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    VWVortex


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    Thread: 16v Digfant II FAQ

    1. 10-28-2005 09:53 PM #401
      Quote, originally posted by OhioBenz »
      the AUG is an 020 box. I swapped an 02A in my GLI just because I feel the new motor I'm building was going to torch the stock box. I've already gone through two 2Y boxes.
      Just wondering if the parasitic loss for the 02A setup is higher because the stock flywheel is 10lbs heavier than the 020 one?

      And if it is, can you just lighten the flywheel and get back some of the loss.

    2. 10-28-2005 10:04 PM #402
      That's already done
      http://www.hotdub.com/pictures...um=35


      Modified by OhioBenz at 10:43 PM 10-28-2005

    3. 11-01-2005 02:26 PM #403
      Whats up guys, I am having an issue persay. I cant figure out why my car won't run will all the stock components plugged in.
      I checked my ISV and it works, when its plugged in my car will start then stall. If i hit it with some throttle to keep it alive then it starts really quickly bouncing from 1 to 3 grand.
      So heres the big question, does anyone know what other electronic components directly effect idle??? I am thinking that possibly the closed throttle sensor wire might be broken, would this cause such a wonky thing to happen? need some thoughts here

    4. 11-01-2005 02:59 PM #404
      since its throttle related, try swapping in a carbon free TB, and see if that helps. something sounds like its sticking. or ur suggestion too. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] keep us digi2 fokes posted!
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    5. 11-01-2005 03:38 PM #405
      its not throttle related. Its electronics related.

    6. 11-01-2005 05:09 PM #406
      this may or may not relate....
      on my Motronic 16v i had a similar issue and here is what i found:
      The system has a built-in fuel cut-out program that activates when engine rpm is in excess of (i believe) 2000 rpm and the IPS throttle switch is closed. This shuts off fuel if you are coasting down a mountain or something with your foot off the gas & still doin 70mph....
      I would be surprised if the Digi did not have a similar safety/emissions feature in it.
      Now it determines the rpm from the Tach signal and of course the IPS determines if throttle is open or closed. So either a bad Tach signal or bad IPS could cause the same issue.
      What I did to allow me to drive the car sounds weird - but it worked till i found a new IPS... I unplugged the CTS coolant temp sensor which in effect puts the ECU in a cold run mode where it looks for a limited data until it sees the coolant temp signal.
      As soon as i replaced the IPS the problem was gone. Meanwhile I had looked at pretty much everything else without fixing it.
      With Digi-2 the only other thing i can think of is the VAM either sticking or the wiper/potentiometer circuitry being bad - which you can test with a multi-meter.

    7. 11-01-2005 05:53 PM #407
      Yea see wheni unplug my ISV and manually adjust my idle with the screw, i can get it to run without issues once its warm. ofcourse cold it wont run at all.
      So does anyone know what the computer does when the ISV is unplugged? does it ignore certain other sensors that work with the isv to make an idle? such as that closed throttle sensor??if thats the case i could trouble shoot the items the work solely with the ISV to make an idle, and insure the wiring is correct and the sensor is functional.Anyone know?

    8. Member MBRACKLIFFE's Avatar
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      11-01-2005 06:04 PM #408
      Just an update since it has been sometime now that I originally wrote the FAQ.
      I was doing some tuning today to try and sort out a rough idle. Basically the idle sucked when it was between 900 and 1000 RPM the only solution seems to be to go higher or lower. The stock setting is at 850 but I found that alot of the time it would drift up into the rough idle range.
      Anyways I checked my timing again for like the thousandth time and it was fine but I decided to try advancing it a little. I am not sure exactly how far I advanced it but I would say around 10 or 12 degrees. I then readjusted the to about 800. First off the idle is now great, nice and smooth. Second the power hits much harder and at lower RPM do to the Timing being advanced, I am getting a slight pinging on acceleration so I may notch it back a few degrees but I am not going back down to 7 BTDC.
      The driveability is much improved as is throttle response and power.
      I tried another little mod that I will go into when I get some pictures but basically it scared me. I wasn't expecting the extra power and I lit up chirped the tires without trying.
      What I did was to cut a piece of thick vacuum hose to about 3/8" long and sliced it lengthwise to open it up. I then placed it into the slot in the throttle body linkage that opens up the second butterfly. Normally the small butterfly opens first and then the second. By placing the rubber hose in the slot I forced the bigger butterfly to open much sooner. I tried differnet lengths for experimentation purposes until I found one I liked. The Torque down low is massively improved. You have to use rubber or a spring or something though to prevent problems at wide open throttle but I am still looking into this more.
      Pics to come soon.

    9. 11-01-2005 06:33 PM #409
      sounds interesting. I have always run my timing 7deg advanced. its the best by far if you have a good timing gun [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Do you knwo what might be causing my problems?

    10. 11-01-2005 07:14 PM #410
      Quote, originally posted by veedubinit »
      So does anyone know what the computer does when the ISV is unplugged? does it ignore certain other sensors that work with the isv to make an idle? such as that closed throttle sensor??if thats the case i could trouble shoot the items the work solely with the ISV to make an idle, and insure the wiring is correct and the sensor is functional.Anyone know?

      AS far as I know the ISV is only an output - and has no feedback capabilities. So when you unplug it, it closes. Not running when cold would seem to be a CTS issue - because the ISV adds more air and by leaning the mixture increases the rpm. The CTS determines the richness of the mixture during cold operation only. I would check it if you havent already.

    11. 11-01-2005 07:40 PM #411
      interesting .. i did change that a little while back. But i mean withthe ISV plugged in it runs when cold butit does the ol rev bounce till it kills itself. it only straight dies whenthe ISV is unplugged and its cold. And it even sometimes stalls if i let it try to catch itself from a higher rpm like 2 or so. Maybei should just change the blue coolant again and see if that helps. But realistically i shouldnt be going through cts's like that. something else would have to be wrong. maybe its becausei had a leaky old distributor before i got my shiny new one.

    12. 11-01-2005 08:00 PM #412
      maybe the ISV is OK - i think you should do the Bentley check that does a pin-to-pin at the ECU connectors. That doesnt take a lot of time, and will let you check all the sensors, switches etc. that way u can eliminate wiring issues.
      i did it on one of the Motronics and found broken wires inside of the insulation in 3 different places - one of them being at the distributor about 3" from the plug, the others at the MAF position potentiometer.
      just make sure your multi-meter has thin prongs so you dont deform the connectors at the ECU plug.

    13. 11-01-2005 08:32 PM #413
      my isv IS okay. . .i know this because i tested it on another car. So that why i asked what having that plugged in does, and what unplugging it will do to the system. I dont have a multi-meter

    14. 11-01-2005 09:05 PM #414
      Quote, originally posted by MBRACKLIFFE »
      Just an update since it has been sometime now that I originally wrote the FAQ.
      I was doing some tuning today to try and sort out a rough idle. Basically the idle sucked when it was between 900 and 1000 RPM the only solution seems to be to go higher or lower. The stock setting is at 850 but I found that alot of the time it would drift up into the rough idle range.
      Anyways I checked my timing again for like the thousandth time and it was fine but I decided to try advancing it a little. I am not sure exactly how far I advanced it but I would say around 10 or 12 degrees. I then readjusted the to about 800. First off the idle is now great, nice and smooth. Second the power hits much harder and at lower RPM do to the Timing being advanced, I am getting a slight pinging on acceleration so I may notch it back a few degrees but I am not going back down to 7 BTDC.
      The driveability is much improved as is throttle response and power.

      I've got mine set at 8 deg. No ping and significant power improvement. Idles at about 850.
      Everyone loves the idle, smooth yet purposeful. you definately know the cams are in there (268's).

    15. 11-01-2005 09:39 PM #415
      ive got a '91 gti 8v...what year motors should i be looking for?

    16. 11-02-2005 06:02 AM #416
      88-92 PL or 9a engine codes. or mix and match!
      Quote »
      veedubinit

      sorry...ur problem was over my head, but i am paying attn to the responses.
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    17. 11-03-2005 06:53 AM #417
      Quote, originally posted by veedubinit »
      I dont have a multi-meter

      Radio Shack has a small cheap one for less than $20

    18. 11-03-2005 06:55 AM #418
      Quote, originally posted by .logical.progression. »
      ive got a '91 gti 8v...what year motors should i be looking for?

      I think there is a significant difference in the 2.0-16v so 90+ GLI or Passat.

    19. 11-03-2005 08:00 AM #419
      Quote, originally posted by OhioBenz »
      I think there is a significant difference in the 2.0-16v so 90+ GLI or Passat.

      theonly difference betweenany of the 9a motors is the style of gaskets on the head. and when you buy the kit you get both anyway. so it doesnt matter. find a 2.016v and you can use it. Just when you tear it down to rebuild it, pay attention to the gaskets on the flanges on the head.

    20. 11-03-2005 03:58 PM #420
      Quote, originally posted by veedubinit »
      theonly difference betweenany of the 9a motors is the style of gaskets on the head. and when you buy the kit you get both anyway. so it doesnt matter. find a 2.016v and you can use it. Just when you tear it down to rebuild it, pay attention to the gaskets on the flanges on the head.

      the difference I was referring to is the power and torque between the 1.8-16v and the 2.0-16v. I have both and when you go from one to the other its like night & day.
      he was asking which 16v - hence my suggestion to 2.0 [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    21. 11-03-2005 05:22 PM #421
      yea thats my bad, I'm all over the place. I spent all day painting my winter beater with tremclad. ohhhh baby straight diesel for the winter. now you wanna talk about night and day

    22. 11-05-2005 11:55 PM #422
      i found a 1.8 16v...anyone done a digi2 1.8? its got ~135k miles and supposedly runs good. the guy is asking 400. should i grab it or is he asking too much?

    23. 11-06-2005 12:08 AM #423
      you should be able to find a 2.0-16v for close to that price - even a couple $100 more would be worth it IMO

    24. 11-09-2005 05:36 PM #424
      anyone ever done this with a 1.8? havent seena nything about it and im really curious as to how it ran. of course the rev limiter will be a rpoblem; where can i get a chip tor aise the limiter?

    25. 11-09-2005 05:56 PM #425
      Quote, originally posted by .logical.progression. »
      anyone ever done this with a 1.8? havent seena nything about it and im really curious as to how it ran. of course the rev limiter will be a rpoblem; where can i get a chip tor aise the limiter?

      yes. the PL is nice up top..what specifics u wish to know? what rev limit? AMS or SNS, good luck getting either.
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

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