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    VWVortex


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    Thread: 16v Digfant II FAQ

    1. 01-15-2005 07:41 PM #101
      question for the digi2 16v fokes.....maybe this is unique to our hybrids?
      cleaned my ISV, it works (been tested and buzzes like a .... ) so i cant figure out how come everytime (now seems like everyday) i havta keep adjusting my idle screw to prevent the car from cutting off from idling so low. i adjust it (to a nice 950, where it should be, when the car is warm and accessories are off, just like bentley suggests. so wtf is making my idle reset itself below where i set it jsut a few hrs ago??? and y? if i turn the idle screw much more, its gonna be out of the throttle body help help before i bend some metal
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    2. 01-15-2005 08:02 PM #102
      on another note mentiond way long ago (concerning my speedo being too fast)...i was actually clocked by a curbside police radar on at least 4 times this week (going down dekalb ave.) and my speedo said 70 exactly, but he radar read 52-53. so, again, is it my cluster (need upgrade to th 140mph one) to read more accurately, or speedo cable to tranny need changing/ upgrading? yes rememeber, its auto, and im sure i just cant buy an 16v auto tranny cable. any ideas???????
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    3. 01-15-2005 11:57 PM #103
      I had to take off my ISV because it was not working correctly. The sensor itself worked but with no vaccume leak (tested) it was trying to get the comp to over compensate like 1500 then 900 then 2000 then 500 then 2500 then stall. Soi thought i needed to re-route the vaccume system as i had a T off the main break booster vaccume on the intake manafold. soooooo wheni set up the vaccume like a stock 16v it idled at 1300 for some reason. . i couldnt figure it out .. we tried everything .. thats as low as we could adjust it with the screw. So eventatually i just ripped it off and adjusted it cleanly with the screw. . .it stalls sometimes when its cold (it is winter too) but 1 min of driving and it idles like a dream. If anyone has any ideas for me then they are welcome. . .but my advice is to rip it off and go without. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    4. Member freeflow90's Avatar
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      01-16-2005 09:46 PM #104
      Hi,
      Im about to start putting together everything I need for my swap so I have a few questions.
      1. Can I use all the 8V motor Mounts?
      2. Can I use all the 16v pulleys (car has a/c and I plan to keep it)
      3. Will the 8V c.v joints work with a 16v transmission?
      Im sure Ill have more!

      Click for a larger image
      P.s The engine came out saturday [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    5. 01-17-2005 11:47 AM #105
      1) Motor mounts - yes
      2) Pulleys - yes
      3) CV joints - 16v are 100mm, 8v are 90mm
      you can either swap the 90 mm flanges over to the 16v trans, or buy the 100mm driveshafts

    6. 01-18-2005 07:13 PM #106
      Only the early (Mk1) 8v's were equipped with the small flanges. Later 8v's had 100mm flanges, IIRC.

    7. 01-18-2005 07:17 PM #107
      all A2 8v CIS-E/Digifants except auto's from 85-92 were 90mm that i ever worked on.

    8. 01-18-2005 09:40 PM #108
      Okay .. I needed this info - Im getting ready to change out the 8v from my 90 jetta and put in the 16v - This is my first go around with VWs - Im not afraid to tackle the job - but I wonder if it would be easier to ditch the digi and and just do the CIS - Anyone want to try to sell me on the benefits of one versus the other and I am putting it in an automatic tranny car so am I looking at any additional issues.

    9. Member freeflow90's Avatar
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      01-18-2005 11:42 PM #109
      I havent done the install part but you would need to change a lot of things to make it cis. So if I were you I would keep the digifant [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    10. 01-19-2005 06:49 AM #110
      go digi! the Motronic CIS-E is a PIA, i got 2 of them!

    11. 01-19-2005 09:19 AM #111
      Agreed, cis and all that mechanical stuff is WAY to fussy

    12. Member 89JettaCoupe's Avatar
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      01-19-2005 09:15 PM #112
      Ok so I am pretty far along in my swap, the only problem I have run into thus far is the exhuast manifold/downpipe. I have my PF 8V dual downpipe, and a mk1 exhuast manifold (didnt check when I bought it) which I know is useless for this swap. Now I thought I could swap it for a mk2 manifold and it would all work, but it now seems that isnt the case either, so is there an option other then getting both the manifold AND downpipe from a passat, cause I don't think I have that sort of cash left over.

    13. Member BOOFWAH's Avatar
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      01-20-2005 09:33 PM #113
      My friend and I are having fun with this swap to say the least we got it to start the other night finally after discovering the idle switch wasn't closed and it sounded great through the racing downpipe...with no other exhaust. But that isn't the real issue. We are dead certain on the timing on the motor and the distributor, but where the distributor is turned to we can not bolt it in place as can be seen in the picture. The #1 wire is on the top left as looked at from the driver side fender and the fire order is correct. What is the deal. We moved the wires back and forth on the distributor and played with the timing on the distributor but it just wouldn't fire. Suggestions are more than welcome. The swap is on a '91 Cabriolet using BBM fuel rail, digifast 2 chip, g60 injectors and 3 bar fpr. Thanks in advance.




    14. 01-20-2005 10:00 PM #114
      Great looking Cabby !!
      I'll try to get u some pix of the distributor/rotor/bolts position off my 89 GLI - i had a hard time with it too.

    15. 01-22-2005 11:14 AM #115
      So yea, note to all you peeps driving your digi2 16v in the more northern climates. I am in Nova Scotia and its freakin cold. Lats night when i left work i came straight home and didnt drive long enought o get the fuel rail warmed up. Come this morning she wont start so i am asuming the fuel rail froze some of the fuel enought o muck up the injectors and make it unhappy. so heads up. . if you have a baun brenner or ross machine racing style fuel rail. . .get them warm so they dont screw off on ya.

    16. 01-22-2005 12:12 PM #116
      it would only freeze if you have moisture in your fuel right? Fuel itself (gasoline) doesn't jell like Diesel does so as long as you keep ur tank filled there's less moisture buildup from condensation in the tank - and add "dry gas" with every tank...... It shouldnt be any different from a regular Digi right???

    17. 01-22-2005 12:41 PM #117
      well my tank ran REALLY low because of lack of funds .. . but the normal digi's are plastic .. .. not so prone to freeze gas(or moisture in the gas)
      But now that i have had heat lamps on it for like 2 hours i really amy starting to think itsjust my fuel lines. . grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

    18. Member BOOFWAH's Avatar
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      01-22-2005 05:28 PM #118
      Thanks for the compliments on the cabby! My friend and I are stumped on it and I've been working my arse off lately and had no time to fart around with it. So it sits with a distributor that you have to hold in place by hand if you want to start the car...which then proceeds to stall after a couple of seconds. The joys of motor swaps Looking forward to seeing your pics and anyone elses posts on this snafu.

    19. 01-22-2005 08:14 PM #119
      K, here's a pic of the distributor on my 1.8-16v after I rebuilt the engine.... It was a restore and a lot of parts were missing when i started it - one beingthe distributor. I had a heck of a time getting it running even though I had the timing set "spot-on" with all the marks right on and the rotor at #1 - until my buddy Dave Huff asked me to "humor him" and put the bolts in the current position - it fired right up!!

      for a bigger pic: http://www.hotdub.com/pictures...N.JPG
      some pix of the 89 GLI project: http://www.hotdub.com/pictures...um=17
      Hope all this helps - this GLI is going to become Digi-2 in the spring!

    20. 01-24-2005 01:40 PM #120
      another chip review, for sns on my auto digi2 16v!
      those interested..read here.
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=2 [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    21. Member BOOFWAH's Avatar
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      01-24-2005 02:11 PM #121
      The GLI looks great. You know it doesn't help too much having to run a scirocco intake manifold. That throttle body is all over the distributor and is such a pain to turn. Your distrib is turned almost to the max on the front bolt. If you look at my pic you can see just the top of the top hole on mine, and plug wire 1 is in the same spot as yours . We'll figure this thing out. We might have to start moving some things around (timing marks) to find the sweet spot that bolts the distributor in place. Thanks for posting the pics and the GLI looks great.

    22. 01-24-2005 03:29 PM #122
      the irony is that the distributor only goes in one way... and everything else only lines up only one way too! (unless its off LOL) There's no real tuning like with an 8v distributor where you can move the drive gear a tooth.
      On the bottom of this linked page and the first couple pix on the next page are how the rest of the timing is set on that GLI: http://www.hotdub.com/pictures...bum=2
      The 90 GLI we did for my middle son is a lot nicer yet

    23. Member EuroRabbit's Avatar
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      01-29-2005 10:45 PM #123
      What about puting a Digi II swap into a CIS-E Car? How much more work is that? Dose anyone have any info on that?
      Thanks!!!
      Thanks VWvortex for the hard work!

    24. 01-29-2005 11:30 PM #124
      if yours is a 89.5+ Jetta or a 90+ Golf, it has CE-2 electrics so Digi-2 would be a plug-n-play. If its an earlier year then it becomes a little more complicated to get all the gauges & tach to work from what I've read. The 16v Digi-1 FAQ has a schematic for power connections for a Digi-1 so I imagine that it wouldnt be any different for a Digi-2.
      Otherwise - its prob best to yank the dash - swap a CE-2 harness, fusebox & cluster in along with an engine harness out of any digifant 8v. It all fits right in pretty much. I did that to an A1 so I could go Digi-1.

    25. Member EuroRabbit's Avatar
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      01-30-2005 01:11 PM #125
      How much work was it to get this setup when you did an MK1?
      Did you have to cut and splice any wires? Or was it all just one in, and one out? Also what did you do about speedo/tach?
      Thanks VWvortex for the hard work!

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