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    Thread: 20V Hybrid - How To

    1. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      91 Audi 80 2.0T
      11-08-2004 06:23 AM #1
      EXTERNAL WATER PUMP BLOCK:

      Quote, originally posted by John Doe »

      1.How do I fit a 20V on a PG block?

      The same way you would fit an 8V or 16V Head onto any old style external water pump block such as 9A/3A/PG/PM.
      There are 3 Oil return ports at the rear of the head that need to be blocked as well one on the front.

      * For the (3) Oil returns @ the rear ,you can either:
      1. Weld them shut
      2. Use (3) 3/8" NPT plug which is tapered and made to seal fluid passages.

      * for the small Oil return @ the front ,if you have the:
      1. PG Block you weld up the exisiting return and create a new one ("a") that matches the ABA Headgasket.
      2. ABA Block you drill the ABA headgasket at the front oil return to match the AEB cylinder head.No modifications to the head are needed when using the crossflow blocks (ABA/9A/PL/AEB) since they have the necessary over hanging lip to ensure proper sealing of the headgasket.

      Make sure you use an ABA 4-Layer Metal Headgasket to ensure proper sealing
      PART # : 037 103 383 N

      * For those wanting to know how to set the timing chain follow this useful link.

      Quote, originally posted by John Doe »

      2.How do I put a 20V Head onto a PG Block and still retain the distributor for Digi-I?

      The whole point of this thread is too allow 8V PG G60 owners (and others) to upgrade there valvetrain without the need to upgrade there injection system.Jwatts & Mkrad have done alot of research and chip development (SNS Tuning) with Digi-I so getting a chip burnt for your application is not going to be too hard.
      Anyways on with the show..for this your going to need the following pieces:
      Quote, originally posted by What to Use »

      1. CAM GEAR:
      16V Cam Gear - 52T : 027 109 111H
      2. CRANK GEAR:
      16v Crankshaft Sprocket - 26T : 027 105 236B

      3. INTERMEDIATE SHAFT GEAR:
      Because your using a distribtuor you are going to want your camshaft & distributor to turn at a 1:2 ratio to the crankshaft.The only way to achieve this is by pressing on a 52T gear onto the IM shaft.In this case you have 2 options:
      1. Using an AWP 20V (06B 109 111) Camshaft Gear and the 8V Intermediate shaft.Modify the keyway on the IM shaft to fit the camgear.The 8v used a press in half mood key way and the 20v cam gear uses a molded in 1/4 moon so it wont fit unless a path is cut in the IM shaft to fit the key onto the gear
      2. Using the 16V Camshaft Gear along with the PL IM shaft.This maybe the more affordable route but it requires a spacer because the gear is going to be to far inward.

      4. TIMINT BELT & TENSIONER - 153T BELT:
      * OEM 9A 16V Timing belt Tensioner
      Since we are usng a 220mm PG block then either of the following 151-153T belts will work.
      All Belts should have a Curvilinear II profile
      1. OEM AEB : PART# 058 109 119 C

      5. PISTONS - 81mm
      1. Stock AEB 1.8T Pistons
      2. Custom set from JE Pistons through rhussjr
      3. MAHLE 81.5mm upgrades from 034Motorsport

      6. CONNECTING RODS:
      1. AEB Connecting Rods - The PG connecting rods are too short and the wrist pin diameter on them is 22mm as opposed to the AEB's 20mm.These can be had as a combination all over vortex for under $150US
      2. 9A 144mm Connecting rods with ARP rod bolts
      3. Forged 144mm Connecting rods from SCAT,Pauter,Corillo,Eagle,etc


      Quote, originally posted by John Doe »

      3.How do I put a 20V Head onto an ABA Block and still retain the distributor?

      The same procedure used for the PG block will be adapted to the ABA block.The ABA block has a deck height of 236mm so its going to need a longer belt and this is where the difference in belts come into play.
      Quote, originally posted by ABA uses a longer 158T belt »

      4. TIMINT BELT & TENSIONER - 158T BELT:
      * OEM 9A 16V Timing belt Tensioner
      * 52T IM Shaft gear used
      All Belts should have a Curvilinear II profile

      5. PISTONS - 82.5mm
      1. Stock 9A 16V pistons with a relief cut for the #5 valve
      2. Custom set from JE Pistons through rhussjr

      6. CONNECTING RODS:
      1. ABA Connecting Rods with ARP bolts
      2. Forged 159mm Connecting rods from SCAT,Pauter,Corillo,Eagle,etc


      Quote, originally posted by John Doe »

      4.I want to build an ABA 20V but I dont need the distirbutor.What should my combination be like?

      Well since your no longer using a distributor then your IM shaft does not need to spin @ 1:2 ratio to the crankshaft so the following applies:
      Quote, originally posted by What to Use »

      3. INTERMEDIATE SHAFT GEAR:
      Stock 9A or PL Intermediate shaft with matching 43T IM shaft gear.Make sure you have the oil pump gear to correspond with your IM shaft.

      4. TIMINT BELT & TENSIONER - 157T BELT:
      * OEM 9A 16V Timing belt Tensioner
      All Belts should have a Curvilinear II profile
      1. Contitech : PART# STD 1256 S8M - A260107
      2. Gates : PART # 5432XS

      (Belt is from 1996 Fiat Bravia 1.6L 16v AH)

      Quote, originally posted by John Doe »

      5.What additional parts will I need?

      * Exhaust Manifold from an Audi A3/VW Golf 1.8 20V NA - PART# 06A 253 031 E
      * Intake Manifold from an Audi TT Quattro - PART# 06A 133 223 AT or custom make your own.
      * Accessory Pulley's
      All the accessory's will align the same except for the crankshaft unit.You will need to either:
      A. Purchase an ABA unit and machine it down 5.9mm
      B. Purhcase a Diesel unit from Smokinjoe644
      * Optional Cogged Gear Pulley's
      * OEM Turbo Oil Pan [PART #:068 103 601 L]
      * Breather Block off plate for 9A/ABA block : This can be sourced from forum elder Peter Tong




      INTERNAL WATER PUMP BLOCK:

      Quote, originally posted by John Doe »

      6.How do I impliment a distributor for Digi-I on an AWP 1.8T block?

      Some users dont want to go through the hassle of building a Hybrid motor and would prefer to start with a new engine from a 2002+ VW Golf/Jetta 1.8T.The obvious advantage to doing this is the low mileage and the availability of parts.Unfortunately for some users,the AWP/AWW/etc engines require full SEM systems (034EFi,etc) in order to get them up and running.Allthough SEM is an excellent choice,it is not smog legal in some States.A way around this is by implimenting Digi-I or similar fuel injection systems.
      ReflexTuning offers a kit that allows users who have access to a new style 1.8T engine to run a distributor in the place of stock Hall/Camshaft position sensor allowing them to use Digi-I.The end result is a rather slick looking set up and requires no additional parts by the user.(other than the engine ofcourse)

      Quote, originally posted by John Doe »

      7.Well I managed to score an AEG engine for dirt cheap and now I want to put a 20V head on it,what do I need to do?

      Well the fortunate thing about the AEG engine is that it is an internal water pump block engine,therefore the rear oil returns in the head do not need to be modified,however quite a few parts are needed.
      Quote, originally posted by What parts are needed »

      1. PISTONS:
      The stock AEG pistons compensate for the 8V's 10:1 CR rather nicely but when paired with a 20V head,the CR drops to ~ 8.2:1 which is ideal for FI applications.Because the AEG block has an 82.5mm bore,sourcing stock "1.8T" 81mm pistons would be a waste of time and notching the allready low quality AEG pistons for a #5 valve is asking for trouble.The AEG 20V REQUIRES you to purchase custom pistons from either:
      1. JE (through JRC Motorsports)
      2. Weisco
      As you will not find 82.5mm 20V pistons with a low CR.

      2. CONNECTING RODS:
      Just like the stock AWP 1.8T,the AEG also has weak connecting rods (rated @ 350bhp).Since the AEG 20V is a custom build it is recommended that you upgrade with forged units either from:
      * Pauter
      * Corillo
      * SCAT (most affordable)

      3. TIMINT BELT & TENSIONER:
      * OEM AWP/AWW 1.8T Timing belt
      All Belts should have a Curvilinear II profile

      4. HEAD GASKET:
      06B 103 383 AF - European head gasket with the 3 oil returns.AEG headgasket does not have the 3 rear oil returns.

      5. PARTS NEEDED FROM 1.8T ENGINE:
      Because your starting with a non-Turbo engine block,expect to need some stock 1.8T parts.You can always improvise with aftermarket components but having stock available is always a plus.
      * oil filter bracket (you can tap the stock AEG bracket for an oil feed)
      * coolant Lines & hoses
      * Coolant return line for turbocharger - This requires the rear of the AEG block for the coolant return fitting.
      * Hyrbid Oil Pan
      * Intake manifold
      * Exhaust manifold

      The End Result courtesy of Twinscrew20V:

      & Eurosport

      The collected information and projects in this thread is simply amazing... Special Thanks goes out to the following as they made this happen:
      * Shawn DeZego who has been nothing but GREAT with his helpfullness and attention to detail!Below is an image of the current state of his ABE G60 Project.

      (click image to enlarge)
      * Twinscrew20V
      * Scirocco20v/GTibunny16v
      * rhussjr
      * smokinjoe644

      Other Vortexer Projects:
      Westcoastjay's Proect thread
      WolfGTI's Project thread
      **Useful thread on FI ITB's**

      Some Additional Information that I found/Calculated:

      Quote, originally posted by Head Chamber CC's »

      PG 8V Head Chamber = 29cc (counterflow)
      PL 16V Head Chamber = 49cc
      ABA 8V Head Chamber = 30cc (crossflow)
      AEB 20V Head Chamber = 42cc

      Quote, originally posted by ROD RATIO and other Values for Common VW Hybrid's »

      Block = PG
      Deck Height = 220mm
      Rod Length = 136mm
      Stroke = 86.4mm
      ROD RATIO = 1.57
      Bore = 81mm
      Compression Height = 40.8mm
      Wrist Pin Diameter = 22mm
      Displacement = 1780cc

      Block = 3A/9A
      Deck Height = 220mm
      Rod Length = 144mm
      Stroke = 92.8mm
      ROD RATIO = 1.55
      Bore = 82.5mm
      Compression Height = 29.6mm
      Wrist Pin Diameter = 20mm
      Displacement = 1984cc

      Block = ABA
      Deck Height = 236mm
      Rod Length = 159mm
      Stroke = 92.8mm
      ROD RATIO = 1.71
      Bore = 82.5mm
      Compression Height = 30.6mm
      Wrist Pin Diameter = 21mm
      Displacement = 1984cc

      TDI CRANK
      Block = ABA
      Rod Length = 159mm
      Stroke = 95.5
      ROD RATIO = 1.67
      Bore = 83.5mm
      Compression Height = 29.25mm
      Wrist Pin Diameter = 21mm
      Displacement = 2091cc

      ABA CRANK
      Block = ABA
      Rod Length = 159mm
      Stroke = 92.8mm
      ROD RATIO = 1.71
      Bore = 83.5mm
      Compression Height = 30.6mm
      Wrist Pin Diameter = 21mm
      Displacement = 2032cc

      AEB 1.8T CRANK
      Block = ABA
      Rod Length = 159mm
      Stroke = 86.4mm (AEB Crank)
      ROD RATIO = 1.84
      Bore = 83.5mm
      Compression Height = 33.8mm
      Wrist Pin Diameter = Whatever Piston you choose
      Displacement = 1892cc

      For those of you that have hybrid parts for sale.Feel free to post them in here but please follow the rules.


      Modified by Issam Abed at 10:25 PM 7-15-2009


    2. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      91 Audi 80 2.0T
      11-08-2004 07:28 AM #2
      This is a 16V using the Distributor in the block...You would have to use a Peugeot Distributor cap for both the 16V and 20V setup just to clear the manifolds.The Stock 8V cap is too tall.


      Modified by Wizard-of-OD at 9:31 PM 11-14-2006

    3. 11-08-2004 01:55 PM #3
      dude , nice write up

    4. Member G'D60's Avatar
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      01 TTQ 91Gsexty
      11-09-2004 11:24 AM #4
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »
      And this is Eurosport's.Its supposed to be a N/A 20V unit from Europe.I could be wrong but its the same concept:


      Is that an ITB 20V setup? or am i on acid?

      Question. is there any way to run G60 pistons on this setup? Sourcing the head should be easy enough but the addition of pistons will damn near double the price of this setup. i'd like to use as much of the orgional G60 as possible on this setup.


    5. 11-09-2004 11:45 AM #5
      thisis what i was looking for . every question i had was anwsered , please make this a sticky. cause i dont want to hunt for it later .
      dame good post. i just need to get a corrado , or i may throw one og these in my gti.

      question, i have a 9a bottomend with je 9.1 compression pistons in it . besides haveing them but for the valves, would my compression go up with the 20v head ?
      i am running a 8v head on the block right now and have 14:1 because of the 8v head. but the piston are set for 9;1 on a 16v head. anyone know what my compression would be ?

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    6. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      91 Audi 80 2.0T
      11-09-2004 11:55 AM #6
      Quote, originally posted by G’D60 »

      Is that an ITB 20V setup? or am i on acid?

      Those are Webbers(carbs) 45's i Believe.

      Quote, originally posted by G’D60 »

      Question. is there any way to run G60 pistons on this setup? Sourcing the head should be easy enough but the addition of pistons will damn near double the price of this setup. i'd like to use as much of the orgional G60 as possible on this setup.

      Stock a G60 has a CR of 8:1.The G60 Pistons have a piston dish 25 cc's whereas the 20V pistons have 0 dish.So theoretically all the dish of a 20V is in the head.
      Placing a 20V head on a G60 piston will cause the CR to be extremely low,something like 7:1 CR.If you place a 20V head on a ABA block the CR drops from 10:1 to 8.5:1 and this is good but the G60 is a low compression engine.
      You could always get custom pistons made from JE,using your stock G60 rods which arnt that bad.

      Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 »
      thisis what i was looking for . every question i had was anwsered , please make this a sticky. cause i dont want to hunt for it later .
      dame good post. i just need to get a corrado , or i may throw one og these in my gti.

      Thanks alot
      I am working on trying to get this made a sticky but it is allready in FAQ.My issue is the FAQ thread relates to 8V G60's.Automatically when someone sees the FAQ they associate it with 8V G60's.There is no real documentation about how to do a 20V G60.Bahn Brenner has there 16V G60 documented and the distributor is in the head so its not a problem there.
      Lets hope some good comes of this.

      Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 »

      question, i have a 9a bottomend with je 9.1 compression pistons in it . besides haveing them but for the valves, would my compression go up with the 20v head ?
      i am running a 8v head on the block right now and have 14:1 because of the 8v head. but the piston are set for 9;1 on a 16v head. anyone know what my compression would be ?

      Very Nice CR.With a 20V Head your CR will be 9.5:1 or there abouts because the 16V head has a bigger dish than the 20V Head.
      Someone posted some time ago the difference in the cc #'s between the 2 heads but for sure the 16V head takes up more cc's over the 20V.
      TwinScrew report to HQ's
      Keep em coming fellas!


      Modified by Wizard-of-OD at 11:11 AM 3-28-2006

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      11-09-2004 12:31 PM #7
      8v counter flow has been measured to 29cc, Cross flow to 30cc, and the 16v was a 49cc head. the 20v is a 42cc head and the piston IS dished...But it ranges depening on which pistons you use (my 9.3:1s were 8cc) The G60 bits will be WAY too low and theres really no way to use them. You may get away with 8v parts but you'll kill you're combustion efficiency due to where VW worked the quench area. I paid $150 for a complete set of used pistons and Rodsfor my motor...And as a bonus...They bolt right in (48mm rod journals on both motors ) Just find a set...Theyre out there. Why spend the time and money to build a better flowing motor if it burns inefficiently???

      Edit for crammed cluttered brain


      Modified by TwinScrew20v at 9:48 AM 11-9-2004


    8. 11-09-2004 01:13 PM #8
      i know the answer is in here somewhere , but i didnt see it . if i put the head on my 9 block, i would use a 8v dist. in the block , what wiring would i use ,i have a complete metronics set up , would i be able to use that or would i just use a digi 1 for it . i am great with the wench but wiring scares me a little. so far it doesnt seem hard to make it all work , but i need to understand how i will wire it up.

      what i see is use a digi 1 set up and use a 1.8t fuel rail . but how would i get the spark plug wires to work cause the 20v head is a coil head. or do i just use 16 v wires ?

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    9. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      11-09-2004 01:21 PM #9
      Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 »
      i know the answer is in here somewhere , but i didnt see it . if i put the head on my 9 block, i would use a 8v dist. in the block , what wiring would i use ,i have a complete metronics set up , would i be able to use that or would i just use a digi 1 for it . i am great with the wench but wiring scares me a little. so far it doesnt seem hard to make it all work , but i need to understand how i will wire it up.

      I would use the Digi 1.I have no experience with motronic set up.
      a G60 Distributor will work in either a 3A/9A Block.But you will have to use the 3A/9A Intermediate shaft because the 1.8 shaft will hit the crank.
      Wiring up Digi 1 is pretty simple...there loads of info as to how to wire it up.

      Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 »

      what i see is use a digi 1 set up and use a 1.8t fuel rail . but how would i get the spark plug wires to work cause the 20v head is a coil head. or do i just use 16 v wires ?

      You would use 16V Plug wires from Thomas Woody and a Peugeot or Citroen distributor cap because the 8V dizzy cap will interfere with the intake manifold.
      Or you can go with Bahn Brenner the forum sponsour,Pictured is there 8V set.They do have a 16V set but you get the idea..



      Modified by Wizard-of-OD at 1:39 PM 11-9-2004

    10. 11-09-2004 01:28 PM #10
      i have a 8v intermedate shaft in the block right now , never hit the crank. you ned to change the shaft to a 8v one becasue the 16v one wont turn the dist. ( that is want cullen told me , so i bought a new one and the bigger dist. gear for it . i bought a aba one. i dont have to change the crank out right . remember that it is a 9a block , th eonly thing i did to the block is this.

      9a RST crank ( knifed and balanced )
      9a rods ( arp bolts, balanced and polished )
      aba intermedate shaft ( put on a lath and balanced and lightened )
      aba dist. gear
      adaptor for dist. to fit in block
      9a/3a block off plate
      8v oil pump aba
      8v crank gear
      what else can i do or do i have to do.

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    11. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      91 Audi 80 2.0T
      11-09-2004 01:37 PM #11
      Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 »
      i have a 8v intermedate shaft in the block right now , never hit the crank. you ned to change the shaft to a 8v one becasue the 16v one wont turn the dist. ( that is want cullen told me , so i bought a new one and the bigger dist. gear for it . i bought a aba one. i dont have to change the crank out right . remember that it is a 9a block , th eonly thing i did to the block is this.

      16V and 8V IM shafts are the same.I know this first hand because my engine is a 9A 8V.The 9A and 3A are the same blocks just different Numbers.In the 16V a separate gear/cog links the IM Shaft and Oil Pump whereas in a 8V this gear/cog is replaced by the Distributor.
      Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 »

      9a RST crank ( knifed and balanced )
      9a rods ( arp bolts, balanced and polished )
      aba intermedate shaft ( put on a lath and balanced and lightened )
      aba dist. gear
      adaptor for dist. to fit in block
      9a/3a block off plate
      8v oil pump aba
      8v crank gear
      what else can i do or do i have to do.

      Are you trying to piece together the parts to build a 20V 9A?

    12. 11-09-2004 01:45 PM #12
      well i only payed 35 for a nes shaft, wish i was told that i didnt need to buy a new one. they looked the same when they were out of the car , oh well

      yes , i have this bottom end in my car right now running it with a 8v head. ( same as you ) but i am thinking of putting a 20v head on it . so everythign i wrote is in my motor already. running on cis-e currently. i knoe the cis-e will have to be thorwn out , just want to know if i have to replace anything i put in the motor already. it is a really mean 8v motor , but if i have to change anythiing in it , i may build up a nother 9a have laying around.

      basicaly , can i do the hybrid of the 20v head o my 9a block , with out having to pull my crank out or the insides of the block out. just change the gears on the out side of it.

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    13. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      11-09-2004 01:53 PM #13
      Ok got you.

      Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 »

      1.9a RST crank ( knifed and balanced )
      2.9a rods ( arp bolts, balanced and polished )
      3.aba intermedate shaft ( put on a lath and balanced and lightened )
      4.aba dist. gear
      5.adaptor for dist. to fit in block
      6.9a/3a block off plate
      7.8v oil pump aba

      What you would need is
      1.16V Crankshaft Gear
      2. 20V Camshaft Gear
      3. For bling factor either a Techtonics adjustable 20V Cam Gear or 16V Cam Gear.

      Make sure that if your using ABA distributor that you use ABA IM shaft and whatever else.Not sure if there is any difference between PG/9A/3A oil pump and ABA Oil Pump.I know the 3A and 9A have different oil pump shafts(for the gear) but there are identical pumps.
      Once you have the 20V Cam Gear(2.) ,have a machine shop machine the ABA Intermediate shaft to allow the 20V cam Gear to fit snuggly on it.
      I am not sure if your #5 valve will hit the pistons because I cant see the design but I would remove the engine and build it up nice so you can take pictures for us.


    14. 11-09-2004 02:04 PM #14
      have you ever seen the je 9.1 pistons? they are dished and cut for the two valves on a 16v . i would think that i will nedd them cut different. the aba oil pump is supossed to flow more, but i dont know if that is true. my oil pump and dist. are all set , that s why i changed the gear on it , to work with the aba one. so there isnt muc for me to do . the insides just got built up , only have 190 miles on the motor. and the only thing i would have to remove is the shaft to get it machined . not bad. i didnt want to have to pull my rods off again and have to get them resized ( again ). i may be able to run 2 gaskets to clear the valve. maybe . i dont wnat to do that , but i did it before to drop my compression before i got the je pistons. will have to look and see. any one how mush valves are each for a 20v , the head i am looking at has 3 bent ones( 1 intake camber )
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    15. 11-09-2004 02:14 PM #15
      my dist. i am using is a 8v cis-e dist. same sive as the g-60 one. i have a adaptor ring to make it fit in the 9a block. so i will pick up a g-60 dist. to work with the digi 1 . the head is around 250 shipped
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    16. 11-09-2004 02:22 PM #16
      i had to get the ring form TT to fit my dist. in the whole , the whole is bigger in a 9a block then ina stock 8v block. you should of had the same thing. the 8v dist. ( 1986 gti ) is skinner then the aba one. soi figured that the g-60 one is like the stock 8v one
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    17. Member
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      11-09-2004 02:41 PM #17
      There is a valve releif cut into the 20v piston for the 3rd intake valve (the center one) This may be a factor with the 16v pistons. There are no other releifs cut in the 20v Pistons. The G60 Dizzy is the same as the 8v (ive put 8vs in G60s before...Just make sure the hall sender has the same amonut of windows as the G60 Dizzy...I cant remember if its the 1 or 4 right now Ive been playing with both lately) 16v cams sprocket or adjustable cam sprocket will work...But if you go adjustable use the 16v cam bolt washer (the 20v it too large) and the 20v cam bolt!!! Id suggest the cam sprocket. Mine seems to have a slightly higher end power band to the butt at 0 degree and feels alot better at about 4 degrees advanced on the cam.

      The oil pumps in the 9A, PG and ABA all use 36mm gears...But the PG pump is EXPENSIVE and ABA is fairly cheap...But I read the same pressure and temps with the ABA as I did with a good PG (in my 8v). So Im runnin the ABA...9A has no provision to run the dizzy if I remember correctly...Its just centered on the plug in the block (its been some time but I think it was like that...Mebe Ill go dig that out again Hahaa) The 16IM shaft is pretty damn near the same as an 8v short of the pullye mounting. I played with both...And the 8v one allowed the better spacing for the correct SIZED sprocket. THIS it what makes the two spin at different rates. There is a woodruff key pressed into the 8v IM shaft...Pop it out (small flat head screw driver) and extend the groove to the outter edge of the IM shaft and the allow you to fit the 20V CAM sprocket (Cam and IM shaft need to be the same size...16v is the same but the spacing is goofy) And use a 16v cam spocket again for the cam itself.


    18. 11-09-2004 02:54 PM #18
      ok , i am a quick study , and learing a lot right now , so this is what i need for parts ( besides the little things )
      20v intermed. gear
      20v adj cam gear
      16v crank gear
      machine the im shaft

      what head bolts do i use?

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    19. 11-09-2004 02:56 PM #19
      oh , and pull my pistons out to cut the relief in it for the 3rd valve.
      then my insides should be done . and plug the 3 holes in the head

      then it is mounted on.

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    20. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      11-09-2004 03:10 PM #20
      Thanks Twinscrew20V

      Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 »

      1.20v cam gear - machine the im shaft to fit this gear
      2.20v adj cam gear
      3.16v crank gear

      what head bolts do i use?


      Your placing a 20V Cam Gear on the IM Shaft, makes everything simple.You can use either another 20V Cam Gear for the Camshaft or go all out and buy an adjustable unit.More than likely if you buy a 20V head from someone there going to sell you it with a Cam Gear.You use this cam gear for the IM Shaft and just buy an adjustable unit to replace the one you use on the IM shaft.

      For Head Bolt,use the same ARP units that you have in your block.


    21. 11-09-2004 03:17 PM #21
      this post is great ,

      so i could use my arp head bolts s, they are for a 8v head. that is the bolt i set i got.

      wow, i may just do this to my gti. if it doenst sell by end of dec. then it is going under the knife. either this way or just a 16v turbo.

      thanks guys , i will continue to watch this post

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    22. 11-09-2004 03:30 PM #22
      i thought that the 20v and 16v heads are higher up , so they need longer bolts, i have the 8v set , i just thought that they are shorter , am i wrong?
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      11-09-2004 03:30 PM #23
      Or use AEB 1.8T head bolts from a 98 Passat...Some audis and I think the 99 also use the AEB but 98 is a deffinate.

    24. Member G'D60's Avatar
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      11-09-2004 03:41 PM #24
      GREAT THREAD!

      my inbox is gettin real full. TwinScrew how reliable has ur setup been? is the car a daily driver? if i do this swap, i want it to WORK. any info would be great

      PS MODS MAKE THIS A STICKY!!!!!!!!!


    25. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      11-09-2004 05:54 PM #25
      Quote, originally posted by TwinScrew20v »
      Or use AEB 1.8T head bolts from a 98 Passat.

      But if he is using a 9A block wouldnt he want to get ARP hardware for a 9A Block?I read that there is a difference between the ABA and say 9A head bolts.
      I know PG and 3A/9A have trhe same head bolts.
      hmmm

      Quote, originally posted by G’D60 »

      PS MODS MAKE THIS A STICKY!!!!!!!!!

      There Working on it...


    26. 11-09-2004 05:59 PM #26
      you guys are missing something, i have arp bolts for a 8v not a 9a block , i bought them becasue i have a 8v head on the block. the 20v and 16v heads are taller so that iswhy i thought i would need new bolts, i will ask it this way:

      are the arp head bolts the same for a 16v and a 8v. iknow they cost more for 16v . but if they are the same thing then i maybe able to use the ones i have right now.

      my 8v head isnt off the block to see if my 16v head will fit withthe bolts.

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    27. 11-09-2004 06:15 PM #27
      are the 16v good to use with the 20v head, ( the 8v ones i have work with the 9a block just fine. but are shorter. why does this sound hard, i will just buy 20v arp ones , easyly done. thanks for all the great advise. keep this post on the top then it will be a sticky
      Up and Live >>> www.Herbys53.com <<< sick of the BS , check it out :thumb:
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    28. Member
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      11-09-2004 06:31 PM #28
      Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 »
      are the 16v good to use with the 20v head, ( the 8v ones i have work with the 9a block just fine. but are shorter. why does this sound hard, i will just buy 20v arp ones , easyly done. thanks for all the great advise. keep this post on the top then it will be a sticky
      If you're going to buy new ones...Get eht AEB ones then theres no question. Same pitch and size hole bu correct length. Other 1.8Ts use a smaller bolt.

      Mine is a daily driver and so far has been reliable even in its many abused states AC and everything is still there...But Ive been busy prettifying it to actually get the AC hooked up (needs a custom AC line made) Made it to SoCal and back with ZERO issues for Dubfest and has a touch over 12000 miles on it so far. My only currebnt issue is Im still running my old bracket mounted timibng belt tensioner and never did get it set right after the belt stretched...Im actually working on swapping the Prelude belt in as we speak (hopefully Ill get off my butt and actually finish it today ) then we'll have a diffinitive answer for the Timing belt issue.


    29. Member CABNFEVR's Avatar
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      11-09-2004 06:50 PM #29
      Could someone post some pics of AEB 1.8t's out of car. Possibly top front like previous pictures and side view showing factory belt set up.

    30. Member CABNFEVR's Avatar
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      11-10-2004 05:07 PM #30
      Perfect, thanks Any chance a non cut away version is out there?


      Modified by Reaper at 2:08 PM 11-10-2004

    31. Member CABNFEVR's Avatar
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      97 TDI T4 Doka
      11-10-2004 06:33 PM #31
      need to see complete belt set up

    32. Member CABNFEVR's Avatar
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      97 TDI T4 Doka
      11-10-2004 09:16 PM #32
      Great
      You stated in the other thread that you could use the g60 brackets on the AEB. Just wondering if I dont need AC or PS if the charger and alt could be mounted in the front of the engine not having to mount the alt in the back. Any idea?

    33. Member
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      11-10-2004 09:31 PM #33
      You can...But it wont be a G60 alt. You'll have to do some experimenting to find one that you can mount below the charger. Look thru the 16vG60 Yahoo web group. Some of the fuys there have had some success with it.

    34. Member
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      11-11-2004 12:24 AM #34
      You can run it but its kinda tuff.

    35. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      11-11-2004 07:19 AM #35
      Quote, originally posted by TwinScrew20v »
      You can run it but its kinda tuff.

      Oh well an MR2 electical unit will have to work


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