DIY - Rheostat Switch Install and Headlight Rewiring by OEMPlus

[rmbalisa]

This is what OEMPlus has created and it is step by step instructions on what do to. Thanks Jan!

*Please perform at your own risk!*

OEM HID Headlight Rewiring for Rheostat Switch – “Do it yourself”

For use with modified 12-10 pin adapters, rheostat switch, and rheostat harness.

Set aside 2 hours in a comfortable environment for this install. Average times may vary depending on skill. Methods vary between the OEM HID’s for the Jetta and Golf/Gti/R32 only in several places. These places will be outlined in the text.

You will need the following tools to complete this “do it yourself:”
-Wire Cutters
-Torx screwdriver (with different size bits)
-Needle Nose pliers or similar crimping device
-18-22 gauge wiring taps x2
-18-22 gauge butt connectors x2

Rewiring of the internals to accept the rheostat power and input
a) Pop off the silver retaining clip/s (1 on the Golf/Gti/R32 and 2 on the Jetta) on the back housing of the OEM HID headlight assembly, remove the small housing. This will give you access to the internal wiring.

If you have a Jetta you may skip directly to “c)”
b) Remove the two Torx screws holding the igniter in place over the wiring.

c) Locate the thin yellow wire that travels from pin 11 on the small removable housing to the ballast. Cut it close to the ballast, remove a ¼ inch of the tubing from the longer side to reveal the wire, twist the wire neatly.
d) Locate the thin black wire that runs from the ballast to the leveling motor (BE SURE THAT IT RUNS TO THE LEVELING MOTOR). Cut it close to the ballast, remove a ¼ inch of tubing from the longer side to reveal the wire, twist the wire neatly.
e) Using a butt connecter place the yellow wire coming from pin 11 in one end of the butt connector and in the other end of the butt connector the black wire running to the leveling motor. Crimp tightly with pliers or crimping tool. Make sure that the wires are tightly held into the butt connecter. You should now have one continuous wire that runs from pin 11 to the leveling motor.
f) locate the thin black wire that runs from pin 1 from the small removable housing to the leveling motor.
g) Locate the thick yellow wire that runs from pin 6 from the small removable housing to the ballast.
h) Using a wire tap, tap the thin black wire with the thick yellow wire, making sure you get a good connection. Note: You are neither cutting either wire, but merely tapping both of them together.

If you have a Jetta you may skip directly to “j)”
i) Replace the igniter, black piece, and 2 torx screws.

j) Reseal the rear of the housings by replacing the small removable housing and fastening the retaining clips, making sure not to get any wires caught between them.

Rheostat Switch – “Do it yourself” Install

Set aside 2 hours in a comfortable environment for this install. Average times may vary depending on skill.

Step 1: Installation of the New Rheostat switch
a) Remove the fuse box panel on the left hand side of the dashboard using a flat headed screwdriver by gently prying it off.
b) Remove the bottom left panel from the lower dashboard underneath the steering wheel, by removing the two (2) Torx screws and pulling carefully toward you. The panel should simply snap out. Next repeat this procedure for the bottom right panel on the lower dashboard underneath the steering wheel.
c) Remove the insulated knee protector from the bottom of the dashboard by simply pulling it out. Set aside all parts and screws in a comfortable place.
d) Locate the old rheostat switch and push it out by placing your hand behind the dashboard (through the removed fuse box paneling). Unclip the harness to the switch and set aside the switch, you will not need it anymore.
e) Your goal now is to remove the wires from the old plastic housing keeping all the little female metal terminals intact. Remember or write down the order in which the wires are inserted into the old rheostat housing because they will be placed in the same manner in the new one. I find it easier to slice apart the old plastic housing using a pair of wire cutters/sheet metal cutters. Please use care when removing these wires as the metal terminals attached to these wires is very fragile.*
f) Unwind the new rheostat harness and locate the new plastic housing. Slip the housing from behind the dashboard in the same manner as the old one and insert the removed wires with terminals into this new plastic housing in the same manner that they were in the old plastic housing.
g) The black wire will be routed through the firewall and to the headlights, but the little red wire will be tapped into the red/yellow striped wire that comes from the headlight switch. It is imperative that you do not cut this red/yellow wire but simply tap the red wire into it! The easiest way would be to use a wire tap available at all hardware stores/or you may wish to solder it to the wire and cover it with electrical tape. The choice for this is completely yours.
h) Now simply snap the new rheostat switch onto the new plastic terminal and then snap it into place. You can turn the lights on immediately to see that the switch is lighting up as it should and that the appropriate dimming effects are working.

Step 2: Wiring the Headlights
a) Open the engine bay and locate a small rubber grommet on the upper right portion of the firewall, immediately to the left of the wiring enclosure and some small electrical components. Push it through to the inside of the car. This hole will be where you will run the wire through to the engine bay.
b) From the inside of the vehicle, thread the wire behind the dash board and towards the new opening you had created being careful not to cause any interference with the electrical harness as well as objects such as pedals and the steering column. Once the wire is pulled through from the engine bay, you can snake it around the right hand side of the engine bay any way you wish.
c) Before going about installing the two ends of this harness, go back to the inside of the car and set the rheostat switch to the middle point you want. This will insure that you retain the desired setup that you originally had. I recommend setting the middle to between 1 and 2, or simply 2. As this will allow you to adjust 2 settings in the upward position and 1 in the downward position. (3 being the lowest level for the lights and the “-“being the highest level)
d) Locate the driver side OEM wiring harness and remove the plastic grommet that is inside hole #1. Using a small flat headed screwdriver, slide out the small purple or orange plastic piece that locks the terminals inside the plastic housing. You can see this piece when looking at the plastic housing head on.
e) Push the smaller wire that runs off from the main wire into this opening and return the small purple/orange plastic piece to lock all the terminals in place. You can now connect it to you 12-to-10 pin adapter.
f) Repeat steps d and e for the passenger side.
g) check to make sure all your harnesses are connected securely and proceed if it has not already done so to install the OEM HID’s
h) Check the rheostat switch to make sure both headlights move exactly in the same manner and in the same directions.

Congratulations, you are now able to enjoy this feature! Please also use caution when using this feature, as these lights are very powerful and could potentially cause temporary blindness of oncoming traffic should they be set too high.

[VgRt6]

Added to the DIY thread.

Gary

[GassinGerhard]

Will this work on e-codes as well. My e-codes have servos to adjust the height too. I've got the new, dual thumbwheel rheostat thingy with the numbers on it but it won't mate to the existing connector. Perhaps that's why you got rid of the original, no? Got a part number for that connector?

[ingallsz]

Will this install work with the ECS OEM Euro HID kit?

[Wolfie-03]

NICE