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    Thread: 20V Hybrid - How To

    1. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      12-19-2011 01:32 PM #1751
      If anyone is interested I have a few of the 90* distributor caps.

      Guys,
      It took a long time for me to complile this information in a clear and concise form for all to read. Sending me a PM asking me to explain to you what is allready very clear will only get you referred back to this thread. If you can not understand what is going on in the 1st post of this thread then maybe the task at hand is too much for you currently and you should seek help before continuing. If a portion of this thread is unclear , tell me where it is unclear and I will do my best to expand on it.

    2. Junior Member mk 2.5 fatman's Avatar
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      12-20-2011 09:42 AM #1752
      Will this swap work with digi II? How critical is it to not have a obd I Aba block? How much for a 90 degree cap?

    3. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      12-20-2011 10:09 PM #1753
      Quote Originally Posted by mk 2.5 fatman View Post
      Will this swap work with digi II? How critical is it to not have a obd I Aba block? How much for a 90 degree cap?
      1. Yes but I wont recommend it considering what Digi-II came standard with. Highly recommend a cheap standalone at that point.
      2. ABA block is the most desired VW827 block available. You can use whichever you wish though
      3. $25

    4. Junior Member mk 2.5 fatman's Avatar
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      12-21-2011 01:29 PM #1754
      Quote Originally Posted by Issam Abed View Post
      1. Yes but I wont recommend it considering what Digi-II came standard with. Highly recommend a cheap standalone at that point.
      Which standalone would you recommend? It's going in a mk2

    5. Member Prof315's Avatar
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      12-21-2011 01:42 PM #1755
      Quote Originally Posted by mk 2.5 fatman View Post
      Which standalone would you recommend? It's going in a mk2
      megasquirt
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    6. Member 4cedboost's Avatar
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      12-21-2011 05:04 PM #1756
      does anyone make a custom piston for a 144mm rod for on an 8v setup? turbocharging my PG block and using an AEG head from a mkIV 2.0

    7. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      12-21-2011 11:35 PM #1757
      Quote Originally Posted by 4cedboost View Post
      does anyone make a custom piston for a 144mm rod for on an 8v setup? turbocharging my PG block and using an AEG head from a mkIV 2.0
      What crankshaft? 86.4mm or 92.8mm?
      we make custom pistons for all different applications.

    8. Junior Member Roman5400's Avatar
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      01-22-2012 05:09 PM #1758
      What if I have an AZG block? Does all the AEG stuff apply still?

    9. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      01-22-2012 07:32 PM #1759
      Quote Originally Posted by Roman5400 View Post
      What if I have an AZG block? Does all the AEG stuff apply still?
      Yes

    10. Member fox-16v's Avatar
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      06-22-2012 10:35 PM #1760
      Alright ppl I am bringing this back from the dead. I want to build a 20v/lysholm. There is no real rush on building this HOWEVER with so many ways of doing this listed in this thread can someone please make a down and dirty parts list for me to acquire everything. I will use/already have a PG/PL/ and can get a ABA block. I would use the AEB cylinder head. Also, pictures are dead for drilling the new oil passage required for the new cylinder head as well as the guide to deal with the cam chain tensioner inside the AEB head.

      I will also do this using the stock digi 1 management coupled with a sns chip. So just a basic list for me to get the motor straight would be very helpful. I can figure out manifolds/accessories etc.
      In my Corrado, I live my life a quarter mile at a time.. for those 18 seconds or less, I'm free

      Quote Originally Posted by 206929rr View Post
      nice find. sell me your foha. im not asking. "this isnt the foha you were looking for" (waves hand jedi like)...

    11. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      06-23-2012 12:19 AM #1761
      Quote Originally Posted by fox-16v View Post
      I will also do this using the stock digi 1 management coupled with a sns chip.
      Forget this completely. The G60 engine comes in chassis's over 20 years old...get standalone

    12. Member fox-16v's Avatar
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      06-23-2012 01:09 AM #1762
      Well like I said I'm in no rush. I just have a large abundance of random vw parts from all walks of life and would like to build something unique.
      In my Corrado, I live my life a quarter mile at a time.. for those 18 seconds or less, I'm free

      Quote Originally Posted by 206929rr View Post
      nice find. sell me your foha. im not asking. "this isnt the foha you were looking for" (waves hand jedi like)...

    13. 07-12-2012 08:18 AM #1763
      Hi good day all

      just a quick one

      why cant the normal 8v pulleys work on the 20v setup?

      As far as i know the cam and dist also turns 2-1

    14. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      07-12-2012 12:34 PM #1764
      Quote Originally Posted by dielynton View Post
      Hi good day all

      just a quick one

      why cant the normal 8v pulleys work on the 20v setup?

      As far as i know the cam and dist also turns 2-1
      Finding 8V timing belts for custom lengths are a bit hard because the pitch is extremely specific. Also the 20V gears/pulleys are 25mm wide.

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      08-03-2012 04:07 PM #1765
      building a DD and have been planning it for months now, was planning on swapping blocks and upgrading rods and pistons.

      came on here to see if anyone has used a TDI crank in an AEG hoping to see how easy it would be to make a 2.1 or 2.2L.

      then i hear about this oil squirter issue, i thought the AEG had oil squirters. i just read that pete from IE doesnt reccomend the swap because the lack of the squirters.
      what are people doing about this ? anything ? what happens if i use the aeg block with out them.

      GT3076 around 28 PSI. (High RPM - 9k)
      or would i use a AVH, AZG, BGD block, they had oil squirters right ?
      i need it to be somewhat realiable

    16. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      08-03-2012 11:59 PM #1766
      Quote Originally Posted by 1999.5GTIVR6 View Post
      building a DD and have been planning it for months now, was planning on swapping blocks and upgrading rods and pistons.

      came on here to see if anyone has used a TDI crank in an AEG hoping to see how easy it would be to make a 2.1 or 2.2L.

      then i hear about this oil squirter issue, i thought the AEG had oil squirters. i just read that pete from IE doesnt reccomend the swap because the lack of the squirters.
      what are people doing about this ? anything ? what happens if i use the aeg block with out them.

      GT3076 around 28 PSI. (High RPM - 9k)
      or would i use a AVH, AZG, BGD block, they had oil squirters right ?
      i need it to be somewhat realiable
      Do you have a 1.8T block?

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      08-04-2012 03:05 AM #1767
      Quote Originally Posted by Issam Abed View Post
      Do you have a 1.8T block?
      yeah, its going into a 2002 awp car

    18. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      08-04-2012 12:01 PM #1768
      Quote Originally Posted by 1999.5GTIVR6 View Post
      yeah, its going into a 2002 awp car
      Then use that block with the AEG crankshaft

    19. Member
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      08-07-2012 09:59 AM #1769
      Quote Originally Posted by Issam Abed View Post
      Then use that block with the AEG crankshaft
      my 1.8 block has a mount sheererd off the back, aswell i would rather not bore out the 1.8 to much (im also DDing it)

    20. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      08-07-2012 01:06 PM #1770
      Quote Originally Posted by 1999.5GTIVR6 View Post
      my 1.8 block has a mount sheererd off the back, aswell i would rather not bore out the 1.8 to much (im also DDing it)
      There is no difference between a 1.8T and 2.0 block...
      one has an M14 tap @ the rear and is 81mm bore and the other has no M14 tap and is 82.5mm bore.
      You can safely take either block to 83mm's.
      That being said , I have a whole bunch of 82.5mm bore blocks that are brand new. Send over a PM for further details.

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      08-13-2012 04:01 PM #1771
      Do you sell a parts kit for this (minus management)? I already have an AEB head and can easily get an obd1 bottom end.

    22. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      08-14-2012 02:08 AM #1772
      Quote Originally Posted by harlequin80 View Post
      Do you sell a parts kit for this (minus management)? I already have an AEB head and can easily get an obd1 bottom end.
      since the creation of this thread I have sort of "modified" the advice I give people. Are you running digifant 1 or going straight to standalone?

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      08-14-2012 09:19 AM #1773
      The motor is goin into my harlequin so I'm guessing standalone?

    24. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      08-15-2012 01:33 AM #1774
      Quote Originally Posted by harlequin80 View Post
      The motor is goin into my harlequin so I'm guessing standalone?
      Then stay away from the ABA blocks. No real benefit to having them with 06A motors becoming so readily available.

    25. Member Prof315's Avatar
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      08-15-2012 06:47 AM #1775
      Quote Originally Posted by Issam Abed View Post
      Then stay away from the ABA blocks. No real benefit to having them with 06A motors becoming so readily available.
      Gotta disagree with you there. While it is more work to build a 20/20 with an ABA the long rod/ tall deck bottom end has it's advantages. The biggest advantage is torque. Tons and tons of torque.
      The Professor
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      08-15-2012 12:00 PM #1776
      I have a complete AEB motor. Someone said that I could run the motronic system on the 20v hybrid. What are the benefits/downsides to that? I know it is possible to wire the AEB motor into the factory mk3 system so I'm guessing there isn't much difference if it's NA vs FI

    27. Member Prof315's Avatar
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      08-15-2012 01:23 PM #1777
      Quote Originally Posted by harlequin80 View Post
      I have a complete AEB motor. Someone said that I could run the motronic system on the 20v hybrid. What are the benefits/downsides to that? I know it is possible to wire the AEB motor into the factory mk3 system so I'm guessing there isn't much difference if it's NA vs FI
      Just about anything can be done with enough time, patience, and cash. The question is, is it worth it? In my opinion NO. Standalone is very much the way to go. It can be done quite inexpensively and if you decide to make change to the motor once it's in (big turbo, cams, injectors, etc....) you don't have to get the ECU reflashed.
      The Professor
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    28. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      08-15-2012 09:56 PM #1778
      Quote Originally Posted by Prof315 View Post
      Gotta disagree with you there. While it is more work to build a 20/20 with an ABA the long rod/ tall deck bottom end has it's advantages. The biggest advantage is torque. Tons and tons of torque.
      ...and the amount of work needed to do an ABA block he might as well do an ALH block and be done with it.
      Unless you are running digifant-I or another block mounted distributor system , there is no need to use any of the old 827 blocks.
      06A is the future , has been for sometime now.

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      08-15-2012 11:18 PM #1779
      So what is the ideal setup to use to throw it in a mk3 chassis? I have an 058 block that I was going to use when I wanted a BT 1.8T.

      Also where can I find ITB's ?

    30. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      08-17-2012 10:07 PM #1780
      Quote Originally Posted by harlequin80 View Post
      So what is the ideal setup to use to throw it in a mk3 chassis? I have an 058 block that I was going to use when I wanted a BT 1.8T.

      Also where can I find ITB's ?
      MKIII + 058 = correct combination. No modifications needed to the AEB motor to make it fit in the MKIII chassis.
      There was a guy on here selling a set of ITB's recently. Search and it should be the first hit.

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      08-18-2012 11:40 AM #1781
      I know you can use the AEB block as it uses the same mounts and stuff as the ABA block. So basically what you are saying is to just build the motor I have to be N/A instead of turbo.

      I just sold off the rods I had for it

      I think Im going with the obd1 aba block anyways. Id still have to find a crank for the AEB motor and I can get a complete obd1 for less than a crank
      Last edited by harlequin80; 08-18-2012 at 11:42 AM.

    32. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      08-18-2012 12:26 PM #1782
      Quote Originally Posted by harlequin80 View Post
      I know you can use the AEB block as it uses the same mounts and stuff as the ABA block. So basically what you are saying is to just build the motor I have to be N/A instead of turbo.

      I just sold off the rods I had for it

      I think Im going with the obd1 aba block anyways. Id still have to find a crank for the AEB motor and I can get a complete obd1 for less than a crank
      Why would it matter if you sold the rods? N/A motors do not need forged rods , just ARP hardware on them. Get an OBD-I ABA crankshaft and throw it in the AEB block.

      2.0 20V AEB

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      08-18-2012 02:13 PM #1783
      Because now I need rods again.
      What rods/pistons would I use with an ABA crankshaft? Are they direct fit into the AEB block no mods needed?

    34. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      08-19-2012 05:27 AM #1784
      Quote Originally Posted by harlequin80 View Post
      Because now I need rods again.
      What rods/pistons would I use with an ABA crankshaft? Are they direct fit into the AEB block no mods needed?
      You will need to grind the inside of the crankcase of the block to clearance the full swing of the connecting rod (actually the connecting rod bolts) but yes it can be a direct fit into an AEB block.

      ABA Crankshaft + 144/20mm connecting rods + Mahle 92.8mm stroke pistons + AEB block = 2008cc AEB motor.

      I would only attempt this if you absolutely want to stay with the 827 motors.

    35. Member wolfens_golf's Avatar
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      09-02-2012 03:12 AM #1785
      FIRST OFF....BUMP TO A GREAT THREAD. second id just like to say thanks for all the great advice. unfortunatly im noobish to the engine game so i do have some questions. yes i have read the majority of this thread but it can get alittle confusing.......on with the questions and my plans with the engine set up

      91 corrado g60 planning to 20valve head swap...keeping dizzy & gladder

      g60 block (PG)
      AEB cly head
      PG crank shaft(FORGED=BETTER)
      AEB cyl head studs
      AEB pistons & connecting rods
      ABA OBD1 head gasket
      AEB 20V camshat gear
      PL intermediate shaft
      AEB 20v gear(intermediate shaft)
      16v wires
      16v crankshaft pully
      16v timing belt tensioner

      honda preude timing belt 2.2 vtec 92-98

      is this list correct? would i need a 16v dizzy?




      also if i used a audi tt manifold what throttle cable do i need?
      raising the compression....can i plane the head..if so how much?
      i would require a chip for the digi 1?
      the gladder is getting rebuilt....would one run a stock pully to "break in" then move to the 68 mm?



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