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    Thread: 16v Digfant II FAQ

    1. 03-17-2005 03:36 PM #141
      i thought for the 16v, there was no need to adjust it, and if so (only on the stock vw unit), only like 3 clicks, just like the 8v? confirmation anyone?

      ok. lets get this cleared up now. how many clicks (if any) for the bmw unit on a 16v. i know on a stock vw unit, 3 clicks work, especially for the 8v. how many clicks for the 16v. the same 3 clicks...more? ideas???

      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    2. 03-17-2005 05:06 PM #142
      Quote, originally posted by cdn20VALVE »
      I think I may take it out, and break the FAMOUS VAM with my hammer.

      Dont do that...

      it sounds like your coolant temp sensor is not working since it takes that many cranks and the 10 sec runs are all symptoms of that...


    3. 03-17-2005 09:38 PM #143
      Yeah. I'm gonna check the coolant temp sensor tomorrow. There is more power at WOT with the VAM installed.

      I'll update you guys.


    4. 03-18-2005 01:12 PM #144
      cts replaced. Runs strong now.

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      03-18-2005 03:11 PM #145
      just finished putting my 16v out of my wrecked golf into a guys digi2 vehicle.. everything is done, granted it needs some finishing touches. It cranks but wont start up..gotta go do some trouble shooting. It has spark & fuel and better have compression because it came out of my running car...


    6. 03-19-2005 05:18 PM #146
      So I'm the newbie on the 16v digi2 bandwagon. I and as soon as I get rid of this euro CIS stuff the swap will start. Will post pics before I start the swap. Car is an 87 Golf GT with a 1.8l 16v, ligtweight f/w, and headers

    7. 03-19-2005 05:36 PM #147
      Quote, originally posted by rychas1 »
      i thought for the 16v, there was no need to adjust it, and if so (only on the stock vw unit), only like 3 clicks, just like the 8v? confirmation anyone?

      ok. lets get this cleared up now. how many clicks (if any) for the bmw unit on a 16v. i know on a stock vw unit, 3 clicks work, especially for the 8v. how many clicks for the 16v. the same 3 clicks...more? ideas???

      As per Digiracer in the 8v FAQ:

      ... 16 Valve Digifant II owners, this is a must do mod IMHO. Near stock or heavily moddified, 16Valve engines can really take advantage of this. Whether you know it or not, your 16 Valve has athsma & this is the cure.
      The Point: Significant increases in Horsepower & Torque throughout the entire rev range. I'll have some dyno numbers soon. If you're serious about big horsepower and you've done everything else (cam, intake, chip, exhaust) this is the next step. If you didn't catch that, this should be done last.
      Supplies Needed:
      1. Airflow Meter: (AFM) found on the 85-88 BMW 535i (most common), 635i, & 735i. It's the K Series Engine, a 3.5 Liter SOHC Inline 6.
      New AFMs for these cars are expensive, as high as $450+
      Used ones are very cheap from $40-$100 (I only paid $60, shipped to my door) & they can be found @ http://www.car-part.com/
      Search for 1987 BMW 535i under Airflow Meter
      Mine is from a 1987 BMW 535i it's a Bosch Unit.
      The part # is: 0280 203 027
      Note: Do not use the BMW AFMS found on the 325i, 328e, 525i, 528e etc. these units are the same size as our stock/OEM units. (they'll work fine, they just won't give you anymore power)
      Note: Your engine is not going to pull the vacuum of a 3.5 liter 6cyl. Therefor you need to reduce the spring tension to allow your engine to idle properly. (with my 2.0L ABA/1.8 head I found reducing tension 8 clicks to work best) If you're using a 1.8L I assume you'd need to reduce it more.
      ------------------------------------

      I'm at about 7 clicks right now. I find that if under 1500 rpm in any gear, if I punch it, there is not enough intake to pull the flapper open. The car bogs.

      I will try to play with the settings some more.


    8. 03-20-2005 11:39 AM #148
      I tried every setting from 0 clicks to 10 clicks. Same result. The car bods badly at low rpm (below 1500) launches.

      Any ideas what I can try doing guys?

      I'm thinking I should switch the internals from the oem vam into the 3.5 vam.


    9. 03-21-2005 11:52 AM #149
      well...i already read that thread but i wasnt sure if the clicks were different for 8v and 16v. that thread says 7 seems ok. i just want to get a clear idea how many click b4 i go get this thing i mean if 3 clicks work best for the 8v, logic would say that 6 would work best for 16v. just want a clear value (if possible).
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    10. 03-21-2005 04:30 PM #150
      cdn20valve and i have tried every click from one to 10, and it was a **** result everytime, however it may be a faulty unit..... not sure.

    11. 03-21-2005 10:24 PM #151
      Go buy one and try it. I'm curious to know if you have the same results I have.

    12. 03-28-2005 10:34 PM #152
      I got it down to 6 clicks. And let it adapt for a while. It runs good. Not perfect, but as perfect as I think it's gonna run.

    13. 03-29-2005 09:48 AM #153
      Ok now that the 16v is running good. Let's play with it again.

      How do we get rid of the rev limiter?

      AMS chip seems to eb the only option.


      Modified by cdn20VALVE at 9:51 AM 3-29-2005


    14. 03-29-2005 04:32 PM #154
      there is another option.... SNS.
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    15. Member MBRACKLIFFE's Avatar
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      03-30-2005 09:00 AM #155
      The SNS chip gets rid of rev limiter...??? How is that possible with out replacing both chips in the computer...??

    16. 03-30-2005 11:30 AM #156
      ok. lets get something str8 b4 i make this comment. when i swapped in my 16v, literally the next day, my mechanic called me and said 'did u know ur car revs past 7k?' i said that impossible, its a digi2. and he said ' i swear, it did twice'. i didnt believe him until one day i was freerevving against a golf (CIS-E 16v). the guy was like whats in there....i said just a 1.8 auto then he came to my drivers door and said rev it again. so i did, to 6500. he said mine doesnt even go to 6200. i said mine will go to 7. he said lets see. so did. he rubbed his eyes and said no way, do it again. so i went to 7500. he said what chip is doing that. i said...SNS but, the point of all this is that i cant be 100% certain its the chip, as when my mechanic did it, it was unchipped. so who knows why it goes that high. the chip gets it there a hellofalot quicker and in case that doesnt mean anything by freerevving, when i hit WOT while driving, im at 6800. dont ask much more...cause i cant explain much more than that.
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    17. 03-30-2005 05:17 PM #157
      doens't the rev limiter just trip the fuel pump relay?

    18. 03-30-2005 08:56 PM #158
      So today i was driving home and i thought specifically about this post. .. i have a bonnnnne stock digi2 16v and it DOES NOT rev past 6500. And yea i think it trips out the fuel relay.

    19. 03-31-2005 06:26 AM #159
      send ecu to me,
      I have limiter on 7260
      DIGITUN.PL

    20. 03-31-2005 11:17 AM #160
      at this point my 2.0-16v is still Motronic w/ a TT chip.
      My tach only goes up to 7K, unlike the 1.8-16v but rev limit is past 7K.
      what is the factory rev limit of the 2.0-16v Motronic?

    21. 03-31-2005 11:43 AM #161
      meh i dunno .. . .i never let it go that high anyway. . . even when i am beating it .. like my second gear is amazing at 3500. .. . and going all the way up to 6 doesnt seem quicker ..

    22. 03-31-2005 08:59 PM #162
      hey im hope to get a rabbit gti this weekend maybe i want to do a swap i have a 1.8 16v what all do i need to make it work far as wiring and stuff

    23. 04-05-2005 01:25 AM #163
      I have a problem....
      For some unknown reason i cooked my destributor cap center piece. I have been driving with it for like 5 months and today i reved it to 6grand and i lost all spark, now i had another one and tried it but it must have been crap in the first place because it didnt work.
      So my question is why would i go through a destributor cap so quick? anyone else have this issue?

    24. 04-07-2005 11:20 PM #164
      nice job!! I will be trying this swap soon in my 85 rocco...wish me luck!
      Chris

    25. 04-08-2005 12:15 AM #165
      ok so Aparently 16v distributors are known to go through hall sender and destroy caps??? I was not aware of this. . . anyone else ever hear of this issue. the arms bend and destroy everything??
      i got hooke dup hardcore though here in NS got an old distributor and an 8v hall sender and threw them together. . .cars alive again.

      BUT..
      I have an issue with my idle. I had previously removed the ISV because i couldnt get it to idle below 1300 with it. and i have been driving for like 5 months that way .. . using the 8v throttle screw i got a great 900 idle and it was fool proof until it started to get warm.
      Now all of a sudden it's all over the place, acting like its searching. . .sitting at 1500 then going down to 800. . . any ideas??? i looked for vaccume leaks and came up with nothing


    26. 04-08-2005 06:31 AM #166
      Quote, originally posted by veedubinit »

      Now all of a sudden it's all over the place, acting like its searching. . .sitting at 1500 then going down to 800. . . any ideas??? i looked for vaccume leaks and came up with nothing

      our 8v does that all the time - think its a coolant sensor...


    27. 04-08-2005 11:32 AM #167
      hmm i never thought of that. I'll check the wiring and the sensor this weekend. but does you 8v have the ISV hooked up? because isv's can be fussy and search the same way. . .but i know its not that because mine got thrown as far away as possible cause it was acting like a POS

    28. 04-12-2005 01:21 PM #168
      I installed a bmw vam i got from jeramiah, i took the cover off and set the spring so it was similar to the stock unit... fired it up, it barely idled...the motor bounced around.... it will almsot idle, but wont come off idle...wtf is up?? i dont think its damaged...am i supposed to reset the ECU ? hmmm

    29. 04-12-2005 03:06 PM #169
      this is wnat ive been trying to figure out. but the guy from the 8v forum may be on to this answer!
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    30. Member Delete!'s Avatar
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      04-14-2005 10:49 AM #170
      Hey guys, I ran into a little problem w/ my digi swap and was hopin someone here can figure this one, I posted this in the hybrid/swap forum also w/ not much luck as of yet.

      Ok, Im in the process of swapping CE2 / Digi 2 into my already 16v rabbit. I threw in an entire harness/fusebox from a 91 jetta. Now, it gets fuel but DOES NOT get spark at the plugs. When I first hooked everything up it didn't even get spark from the coil, but I ran some tests per bentley and found out the ground wire going to the ICM wasn't any good, so I spliced in a ground there and now I get spark from the coil, but not at the plugs. These are the test/conclusions i've come up w/ thus far:
      Coil is receiving voltage & is being switched correctly
      Swapped in several known good coils
      ICM is receiving voltage
      Swapped in several known good ICM's
      Hall Sender is receiving voltage
      Hall Sender is functioning properly per Bentley test
      Swapped in brand new bosch plugs

      Every now & then when I would ground the plug, I would get a small spark, but this would happen like only 1 or 2 out of 10 times I tried.

      Any & all help is greatly appreciated

      CE2 Fusebox Connectors & Misc Connectors w/ Wiring (I have lots of used OEM connectors & wiring, let me know what you need)

    31. Member MBRACKLIFFE's Avatar
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      04-14-2005 11:51 AM #171
      What color is spark..?? is it a nic e strong spark or weak orange spark..?

      Do you get more than one spark..? if not go back to the hall sender.

      Oil in dist. cap due to leaky seals...?

      Correct cap and rotor and in good shape...?

      Correct spark plug gap..?

      How about plug wires..? Do they check out for the proper resistance... have any splits or damage that would cause arcing..?

      When I first did my swap I had similar problems and it turned out to be the Hall sender... it either was completely shot or just did not work with the Digi2 system for some reason or another. I swapped my hall sender from my 8v dist. into the 16v dist. and I had no problems after that. I still questions the compatability of the 16v hall sender vs. the 8v Hall sender.


    32. Member Delete!'s Avatar
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      04-14-2005 07:04 PM #172
      What color is spark? is it a nice strong spark or weak orange spark? It's more orange then it is blue but it's definitely not weak

      Do you get more than one spark? if not go back to the hall sender. I get 2 sparks, one right when I turn the accesories on and the other a second later when the fuel pump relay shuts off.

      Oil in dist. cap due to leaky seals? Nope, nice and dry in there

      Correct cap and rotor and in good shape? Just bought both new today and threw them on, nothing changed

      Correct spark plug gap? I have new Bosch Platinum FR6DP's in which i assume are pregapped?

      How about plug wires? Do they check out for the proper resistance, have any splits or damage that would cause arcing? Low mileage Blue Ignitors w/ no splits or visual damage and all resistances were in range of bentley spec

      Let me know what ya think... Thanks again

      CE2 Fusebox Connectors & Misc Connectors w/ Wiring (I have lots of used OEM connectors & wiring, let me know what you need)

    33. 04-14-2005 09:15 PM #173
      this mite sound dumb..but have u swapped in a known working ecu. i had that problem when i was chipping and the ecu wasnt plugged in reallly good. just a thought. make sure its good and plugged in well. im not sure how cis ecus look/fit , but with this thing, it can look like its plugged when its not! good luck! keep us posted. listen for a snap
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    34. 04-14-2005 10:26 PM #174
      Quote, originally posted by Eurodub-Webmaster »
      I ran some tests per bentley and found out the ground wire going to the ICM wasn't any good, so I spliced in a ground there
      Any & all help is greatly appreciated

      if the ground was missing - you fried the ecu


    35. Member MBRACKLIFFE's Avatar
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      04-14-2005 11:55 PM #175
      Anything other than nice bright blue spark means something is wrong with coil.. either not functioning properly or not getting enough juice.

      Should most definitly not be getting a spark with key in acc. position though. Check your wiring out some more.


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