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    Thread: 16v Digfant II FAQ

    1. 10-22-2004 03:28 PM #26
      Quote, originally posted by OhioBenz »
      i do think that the BMW MAF upgrade is needed in order to flow enough air for a 16v...
      i picked one up recently and am going to see if I can swap guts from my spare Digi-2 MAF over. Maybe I'll try this Digi-2 swap on a future project.
      Has anyone compared it to a 2.0-16v CIS-E Motronic running a TT chip? I'm very pleased with the performance that setup has given me.

      I'd be curious to know this too. But when I went to the junkyard, I noticed that many v6 car srun the same size VAM as us. And this is on a 2.6L or bigger V6! So if it flows well enough for a V6 it should be more than enough for a 2.0.


      Modified by cdn20VALVE at 5:39 PM 10-22-2004

    2. 10-22-2004 04:36 PM #27
      Quote, originally posted by cdn20VALVE »
      I'd be curious to know this too. But when I went to the junkyard, I noticed that many v6 car srun the same size VAM as us. And this is on a 1.6L or bigger V6! So if it flows well enough for a V6 it should be more than enough for a 2.0.

      If I can find it back I'll post the link/data because the stock 16vhead flows more CFM than a ported VR6 head. One of my reasons for not bothering to mess with a VR
      here's the link - http://www.porttuning.com/Flow%20data.htm


      Modified by OhioBenz at 5:15 PM 10-22-2004

    3. Member 16V VW's Avatar
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      10-24-2004 10:09 PM #28
      I have a few problems that i need help with.
      - At startup it dosen't idle unless the gas is held at 3k for 30 seconds.
      - Once warmed up, Idle will go up to 3k for 2 seconds then slowly to 1k, then to 3k for a few seconds then down to 1k, it will do it the whole time unless clutch is engauged.
      - A more recent problem is coolant is spitting out somewhere around the front of the head "coolant flange, hoses" or something.
      - My radiator fan WONT turn on for the life of it, i replaced the radiator sensor.
      - Temp gauge dosen't work.
      - Oil and Coolant buzzers are going off the walls.
      im about ready to blow this car up, i need it for school and i have missed 21 days cause of this piece of crap. save me from blowing it up. please.
      check out my for sale threads!
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    4. Member MBRACKLIFFE's Avatar
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      10-24-2004 11:55 PM #29
      Idle: Is it adjusted correctly, timing..? ISV working? If yes then have you checked for vacuum leaks..? A vacuum leak can cause this exact thing but so can an incorrectly adjusted idle. The fluctuating sounds like a dirty ISV so start there and clean it with carb cleaner until it shines. With the key in acc. position the ISV should hum and vibrate.
      Buzzers and lights : unplug the wires from the sensor's and see if they shut off. Check that they are wired to the correct sensor.

      Coolant temp guage: there should be two wires from the Digi2 wiring harness, if you are using the stock 16v sensor you only need one. Brown is usually the ground wire so use the other one for the sensor. or ground one wire at a time and whichever wire makes the temp guage go to full hot is the one you want to use.
      Radiator fan: Do you know the motor works..? if not unplug the fan and use jumper wires from the batt to see if it works. If it is working then check the wiring for anything obvious. After that I would refer to the wiring diagram and start testing with a multimeter.

    5. 10-25-2004 06:42 AM #30
      yeah digital multimeter and a Bentley is usually where you end up at.
      use the DMM to test which wire for the sensor is the ground (with the key off)....it should have continuity to any ground point on the chassis.
      pls remember that Digi does not like sparks, loose grounds etc.... they fry easily!

    6. Member 16V VW's Avatar
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      10-25-2004 11:24 PM #31
      Well heres a good story that is good/bad. Today I got home from school and my friend was driving my jetta and i was driving his, anyway, i was outside fixin some crap on it and the cop pulls up and says, IM GOING TO IMPOUND YOUR CAR RIGHT NOW!!! YOUR AN IDIOT, {MIND YOU THIS IS THE 5TH TIME HE HAS PULLED ME "MY FRIEND OVER"} FOR NO REASON!!! then he says, "speeding in a school zone! "it was 4:30 LOL" you were like a bat out of hell "all my friend driving", then says, " your going to have citations in the mail, bla blah bla, then he gets in his car and pulls upto me after i walk over to my friend and says, " just busting your balls, and peels out and drives away."
      Nextime im going to have a box of donuts in my car.
      but i left and went with some girls and other of that good stuff, so ill check the car out tomorrow.
      True story by the way.
      check out my for sale threads!
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    7. 10-26-2004 11:36 PM #32
      Ok all you digi 2 knowledgable peeps. I have a problem.
      I put my digi2 setup in a while ago and i was running a copper t from the main vaccume on the back of the intake manafold. Now i have been having problems with it trying to compensate and stall out and i figured it was bad vaccume.
      Today i tried to re-route the ISV vaccume more stock ish, where i had a piece of metal blocking the lower intake for the 5th injector i took it off and ran the isv there and form the larger vaccume port on the 8v throttle body.
      When I did this my idle would sit at like 1300rpm so we figured it was a leak somewhere. So i pressureized the system and came up with absolutly nothing .. it was working great. So why is my idle messed up? I then decided to tear out everything and plug all the vaccume ports. i adjusted the idle manually witht he screw and wouldnt you knwo it .. . it works fine. WHAT IS GOING ON? on the 8v if you did that it would crap out in like 3 seconds.
      Also. . my downpipe is sitting on my swap bar making a really bad vibration and noise. should i just rip out the sway bar??? thanks in advance guys


      Modified by veedubinit at 4:41 AM 10-27-2004

    8. Member MBRACKLIFFE's Avatar
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      10-27-2004 12:04 AM #33
      Did you try readjusting your idle when it was idling at 1300 ? If your idle was holding steady at 1300 it sounds like everything was working just needed readjustment.

    9. 10-27-2004 12:11 AM #34
      nope we tried that .. it was fully closed ont he adjustment side is it just me or is this weird???? i mean . .does the isv effect fuel curves? I'm sure with it unplugged it just puts the computer to a default .. .but should i just leave it all ripped out?
      also when it was hooked up it was hickuping and kinda miss firing a bit sometimes. . . and when it was all hooked up it would surge to 1500, then 500, then 2000 then 250 then 2500 or 3000 then stall. But if you helped it with a gas tap when its on its way down it will fix itself and idle.

      Modified by veedubinit at 5:14 AM 10-27-2004


      Modified by veedubinit at 5:18 AM 10-27-2004

    10. 10-27-2004 03:15 PM #35
      The 9A from a 91 GTI would work the same right?

    11. 10-27-2004 03:20 PM #36
      Yes. I am using a transmition form my 1.8 8v and it is not adequite what-so-ever. I will be getting a replacement. if you have the tranny from that gti it would be far better.

    12. 10-27-2004 03:56 PM #37
      an 09A has pretty much the same ratios as an 02Y - input shaft size/diff clutch disk needed.
      i have an 09A in my 90 GLI and can't tell any difference! There's a lot of diff 8v trannies out there - if you get an ACH or something like that you got an "econobox" with long ratios

    13. Member 89JettaCoupe's Avatar
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      10-27-2004 05:59 PM #38
      Has anybody done this swap with a 1.8L 16V yet?

    14. 10-28-2004 11:06 PM #39
      I will work the same way. The mass air flow sensor just reads how much air is coming in and compensates with fuel. The computer knows nothing.

    15. 10-29-2004 06:34 AM #40
      Quote, originally posted by veedubinit »
      I will work the same way. The mass air flow sensor just reads how much air is coming in and compensates with fuel. The computer knows nothing.

      That's not quite accurate - the ECU is programmed for a specific end use. The 1.8-8v is an altogether different setup so some adjustments to the MAF may be required to get proper AF ratios. Best to use an AF meter/gauge.

    16. 10-29-2004 12:25 PM #41
      Quote, originally posted by OhioBenz »
      That's not quite accurate - the ECU is programmed for a specific end use. The 1.8-8v is an altogether different setup so some adjustments to the MAF may be required to get proper AF ratios. Best to use an AF meter/gauge.

      Actually it will. I dont know if you've ever torn apart a MAF sensor, but its a flapper door with a metal arm connected to it telling the CPU how much air is going in. With my 2.0 16v we could never get that meter to its highest point. with a 1.8 16v being smaller it would have even less trouble keeping up. and i dont have an air/fuel gauge but a buddy of mine told me when he checked his it didnt run lean at all even top end. I'm sure a juicer set of injectors wouldnt hurt but thats why i say, you could toss almost any 4banger engine into a digi 2 setup and it would most likly work. .. maybe not perfect. .or good for that matter. . .but i bet it would run
      edit: and a chip to change fuel curves helps to i would imagine .. i still plan on doing that too.

    17. 10-29-2004 05:25 PM #42
      the MAF is just one component tho..... The ECU takes data from a number of items and the VW engineers spent countless hours setting up program maps that work the best with the engine it was designed for in a multitude of circumstances. A fuel/ignition map is a complex grid of data which at best even for a stock engine is a compromise - toss in variables which were never considered during the ECU mapping such as totally different flow patterns and combustion swirl etc resulting from a 16v compared to an 8v head and you are guaranteed not to have an optimum performing engine.
      Will it run better than CIS-E? possibly, is it an improvement - I'd have to see some dyno maps to be completely convinced.
      If Digi-2 was the answer then there wouldn't be a demand for Digi-1 conversions nor a market for Digi-1 chips if even that ECU was perfectly programmed.

    18. 10-29-2004 08:34 PM #43
      For what it is worth I ran my stock 16v digiII on a 50,000$ lab and scope testing machine at my technical school. I was curious to see what I would find.
      Results:
      Fluctuation between 14.8 and 15.2 air fuel ratio

      Conclusion:
      Pretty damn close to what it should be. 14.7. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    19. 10-30-2004 04:47 PM #44
      she runs!!!!!!!!!! digi216v project is running (mandatory pics will come very soon). but one last thing. what did yall do about the temp sensor plug (the female portion). since the 8v and 16v plugs go into different places, where does this one go? (yes i know pics would be great but i ran outa film takin other pics for yall ). i was told that some a3's had a built-in temp plug on the upper radiator hose, and other 16vs had em in other places. for this digi2 app, what should i do for this one plug???????
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
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    20. 10-30-2004 08:17 PM #45

    21. 10-30-2004 10:15 PM #46
      no, i have that on my car. maybe im not explaining the proper sensor. all i know is that there is a plug left with no where to go. i was told that this plug goes into the upper radiator hose, but thats all i know.
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    22. 10-31-2004 01:47 AM #47
      the sensor you speak of is your black connector coolant sensor. usually on an 8v the blue and black coolant sensors hand out on the front of the head on the flang for the man coolant line. You should have your blue sensor on the side of the head like the pic above, as for the black which your asking about. . there is a pin sensor on the back of the head. . .. kinda. . look at where you mounted your blue one .. then lean over and look behing. . you cant miss it. . its kinda high on the head. thats your signal, it sends the same coolant numbers as the one on your 8v, and it control your gauge in the cluster. Ground out the ground wire and hook the other up to that and your laughin [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    23. 10-31-2004 04:17 PM #48
      thats the one. ill take a look at it. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    24. Member 89JettaCoupe's Avatar
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      11-01-2004 09:54 PM #49
      The engine I'm looking at swapping in doenst have power steering, but I do currently have it on my 8V, can I use the 8V power steering pump on the 16V block?

    25. 11-02-2004 12:53 AM #50
      i got my 88 coupe running the other day useing a complete harness out of a 91 carat. still needs some fine tuning. i have the bmw maf but haven't hooked it up yet, i'm waiting to make a short runner witha bigger tb of some sort and bigger injectors. car seems to run good, haven't driven it yet, i'm not running the isv so it takes a min for it to warm up and like running, mind you i'v only set the timing by ear so far but it does have some hesitation when reving, it you ease into it its alright and the warmer it is the better. over all i'm pretty happy with the swap. as long as it goes better then my last nightmare with obd I.

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