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    Thread: 20V Hybrid - How To

    1. 11-09-2004 05:59 PM #26
      you guys are missing something, i have arp bolts for a 8v not a 9a block , i bought them becasue i have a 8v head on the block. the 20v and 16v heads are taller so that iswhy i thought i would need new bolts, i will ask it this way:
      are the arp head bolts the same for a 16v and a 8v. iknow they cost more for 16v . but if they are the same thing then i maybe able to use the ones i have right now.
      my 8v head isnt off the block to see if my 16v head will fit withthe bolts.
      www.KONI.com

      Supporting Koni Since I could drive.

    2. 11-09-2004 06:15 PM #27
      are the 16v good to use with the 20v head, ( the 8v ones i have work with the 9a block just fine. but are shorter. why does this sound hard, i will just buy 20v arp ones , easyly done. thanks for all the great advise. keep this post on the top then it will be a sticky
      www.KONI.com

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      11-09-2004 06:31 PM #28
      Quote, originally posted by herby53-akaherby53 »
      are the 16v good to use with the 20v head, ( the 8v ones i have work with the 9a block just fine. but are shorter. why does this sound hard, i will just buy 20v arp ones , easyly done. thanks for all the great advise. keep this post on the top then it will be a sticky
      If you're going to buy new ones...Get eht AEB ones then theres no question. Same pitch and size hole bu correct length. Other 1.8Ts use a smaller bolt.
      Mine is a daily driver and so far has been reliable even in its many abused states AC and everything is still there...But Ive been busy prettifying it to actually get the AC hooked up (needs a custom AC line made) Made it to SoCal and back with ZERO issues for Dubfest and has a touch over 12000 miles on it so far. My only currebnt issue is Im still running my old bracket mounted timibng belt tensioner and never did get it set right after the belt stretched...Im actually working on swapping the Prelude belt in as we speak (hopefully Ill get off my butt and actually finish it today ) then we'll have a diffinitive answer for the Timing belt issue.

    4. Member CABNFEVR's Avatar
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      11-09-2004 06:50 PM #29
      Could someone post some pics of AEB 1.8t's out of car. Possibly top front like previous pictures and side view showing factory belt set up.

    5. Member CABNFEVR's Avatar
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      11-10-2004 05:07 PM #30
      Perfect, thanks Any chance a non cut away version is out there?


      Modified by Reaper at 2:08 PM 11-10-2004

    6. Member CABNFEVR's Avatar
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      11-10-2004 06:33 PM #31
      need to see complete belt set up

    7. Member CABNFEVR's Avatar
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      11-10-2004 09:16 PM #32
      Great [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      You stated in the other thread that you could use the g60 brackets on the AEB. Just wondering if I dont need AC or PS if the charger and alt could be mounted in the front of the engine not having to mount the alt in the back. Any idea?

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      11-10-2004 09:31 PM #33
      You can...But it wont be a G60 alt. You'll have to do some experimenting to find one that you can mount below the charger. Look thru the 16vG60 Yahoo web group. Some of the fuys there have had some success with it.

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      11-11-2004 12:24 AM #34
      You can run it but its kinda tuff.

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      11-11-2004 07:19 AM #35
      Quote, originally posted by TwinScrew20v »
      You can run it but its kinda tuff.

      Oh well an MR2 electical unit will have to work

    11. 11-11-2004 11:40 PM #36
      I was planning on using the 16v intermediate shaft with the 16v cam gear on it so I don't have to cut anything and I don't need an extra 20v cam gear. You know the routine PL shaft goes into the 1.8 blocks, 9A goes into a 2.0.

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      11-12-2004 12:01 AM #37
      Quote, originally posted by all-starr-me »
      I was planning on using the 16v intermediate shaft with the 16v cam gear on it so I don't have to cut anything and I don't need an extra 20v cam gear. You know the routine PL shaft goes into the 1.8 blocks, 9A goes into a 2.0.

      Your spacing will be wrong for this with either the 16v or 20v sprocket and the 16v cam sprocket will rub on some of the bracketry. If you shim it to space out correctly you will have maybe 2mm of keyway in the IM shaft and that MAY hold up for a little while but with how soft this metal is it wont last too long.
      You only need one 20v cam gear (for the IM shaft) and a 16v cam sprocket (for the cam)


      Modified by TwinScrew20v at 6:35 AM 11-12-2004

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      11-12-2004 09:30 AM #38
      Quote, originally posted by TwinScrew20v »
      Your spacing will be wrong for this with either the 16v or 20v sprocket and the 16v cam sprocket will rub on some of the bracketry. If you **** it to space out correctly you will have maybe 2mm of keyway in the IM shaft and that MAY hold up for a little while but with how soft this metal is it wont last too long.
      You only need one 20v cam gear (for the IM shaft) and a 16v cam sprocket (for the cam)


      explain?
      Pic for fun:

      I have been getting alot of PM's pertaining to if this can work on an ABA so i did some research.Same rules follow.
      This was Taken from Race101 Project 20/20,Placing the 20V Head on an ABA Block.Same concept applies for ABA/PG/PM/PL/Old style dizzy hole in the block.
      Pics available here:

      They Modified the Oil return "a" and Blocked 3 of the pipe plugs "b"


      ABA Bottom Half with JE 83mm Pistons and Morosso Oil Pan

      If anyone has anymore pics please post and contribute to the thread! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]



      Modified by Wizard-of-OD at 11:13 AM 3-28-2006

    14. 11-12-2004 04:23 PM #39
      sorry i'm gonna sound dumb here, but the thermal effects on a head with those plugs are?

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      11-12-2004 04:29 PM #40
      Quote, originally posted by mrkrad »
      sorry i'm gonna sound dumb here, but the thermal effects on a head with those plugs are?

      none as far as I know,TwinScrew has been running his for some time now and I have not heard any complaints.
      Both the 8V and 16V Head had 2 returns,I am sure the oil will find its way down and once you have an Oil cooler all should be good to go.
      [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    16. 11-12-2004 04:38 PM #41
      so no chances of hot spots?

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      11-12-2004 04:39 PM #42
      Quote, originally posted by mrkrad »
      sorry i'm gonna sound dumb here, but the thermal effects on a head with those plugs are?
      Negligible with a pipe thread. The aluminum of the head expands at a greater rate than the steel the plugs are made of and shrinks 'in' on the plug. And when it contracts...Being a tapered pipe plug...One point in the plug will be tight (if installed correctly) Thats actually part of the reason for the taper of a pipe plug [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    18. 11-13-2004 02:01 AM #43
      ok so i have an AEG 2.0 is it the same as the ABA and could i use my stock coil
      does the compression really matter if your gonna turbo it i mean it'll be betetr to keep the compression lower if you got a turbo in there

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      11-13-2004 02:33 AM #44
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »


      ABA Bottom Half with JE 83mm Pistons and Morosso Oil Pan


      Found project on the site
      http://www.race101.com/project_2020.html
      I thought there was a way to put a 20V head on a ABA, a saw a Corrodo with huge track numbers with one in a video and wondered how they made it happen, would be awsome to see how it would run with a stock DigiII system just for ****s and gigles (I would get a new standalone later)



      Modified by temporalwar at 1:46 AM 11-13-2004
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    20. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      11-13-2004 02:33 AM #45
      Quote, originally posted by GTi Leo »
      ok so i have an AEG 2.0 is it the same as the ABA and could i use my stock coil

      The AEG follows the new design with an Internal water pump meaning it also has 5 oil returns whereas the AEB is a tall deck block and follows the old style external waterpump route.Conclusion...they are different.Are you trying to fit a 20V Head on the AEG Block of ABA Block?
      Quote, originally posted by GTi Leo »
      does the compression really matter if your gonna turbo it i mean it'll be betetr to keep the compression lower if you got a turbo in there

      Compression matters for what goal is.TS runs a 9.5/9.3:1 CR and says he is going to go higher.For a 20V G60 or 20V Turbo the ideal CR would be around the high 9's (or a 10:1 )
      Quote, originally posted by temporalwar »
      I thought there was a way to put a 20V head on a ABA, a saw a Corrodo with huge track numbers with one in a video and wondered how they made it happen, would be awsome to see how it would run with a stock DigiII system just for ****s and gigles (I would get a new standalone later)

      The ABA Block is the same as the PG block just different bore and taller deck.This thread applies to all VW Blocks...even AEG.If you use an ABA block then I would advise the ABA IM shaft and Distributor just for simplicity.
      Digi II is a pissy system....i cant even imagine what MAF you would use


      Modified by Wizard-of-OD at 2:36 AM 11-13-2004

    21. 11-13-2004 03:29 AM #46
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »
      The AEG follows the new design with an Internal water pump meaning it also has 5 oil returns whereas the AEB is a tall deck block and follows the old style external waterpump route.Conclusion...they are different.Are you trying to fit a 20V Head on the AEG Block of ABA Block?
      Modified by Wizard-of-OD at 2:36 AM 11-13-2004

      yeah my 2.0 has a AEG block and i'm thinking of putting the whole top half of a 1.8T on so the manifolds and the turbo. i was also told that i would have to change the bottom end of my engine if i went past 220whp, but i donno if the guy knows i have an AEG or if they are the same bottom. if you know if i would need to change it can you tell me please cuz i don't really wanna spend the money and if i can i wanna put a k04 turbo if i do the 1.8T top swap

    22. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      11-13-2004 03:40 AM #47
      Quote, originally posted by GTi Leo »
      yeah my 2.0 has a AEG block and i'm thinking of putting the whole top half of a 1.8T on so the manifolds and the turbo. i was also told that i would have to change the bottom end of my engine if i went past 220whp, but i donno if the guy knows i have an AEG or if they are the same bottom. if you know if i would need to change it can you tell me please cuz i don't really wanna spend the money and if i can i wanna put a k04 turbo if i do the 1.8T top swap

      Its addictive...you will have to spend money .I am not sure why the block would fall apart @ 220whp seeing that guys are putting down more power with there stock 8V's.
      For the Record i am sure you can fart harder than a K04 Turbo

    23. 11-13-2004 02:31 PM #48
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »
      Its addictive...you will have to spend money .I am not sure why the block would fall apart @ 220whp seeing that guys are putting down more power with there stock 8V's.
      For the Record i am sure you can fart harder than a K04 Turbo

      but then that means i can fart harder then a ko3 which is whats un the 1.8T anyways but a stock 1.8T with a ko4 outs 220 whp and 289 wheel torque so if i was to put it in a 2.0 with the 20v head i'll prob be at about 240 whp and he never said the block would break up the pistons will start to break and rods and crank
      which is why i asked if the AEG bottom end is stronger then ABA

    24. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      11-13-2004 02:53 PM #49
      Quote, originally posted by GTi Leo »
      but then that means i can fart harder then a ko3 which is whats un the 1.8T anyways but a stock 1.8T with a ko4 outs 220 whp and 289 wheel torque so if i was to put it in a 2.0 with the 20v head i'll prob be at about 240 whp and he never said the block would break up the pistons will start to break and rods and crank
      which is why i asked if the AEG bottom end is stronger then ABA

      Thats why buying part by part is better than buying a complete 1.8T engine with half the stuff being useless(stock manifold,stock turbo,etc).
      I know the ABA(OBD1) block itself to be a very good block.Has oil squirters,strong rods and rumoured to have a forged crank.
      As for the AEG 20V combo,he could always get a fuzzed AEB engine and use his crank and rods in there with JE pistons

    25. 11-13-2004 07:47 PM #50
      Quote, originally posted by Wizard-of-OD »
      Thats why buying part by part is better than buying a complete 1.8T engine with half the stuff being useless(stock manifold,stock turbo,etc).
      I know the ABA(OBD1) block itself to be a very good block.Has oil squirters,strong rods and rumoured to have a forged crank.
      As for the AEG 20V combo,he could always get a fuzzed AEB engine and use his crank and rods in there with JE pistons

      well i wan't planning on buying a whole 1.8T engine just plan on buying the head and eventually getting a ko4 turbo kit with the software and stuff but frome what i heard the 1.8t crank would make my engine less then 1.9 liters [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthdown.gif[/IMG] and if its said to have a forged crank thats sick lol but yeah i have my heart set on this mod and i won't do it till i have the ko4 turbo and all the required parts cuz i wanna get itdone chop chop cuz i don't have another car to drive so i'd prob buy all the stuff then and keep it in my garage till i'm ready to do the work prob next summer then i'll have a beast of a 2.0
      also to add another thing to what i said before about the 220whp then i gotta change the bottom end i also heard 300 the stock internals can handle so who knows thats why i asked looks liek another post in the 2.0 engine forums

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