.

      Anyway I bent a piece of cloths hanger put it under the cable and pulled and pulled. It looks like the end has a spring loaded bushing that snaps into the grove in the pedal. My next step is to cut the cable to have infinate slack?

      But thru the cluster so far, you sit on your ass and play a game to pull out the cable. I have the under dash apart save the plate between the wiring and the clutch pedal. That I think is very bad to remove as it protects the wires from pedal movement and would be a botch to get back in.

      TBC


    26. 04-23-2005 01:48 PM #26
      great write up. i had pretty good luck with the cluster out...

      hold pedal to floor, set the cable into the clip/slot.
      with a friend pulling from the firewall side, tap the cable end into the clip/slot with a long screwdriver and a hammer... (all this through the cluster hole.)

      good luck.


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      04-23-2005 04:29 PM #27
      Well I just finished the clutch cable. Removing the cluster is the way to go. It's way better to sit on the seat than work on your back under the dash.

      When you pull the cluster, the cable end is in plain sight. After removing the cable trans end to give the cable play, the cable can be removed from the clutch pedal end. Quite a tug with a heavy cloths hanger wire is required to pull it from the clutch pedal slot. It would of never come out from the bottom because the slot where the cable end sits is detented. On re-assembly it required a hammer punch to set it in the slot (it has a kind of springy bushing on the end that sits in the pedal.

      So it was a great write-up, but as I put together the under dash stuff I started to takeoff I realized the cluster is the easiest, by far way, to get to the cable end.

      "it's easier to pull a trailer, than back it up!"


    28. 04-25-2005 06:36 PM #28
      Quote, originally posted by Blue Jetta »
      What clutch cable are you using? a mk2 manual adjust cable or an aftermarket one?

    29. 04-25-2005 11:14 PM #29
      Quote, originally posted by Blue Jetta »
      What clutch cable are you using? a mk2 manual adjust cable or an aftermarket one?

      the mk2 cable will not work. (pedal end connector is different) there are cables available for the mk3. One is a auto-adjuster, one is a manual adjuster(similar to the mk2 one)


      Modified by independent77 at 1:41 AM 4-26-2005

    30. 04-26-2005 12:07 AM #30
      ah ok, thanks for the info.

      guess I'll go to the dealer and look it up.


    31. 04-26-2005 04:37 AM #31
      you can get it from german auto parts
      http://www.germanautoparts.com...39/11

    32. 08-10-2007 08:19 AM #32
      Bringing this up from the dead would anyone have the pictures associated with the DIY. Went to my mechanics this morning and he wont be able to take the car until Thursday so I guess I am going to have to try my hand at this.

      Also does anyone know if this part is available at the dealer, since I would need it for tomorrow? If so how much would a dealer charge for this part?

      Thanks -
      Adam


    33. Member tyrantanic's Avatar
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      09-26-2007 09:51 AM #33
      Back from the mother f-in dead.... with updated picture links for ya.
      Even a stopped clock gives the right time twice a day.

    34. Member MrMook's Avatar
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      10-28-2007 06:51 PM #34
      Whoo!
      Just finished. I thought I had everything set...the new cable popped into the pedal almost immediately.....so I put it all back together and when I went to start it up, WHACK! my clutch pedal hit the floor.

      A dozen new curse words later, I had the kneeboard, fusebox, and the annoying plastic panel back off, and I paid closer attention to what I was doing under there.

      These pictures from this thread helped me out:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2369859

      Now it's shifting so smoothly. Tomorrow (when it's light out, and I have more patience) I'm going to fiddle with the release adjustment and get it just right.

      The cluster removal idea seems like it would have helped. Maybe next time I'll go through there so I can see what I'm doing.


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      Vehicles
      1997 golf GL
      12-30-2007 01:33 AM #35
      i just did this job. my arms are effin' sore.

      a couple of comments and a question follow.

      your page was really helpful. however, the job is a real pita.

      in your pictures of the black plastic bastard (you know what i'm talking about) there's a harness that sits on top, right above where the cable comes through the firewall. my '97 a3 golf gl (mexican, around #2400 in the production line) has a couple wire bundles running through that harness. the plastic guard piece would not move until i figured out how to perform some double-jointed hand-cramping freak maneuver and free those wires in that tiny space.

      once the wires were out of that secret harness and i pulled it to the left, the cable came right out of the pedal. the cable won't come out without removing that plastic guard, because there's not enough vertical clearance while it's there.

      and the barrel stop on the end of the cable has to come out of the pedal at a 90-degree angle from its natural resting position, hence your call for plenty of slack on the cable in the foot well.

      also, you can use your right hand by going to the right around the steering column to avoid shoving your meat hooks through the wiring spaghetti. if you remove one more easy little dust guard, the top of pedal is right there.

      now for the question.

      i did this surgery because my old self-adjusting cable was stretched. for reasons i won't go into, i put a new self-adjuster in. flame on if you feel the need. when i put a jack under the release arm, should i have jacked it higher than the stretched cable was pulling it? in other words, should i have moved the release arm high enough to disengage the clutch?

      thanks for your help. and for letting me air some grievances.


      Modified by filthy2.0 at 10:36 PM 12-29-2007


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