Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
    Results 51 to 75 of 127

    Thread: Here is my complete Crank Fix..

    1. Member sdezego's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 23rd, 2004
      Location
      Hurricane Central FL
      Posts
      11,423
      Vehicles
      '90 Corrado | '62 Harley Panhead
      11-02-2010 12:56 PM #51
      It is just holding the Cog, so I could torque the crank bolt properly.
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    2. Junior Member
      Join Date
      Aug 31st, 2010
      Posts
      47
      Vehicles
      1988 GTi
      12-05-2010 06:27 PM #52
      Did the deed today. Yup she spun on the crank and ate it up. New gear, double pinned on with two 3/16 dowels. Retime it tomorrow and pray. Oh we made a cutter that remachined the end of the crank back flat and true. Nice.

    3. 12-28-2010 08:22 AM #53
      Please make a post on how you made the cutter, and include a pic or two.

    4. Member
      Join Date
      Sep 26th, 2008
      Location
      Kelowna BC
      Posts
      189
      Vehicles
      '97 Jetta AAZ, '04 Dodge/Cummins 2500, '83 Honda 650 Silver Wing, '85 Honda 1200 Gold Wing
      01-06-2011 10:07 AM #54
      Has anyone ever had to replace a gear after it's been pinned?

    5. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 14th, 2004
      Location
      Regina, SK
      Posts
      5,760
      Vehicles
      1982 BMW 320i, 1986 Jetta Carat 1.8/ABA Turbo
      07-10-2011 02:21 AM #55
      I'd like to thank Shawn for this! A stand up citizen of the 'tex.

      It was right there when I needed it!


      I bought a bearing and tore it apart to use the pins. But then decide to use the back end of a 5/32 HSS drill bit cut down as the pin, because the bearing I acquired had smaller then expected rollers. (Both width and depth wise) But in the end I got a quite a good size pin in there, so I decide to go with just one, since my crank wasn't totally trashed.

      I was expecting a wicked fight with drilling into the gear and the crank (forged?) but with a new titanium HSS drill bit set I bought, I had no problems at all. In fact it was way too easy, like a knife through hot butter. That's what made me realize pin diameter and getting really good penetration into the crank and gear was going to be crucial for a lasting fix. At fist I was concerned the back of a drill bit might not be strong enough, but if anything the gear will crack into pieces before the bit ever sheers.

      But if it did happen again, my hand would be forced to buy a ABA bottom end. And then I'll be forced to put a 16v head on it, and hang a big T3 off the rear. Will SNS still do a 16v Turbo chip?
      Last edited by G60 Carat; 07-10-2011 at 02:24 AM.
      "Criminally insane, with a few brief lucid intervals."
      | Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |

    6. Member sdezego's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 23rd, 2004
      Location
      Hurricane Central FL
      Posts
      11,423
      Vehicles
      '90 Corrado | '62 Harley Panhead
      07-10-2011 01:23 PM #56
      haha, thanks! Glad you got it all worked out.

      Using the drill bit was something that I had considered and thought to be a good option, but everything that I have ever built has some piece or part from a Harley and I could not let my G60 be any different - LOL.

      It was surprising to me as well how easy the crank was to drill into, until I started thinking about it and my M.E. geekiness started shining though. Forged does not necessarily mean "hardened", so the differences between cast and forged really has to do with the metal grain and density structure. Hardened is usually associated with brittleness to some extent, which is good for some things. but not good for others (i.e a crank).

      ...anyway, not trying to get too far off path, but yea, the crank is easy to drill.

      I prefer Cobalt bits, but Ti-HSS is fine. If you have to drill a broken off crank bolt or forbid an easy out, then Cobalt is the only option.
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    7. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 14th, 2004
      Location
      Regina, SK
      Posts
      5,760
      Vehicles
      1982 BMW 320i, 1986 Jetta Carat 1.8/ABA Turbo
      06-08-2012 06:43 AM #57
      Quote Originally Posted by lloydbiker View Post
      Has anyone ever had to replace a gear after it's been pinned?
      Yes

      "Criminally insane, with a few brief lucid intervals."
      | Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |

    8. Member sdezego's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 23rd, 2004
      Location
      Hurricane Central FL
      Posts
      11,423
      Vehicles
      '90 Corrado | '62 Harley Panhead
      06-08-2012 08:17 PM #58
      Quote Originally Posted by G60 Carat View Post
      Hey Shawn, I made a crank gear holder, but having a hard time getting the bolt to go 1/2 turn. I got 66ft/lbs and 1/4 turn before I broke the end a craftsman 1/2 inch extension using a 5 foot snipe bar.

      Were all you guys able to get a full 1/2 turn after 66 ft/lbs?

      Thanks,
      Joe
      Yes, without a doubt. It was a b!tch though. I used a 1/2" BA breaker bar with a 12pt impact socket (after I broke all my regular ones). I had to do it in a few attempts, which is fine.

      If you are between 1/4 adn 1/2 you should be fine. The key is having clean crank threads and lubricating the threads and all mating surfaces with either loctite (makes it harder to get apart, but who cares) or a Moly grease.
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    9. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 14th, 2004
      Location
      Regina, SK
      Posts
      5,760
      Vehicles
      1982 BMW 320i, 1986 Jetta Carat 1.8/ABA Turbo
      06-09-2012 03:07 PM #59
      SHould I back itout and do it all again, or just keep tightening from the 1/4 turn?


      I was just going to keep tightening it.
      "Criminally insane, with a few brief lucid intervals."
      | Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |

    10. Member sdezego's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 23rd, 2004
      Location
      Hurricane Central FL
      Posts
      11,423
      Vehicles
      '90 Corrado | '62 Harley Panhead
      06-09-2012 08:30 PM #60
      Quote Originally Posted by G60 Carat View Post
      SHould I back itout and do it all again, or just keep tightening from the 1/4 turn?


      I was just going to keep tightening it.
      Yea, that is fine (as long as you didn't use loctite). Bentley even states, you can do it in multiple attempts
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    11. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 14th, 2004
      Location
      Regina, SK
      Posts
      5,760
      Vehicles
      1982 BMW 320i, 1986 Jetta Carat 1.8/ABA Turbo
      06-09-2012 10:33 PM #61
      No loctite, just a light oil on the threads. (I don't believe you don't need loctite when it's that crazy tight)

      So you're saying it's ok to just keep on tightening it?
      "Criminally insane, with a few brief lucid intervals."
      | Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |

    12. Member sdezego's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 23rd, 2004
      Location
      Hurricane Central FL
      Posts
      11,423
      Vehicles
      '90 Corrado | '62 Harley Panhead
      06-09-2012 10:36 PM #62
      Quote Originally Posted by G60 Carat View Post
      No loctite, just a light oil on the threads. (I don't believe you don't need loctite when it's that crazy tight)

      So you're saying it's ok to just keep on tightening it?
      Yes
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    13. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 14th, 2004
      Location
      Regina, SK
      Posts
      5,760
      Vehicles
      1982 BMW 320i, 1986 Jetta Carat 1.8/ABA Turbo
      06-09-2012 11:51 PM #63
      Thanks for all the help, If I'm ever in Florida I'll buy you a Sam Adams
      "Criminally insane, with a few brief lucid intervals."
      | Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |

    14. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 14th, 2004
      Location
      Regina, SK
      Posts
      5,760
      Vehicles
      1982 BMW 320i, 1986 Jetta Carat 1.8/ABA Turbo
      06-10-2012 01:12 AM #64
      Well......ungodly tight was not working for me. I got the bolt to turn maybe a fraction more, before it made a pop sound"





      New bolt and new gear again this week, and if I get it to 1/4 turn I'll just stop. I'll just use copious red loctite and pray for the best.
      "Criminally insane, with a few brief lucid intervals."
      | Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |

    15. Member sdezego's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 23rd, 2004
      Location
      Hurricane Central FL
      Posts
      11,423
      Vehicles
      '90 Corrado | '62 Harley Panhead
      06-11-2012 11:43 AM #65


      Did you have all 4 bolts in that cog or just 2? Either way, that is one disavantage to use that type of tool vs using a Flywheel lock. Either way

      I personally am not opposed to going 66 + 1/4 with using loctitie on everything. Threads, cog face, etc.
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    16. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 14th, 2004
      Location
      Regina, SK
      Posts
      5,760
      Vehicles
      1982 BMW 320i, 1986 Jetta Carat 1.8/ABA Turbo
      06-15-2012 07:37 AM #66
      Quote Originally Posted by sdezego View Post


      Did you have all 4 bolts in that cog or just 2? Either way, that is one disavantage to use that type of tool vs using a Flywheel lock. Either way

      I personally am not opposed to going 66 + 1/4 with using loctitie on everything. Threads, cog face, etc.

      Ok another bolt and gear, got the pins lined up by bolting the 2 gears together.

      Anyways, I cleaned the threads in the crank and smeared the bolt in red loctite, got it 66ft/lbs and like 3/8 turn. Then the flexing on the snipe bar got me panicky about breaking something again, so I stopped there.

      One thing is for sure I've never had the crank bolt this tight before, so hopefully it stays put.... and I do mean it this time.
      "Criminally insane, with a few brief lucid intervals."
      | Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |

    17. Member rabbitnothopper's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 19th, 2009
      Location
      D-Town REPRESENT : Texas
      Posts
      8,796
      Vehicles
      81 VW Rabbit 1.7L EN 4-speed 020 GP, 78 VW Rabbit 1.5L EH 4speed 020 GC->GP
      09-11-2012 03:12 AM #67
      Quote Originally Posted by G60 Carat View Post
      Well......ungodly tight was not working for me. I got the bolt to turn maybe a fraction more, before it made a pop sound"





      New bolt and new gear again this week, and if I get it to 1/4 turn I'll just stop. I'll just use copious red loctite and pray for the best.
      leave it to superman to crack steel with just a torque wrench

      thanks for pic

    18. Member G60ING's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 27th, 2000
      Location
      Niceville, FL
      Posts
      13,054
      Vehicles
      TDI Corrado, Honda Refrig (Pilot) & 9N MKoh
      09-21-2012 08:59 PM #68
      This thread was inspiration for me to create a similar one on TDICLUB:

      http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=318602

      I used an 11/64" drill through both the pulley and crank followed by a 3/16" reamer.




      I used the old bolt to hold the cog square & snug on the crank:



      The first crank cog I did went beautifully, the 2nd one had a snag:
      A word of warning, make certain you have the holes deep enough. I'd suggest that you do this with the cog off the crank. Put the pins in the crank, and then measure how far out they stand. If you install the pins with the drill bolt in place you will have a challenge to get the drill bolt out...I learned the hard way buy I overcame the lesson.

      I would recommend drilling the sprocket out on a drill press or mill. Once the sprocket holes are made you can use a regular hand drill to drill the holes in the crank.

      Yes the timing belt does need to come out to do this.

      The dowel pins that I used were 3/16" x 1.5"

      Here is what I bought if you want to spend the extra money for a box of 50 for $14 Plus shipping if you can't pick them up: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Dow...B66?Pid=search

      Here is the reamer:
      http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...-131588&ucst=t

      Here is the final pass 11/64 drill bit (before the reamer):
      http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...u=53012&ucst=t


      The VW crank holder can also be used to hold the cam gear when doing the TDI timing belt. Its $65 from Worldimpex: http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/oem-...rt_238827.html

      You will also need a new bolt, I used the old bolt to hold the sprocket in place while I drilled the crank. I had to grind the sides of the old bolt (shown in the pictures)

      I bought the pins, reamer and drill bit because its about once a year that I have my hands on a strange motor that should be pinned during a rebuild or whatnot.

      Here is a picture of the dealership tool for torque procedure on the crank sprocket:


    19. Member sdezego's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 23rd, 2004
      Location
      Hurricane Central FL
      Posts
      11,423
      Vehicles
      '90 Corrado | '62 Harley Panhead
      09-21-2012 09:44 PM #69
      Looking good.

      You are worried about that new long block aren't you?
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    20. Member G60ING's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 27th, 2000
      Location
      Niceville, FL
      Posts
      13,054
      Vehicles
      TDI Corrado, Honda Refrig (Pilot) & 9N MKoh
      09-21-2012 09:54 PM #70
      Motors are a terrible thing to waste. I pinned my crank on my old motor last year. I said then that I end up pinning a crank just about once a year (for myself or friends) and so far I haven't lied. I hope my tools built up some dust over the next couple years. Next I'm going for 2 micron fuel filtering.

    21. Member sdezego's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 23rd, 2004
      Location
      Hurricane Central FL
      Posts
      11,423
      Vehicles
      '90 Corrado | '62 Harley Panhead
      09-21-2012 10:47 PM #71
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    22. Member TheRealEddie's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 8th, 2006
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      522
      Vehicles
      mk2 GTI Group 2 Rally car, 1990 Corrado G60, 2012 EOS 2.0T
      11-04-2012 09:36 AM #72
      After getting advice from another vortexer about pinning my crank while I rebuild my G60 I found this great thread.

      So, what's going on here? Is the keyway in the crank sprocket failing?

      I don't believe I have any signs that this failure was imminent for me. However, is the general practice to replace the +20 year old sprocket and bolt or can the sprocket/bolt be inspected to determine if reuse is in order? Again, nothing has failed for me....yet....

      thanks!
      -eddie

    23. Member weejunGL's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 2nd, 2005
      Location
      Norwegen
      Posts
      1,599
      Vehicles
      MKII 16vT Syncro
      11-04-2012 01:18 PM #73
      its not the cog which is the main problem, but the crank nose ... the crank is made of soft metal

    24. Member TheRealEddie's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 8th, 2006
      Location
      Long Beach, CA
      Posts
      522
      Vehicles
      mk2 GTI Group 2 Rally car, 1990 Corrado G60, 2012 EOS 2.0T
      11-04-2012 06:20 PM #74
      ah ok, so if everything seems ok just reuse the sprocket and bolt and then pin it.

      -e

    25. Member G60ING's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 27th, 2000
      Location
      Niceville, FL
      Posts
      13,054
      Vehicles
      TDI Corrado, Honda Refrig (Pilot) & 9N MKoh
      11-04-2012 11:07 PM #75
      Don't reuse the bolt, its a one-time use stretch bolt. I think both the crank and sprocket are soft.

    Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •