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    Thread: Here is my complete Crank Fix..

    1. Member swingwing205's Avatar
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      12-01-2008 05:58 PM #26
      Quote, originally posted by sprocket007 »
      When I do the timing belt I change all the engine seals on that side and the crank bolt...you might as well ur there anyway and It really does not take that long.
      Wade

      ...And seems like VERY cheap insurance. Way to go VW....

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      04-05-2009 12:23 PM #27
      Am I right in assuming you used bearing rollers as dowel pins, and also used an aftermarket (solid steel, not sintered) crank gear? Just how hard is the crank nose?

    3. 04-05-2009 02:14 PM #28
      i replaced the original crank bolt for the crank pulley from the original "stretchy" to the non stretch and washer...
      how will this compare?

      edit:
      btw, great discussion...nice write up [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]


      Modified by Z-Raddo G60 at 1:17 PM 4-5-2009

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      04-05-2009 02:39 PM #29
      Personally, I would not. There was a reason to go to the torque-to-yield bolt. They tried that as the first stage fix, but it didn't do it. Those bolts are not cheap, and they are the sub for all previous equipment. Number one, I believe they are higher strength , to begin with.

    5. 04-05-2009 03:51 PM #30
      Quote, originally posted by lloydbiker »
      Personally, I would not. There was a reason to go to the torque-to-yield bolt. They tried that as the first stage fix, but it didn't do it. Those bolts are not cheap, and they are the sub for all previous equipment. Number one, I believe they are higher strength , to begin with.

      dang...i don't like that sound...
      next up for a little something...or more importantly...more specifics on it? sorry to jack this end up...

    6. Member
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      04-06-2009 12:26 PM #31
      I'm currently looking at doing this to my '97 TD (AAZ engine-seldom seen in US) with 3 pins, cutting the torque to 66ft/lb+1/4 turn (a little less stress on the bolt). I figure, if it can handle a supercharger in addition to the regular accessories, it should be good with the clunky idle and IP of the diesel. I know there's a mod using the TDI cog, but that involves machining the crank snout, (beyond my capabilities, and I'm not even sure within the local machine shop's). This I can easily do with my drill press and power drill, in the car. I'm also planning to install a 'freewheel' alternator pulley. Any thoughts or comments?

      Modified by lloydbiker at 9:38 AM 4-6-2009


      Modified by lloydbiker at 9:42 AM 4-6-2009

    7. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      04-06-2009 02:57 PM #32
      Quote, originally posted by lloydbiker »
      Am I right in assuming you used bearing rollers as dowel pins, and also used an aftermarket (solid steel, not sintered) crank gear? Just how hard is the crank nose?

      Correct, as dowels. The crank is not that hard and drills right out with a good cobalt drill bit.

      As far as the clutch type alt pulley, I personally think it is a good idea and in fact I am using one on my new 2020 motor using the whole late 1.8t alt.
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    8. 04-06-2009 11:04 PM #33
      Can any alt be fitted with a clutch type pulley?

    9. Member
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      04-06-2009 11:26 PM #34
      In all likelihood the cog is harder than the crank, right?

    10. Member REPOMAN's Avatar
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      04-07-2009 12:06 AM #35
      Great repair thread.
      When you have alot of torque only overkill will do.


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      04-07-2009 01:53 AM #36
      Is that keyway damage on rt side of slot? What did you use as pins? 'Sporty' trans rollers, same as Shawn? Them's wicked HP #'s what intake pressure are you running? I'm just working with a bone stock 1.9L turbo diesel pony. I can see that these engines could be worse than the 1.9L TD on that timing system, with the load of the 'charger hung on.

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      04-13-2009 11:10 AM #37
      Just a query on torquing after pinning the gear.Do you still use the original torquing specs, or reduce to ABA spec, and thus reduce stress on the bolt? Has anyone even considered this? There would be less danger of stretching/necking the bolt, and less danger of breaking it. I don't see why you couldn't. After all, you've probably tripled the the shear strength (if triple pinned). Thoughts, anyone?

    13. Member REPOMAN's Avatar
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      04-13-2009 11:25 AM #38
      I use the OEM Torque specs on the crank bolt w/ loc tite.
      if you are going to dowl the crank and gear be sure the dowl holes
      are straight and the dowls are sunk deep enough so when the
      gear is bolted on it goes flush. if the hole is shallow then the dowl will
      keep the gear from bolting up flush and cause more damage.
      500HP 1990 Cowrado
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      04-22-2009 09:42 PM #39
      Did you use something different for pins? Yours give the impression of being larger dia than Shawn's. I'm thinking of using 5/32"dia tool steel, larger dia than Shawn's, 7/8" long (X2), not as hard as a bearing roller, but harder than a HSS drill or a std 'Woodruff' key, and on-hand. Any thoughts? Don't forget, I'm working with a bone stock 1.9L indirect-injection diesel, with its clunky idle and A/C, and I'll be fitting a 'clutched' alternator pulley at the same time.

      Modified by lloydbiker at 6:43 PM 4-22-2009


      Modified by lloydbiker at 6:45 PM 4-22-2009

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      04-23-2009 11:48 PM #40
      Made my pins today. 5/32"x13/16" long, from a chuck key that fit nothing I own. I'm in the middle of a move (exchange of house, across street), so the mods will have to wait until I can get at my good drill press (don't trust my 'Hobby' unit to drill that true). I was cleaning, packing in my shop, and had the material in hand (they're now in a baggie, in the glove compartment and the scrap is in garbage). Not driving car 'til mods complete, but fuel cost is killing me on my volunteer work (50mi/day x5/wk) w/ the Dodge. Anyway, I figure if I drill both sides to 7/16"(easy with depth pin on my vernier), I should have no problems with fitting. When I get it installed, I plan to throw the pulley (or one off my 1.6 NA) on, and check to see that it's running true, before I re-install the timing belt covers. Who knows, I might even slap it on with the old bolt just for a test run, at idle, (should be OK, with no loading).


      Modified by lloydbiker at 8:54 PM 4-23-2009

    16. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      05-13-2009 04:12 PM #41
      Figured I would add an update to this and a PSA. Against better judgement when I did the fix, I used the only crank seal I had laying around which was a new Erling brand seal. Complete garbage and started leaking like a sieve after a year or two. Replaced with a proper Reinze whose OD is much tighter to specs.
      Also, made this tool because I was too lazy to pull off the pan
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    17. Member
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      05-13-2009 05:44 PM #42
      Don't you just hate it when that happens? My local parts supplier has two tools, looking like huge (36" long) cheap wrenches, that he loans out to purchasers of gears or bolts, so they can properly torque the bolts.

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      05-13-2009 07:06 PM #43
      I just had this happen to my mk1 swapped g60. What are the chances my valves got bent and my head cracked from the timing possibly jumping with the crank bolt snapping.

    19. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      05-13-2009 08:11 PM #44
      Stock cam, probably ok. Aftermarket cam, no telling.
      S
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      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    20. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      08-07-2010 07:41 PM #45
      If you crank wobbles it likely got screwed up when it detached. Possible the hub in teh rubber ring got off center etc.

      I have done about 5 cars over the years and have not had a single one fail. Including my car on which this thread was based on. The key is getting the crank bolt torqued properly!
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    21. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      08-08-2010 09:36 AM #46
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    22. Junior Member
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      09-01-2010 02:43 PM #47
      Oh no... Looks like I get to go drill holes in my crank.... Great. Im expecting the crankshaft to be F'ed. I was tring to get my 88 GTi running, the timings off. SO I retimed the belt lining everything up correctly (flywheel and cam gear) then it fired up and reved up for a second then wouldent start again. I checked the timing belt alignment and its off again... So I tried like 5 more times to do the procedure but upon lining up the crank (at the flywheel) the cam gear marks are 5 - 10 teeth off. I must have a spun crank gear. Now seeing that everyone else has too, IM almost certian. Well Im off to do the deed. Thanks for the help folks! I owe you all a

    23. 09-24-2010 02:14 PM #48
      I just thought I would mention this thread because I definitely think these problems are related:

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...nk-pulley-fail.

    24. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      09-24-2010 02:55 PM #49
      I haven't read through your whole thread, but I fully believe in the directional Alt pulley. In fact, on my new 20v hybrid motor, I made sure to make use of it.

      Just keep in mind that the Frequent issues with the G60 motors over 100k can also be attributed to the G60 charger and added stress cycles on the Crank bolt.
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    25. Member ThatsNotStock's Avatar
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      11-01-2010 03:56 PM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by sdezego View Post
      Also, made this tool because I was too lazy to pull off the pan
      This thread is excellent. Im getting ready to do the same to my 90 g60. I was ready to buy a new(used) block to fix mine when a vw buddy sent me the link. can you tell me what the bracket is doing that you welded up?
      "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former"
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